We finished the last part on one of the many stairs connecting through the gloomy (what did you want in early spring on a steep slope?) private sector, the two main streets of the center - Lenin Avenue and Kalinin Street. There, however, there was a staircase leading down from the Peter and Paul Monastery, but we went down from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Below you can clearly see the Bryansk Arsenal in the Desna floodplain, and such scenes reek of the Gornozavodsk Urals - an ancient, more than once specialized plant near the river, which is essentially the center of the Old Town. As already mentioned in the first part, Bryansk was distinguished by a unique location - a Russian city at the junction of routes to the west, therefore, in case of war, it was assigned the role of a deep auxiliary rear: even under Peter I, the production of edged weapons was established here, in 1736-37 there was a shipyard, floated a fleet to the Dnieper for the next Russian-Turkish war, and even dry rations for garrisons were baked near the main station since the end of the 19th century (see the first part). But the culmination of it all was the Arsenal founded in 1785, which became an important supplier of light artillery for Russia for a century and a half, quickly dispersing from here to fortresses and borders. When the enemy came to Bryansk for the first time since the Great Troubles - this was in 1941-43 - the Arsenal was evacuated to Katav-Ivanovsk and somehow disappeared there among the defense industries of the Urals. Its old site was restored as the Dormash plant, now one of the main manufacturers of road construction equipment in Russia - and this product, as you understand, is in great demand here. In 1993, “Dormash” was returned to its old, but no longer relevant, name “Bryansk Arsenal”, and in general, its fate is very reminiscent of another giant of the ancient industry -.

By the way, the reservoir in the last frame is not Desna, but Starukha, as they call the small oxbow lake that borders Old city in the north. We didn’t really walk there, which, however, he did well for us darriuss , to which I once again refer. But even he (not to mention me) did not reach Novaya Sloboda on the slopes behind Starukha - and there, by the way, there are Upper and Lower Lubyanka streets and a very beautiful Tikhvin Church (1775) on one of them. The stairs led us to the former trade school of the timber merchant and main Bryansk philanthropist Pavel Mogilevtsev (1908-09), now occupied by a drug dispensary. The bright red and white building opens up the Old Town on the way from the station:

But it was not very pleasant to walk further - the narrow and long Kalinin Street is not inferior to Lenin Avenue in traffic, but at the same time it is sandwiched between the mountainside and the Arsenal fence with ingrained car fumes. We had to walk for about 15 minutes in this noise and fumes, but someone has to live here...

At the top is the Gorne-Nikolskaya Church, to which we will go up:

We passed the current Arsenal entrance, extremely dull in appearance, but sparkling with a brand new renovation, and after another 5-10 minutes we came to its old site, which was given over for development several years ago. They are demolishing (one would like to hope that at least “while preserving the facade”) the once very picturesque carpentry, arch and assembly shop of the early twentieth century:

But the main ensemble of the plant further down the street is untouchable - this is the Foundry Yard, which has been preserved since the founding of the plant, that is, since the 1780s. Along the street is the former Foundry House, then the factory management office under a sharp roof (at Dormash there was a factory recreation center) and a long building of public services. All this, of course, has long since changed its functions and has a clear touch of Stalinism, obtained during restoration after the war - but looking at such buildings, you understand that Stalinist classicism is not so different from Catherine’s.

Initially, the Foundry was a square of buildings, two of which, to the side of the “red line”, including the ruins from the photo before last, were completely replaced in the 19th century:

Basically, the old site has been cleared and is waiting for a developer. In principle, this is a normal practice in the world (especially since the new site continues to work properly), and when I see the ruins of the assembly workshop, I immediately remember the “Luther Quarter”, where almost the same workshop was turned into a multi-storey parking lot. However, the project has clearly been delayed, and so far there is no development, no plant - just ugly wasteland with a lonely water tower. There is a very good page about Arsenal with descriptions of individual workshops.

From here we decided to go upstairs - but not yet to the avenue, but to Petrovskaya Mountain hanging over the Arsenal:

The top of which is now occupied by the possessions of the Bryansk diocese (“priests and merchants” - this is how the population of Bryansk in Bezhitsa was characterized a hundred years ago). The Bishop's House (1870) is perhaps the most beautiful example of Bryansk pre-revolutionary architecture:

Nowadays there is a whole monastery here, at the heart of which is the Gorno-Nikolskaya Church (1751), both in age and location (hanging over the plant) reminiscent of the temples of the Old Urals. But the Ural churches do not have an ancient Russian past, and this church, known in the tree since the 14th century, “became famous” for the fact that in 1340, following a popular gathering on its porch, the local prince Gleb Svyatoslavovich was killed by an angry crowd (what was he so guilty of - history is silent). Previously, there was also the Nizhne-Nikolskaya Church, which was demolished, if I’m not mistaken, during the Soviet expansion of the plant.

From here, through the old barracks of the Kashirsky regiment, now occupied by the administration of the diocese, it is a stone's throw to the Intercession Mountain and, accordingly, standing on the next descent, the Intercession Cathedral (1698) - the oldest building in Bryansk. In 1500-1798 it was a cathedral, then it was reduced to a regimental church, but in general it is now just a parish church:

And opposite the cathedral (in the background are the same ex-barracks and the street along which we came) a very interesting house, clearly from the 18th century. For some reason, it is popularly known as the “governor’s house,” but what kind of governor is there in a county town? This is the house of the general director (that is, not the general director, but the general, as I understand it) of the Bryansk Arsenal, built together with the plant. However, it is possible that the Oryol governors also visited here during visits to their main district city.

The guns seem to be replicas of the first Arsenal products:

They are aiming at an unexpectedly neglected square (despite the fact that there are several very decent parks in Bryansk!), at the other end of which rises the stele of Combat and Labor Valor (1985), which Bryansk residents call it only “five minutes to two” for the characteristic position of the hands of the maiden crowning him. The hero on horseback is none other than Alexander Peresvet, a monk warrior who fought a duel with the Tatar Chelubey on the Kulikovo field and died after defeating the enemy. In Bryansk they consider this semi-legendary hero one of their own, although God forbid they began to “settle” him here in the 19th century. Next to the hero is the storyteller Bayan from “The Tale of Igor’s Campaign,” he comes from the Principality of Chernigov, where Bryansk was part of those days.

We go down the mountain and continue along Kalinin Street, among the houses of the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. The long building in the background is the same public services of the Arsenal. In the foreground, apparently, there are also Arsenal buildings of the 18th century (not counting the silicate fire, obviously from completely different times), the house on the right under the Soviets changed roles from the “Metalist” club (meaning a worker in the metalworking industry, not a hairy one) to a factory medical unit.

Kalinina Street leads to the spacious, but architecturally very loose Slavyanskaya Square - however, no one in the city calls it that, Bryansk residents know it as the Embankment, and the actual bank of the Desna with a pontoon bridge to former station I showed Bryansk-City in the first part:

Before the revolution, the square was completely Cathedral, since the Novopokrovsky Cathedral (1862-97) stood on it, built in turn on the site of the Spaso-Polikarpov Monastery, whose temple had been a cathedral since 1798. The cathedral burned down during the war, the ruins were torn down in 1968.

Now on the site of the cathedral there is a chapel, for some reason in the “Carpathian” style (not counting the ploughshare onions, of course):

There is also a Philharmonic Society (1985):

Spider fountain "Friendship":

And the local “Potemkin Stairs” of Gagarin Boulevard, along the uppermost pedestrian section of which we walked in the last part. We'll get to it a little later:

First, let’s walk a little more along Kalinin Street, this “reserve” past life district factory Bryansk:

Vasily Rozanov taught here (in the men's pro-gymnasium) in 1882-87:

A block from the square is the Chapel of the Holy Warriors (20002-06, in memory of those killed in local wars) and another recreation center (in Bryansk the question “Why so many?” is quickly brewing), in in this case Sovetsky district:

But I must say - one of the most beautiful in the city:

Well, now let’s return to the Embankment and go upstairs:

Alas, along the main staircase there are squalid ruins and gloomy alleys:

Although not all of them:

And this is where this ladder leads (what, by the way, was in 1979?):

Ahead is Karl Marx Square (before the revolution, Red Square), or Round Square - I mentioned them several times in the last post. This is the “very center” between the Upper and Lower C ravines at dock, and only a few tens of meters separate this area from Lenin Avenue. However, it would not have fit into the previous post, since this is the most interesting ensemble of Bryansk. Even in the plan there is a circle of a park inscribed in a building square:

Let's go around it from below (that is, from the end of the stairs) counterclockwise. To the left of the entrance is the Bryansk Regional Duma (1955) and the women's gymnasium (1907), which was a city committee under the Soviets, and is now occupied by various government institutions:

On the right is the so-called Wine Castle, actually a banal distillery "Snezhet" in buildings of the 19th century. His same red wall with the slogan in the photo before last, as well as the never-implemented grandiose Stalin-era “gate” project in its place, on both sides of the main staircase, can be seen in Darriuss’s post about the square and its surroundings.

In general, Bryansk is so industrial that there is a factory here right on the main square - in my opinion, they didn’t even think of something like this in the Urals:

On the next corner there are two more monuments to the Bryansk province of the 1920s, which, by the way, form a single block with the one built at the same time former House banks and industry from the previous part. On the right is the House of Communications, which was late for the abolition of the province (1931), on the left is the clinic (1927), past which Gagarin Boulevard leads directly to Lenin Square:

There are very beautiful lanterns throughout the square, near the House of Communications equipped with loudspeakers, creating a relaxed background of some popular radio in the square:

On the next corner (on the right, pay attention to the turret of the House of Banks and Industry - this is how close the places from the last post are) is already the third era - the Chernigov Hotel (1946-47; and in Chernigov, it seems, there is a Bryansk Hotel ) and the regional library, of course, named after Tyutchev (1955), especially since the park named after him is adjacent to it on the other side:

And finally, the already familiar women's gymnasium - the most impressive example of pre-revolutionary school in Bryansk, completing the circle:

And along the street past it you can go to the oldest example - the Bryansk customs house, founded here under Peter I (the building itself, however, seems to be from the end of the 18th century):

Opposite across Fokina Street, between the Stalin buildings with towers, is the entertainment complex "City Hall", the former cinema "October", best known in Bryansk for the fact that on April 25, 1959 it fell on spectators during a show - according to official data, 47 people died then , but since the investigation was strictly classified, locals believe that there were hundreds and hundreds of dead, and in general, apart from the war, it was the largest tragedy in the history of Bryansk (however, the theater was built by captured Germans, and there is a legend that some structural defects were their revenge). A lot has been written about this tragedy and its participants (), but they told me a story about how, during the collapse, one Dormash worker was the fastest to find his bearings, quickly pulled his boss out of the rubble (!), and received permission from him to drive to the plant for some departmental equipment, and with this equipment he saved a lot of people. But in general, in every big city There is probably such a place - somewhere there is a collapse, somewhere there is a fire, somewhere there is a stampede or a bus falling into the river, somewhere there is a terrorist attack - only the number almost always hovers around fifty lives lost.

Stalin details in the neighborhood:

Yes, constructivist houses from the times of the Bryansk province below the slope:

In general, this is ALMOST all about Bryansk itself - in the next part there will be a hodgepodge of attractions of the city (Mounds of Immortality and Chashin Kurgan) and the surrounding area (Svensky Monastery, the miracle church in Tvorishichi). And then two more about Bezhitsa, which seems to be part of Bryansk, but “to the eye” it’s a completely separate city.

Preface.

I received a letter from Tatyana Podoskina, who, mistakenly believing that I was the administrator of the village’s website, asked for assistance in posting a photo. Not being able to help her on that site, I suggested that she publish her material on the site of the Palace of Culture. Many thanks to Tatyana, she did not refuse my request. Having read the contents, I have no doubt that what she wrote will be of interest to anyone interested in the history of the village. Tatyana herself determined the form of presenting the material, like captions for photographs from a home album. I post it with gratitude to the author and her family members with the hope of continuation.

My small homeland - White Beach

Photo 1. My mother’s family moved from Kashira to the village of Belye Berega in 1937 after the arrest of my great-grandfather Ignat Dmitrievich Zverev. My grandfather Vladimir Ignatievich Zverev, an electrical engineer by training, began working at the Bryansk State District Power Plant, and my grandmother Praskovya Semyonovna Zvereva was a housewife. The family lived on Lenin Street, building 5, apt. 16. This photo was taken on this street in 1937. It shows my mother, Albina Vladimirovna Zvereva (she is 5 years old) with her mother Praskovya Semyonovna (on the right in the picture) and her neighbor from the 3rd floor, Evgenia Komarovskaya. Between the houses along Lenin Street right side(if you look towards the Palace of Culture) there were small squares with sculptures similar to the one shown in the picture.

Photo 2. Mom went to the BRES kindergarten, which was located on Proletarskaya Street. The photo taken in November 1938 shows a children's party in honor of the 21st anniversary October revolution. My mother is in the first row on the right.

Photo 3. In 1939, my mother went to first grade. In the picture on August 30, 1939, there is my mother’s class and the teacher. The photo was taken on the territory of the current park named after M.I. Todadze; behind wooden fence Proletarskaya Street passes; a building is visible behind the Lenin monument kindergarten, which little Alya went to.

Photo 4. November 7, 1939 (XXIIanniversary of the revolution). A rally in front of the Bryansk State District Power Plant House of Culture.

Photo 5. In the photograph from 1939, Alya Zvereva is next to a sculpture, the location of which in the village, unfortunately, has not yet been determined.

Photo 6. My grandfather Vladimir Ignatievich Zverev was a very enthusiastic person. He was always interested in technology. In 1939, he was one of the first in the country to assemble a television with his own hands. My mother remembers that her mother, Praskovya Semyonovna, used to say to her husband, who was sitting in the evenings assembling the TV: “Take a break from work, go out for a walk on the Fresh air like others." But Vladimir Ignatievich persistently achieved his goal, and his TV started working, although the screen was no larger than a matchbox! The Zverev family and their neighbors could watch some programs from Moscow.

Photo 7-9. May Day festive demonstration in 1940 on Lenin Street.

Photo 10. Behind the building of the cultural center there was a birch grove with a large wooden gazebo. The residents of the village loved this vacation spot. Warm September day 1940. Mom smiles at the camera, on the bench is Vladimir Ignatievich (right) with his wife Praskovya Semyonovna and younger brother Dmitry. Dmitry Ignatievich graduated from the Belobezh school in 1939, then entered the Moscow Institute of Fisheries, from the third year he was called up to the front, went through the entire war as a lieutenant in the chemical service, and was awarded the Order of the Red Star. After the end of the war, he completed his studies at the university, sailed on the whaling flotillas “Slava” and “Aleut”, then worked at fish factories in Novorossiysk and Sevastopol.

Photo 11-12. June 1941 was cold, but the children were happy with any weather. Anya and Seryozha Badaeva, children of a good friend Anna Antonovna Badaeva, came to visit the Zverevs in Belye Berega from Moscow. Alya (she is wearing a white cap), Anya and Seryozha are playing and walking together. In photo 11 they are on Proletarskaya Street (in the perspective, the lake is hidden behind the pine trees). In a few days the war will begin...

Photo 13. Destroyed BRES. 1943

Photo 14. In 1943, immediately after the liberation of the Bryansk region from Nazi invaders, Vladimir Ignatievich Zverev returned to Belye Berega and participated in the restoration of the BRES.

Photo 15. The house on Lenin Street, in which the Zverev family lived before the war, was destroyed. In 1943-44 V.I. Zverev, while working to restore the BRES, lived in a hostel, the location of which could not be determined.

Photo 16. In February 1944, my mother and grandmother returned from evacuation. The family moved to live in Bryansk, but in the summer of 1944 they came to Belye Berega and found a destroyed house in which they lived before the war, and among the things, as my mother recalls, in the ruins there was only an ax without an ax handle. In the photograph from 1944, Alya Zvereva in the village with her cousin Misha Salmin.

Photo 17. For a long time My grandfather’s sister Lidia Ignatievna Zvereva and her son Misha also lived in the village of Belye Berega. Aunt Lida, an engineer by training, was very interested in literature and theater. In the 1950s she took an active part in the work of the amateur theater of the Palace of Culture. This significant photograph from 1956 captures a meeting between members of the drama club and prominent figures of the village with the famous film actress Lyubov Petrovna Orlova. After almost 60 years, unfortunately, not all of them were identified:

1. Mamontov Vladimir Stepanovich - at that time the chief engineer of the Bryansk State District Power Plant, and after the death of Tyukin in 1963 - director of the Bryansk State District Power Plant.

2. Tyukin Ivan Dmitrievich – director of the Bryansk State District Power Plant.

3. Uncle Anna Semenovna.

4. Uncle Karina.

5. Orlova Lyubov Petrovna.

6. Binkina.

7. Vadim Upadyshev – Head of the Laboratory of Measuring Instruments and Automation at State District Power Plant.

8. Tamara Matyukhina.

9. Zvereva Lidiya Ignatievna.

12. Uncle Svetlana.

13. Dyadin Evgeniy Ivanovich.

20. Manukhina (Shtakh) Tamara Fedorovna.

25. Binkin.

26. Mitichev Nikolay – mechanic at the laboratory of measuring instruments and automation of state district power plants.

27. Novikov.

Photo 18. My parents moved to White Beach at the end of 1957. We lived at the address st. Vokzalnaya, 17. In fact, the house is located at the intersection of Vokzalnaya and Proletarskaya streets. In the photo I am 1 year old and I am walking along Proletarskaya Street near our house in the early spring of 1960 with my nanny, Aunt Dasha (Daria Demidova); on the right is my paternal grandfather Sergei Tikhonovich Kudryavtsev.

Photo 19. My parents worked at BRES. Mom is a senior engineer in the technical department, and dad is the head of the thermal automation laboratory. In the photo from 1966, employees of this laboratory at a cleanup day on the territory of the BRES:

1. Mitichev Nikolay – mechanic.

2. Buldygin Mikhail Zakharovich – mechanic.

3. Luzhetsky Georgy – mechanic.

4. Luzhetsky Ivan – mechanic.

5. Anatoly Sergeevich Kudryavtsev – head of the laboratory (my father).

6. Kamynin Victor – mechanic.

In 1968, our family moved to Bryansk. But ties with his native village were not interrupted. While we were children, every year in the summer my parents often took my sister and me to the lake and our favorite canal, and now my children and nephews enjoy visiting these memorable places for us.

Tatiana Podoskina

The suburban Bryansk village of Belye Berega received another bridge - Bely. It was built over a weekend. They didn’t even ask the state for a nail.

“There are people on Earth who cannot live without creating. These are the Beloeberezh bridge builders, - this is how the Beloeberezh residents told about themselves.

Two weeks ago they spent preparatory work for the construction of an arched bridge to Youth Beach. The only thing that was difficult to obtain was lumber. Residents of the village together began to look for beams and boards.

On Saturday, “the whites ruled.” Young and old alike came out with axes and saws, as usual. They worked cheerfully, even festively, with jokes. The White Bank residents themselves did not expect such inspiration. From morning to evening saws rang and axes clattered. Some drove oak piles, others laid spans of logs, and still others built decking. The new Beloberezhsky bridge across the ditch is almost built, it will be completed next Saturday. It will not only be beautiful, but also safe.

Sergey Konobeev notes:

- Women and girls took an active part in construction. Everything was interesting, beautiful, appetizing, sometimes intriguing. The children rejoiced at the scrambled eggs with lard.

Pilaf and a hot bath with an ice-hole became the final chord of the festival of community labor. In White Beach, whose amazing residents have already been reported in the Russian press, they have proven that a person does not live by wages or foreign cars alone. The joy of such communication is given primarily to children, who spoke with delight about the day of creation.

White Beach- an urban-type settlement in the Bryansk region of Russia, administratively subordinate to the Fokinsky district of the city of Bryansk. Population - 9.6 thousand inhabitants (2010). The largest of settlements Bryansk region, which does not have local governments.

Located 15 km from eastern outskirts regional center, on the Snezhet River, the dam on which forms Beloberezh Lake - the largest artificial lake in the Bryansk region. Surrounded on all sides by the legendary Bryansk forests.

Railway station on the Bryansk - Orel line.

Palace of Culture in White Beach

Directly near White Beach there is an interchange of major highways M3 Moscow-Kyiv and A141 Orel-Smolensk.

Story

The founding date of the current urban settlement is considered to be 1868, when it was opened railroad station Belye Berega on the Bryansk-Orel line. But back in the 1700s, 6 km from the current village was founded monastery Beloberezhskaya Desert, from the name of which the entire surrounding area began to be called White Beach (which later gave the name to the station). The rapid development of the village began in the 1920s in connection with the construction of the Bryansk State District Power Plant.

The status of an urban-type settlement was assigned by a resolution of the Presidium of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee of November 20, 1932.

Attractions

To the west of the village there is the Beloberezhskaya Monastery, the largest memorial Complex Bryansk region "Partizanskaya Polyana", an extensive sanatorium and recreation area. 10 km to the south is the Khatsun memorial complex (on the site of a village burned by the fascist occupiers).

Ecological situation

For a long time, the environmental situation in the town of Belye Berega was unfavorable due to significant air pollution from emissions from the Bryansk State District Power Plant, which operated on peat. Since the mid-1990s, the state district power station has been converted to gas; the situation has improved significantly. However, since 2007, the condition of the so-called “warm channel” - a non-freezing artificial channel that served to drain heated water from the turbines of the state district power plant - has been causing concern. The Warm Canal was built in the late 1950s; Over the past half century, it has become not only a favorite vacation spot, but a unique miniature ecosystem has formed around it. Since 2007, due to the cessation of regular discharge warm water, the canal has turned into a stagnant reservoir, now unsuitable not only for swimming, but even for the habitat of the former flora and fauna. Since the canal directly flows into Lake Beloberezh, an environmental disaster can spread to this body of water and also cause diseases among the population.