Bacterial infections of aquarium fish are very diverse, so their treatment methods can differ significantly from each other, at least in terms of the drugs used. But let's try to generalize what can be generalized, and try to bring significant information into one topic. We will consider what is written below as a kind of limited reference guide, which, I really hope, will be at least useful to someone and at least sometimes help save a few fish lives.
Traditional pathways of bacterial infections
- New fish not properly quarantined. They can be carriers of infections. At the same time, it is possible not to notice the disease visually right away, and sometimes it is not visible, but it will develop especially quickly, especially considering the often occurring stressful state of the fish during the “move”. That is why quarantine is highly recommended. Do not consider quarantine keeping new fish separately for 1-2 days or bathing the fish once, for example in methylene blue and/or potassium permanganate. During this time, only some diseases can be detected in an explicit form, and potassium permanganate can still not kill all bacteria. Quarantine is an important and slow measure to minimize the risk of infection from this source.
- If you feed your fish live food, especially from unverified sources, or store food (live or frozen) incorrectly, then this is a possible source. This is not to say that the fish should be fed only dry food, just be careful about the choice of food. You should not buy food that causes at least minimal suspicion and in dubious sources. Remember that even freezing in household freezers cannot guarantee complete disinfection of food, especially from bacterial problems.
- The causative agents of many diseases, including bacteria (and, unfortunately, not only nitrifying and other useful ones), live in almost every aquarium. It's just that in favorable conditions for fish, these bacteria are few, and the fish have sufficient immunity to resist these infections. But if the conditions for keeping fish worsen (for example, water pollution with waste products, in particular, organic residues and nitrogenous compounds, increases, the temperature or acidity of the environment jumps), then expect trouble. Therefore, make sure that your fish live in comfortable conditions for themselves, then they will not be afraid of almost any disease. In addition, do not forget that the treatment of fish without improving its living conditions makes little sense - the disease is likely to return again.
It should be noted that accurate identification of bacterial infections is possible only with the use of a microscope, and sometimes only in the conditions of special laboratories with the need for seeding culture with subsequent microscopic examination. In this regard, it is often difficult to choose a particular drug, so you have to use broad-spectrum drugs or mixtures of drugs.
What are the typical bacterial diseases most common in aquariums?
- Fin rot. The causative agent is bacteria of the group Pseudomonas.
It is characterized by the destruction of the fins with white clouding of the edges of the collapsing fins. It happens that this disease develops as a secondary infection after damage to the fins, for example, ichthyophthyroidism, or after a change in hydrochemical parameters (for example, with a sharp change in pH when fish are transplanted from one aquarium to another) or in the presence of harmful compounds in the water (waste products, drugs ). - Columnaris. Pathogen - bacteria Flexibacter columnaris. It is characterized by whitish spots, often with a coating, especially in the head part (on the lips), bruises on the body. The most susceptible to this disease are viviparous toothed carps. This disease is almost always introduced into an aquarium with new fish.
- peptic ulcer(aeromonoses and/or pseudomonoses). Pathogen - bacteria groups Aeromonas and Pseudomonas. Formation of ulcers on the body, ruffling of scales. Very often, the disease affects labyrinths, in particular lalius, especially when it comes to imported fish.
Antibacterial drugs
With all the richness of the choice of antibacterial drugs (both branded, intended directly for fish, and from a regular, human pharmacy), we will mention only some of them, the most popular and affordable:
- Nifurpirinol. Contained in branded medicines - Bactopur-Direct (Sera), Furamarin and Aquafuran (Aquarium Munster), Furanol (JBL) (not sold in human pharmacies). Has a wide spectrum of action. It is also active against bacteria of the Aeromonas, Citrobacter, Edwardsiella, Flexibacter, Pseudomonas groups.
An example of successful treatment of scrofula aeromonosis with this drug: I am trying to treat aeromonosis - Other nitrofurans - in particular furazolidone and furatsilin(aka nitrofurazon), sold in human pharmacies. They are part of some branded drugs, for example, Furan-2 (from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals) (this drug, by the way, can be independently "created" from available furazolidone, furatsilin and methylene blue - Furan-2 with your own hands).
Active, especially in combination, in particular against Streptococcus, Flexibacter, it is sometimes possible to suppress infections caused by Aeromonas and Pseudomonas bacteria. - Ciprofloxacin. Contained in the domestic drug Antibac firm Agrovetzashchita. Antibac can be replaced with pharmacy ciprofloxacin, which is several times cheaper (or more expensive ciprofloxacin, ciprolet and drugs with many other synonymous names - http://slovari.yande..., but with the same active substance). It has an even wider spectrum in relation to bacterial infections than nifurpirinol. Active in particular against Aeromonas, Citrobacter, Edwardsiella, Flexibacter, Pseudomonas, Streptococcus.
Ciprofloxacin, in addition to the negative impact on the hematopoietic organs, excretory system, CNS, etc., etc. (which, it should be noted, many drugs have), has one more unpleasant property: if you did not guess right with the choice of the drug or made an insufficient dosage (parameters such as Ph, water hardness, the presence of organic matter in water, etc. affect), then after the use of ciprofloxacin, strains appear that are absolutely not susceptible to reserve antibiotics. In any case, such antibiotics are not known to me.
Ciprofloxacin can be replaced with a more humane fluoroquinolone - enrofloxacin. - Enrofloxacin. Similar in properties to ciprofloxacin. Contained in the following veterinary preparations: Baytril, Kolmik, Enroflon, Antibak-Pro (in this preparation together with metronidazole).
Dosage: apply 5 ml of a 10% solution per 100 liters of water. The course of application of the drug is 7 days. There are no analogues of the drug from human pharmacies. - Erythromycin. Contained in the preparation E.M. Tablets (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals), while such a drug, of course, is many times more expensive than a pharmacy one. Active against Aeromonas, Pseudomonas.
- Tetracycline. Contained in the drug T.C.Capsules (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals), (pharmaceutical tablets, of course, are noticeably cheaper). Active, in particular, against Flexibacter.
- Bicillin-5(sold in human pharmacies). Active against Aeromonas, Pseudomonas.
- Omnipur(Sera) and General Tonic(Tetra) - drugs with a wide spectrum of action, including against bacterial infections.
Unfortunately, they have low antibacterial activity therefore it makes sense to use them only at an early stage of some diseases. - Tripaflavin-Ultra(Zooworld). Contains tripaflavin (aka acriflavin) and some kind of nitrofuran (most likely furazolidone or furatsilin). They succeed in curing some diseases caused by Aeromonas and Pseudomonas, especially at the initial stage. Good to use in combination with copper sulfate.
- fiosept(Zoomir). Contains basic violet K. Active against Aeromonas and Pseudomonas.
And a few links to topics where the recalculation of the dosage for pharmaceutical preparations is given:
Ciprofloxacin and Erythromycin: Ruffling of scales in Lyalika
Tetracycline: Help! The fish are dying one by one!!!
To make searching easier the right medicines in pharmacies, I suggest taking advantage of the Internet, and not immediately wandering around pharmacies, because. Not all drugs are always available in all pharmacies.
Non-drug treatment for aquarium fish
It is worth mentioning another method of treatment - drug-free. This is the use of a UV sterilizer. It allows you to successfully cure many diseases, including bacterial infections. There are no contraindications to this method, it is especially gentle for fish. (added by YRus's reminder)
At the end, it should be especially touched next topic. Most antibacterial drugs act not only on pathogenic bacteria, but also on beneficial aquarium bacteria that carry out biofiltration in the aquarium. In this regard, the use of such drugs in a common aquarium can cause a failure of biological balance, followed by poisoning of fish with their waste products. Therefore, treatment with antibacterial drugs is recommended to be carried out in a sump with regular water changes, with some reduction in fish nutrition and control of nitrogenous compounds. If this is not possible, then you can treat the fish with short-term bathing baths, taking them each time for the procedure from the main aquarium. If there is no such possibility and treatment can only be done in a common aquarium, then be prepared for the destruction of biofiltration, which will inevitably lead to the need for regular frequent changes and a long-term restoration of populations of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium.
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TREATMENT OF AQUARIUM FISH
BRIEFLY ABOUT FISH TREATMENT.
This note contains brief postulates and thoughts on the treatment of fish for beginners and hobbyists. Read them carefully, they will help you and your pets.
1. Assess the feasibility of treatment. Sometimes the cost of a medicine (500 rubles) is several times higher than the cost of a fish (neon 50 rubles). No matter how cruel it may sound, but in what was said there is common sense. We are only FOR if you are responsible for those who have been tamed and treat the fish as a family member and all that. But no one has canceled the concepts of rationality and expediency.
2. Before any treatment, 1/4-1/2 of the water is replaced with fresh water. This is done in order to maximally level the concentration of nitrogenous compounds - poisons. It is important to understand that often these poisons are the root cause of fish diseases. Fish are poisoned by them, their immunity falls and the pathogenic flora calmly attacks the weakened organism.
3. In addition, it is advisable to always have on hand drop tests for the above poisons + for. For what? Firstly, to know the concentrations and not to allow them to be exceeded. Secondly, it is not always necessary to completely zero nitrate (NO3) and phosphate (PO4), for example, in a planted aquarium, zeroing them will lead to additional problems with plants, because. nitrate and phosphate are the main nutrients for plants. Thirdly, the tests themselves allow not only to monitor the situation, to understand the root cause, but also to control the situation before, during and after treatment.
Remember - it is impossible to make medicines with high nitrogen and phosphates! Thus, you will only aggravate the situation, since medicines will also be added to the poisons, which both heal and destroy. That is, they have not only positive properties, but also negative ones. Remember that any medicine is not a panacea, not a magic pill.
What tests to use? At your discretion, but preferably drip, not strips, because. drip more accurate. In principle, take the tests that you find, for example, there are certainly in every offline store. If these tests are expensive for you, it is quite possible to find our inexpensive domestic ones at retail, if time is running out or you want to take tests for the future, then our recommendation (only sold online), also domestic, is also inexpensive. Each of the above tests has its own specifics, incl. watch and think for yourself. The note is still not tests, but about the treatment of fish.
4. How, with what and from what to treat? Any forum discussions about the disease of fish are fortune-telling on coffee grounds. Because the accurate diagnosis an ichthyoptologist can put it after scraping from the fish and analyzing it under a microscope, or even after dissecting the fish. So, something like that, friends. Our position on the mechanism of home treatment is described in this one, look. The bottom line is brief: if the symptoms of the disease are obvious, as, for example, with or, then we treat with drugs and according to the treatment regimen for this disease. If the symptomatology is not obvious, we treat it comprehensively.
Moreover, when we talk about complex treatment» It is desirable to understand and analyze what and from what we are pouring. For example, a drug is:
Ethacridine lactate - 836.0 mg
Acriflavin - 160.2 mg
Methylene blue - 56.44 mg
9-aminoacridine * HCI * H2O - 28.20 mg
There is none, look for the components. And in general, it is advisable to collect the “Aquarium First Aid Kit” and keep it always at hand. Let's say there are Medosovskie-Vladoksovskie domestic monodrugs.
They took them, and, in fact, received the components of Tetra General Tonic. Silva ple, gentlemen.
Moreover, having gained experience, you can generally master and switch to treatment.
5. The treatment regimen itself is described in the instructions. There are no special tricks here. Please note that during treatment it is desirable to increase the aeration of the aquarium and do not keep the aquarium lighting constantly on. Many drugs, when exposed to light, quickly disintegrate.
Of course, there should not be any sorbents (coal, zeolite) in the filter, water conditioners cannot be used, such as or, they bind drugs.
6. After treatment, do not forget that many drugs disturb the biological balance in the aquarium, that is, they kill both pathogenic and beneficial flora. Here drip tests, good quality water changes, and other measures aimed at restoring the nitrogen cycle in the aquarium will come to your aid.
SUMMARY. Fish just don't get sick. Negative containment conditions are the root cause. Either you bought already stunted fish, or negative conditions have developed in your aquarium. Any treatment begins first of all with the search and leveling of the root cause. Next, a decision is made on the mechanism of treatment. During the treatment period, special attention is paid to the symptoms (regression, progress). At the same time, keep in mind that in 2-3 days the regression of the disease may not occur. After treatment, we do everything so that the aquarium begins to work as a single holistic and healthy mechanism.
NEVER =)
In this article, I wanted to talk about all the aspects and nuances of treating a sick pet. The purpose of the article is to give the basics to beginners, and to many already experienced aquarists - WHAT TO DO IF THE FISH ARE ILL.
This article will not be a revelation and a panacea, we will talk about simple and understandable things, but still, in our opinion, it is in them that the key to the health of both fish and the aquarium as a whole lies.
To begin with, let's figure out why and from what the fish get sick. Fish are the same living creatures as we are. Any living being will feel good and not get sick when it is in comfortable conditions. People go to fitness clubs, relax in sanatoriums, try to live in comfort, eat the right and wholesome food, breathe fresh, clean air and this is the key to their health and longevity.
The same applies to fish, they will always be healthy and you will not have to treat them if they live in comfort, i.e. in a healthy, complete, the right aquarium. With a certainty of 120%, we assert that in a healthy aquarium, with a set biobalance, not a single aquarium fish will get sick!
So, we have established the root cause of all troubles - " bad aquarium". What is it expressed in? There are quite a few factors that characterize the concept of a "bad aquarium":
- this is overpopulation and not correct selection fish;
- these are inappropriate parameters of aquarium water for a particular type of fish (t, pH, dH, kH, etc.);
- this is also inadequate water quality, i.e. the presence of poisons in it: ammonia, nitrite and nitrate ;
- this can be expressed in improper decoration of the aquarium;
- in defective or low-quality lighting;
- in the end, in the wrong care of the aquarium: feeding, water changes, etc.;
If we summarize all these negative factors, then we can simply say: there is no BIOBALANSA - BIOLOGICAL BALANCE.
Now, based on what has been said, let's see what happens to the body of the fish in such negative conditions. And the same thing happens as with us people - they turn on defense mechanisms. Depending on the damaging factor in fish, this can manifest itself in different ways, for example:
- in case of overpopulation or improper selection of fish, they start to fight, stress or depression appears;
- at elevated temperatures or a lack of oxygen, fish begin to swim near the surface, bulge their gills, eagerly swallow air. Again, stress, lethargy, "fainting".
- in the presence of poisons in the water, the protective mechanisms of addiction also work in fish.
Due to what work - these defense mechanisms? The answer is also simple - due to immunity. Which, as you understand, is non-rubber. And when it ends, the body of the fish ceases to resist all pathogenic organisms and / or negative factors. The disease phase begins.
What is the disease of the fish and how to treat it?
Here, when the first obvious signs of poor health of the fish appear, the aquarist begins to frantically search for an answer on the Internet to the questions: what happened, what to do and how to treat?
As a rule, such a frantic search ends in a mess in the head and in the end, the aquarist simply goes to the nearest pet store, tells the seller at my fish “this”, receives the drug from “this”, then runs back to the aquarium pours “this”, receives from process of relief, thinking that "that's it, my fish will get better." BUT!!!... usually the opposite happens. The fish get worse and die.
What happens in the described situation. Let's say the aquarist guessed right with the medicine, which already seems to be good. But, it's not a magic pill for all ills. THIS IS THE MEDICINE! We all know that any drug has both positive and negative properties (side effects, contraindications). And now imagine “the fish has become nitrified”, that is, it has been poisoned by excessive concentrations of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, it is already bad for it because there are poisons in the aquarium and here, in addition, we are pouring medicine! The outcome of such treatment is obvious.
From the foregoing, we can make an obvious conclusion that before starting treatment, all negative factors must be eliminated, and then treated (if necessary).
Below we will develop a specific scheme that will help to carry out the treatment step by step and correctly, but before that, let's look at one more question - WHAT SPECIFICLY IS THE FISH ILL AND WHAT MEANS TO TREAT IT.
When the aquarist understands this material, moreover, he sees photos and videos of sores, he will already know approximately which group of drugs will help cure the fish. And of course, he will already have an idea about the mechanism, the treatment procedure, which is also important, because some diseases are treated only in a common aquarium, and some can be treated in a quarantine aquarium, some can be treated by using short-term baths with medicine.
In addition, the initial understanding of the issue will reduce the time before the start of treatment, which often plays an important role in the recovery of the fish - I saw the first signs of the disease, the medicine is already at hand, spent preparatory procedures, applied the medicine and the fish quickly recovered. Those. the longer we do not begin to eliminate negative factors and / or treatment, the greater the likelihood of fish death.
In our opinion, at first, the aquarist should rely on advice and positive reviews about one drug or another. Well, gradually, slowly gain experience, compare the composition of drugs, which will ultimately give an understanding of which of the drugs is effective in a particular case.
Below are the names of the most commonly used drugs, running German brands Tetra and Sera :
Tetra Contralck ,Sera costapur- from ciliates, flagellates (ichthyophthyriasis).
sera baktopur ,Tetra General Tonic- from external bacterial infections.
Sera baktopur direct ,Sera Bakto Tabs- from internal bacterial infections.
Sera mycopur- from flexible.
Questions are often asked on the forum - is it possible to treat fish with "human medicines". The answer is you can. Indeed, in fact, all branded drugs are the same “human medicines” only in a verified proportion and combination. The danger of such treatment lies only in the fact that you need to clearly know and apply the appropriate dosages. For more details see: antibiotics for the aquarium , other medicines .
And one more thing, because fish often suffer from a whole "bouquet of diseases" or a secondary infection sits on a primary infection. For example, let's say there was damage to fish tissue from a bacterial infection, do you think the "fungal villains" will take advantage of this case? Of course yes. From this, we can conclude that sometimes you should not look for a specific "villain", but treat it comprehensively.
Let's talk all over again and derive a brief scheme of actions for the treatment of fish.
SECOND UNIT, TREATMENT: After carrying out the preparatory measures, we proceed to the treatment. We develop a scheme and follow the instructions for the preparations.
Attention!!! Sometimes, especially in severe cases diseases, when the medicine is applied, the fish becomes worse and often it dies soon. Most likely, in such cases, the factor of exhaustion of the fish and the influence of the negative properties of the drug are triggered, which aggravates the situation. Therefore, after you have applied the medicine, you need to closely monitor the behavior of the fish and, if anything, remove the medicine, reducing the dosage. In such cases, it is possible to recommend the gradual introduction of drugs - in parts, and not once in a full dose.
THE THIRD BLOCK, REHABILITATION AND RESTORATION OF BIOBALANC: After completion of the course of treatment, all drugs are removed from the aquarium by replacing part of the water with fresh water and adding aquarium charcoal to the filter. It should always be remembered that any drug destroys the biobalance, that is, it adversely affects not only the pathogenic, but also the beneficial environment. In this connection, after the treatment of fish in a common aquarium, it is necessary to restore the beneficial environment. This will help you drugs such as, Bactozim , Tetra NitrateMinus , Sulfur Nitrivik and etc.
In addition, you need to take care of restoring the immunity of a fish that has just recovered, which is achieved by adding vitamins to water and food, for example, Sulfur Fishtamina or Tetra Vitala, also for these purposes, you can use tea or other herbal medicine or apply the same iodinol.
We hope that this material was interesting and useful.
Health to your pets.
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NAVIGATOR 3
interview with an ichthyopathologist
We present to your attention the third issue of Aquarium Navigator for Beginners. We decided to dedicate this issue to an urgent aquarium problem - diseases and treatment of fish. Everyone faces the problem of identifying diseases, both beginners and professionals. Even an experienced aquarist, sometimes, is not able to identify a particular disease: the pathogen changes, the symptoms change.
How to be a beginner who first encountered this problem ?!
We hope that this edition of the brochure will help you to understand everything.
Allow me to present to your attention!
Veterinarian - ichthyopathologist Vera Dudina, leading specialist of one of the largest chains of pet stores in Russia, ichthypathologist in the third generation.
Vera kindly agreed to be interviewed for our brochure.
Any healthy organism is ready to fight back any pathogenic flora on its own! Immunity is a shield that protects its owner from any enemies. But you need to understand that vitality and immunity are not eternal. If the shield constantly works in the “repelling attack” mode, it will eventually crack, and then completely crumble. And then, the innumerable pathogenic horde will burst into the body, capture and destroy it.
In addition, it should be said that one of the reasons that destroy the immune system is stress from overpopulation of the aquarium, stress associated with fish incompatibility, improper feeding, improper care, lack of proper filtration and aeration of the aquarium, high concentrations of protein breakdown products, such poisons, like ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.
All these negative factors can work both together and separately, but one way or another, they destroy the immune system of fish day after day.
trite, but the best medicine is prevention. Proper care, appropriate water parameters, the correct selection of fish are the key to the health and longevity of aquarium inhabitants.
However, none of us is immune from aquarium troubles. Anything can happen, and even under ideal conditions, fish can get sick. What to do?
A short plan of action in a critical situation.
Conduct a thorough diagnosis of the disease.
The saying "Measure seven times, cut once" fully applies to the definition of fish sores. What diseases the newcomer does not find in his wards. Almost like Jerome K. Jerome has "everything but puerperal fever." In order not to be mistaken in the diagnosis, it is necessary to know the usual behavior of the fish, behavior under stressful conditions, spawning behavior, conditions of detention, body shape, colors inherent in this species, and much, much more. Sometimes soft-water fish are kept in a cichlid environment, which causes the fish to lose their fins, and the owner also additionally treats the fish from fin rot. The outcome of such treatment is obvious. If you have carefully studied the entire list above and are still in doubt, please refer to our forum in the section
Make a decision about treatment immediately. 90% of diseases are curable at an early stage. And vice versa, even the simplest disease in the terminal stage cannot be treated.
Before treatment, test the aquarium water for the presence of poisons: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates (NH4, NO2, NO3).
In case of deviation from the norm, the poisons are immediately eliminated by water changes and appropriate aquarium preparations. See the forum for more details. The fact is that drugs both heal and destroy, i. have both positive and bad influence on the body. Their use is incompatible with high concentrations of poisons, and, in most cases, kill the fish.
Carry out the course of treatment in accordance with the diagnosis , exclusively recommended drugs in a carefully adjusted dosage, in accordance with the indicated terms.
At the end of treatment (if it took place in a community aquarium, and not in a quarantine aquarium), you must remove medical preparations(substitutions or filtering agents) and to restore biological balance, using biostarters if possible.
Additional materials for self-study:
And now, the promised interview with Vera Dudina.
Hello Vera, thank you for agreeing to give an interview.
Please tell us what branded and pharmacy preparations do you recommend to purchase in the "Aquarium First Aid Kit" so that they are always at hand?
As you know, about 90% of the problems of a novice aquarist are the fault of the aquarist himself. This is overfeeding, and overpopulation, and impatience at launch. Hence the main problem is the quality of water. Therefore, it is imperative to have an emergency protection against toxins (ammonia and nitrites). Drugs are used to neutralize them.Sera ToxivecorAPI Ammolock.
To control the content of nitrogenous compounds, one should have drop tests for ammonia and nitrites. I will emphasize here, since most beginners underestimate the importance of aquarium tests. Often, infectious diseases and poisoning with toxic protein breakdown products are very similar in symptoms. Even a specialist will not always be able to differentiate them, as they say, “by eye”.
As for contagious diseases, sooner or later any aquarist will meet with Ichthyophthirius. The sooner treatment is started, the higher the success rate and the shorter the duration of the drug application. There are quite a few drugs for treatment: , Sera Costapur, JBL Punctol, Antipar. In the initial stages of ichthyophthirius, they are all quite effective. For "advanced" cases, you will need a combination of several drugs. When using a combination of drugs, it is better to consult a specialist, because many drugs cannot be combined with each other, this can cause intoxication in fish.
It is always useful to have a light disinfectant in the first aid kit, which can be added for injuries (after fights), for mild forms of fin rot. You can use medications such asAPI Melafix (based on essential oil tea tree) or (colloidal silver solution, not recommended for use in combination with other drugs and conditioners).
This is the main set. The rest is already more highly specialized and is bought as needed.
So all the same, what drugs are better for beginners to use, branded or pharmacy?
Branded preparations are designed specifically for fish, most of them are carefully tested in specialized laboratories. For a person without relevant experience, I recommend using only them. If the funds available in pet stores are not enough (as well as when making a diagnosis), it is better to consult a specialist to clarify the diagnosis and prescribe a course of treatment.
Before contacting a specialist, prepare anamnestic data:
The volume of the aquarium, its population.
How long has the aquarium been running?
Cleaning schedule, when was the last cleaning, what part of the water do you change.
The frequency of feeding, what and how much you feed, how quickly the fish eats food, is there recent times appetite changes.
What manipulations have been carried out over the past couple of weeks: new inhabitants, new decor, change of food, some other innovations…
Water parameters: pH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, hardness, if possible, are required in aquarium water. In tap water (or where you get water for the aquarium) - pH, preferably ammonia and nitrites (it also happens, unfortunately, that the cause of sores is the quality of tap water), hardness, if possible.
Symptoms: when they appeared, who is sick, a complete picture, preferably with a photo.
Based on your practice, what are the most common fish diseases and how do you treat them?
If you look specifically at aquariums for beginners and amateurs, then the most common problem, as I said, is ammonia and nitrite poisoning. Here the basis of treatment is the normalization of conditions of detention. Of the drugs usedSera ToxivecorAPI Ammolock(I have already talked about their purpose) and a culture of bacteria, for example, . The rest of the treatment is to eliminate overcrowding, do not feed the fish (on average 2-4 days), daily changes of 10% of the volume.
Treatment of infectious diseases, as a rule, is strictly individual. It depends on the inhabitants, the intensity of the disease, the presence of plants, snails, shrimps and other factors.
Based on the theme of the Navigator, what fish, in your opinion, is it better not to take a beginner?
First of all, I do not advise taking non-aquarian fish. These are swimmers and giants: shark balls, pangasius, red-tailed catfish, snakeheads, armored pikes and many others. Such fish need very specific conditions of detention, large volumes. For many of them, even 500 liters will be catastrophically small.
From experience - very often beginners do not cope with cichlids. Pisces are aggressive, wayward, territorial. Feeding varies greatly depending on the species. Improper feeding - common cause intestinal disorders and hexamitosis. For their content, a sufficiently solid theoretical base and practical experience are needed.
The most important thing is not to forget that the flight of your imagination is strictly limited by the volume of the aquarium and the compatibility of the inhabitants with each other. Never buy an unfamiliar fish spontaneously because you like it. Find out its name, look at home for information on content requirements, maximum sizes, compatibility, if after that you realize that the fish is yours, you can go buy.
The main secret is not a secret, but a rule: to ensure good conditions of detention. Avoid overcrowding, schooling fish are kept in a school, those who hide have enough shelters, shallow and big fish not kept together, balanced proper feeding, clean and safe water. All this is the prevention of stress, and as a result - a decrease in immunity.
Iodine and vitamins affect the immunity of fish, these components are contained in the air conditioner of the companyTetra - . This drug can be used on a regular basis, weekly, after a water change.
On the Internet, you can find information about the use (as a light antiseptic, to speed up regeneration), "Vetoma 1.1" (as aid in complex treatment, the bacteria that make up it synthesize interferon - a protein, a factor of nonspecific antiviral immunity), human recombinant interferon and roncoleukin (also immunomodulator drugs with antiviral activity).
Often, fish get sick with one disease, say a bacterial infection, and then pick up a secondary infection - a fungal one. In this regard, the question arises - then in all cases it can treat "everyone and a rhinestone." That is, immediately apply both bactericidal and fungicidal drugs? Or is it still better to treat in strict accordance with the symptoms?
The main principle of any treatment is "do no harm". Very often there are cases when fish (and not only fish) die not from a disease, but from treatment. Many medicines cannot be combined categorically. If there is a suspicion that a combined infection is taking place, it is better to seek the help of a specialist in order to select compatible drugs.
What medication can you still recommend in addition to the main treatment, for insurance purposes? Is it possible to treat and use herbal medicine at the same time?
Well stimulates the immune system iodine. In the treatment, an infusion of iodine alcohol is added - 5 drops per 100 liters or - 1 ml per 10 liters. Be careful, an overdose of iodine is unacceptable and deadly! You can use brand name (according to instructions).
Often in the aquarium where the treatment is carried out, in addition to sick fish, there are aquarium plants, shrimps and snails. Snails can be obtained for the period of treatment, but plants and shrimp are not always available. Tell me, what drugs, in your opinion, are well tolerated by plants and crustaceans? What drugs are clearly contraindicated in such cases?
Definitely you can not use copper and preparations containing it. Refrain from using products whose composition is not indicated. Plants and invertebrates react poorly to nitrofuran preparations:Sera baktopur direct, Antibak Pro, furazolidone, furatsilin.
There is experience in the treatment of ichthyophthyriasis in an aquarium with plants and shrimps with the drugSera Costapur. Of the antibiotics in the herbalist, enrofloxacin (a veterinary drug) was used. Also safe for all inhabitants are preparations based on essential oils- API Melafix andAPI Pimafix.
Often on the Internet you can find information that when introducing a drug and treating it, you need to turn off the lighting of the aquarium. For example, drugs such as Sera bactopur direct and the antibiotic metronidazole. So, is it necessary to turn off the lighting for the duration of the treatment or not? If so, why and for which drugs?
Many antibiotics decompose in the light. Therefore, they write in the instructions that it is necessary to store in a dark place, and jars for medicines are traditionally made of dark glass. Bicillin-5 and nitrofurans (Sera bactopur direct, Antibak Pro, furazolidone) decompose unambiguously. There is no information about how fast this process goes. If possible, of course it is better to turn off the light.
How do you feel about UV sterilizers as a way to prevent diseases?
Please tell us about the typical signs (symptoms) of this or that disease? So that beginners can better navigate.
Many diseases are very similar symptoms, and it is not always possible to determine the diagnosis. Sometimes the diagnosis cannot be made without microscopy or even an autopsy.
I will talk about the symptoms that you should definitely pay attention to, without reference to diagnoses. I would not like to have diarrhea treated with sleeping pills on my tip.
So, what should you pay attention to? Not only with your fish, but also when buying in a store.
Behavior: heavy breathing, the fish stands on the influx of oxygen or “smokes” near the surface. It lies at the bottom, is not active, or vice versa, moves unnaturally sharply, rushes about. Scratching about the ground and scenery. The fish, which is usually kept in plain sight, begins to hide, seeks solitude.
Feeding. Refusal to feed. The fish repeatedly takes and spits out food. There may be emaciation, for example, a sunken abdomen, shrunken backs, unnatural big eyes, protrude the bones of the skull.
Lesions of mucous membranes and scales. First reaction to aggression environment- increased mucus secretion. First, bubbles begin to stick to the body of the fish (this can often be seen when planting fish in a new aquarium, this is the result of stress from changing water parameters). Then there are matte grayish accumulations of mucus, gradually increasing in size. On the body you can see erosion, ulcers, hemorrhages, necrosis (tissue necrosis). Sometimes scales fall out on the affected areas.
Gill lesions. The fish breathes heavily, mucus can be released from under the gill covers. Often the fish emerges and stands near the surface, “smoking”. The gills may become unnaturally red, or vice versa - pale.
Fin damage. So-called " fin rot» - white coating, as if eating fins. Sometimes only the tissue between the rays is affected, while the rays themselves remain.
These are the main symptoms to watch out for. In fact, there are many more of them, carefully observe the behavior and condition of your pets in order to identify the disease in time.
90% of beginner aquarists whose fish are sick have an overestimated concentration of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates in the aquarium. In this case, as a rule, the patient already has an average, or even a severe stage of the disease. What is the best thing for a beginner to do in such a situation: remove poisons and heal at the same time? Remove poisons, and then heal? Or, at your own peril and risk, immediately proceed to treatment?
In practice, there was such a case - they brought two goldfish from a round aquarium. The fish had terrible ammonia burns, they did not fall from the surface of the water, they often breathed. With all this, they were struck by ichthyophthirius. It is important to balance the risks here. Almost any medicine will finish off the fish in this serious condition, therefore, the temperature in the aquarium was slightly lowered in order to slow down the development of ichthyophthirius and remove intoxication. Used drugsSera ToxivecandAPI Melafix. A week later, the gills began to heal and the fish swam in the water column. Only after that we raised the temperature again and treated the ichthyophthirius.
In each case, the decision will be made individually, depending on the state of the water, fish, the intensity of the process, and other conditions.
Sometimes the fish are injured from fights and skirmishes with neighbors, or, for example, when a viral growth forms on the fin, it is stopped. What drug would you recommend for quick wound healing?
Again, any disinfectant: API Melafix and API Pimafix, almond leaves, decoction of oak bark, tea. In extreme cases - methylene blue or tripoflavin.
Please give parting words to beginner aquarists.
I would like, of course, to avoid all these troubles. However, as practice shows, sooner or later diseases visit every aquarium. Most importantly, do not delay treatment. The score sometimes goes not even for days, but for hours. A disease that was easily treated yesterday is becoming deadly today.
And, of course, health to you and your pets!
Dear reader! Below, we have prepared for you additional materials on the issue of fish diseases and aquarium hydrochemistry, they will help you to further explore the topic covered in this brochure.
Fish diseases.
Fundamentals of aquarium hydrochemistry.
Fish diseases (and not only) are divided into two large groups - infectious and non-infectious diseases.
Infectious diseases have a specific pathogen (it can be a bacterium, virus, fungus, etc.) and are transmitted from an infected individual (or from an intermediate host) to a healthy one.
Non-communicable diseases are various injuries, congenital pathologies and diseases caused by violation of conditions of detention. To know the causes of their appearance and to be able to distinguish a contagious disease from a non-contagious one, you need to understand the basic chemical processes that occur in an aquarium.
Let's take a closer look at each group of diseases.
non-communicable diseases.
This is an extensive group of diseases, which includes injuries, congenital pathologies and diseases caused by violation of conditions of detention. In an amateur aquarium, most of the diseases are non-contagious! Very often they are confused with fungal and bacterial infections. Be careful! The treatment of infectious and non-communicable diseases is fundamentally different and incompatible with each other. Incorrect diagnosis and incorrect treatment in this case can seriously harm the inhabitants of the aquarium.
Within the framework of this topic, we will get acquainted with diseases caused by a violation of nitrogen metabolism:
Ammonia and ammonium poisoning;
Nitrite poisoning;
Nitrate poisoning, nitrate shock;
Nitrogen cycle:
It is not for nothing that many experienced aquarists consider the nitrogen cycle to be the basis of the basics. The ability to create and maintain biological balance in the aquarium - the best prevention most ailments. What is hidden behind the terrible phrase nitrogen cycle? Let's figure it out.
We all know that fish love to eat ... They love to eat very much. The common truth is that everything that has been eaten will come out sooner or later. Excrement of fish, uneaten food, corpses and dead parts of plants - all this is biological waste, which in the water begins to decompose under the action of various microorganisms.
Any protein contains nitrogen (N), nitrogen decomposition products are extremely toxic to fish, and therefore, in order to avoid serious poisoning, it is necessary to understand how the nitrogen cycle works.
Ammonia / Ammonium.
Ammonia (NH₃) - is the first stage of protein decomposition. Ammonia is a poisonous gas that dissolves easily and in large quantities in water.
In an acidic environment, most of the ammonia binds with hydrogen and forms the ammonium ion (NH₄¯). It is believed that ammonium is not toxic, but it is not. Ammonium has all the properties of ammonia, just acts a little slower.
Where does excess ammonia come from? How is it neutralized in the aquarium? How to recognize ammonia poisoning in fish? How to help the fish in case of poisoning?
MPC = 0 mg/l
* MPC - the maximum permissible concentration of a substance that is safe for life and health.
Causes of ammonia poisoning:
Overfeeding;
overpopulation;
Insufficient aeration;
100% water change;
Predisposing factors:
Small volume;
Goldfish;
Antibiotic treatment;
What questions will help us to know that ammonia poisoning is possible in the aquarium?
What is the volume of the aquarium? Who lives in it? So you can draw conclusions about overpopulation, if any.
How do you feed - how many times a day and in what quantity?
How long has the aquarium been running? Perhaps the aquarium is new, in which case it is more prone to ammonia outbreaks.
How often do you change the water? How much water do you change? Often, novice aquarists, in pursuit of clean water, change it completely, and the most enthusiasts also boil the soil.
Symptoms of ammonia poisoning are quite bright and characteristic:
A large amount of mucus on the body;
The fish “itches” on the ground and decorations;
Reddened gills;
The fish stands on the influx of oxygen;
Hemorrhages in the gills and at the base of the fins;
The fish is breathing heavily;
The water takes on a whitish hue;
With strong overfeeding, the water acquires a yellow-brown hue and a putrid odor;
The diagnosis is confirmed by testing the water for ammonia;
Diagnostics:
History taking (feeding, care, volume, population, clinical signs…)
Water testing with ammonia/ammonium tests.
Treatment:
Daily ¼ water changes.
Normalize filtration and increase aeration (filter sponge is a substrate on which bacteria live, the larger it is, the better, bacteria need oxygen to decompose ammonia and nitrites).
Nitrites.
MPC = 0.2 mg/l
Nitrites (NO₂) - formed from ammonia in the presence of enough bacteria (Nitrosomonas).
Nitrites are also toxic to fish, but their toxicity is much lower than that of ammonia. They can cause chronic, almost asymptomatic poisoning.
Like ammonia, they are effectively removed from the water only with the help of bacteria (Nitrobacter).
The causes of nitrite poisoning and its treatment will be in many ways similar to ammonia. However, it is much more difficult to diagnose it, since there are practically no bright symptoms. An accurate diagnosis can only be made based on the results of water testing.
Causes of nitrite poisoning:
Overfeeding;
overpopulation;
Insufficient filter power;
Insufficient aeration;
Insufficient amount of soil;
Incorrect start of the aquarium;
100% water change;
Predisposing factors:
Small volume;
Goldfish;
Antibiotic treatment;
high water hardness, high level pH (cichliders);
Symptoms:
There are usually no specific symptoms;
Regular singular case;
The fish is sluggish, stands with its nose buried in the corner of the aquarium;
The fish does not eat well;
The fins are compressed, the color turns pale or darkens;
There may be a small amount of mucus on the body of the fish;
Treatment similar to treatment for ammonia poisoning (but nitrites remain in the water much longer, so the duration of treatment may be longer):
Do not feed for 2-3 days! (To stop the processes of decomposition and the formation of excess ammonia).
Eliminate overcrowding if there are too many fish.
Daily ¼ water changes (no more).
sera toxivec (this drug binds ammonia in a non-toxic form and protects the mucous membranes of fish from aggressive environmental influences).
sera bio nitrivec, Tetra Safe Start (cultures of live bacteria that naturally decompose ammonia and nitrite).
Normalize filtration and increase aeration (filter sponge is a substrate on which bacteria live, the larger it is, the better, bacteria need oxygen to decompose ammonia and nitrites).
Nitrates.
MAC = 25-100 mg/l.
Nitrates (NO₃) are the end product of nitrogen decomposition. They are removed from the water by water changes, or consumed by plants as a source of nitrogen.
Accumulating in the aquarium in large quantities (rare water changes, or their complete absence) can cause nitrate poisoning. When transferring fish from a safe aquarium to an aquarium with high concentration nitrates, the so-called "nitrate shock" can be observed.
Maximum allowable concentrations vary for different fish - on average it is 50 mg / l, for unpretentious fish(zebrafish, local breeds of guppies) up to 100 mg / l, capricious fish (discus, clown botsia) - 25 mg / l.
Causes of nitrate poisoning:
Infrequent water changes, or their complete absence
Predisposing factors:
Overpopulation.
Overfeeding.
Absence of living plants.
Symptoms:
The fish is “tightened”, grows poorly;
Viviparous fish stop spawning;
New fish "do not go" to the aquarium, they have a "nitrate shock" ( acute poisoning and sudden death within 1-3 days);
Diagnostics:
History taking (feeding, care, volume, population, clinical signs…).
Water testing with nitrate tests.
Treatment:
Regular water changes.
If a long time the water in the aquarium did not change, the soil did not siphon - it is necessary to press on the soil in several places before the first cleaning, check for bubbles (methane and hydrogen sulfide are formed in the soil in the absence of oxygen, as in a swamp). If there are bubbles, it is necessary to carefully drain most of the water, transplant the fish there, and then rinse the soil (otherwise, hydrogen sulfide kills the fish within 15 seconds). The old water is poured back into the aquarium, then fresh water is added.
Planting live plants minimizes the accumulation of nitrates in the water.
Infectious diseases.
Infectious diseases have a specific pathogen and can be transmitted from a sick individual to a healthy one.
Depending on the type of pathogen, infectious diseases of fish are divided into several groups:
Protozoal diseases (ichthyophthyriasis, costiasis, hexamitosis, oodiniasis…).
Bacterial diseases (flexibacteriosis, aeromonosis ...).
Fungal diseases (saprolegniosis ...).
Viral diseases (lymphocystosis ...).
Let's consider each group separately.
Protozoal diseases:
Ichthyophthyroidism: It is also known under the names "Manka", "ichtik", "White spot disease" (white dot disease), "Ich", "Ick".
The symptoms are very characteristic - white dots up to 1 mm in diameter appear on the body of the fish.
Development cycle:
Tomont. It is covered with a shell - a cyst, thanks to which it is practically invulnerable to adverse environmental conditions. Viable ichthyophthirius cysts have even been found in tap water! Depending on the conditions, the cyst either falls asleep or the tomont in it begins to actively divide.
Tomont is divided, forming up to 1000 daughter cells (trophozoites or tramps).
Tramps dissolve the cyst and enter the water. The life span of a vagrant is two days. During this time, she must find a host (then the development cycle will repeat) or she dies.
Features of tropical forms:
Tropical ichthyophthirius, eastern ichthyophthirius, "eastern".
At the moment, many ichthyopathologists separately distinguish the so-called "tropical ichthyophthirius". In contrast to the cold-water form, it is extremely stable, it is very difficult to treat.
The cycle of development occurs completely on the body of the host, the cyst is formed directly under the epithelial tubercle, the tubercle is torn, the vagrants spread and immediately penetrate under the epithelium.
The rash is small, barely noticeable.
The rash is located in clusters.
Resistant to high temperatures (up to 32°C).
Resistant to many drugs (using FMC, furazolidone).
Boneosis (ichthyobodosis):
The causative agent is the flagellate Costia (Ichthyobodo) necatrix.
The fish “itches” on the rocks.
Gray-blue matte spots appear on the body.
When the gills are damaged, the fish breathes heavily.
The fins are very sticky.
The fish swims near the surface with characteristic "twitching" movements
An accurate diagnosis can only be made based on the results microscopic examination scrapings.
Treatment:
- Sera costapur 1 ml per 40 liters (every other day) + Sera mycopur 1 ml per 40 liters - half the dose indicated in the instructions (daily).
- Baths with potassium permanganate and salt: 2% saline solution(2 teaspoons of salt per 1 liter of water), potassium permanganate until a clear pink, but not intense, color, exposure 10-15 minutes.
Oodiniasis:
Oodinia, velvet disease, gold dust, colisis disease.
Pathogen - flagellates of the genus Oodinium.
Symptoms:
The body of the fish becomes "rough".
The rash is practically invisible to the naked eye; under a magnifying glass, you can see the characteristic golden dust.
Outwardly very reminiscent tropical shape ichthyophthirius.
Development cycle:
Division of the tomont in the cyst into 256 tomites.
Formation of dinospores (gymnospores).
Treatment:
1. Bicillin-5: pH not lower than 6.5, t from 24 ° C, the light does not turn on. 1-1.5 million units per 100 liters of water. The next day, change 30% of the water and add a full dose of bicillin. The third treatment after two days and the last - after 7 days.
2. Preparations of heavy metals (especially copper) - “Formamed” works well, it is used according to the instructions.
Hexamitosis:
Octomitosis, spironucleosis, hole-in-the-head disease, discus disease.
Symptoms:
Transparent-whitish, often filamentous and often viscous mucous excrement.
Loss of appetite. Then the refusal of food. In mild cases, fish "spit" by repeatedly taking food into their mouths and then spitting it out.
Some increase (bloating) in the abdomen (not always observed). Then the fish begin to lose weight and their belly acquires a characteristic keeled or concave shape, and the back dries out. The fins are very sticky.
Darkening of color, solitude.
Erosion and ulceration of the scalp and change in the appearance of the lateral line (perforated disease).
Treatment:
1. Hyperthermic treatment: raise the temperature to 33-35°C. last resort when the fish is in serious condition, do not eat. Raise no more than 3-4 ° per day.
2. Metronidazole (Trichopol): 250 mg per 35 liters. For three days, medicines are applied every day after a water change (up to 25%). Then - every other day, replacing about 10-15% of the water. Course 12-15 days!
3. Metronidazole + ciprofloxacin (enroxil, baytril): metronidazole for large adult (not depleted!) cichlids - 1 tab. (250 mg) per 15 liters. water, for small species and young cichlids - 1 tab. 25-30 liters, full dose daily after a 50% water change. Ciprofloxacin - 500 mg per 50 liters (Enroxil / Baytril 5% - 1 ml per 10 liters). After 3 days, the drugs are applied in a half dose.
Bacterial diseases:
The causative agents of this group of diseases are bacteria. These are also unicellular microorganisms, but unlike Protozoa, they are more simply arranged, do not have a nucleus, as a rule, are much smaller.
Columnariosis:
Flexibacteriosis, fin rot, gray saddle, cotton mouth disease, Asian, aquarium plague.
Pathogen: BacteriaFlexibacter Columnaris .
Strictly aerobic (requires oxygen).
Warm-water (temperature increase during treatment is unacceptable).
Gram-negative (for treatment, a group of antibiotics with a spectrum of action on gram-negative microorganisms is selected).
Non-halophilic (does not live in salt water).
Conditionally pathogenic (cause disease only under stressful conditions).
It can occur even in good conditions, with sufficient aeration.
Predisposing factors - high crowding, stress, transportation.
Symptoms:
White spots about 5 mm; over time, the white area increases.
White-gray cotton-like coating (similar to the Saprolegnia fungus) or growth, as if "eating" the skin of the fish.
Necrosis (premature death of cells of living tissue) of the fins, which is accompanied by a white coating and cannon-like accumulations of bacteria.
Sometimes areas of the body of fish affected by Columnaris bacterium darken to almost black or take on the color of flesh (meat).
"Saddle-shaped" (saddle-like) affected area in the region of the dorsal fin, which gave the second name to the disease - "gray saddle".
On the gills, Columnaris can cause the gill filaments to disintegrate, changing their color to light or dark brown. In this case, rapid breathing is observed, and the fish can rise to the surface of the water, where the oxygen concentration is higher.
Treatment regimen:
Ciprofloxacin- water-soluble forms ("Cifran") are used, other tablets are practically insoluble in water. Dose - 500 mg per 50 liters of water. It is applied daily before turning off the light in a full dose for 3-7 days. It has a negative effect on the organs of hematopoiesis, the excretory system, and the central nervous system. At wrong dosage after the use of Ciprofloxacin, strains appear that are absolutely not susceptible to all antibiotics.
antibac(ciprofloxacin) - 1 tablet per 100 - 200 liters of water. It is applied daily before turning off the light in a full dose for 3-7 days.
Enroxil (Baytril)- 5% solution - 1 ml per 10 liters of water. It is applied daily in a full dose for 3-7 days. Less toxic than ciprofloxacin.
small fish ( blue neon, rhodostomus) - enroxil (baytril) 5% 1 ml per 10 l once (or twice with an interval of 12 hours) in preventive purposes immediately after disembarking from the packages.
Levomycetin- 1 tablet (0.5 g) per 10 liters of water. It is applied 1 time in 3 days. Course up to 3 weeks.
sera mycopur
Contains acriflavin active against Flexibacter Columnaris on early stages diseases.
Prevents secondary seeding with fungal infections.
It is applied daily at a dose of 1 ml per 20 liters (1 drop per 1 liter of water).
It is used as an auxiliary drug in addition to antibiotics.
Doxycycline + Biseptol-480
Doxycycline - 2 capsules (200 mg) per 100 liters of water. It is applied 1 time in 3 days. Course up to 3 weeks. Daily replacement of 25-30% of water, and we add 100 mg per 100 liters (1 capsule) of doxycycline.
Biseptol-480 - 1.5 tablets per 100 liters. Then daily 0.5 tablets per 100 liters.
Course 5 - 7 days (up to 10).
API PimaFix
Antifungal agent on a natural basis (Baye essential oil).
In the early stages, it is able to influence the pathogen. Stimulates the immunity of fish. Prevents secondary fungal infections.
Apply daily at the rate of 5 ml per 38 liters, as an adjuvant in conjunction with an antibiotic.
Auxiliary means:
Salt
Viviparous, goldfish, tetradons, monodactyls, argus - 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.
Scaleless - 1 tbsp. l. per 40 liters of water, with care, under the supervision of general condition fish.
The rest of the fish - 1 tbsp. l. For 20 liters of water.
Strictly! Prepare stock solution. It is poured into the aquarium in 3-4 stages with an interval of 30-60 minutes. Salt sensitive fish should be monitored for several hours.
The water temperature gradually, for the duration of treatment, drops to 22-24°C.
Aeromonosis:
Rubella carps, abdominal dropsy, ruffling of scales.
Pathogen: bacteriaAeromonas punktata .
Rubella cyprinid is also called broad group diseases caused not only by Aeromonas bacteria, but also by Pseudomonas fluorescens (causative Pseudomonas fluorescens), a viral disease - carp spring viremia).
The causative agent is a strict anaerobe (does not require oxygen in the water for breathing), so the disease is more common in aquariums with poor aeration, in old acidic water, under poor conditions and regular overfeeding.
Widely distributed in the middle lane, can be introduced with live food.
Cold-water, does not like high temperatures.
Symptoms:
The fish is lethargic. Does not respond to stimuli. Stops eating. First, it gathers at the surface of the water, then falls to the bottom.
Ruffling of scales: at the beginning of the disease, the scales rise in the fish, after some time the ruffling goes all over the body and the scales begin to fall out.
Abdominal dropsy: the abdomen is swollen, the anus becomes inflamed.
Puffy eyes.
Hemorrhagic ulcers: blood spots appear on the body and fins, then they ulcerate. The ulcers are blood red with a white border.
Treatment regimens.
Roncoleukin
Roncoleukin- at the rate of 50,000-100,000 IU per 10 liters, every other day 3-4 applications.
Stimulates the immune system of fish, suitable as an adjuvant in the treatment of any variety of carp rubella.
Ciprofloxacin, Antibac, Enroxil, Baytril.
All drugs are active against aeromonosis and pseudomonosis, treatment regimens are the same as for columnaris.
Doxycycline + Levomycetin + Nystatin.
This combination is used in severe cases in the presence of large ulcerative lesions.
Doxycycline - 1 capsule 100 mg per 30-35 liters.
Levomycetin - 500 mg per 20 liters.
Nystatin - 200,000 units. for 30 -35 liters.
Apply every other day, after changing 1/3 of the water.
Increase aeration.
The course is 10-30 days.
Nitrofuran preparations: furazolidone,Sera baktopur direct.
Sera baktopur direct 1 tablet per 50 liters of water every 3 days, after a 30-50% water change. Can be used in the form of short-term baths - 1 tablet per 2 liters of water, exposure 30 minutes. The drug is extremely toxic.
Furazolidone 1 tablet (50 mg) for 10-20 liters every other day.
Preparations of the nitrofuran series can be combined with antibiotics, for example, with levomycetin or ciprofloxacin.
Argules:the causative agent is the gill-tailed crustacean argulus (carpoid, carp louse).
Thermophilic.
Size 4-8 mm.
They feed on the blood of fish.
The female lays about 250-300 eggs on glasses, decor or other substrate, the eggs develop for 3-5 weeks depending on the temperature.
The larvae, having hatched from eggs, swim freely for 2-3 days, looking for fish, if they do not find it, they die.
Treatment:
Lerneosis:
Pathogen - copepods lerna (Lernaea cyprinaceaandLernaea elegans).
One female lays 1400 eggs (two egg sacks of 700 eggs each) every 2 weeks for 16 weeks.
The larvae swim freely in the water until puberty.
Treatment:
2. Specialized products - sera Argulol, JBL Aradol Plus.
Gyrodactylosis:
Pathogens - monogenetic flukes of the familyGyrodactylidae.
The fish is slimy, the fins stick together.
Characteristic "twitching" movements appear.
Treatment:
Praziquantel preparations:
Dactylogyrosis:
Pathogens - monogenetic flukes of familiesDactylogyridae.
Species-specific (infect strictly certain kind fish).
They feed on mucus from the body of the fish (do not feed on blood).
The gills are pale pink, edematous, anemia develops.
Mucus is visible from under the gill covers.
The fish refuses to eat, hangs near the surface, breathes heavily.
Treatment:
1.Sera med Professional Tremazol, JBL Gyrodol Plus, JBL Gyrodol 2, JBL GyroPond (according to instructions).
2. Azipirin, Azinox, Drontal - 1 tablet per 10-15 liters of water, once, exposure for a day, increase aeration, change 50% of water in a day. In especially neglected cases, a second treatment can be carried out according to the same scheme.
Fungal diseases.
The causative agents of this group of diseases are lower fungi. Fungal diseases, as a rule, are not independent diseases. They appear as secondary infections when the skin is damaged.
"Wadding disease" (saprolegniosis):
Pathogen - fungi of the genusSaprolegnia,Achyla and others.
Symptoms:
The fluffy neoplasms, usually white or whitish, consist of individual filaments.
As a rule, the infection is secondary, develops when the skin is damaged.
Treatment:
1. Improving the conditions of detention.
2. Treatment of the underlying disease.
3. Specific preparations (Sera mycopur, according to the instructions)
Viral diseases.
The causative agents of this group of diseases are viruses. These are the smallest microorganisms consisting of a protein coat and nucleic acid (DNA or RNA). In ichthyopathology, there is no specific treatment for viral diseases. Immunity is stimulated, symptomatic treatment is carried out.
Lymphocystosis (bunion nodularity):
The causative agent is a virusLymphocystis
Symptoms:
Small white, gray-white or pinkish growths, most often on the fins, as well as on the head and body.
Treatment:
1. There is no specific treatment, as a rule, it is enough to improve the conditions of detention, and the disease goes away on its own. For full recovery need 1.5-2 months.
2.Sometimes surgery is used (if the neoplasm interferes with eating or swimming).
3. To stimulate immunity, iodine () can be added to the water, especially valuable fish - Roncoleukin at the rate of 50,000-100,000 IU per 10 l, every 3-4 days of application.
Diagnosis and choice of treatment:
It is not always possible at home, without a microscope, to make an accurate diagnosis. Let's look at the different options:
Option 1: You have made an accurate diagnosis.
We carry out treatment according to the scheme for this disease.
Option 2: you see that there are deviations from the normal state, but it is impossible to make an accurate diagnosis.
2. Intestinal infections: Feed in small portions 2-3 times a day, preferably live food or frozen. Dissolve metronidazole and chloramphenicol in the feed, 1 tablet for every 4-5 bloodworm cubes, course 1-2 weeks. You can add metronidazole to water 1 tablet 250 mg per 40 liters (daily or every other day, depending on the severity of the disease), a course of 2 weeks.
We monitor the effectiveness of the applied treatment, if necessary, make adjustments.
Important! It is necessary to take into account information on the content and, if possible, to make water tests for key indicators, because poisoning with nitrogenous compounds, acidosis and alkalosis "disguised" as infectious diseases. In this case, the use of drugs will worsen the situation!
Compatibility of drugs:
Not all drugs can be combined with each other. When combining drugs, it is necessary to consider:
Medicines must not be used together with conditioners Tetra AquaSafe, Sera aqutan, Sera toxivec (conditioners protect the mucous membranes of fish, reducing the availability of medicines, and neutralize part of the medicines).
Medicines should not be used in conjunction with UV treatment (ultraviolet destroys medicines).
During treatment, it is necessary to remove coal and zeolite from the filter (sorbents neutralize the effect of drugs).
During treatment, there should not be an excess of organic matter in the water (decomposing organic substances react with many drugs, reducing their concentration in water).
Iodine stimulates fish immunity, goes well with most drugs, 5% alcohol solution- 5 drops per 100 liters.
When combining drugs, drugs with the same active ingredient and antibiotics of the same group, such as Ciprofloxacin and Baytril, Sera costapur and Ichthyophore, cannot be combined (this leads to overdose and drug poisoning).
Very useful video about the treatment of aquarium fish
Almost every owner of an aquarium with fish has encountered certain diseases in their pets. Fish, like people, have many different ailments, the prevention and treatment of which also differ. Now we will talk about the main diseases of fish, their causes and the main ways to solve this problem.
Diseases caused by pathogens
They are dangerous because they can be transmitted from one individual to another - thus one infected fish can lead to the death of all the inhabitants of the aquarium. Consider the main types of such ailments.
bacteria
Bacteria are microorganisms, in most cases representing a single cell.
It is not so much the presence in the aquarium that often leads to bacterial diseases of fish pathogenic microorganisms how much weakened immunity. This can be caused by stress from irritants, fluctuations in water temperature, aggressive behavior neighbors.
The main types of bacterial diseases:
Fungi
Fungal pathogens are fungi that infect the body and internal organs fish. Fungal reproduction occurs when the water is too cold and the aquarium is not properly maintained. Preventive measures against them are cleanliness in the aquarium, disinfection of live food and the purchase of fish and plants in proven places.
Important! Sometimesit is difficult to determine the disease of the fish on your own - in this case, you should contact an ichthyopathologist to conduct tests and make the correct diagnosis.
Often there are such fungal diseases of fish:
Invasive
Acanthocephali
Treatment is carried out with the help of "Competition", which needs to process a quarantine aquarium with infected individuals.
A preventive measure for introducing acanthocephalans into an aquarium is a strict ban on feeding pets with live food from reservoirs with fish.
Coelenterates
Important! When treated with hydrogen peroxide, free oxygen is released, which is harmful to the fish, so they must be removed during treatment.
annelids
annelids- These are different types of leeches. For aquarium fish, they are enemies, as they can easily destroy the inhabitants of the aquarium. Annelids can live in the bottom layer and are favored by poor aquarium hygiene.
Leeches that have not had time to stick are removed with a net or siphon. An infected aquarium must be treated with organophosphorus compounds, for example, Trichlorfon, removing fish from it for the duration of the treatment. After 2-3 weeks, re-treatment is necessary.
Filamentous worms
When they appear, they should be treated with antihelminthic drugs, for example, "Piperazine". It is also necessary to filter the excrement and remove it with a siphon to prevent re-infection.
To expel the worms, it is necessary to keep the water temperature at 33-35 ° C for several days. To combat them, the drugs "Flubenol" and "Febtal" are also used, carefully observing the dosage according to the instructions.
Important! Among the natural methods of destroying harmful worms, the most effective is the introduction of hungry macropods into the aquarium.
Crustaceans
Crustaceans settle on the surface of the fish and suck its blood. In addition, in order for the blood to clot faster, they secrete a poisonous secret that causes weakness and shock in the fish. And acting on the gills, they are able to strangle the fish.
Viruses are intracellular pathogens that reproduce only in living cells. They spread to neighboring cells and remain in the body. In this case, even a healthy-looking fish becomes a virus carrier. The virus can enter the aquarium from an infected individual.
The most common virus in aquarium fish is lymphocytosis. Its main symptoms are the presence of flat growths and nodules on the body of the fish.
The toughest way to get rid of the infection is the removal and subsequent destruction of the sick individual. Plants in the infected aquarium are also destroyed, and the soil and decorations are boiled for 30 minutes. The aquarium must be disinfected, and all fish must be quarantined for a month.
Protozoa
Protozoa are single-celled organisms that are capable of damaging both the outer surface of fish and internal tissues. In small quantities, they are on the body of the fish and do not cause them much harm.
Did you know? The largest aquarium in the world is located in Singapore, its volume is 54.6 million liters.
The alarm should be beaten if their number increases to the point that can provoke a disease. This is possible in case of weakened immunity due to stress, poor quality water and other adverse external factors.
Among the simplest there are such organisms:
Diseases not caused by pathogens
Fish diseases are not always caused by various pathogens. Often the causes of diseases can be of physical and chemical origin, as well as the result of an improper feeding regimen. They are not contagious, but each of these causes deserves special attention.
physical origin
Diseases physical origin, mainly due to improper care of the fish: poor-quality water, poorly selected temperature conditions. Below are the most common fish diseases caused by this cause.
Alkalosis (too high pH)
Alkalosis is often referred to as alkaline disease due to the fact that the acidity level in the aquarium rises, which can be detrimental to some types of fish. This phenomenon is possible if aquarium inhabitants are kept in conditions with a higher pH level of water than in the natural environment.
At the same time, the skin of the fish becomes dull, breathing quickens, their gills secrete mucus, and the inhabitants of the aquarium themselves tend to jump out of it.
Treatment is carried out using a suitable pH buffer available from pet stores. Repeated partial water changes to fresh water with a pH value close to neutral will help to gradually adjust the pH level. This will reduce the amount contained in the aquarium. minerals capable of causing chronic alkalosis.
A preventive measure for this disease is initially correctly selected water for all types of fish, and the inhabitants of the aquarium themselves must be compatible with respect to pH.
Acidosis (too low pH)
In contrast to alkalosis, the reverse situation occurs, an underestimated pH level. A sharp drop in pH usually occurs in an environment that does not contain minerals.
The fish become slow and shy, their color fades. Individuals swim sideways or belly up. If timely measures are not taken, the inhabitants of the aquarium die.
Did you know? Catfish like to swim upside down, for them this is completely normal.
Treatment and preventive measures for this disease are similar to those for alkalosis.
Anoxia (lack of oxygen in fish)
Aquarium inhabitants can get sick with anoxia when the level of oxygen in the water is low. Fish in this case begin to suffocate and die. It is worth alerting if pets show anxiety, often swim to the surface of the water and gasp for air.
If pets have similar symptoms (and also to prevent this disease), it is necessary to regularly monitor the water filter. It is also necessary to install aeration equipment, if it is not already there.
Anemia (anemia)
Large fish are susceptible to this disease if their place of residence is– small aquariums with poorly aerated water. Another reason for this disease is the low amount of amino acids in food.
The fish becomes lethargic, refuses food, weakness and dystrophy appear. She stops responding to stimuli, there is a hang in the aquarium. Before death, it begins to rotate rapidly or hangs upside down.
Unfortunately, it is impossible to cure anemia, the death of fish cannot be avoided. Measures to prevent this disease are a spacious aquarium and nutritious food, which must be diversified with crustaceans or daphnia. Shredded lettuce and nettle leaves will also not be superfluous.
Asphyxiation or suffocation of fish
This trouble will affect your pets if they are in water with a low oxygen content (less than 3 mg per 1 liter of water) for a long time. The reasons for this are improper maintenance of the aquarium and a large number of fish (more than 1 cm of fish length per 1 liter of water).
In fish, rapid breathing, raising to the surface of the water and greedy swallowing of air are observed.
An infusion of 15% hydrogen peroxide solution (1 ml of solution per 1 liter of water) and improvement of pets will help to cope with this problem.
gas embolism
This disease is caused by excessive accumulation of water-soluble oxygen, which occurs when plants actively release oxygen on sunny days of summer. It enters the circulatory system of the fish in large quantities and clogs the vessels.
Fish become restless, react sharply to external stimuli, their fins are destroyed. In some cases, the lens of the eye and the cornea become cloudy.
Recovery of infected fish will occur if they are transplanted into an aquarium with an oxygen content of no more than 10-15 mg per 1 liter of water. To protect your pets, you need not to produce intensive aeration of aquarium water with a large number of plants and bright lighting.
Hypoxia (oxygen starvation) of fish
Hypoxia occurs when insufficient oxygen enters the bloodstream of the fish. Poor conditions of detention and physiological reasons, such as damaged gills, can provoke it.
In fish, breathing accelerates, they hang and swim near the surface of the water, gasping for air. Further, breathing becomes difficult, the gills swell, the pets lose strength and fall to the bottom.
If you notice oxygen starvation in fish, you need to immediately establish powerful aeration so that the oxygen concentration rises. Preventive measures for this phenomenon will be a thorough study of the pet's need for oxygen and the timely elimination of factors that can cause hypoxia.
Tumors in fish
Tumors are pathological growths of tissue. They are divided into benign and malignant. Benign tumors grow slowly and do not harm surrounding tissues. Malignant tumors damage tissues and form metastases.
Tumors are not treated. Sick fish should be killed immediately and painlessly. To prevent tumors, it is necessary to protect fish from carcinogenic substances, and also to exclude spoiled food from the diet of pets, which may contain a fungus that can provoke cancer.
Hypothermia and overheating in fish
Hypothermia can be caused by a heater failure, a sudden power outage, or transportation in cold weather. When the temperature in the aquarium is too low, the fish becomes lethargic and lies on the bottom. Fish can die if left in too cold water for a long time.
When hypothermia, frozen fish are warmed gradually, slowly raising the temperature to the optimum value. If hypothermia is due to defective appliances, they should be replaced.
Overheating can occur due to the presence of the aquarium in direct sunlight or in hot weather. In fish, breathing quickens, the gills swell and expand. Prolonged overheating can lead to death.
If the fish is overheated, you need to do a partial water change in the aquarium with cold water to bring the temperature down to a safe level.
The temperature is too high or too low
When the temperature deviates by 3-4 ° C from the norm in one direction or another, the fish may experience a shock state. When the temperature is too high, the fish rush around the aquarium and try to leave it. Low temperatures make the movements of the fish sluggish, their gill covers open slowly.
It is necessary to set the temperature in the aquarium suitable for a particular type of fish, use a heater if the temperature deviates to a lower side, and periodically change the water to a colder one during the hot season.
Injuries in fish
Aquarium fish can get damaged for various reasons. Their severity can also vary: from torn scales to muscle rupture. The inhabitants of the aquarium can cripple each other when they behave aggressively.
Pisces with high immunity quickly recover from inflicted injuries, while weak individuals need help.
If the wound is serious and the internal organs are affected, it is unlikely that the fish will be cured. If the wound moderate, then the fish is placed in a separate aquarium, where it is provided with a calm recovery. To speed up the effect of wound healing, you can add methylene blue to the water.
Shock in fish
Shock in aquarium inhabitants appears under stressful factors. The more sensitive the individual, the more likely it is to undergo this condition. Shock happens:
- osmotic,
- nitrate,
- temperature,
- chemical,
- toxic.
The symptoms of shock are different:
- acceleration or deceleration of breathing,
- faded color,
- sometimes fish fall to the bottom belly up.
chemical origin
Diseases of aquarium fish of chemical origin are all kinds of poisoning. Depending on what poisoned the fish, their main types are distinguished.
General fish poisoning
This is a common problem in aquarists and can lead to disease and death. Distinguish between acute and chronic poisoning depending on the degree of toxicity of the substance that caused the poisoning.
Most often harmful substances enter the aquarium due to improper equipment and decoration. The first symptoms that pets have general poisoning are loss of coordination, glazed eyes and suffocation.
We need to transfer the fish to a new aquarium. If this is not possible, then remove the source of contamination and perform multiple water changes until the signs of poisoning subside.
Poisoning by ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, nitrates and nitrites
The excretion of ammonia is produced by the fish themselves in the process of metabolism. It is very poisonous, even small doses of it cause death. Its high content can cause food residues in large quantities, the large number of aquarium inhabitants. The fish breathe heavily, their coordination is disturbed. Fish poisoned by this substance must be immediately transferred to clean water and a filter installed.
Hydrogen sulfide poisoning occurs due to overfeeding of aquarium inhabitants, when food with fish excrement forms an anaerobic environment, as a result of which hydrogen sulfide will be released in the water. The water becomes cloudy and the fish suffocate. The aquarium must be thoroughly washed and cleaned to remove the cause of hydrogen sulfide.
Nitrate poisoning is relatively painless, but some species of fish have an increased sensitivity to them. Nitrate poisoning is characterized by pale gills, choking, and lethargic fish. For treatment, about half the volume of water is changed.
Nitrite poisoning is more dangerous than nitrate poisoning and can lead to death. characteristic feature this type of poisoning is the dark coloration of the gills. For treatment, you need to add methylene blue to the water (3-4 mg per 1 liter of water).
Metals
The most common poisoning is provoked by iron and copper. They can come from water pipes, along with food, from metal-containing medical preparations. The symptoms of this disease are:
- color change,
- blurred eyes,
- fish suffocate and stay near the surface of the water.
The water in the aquarium is replaced with fresh water and the filter is thoroughly cleaned. Sick fish are placed in a reserve aquarium. But even if sick fish recover, they most likely will not be able to breed and grow.
Chlorine
This happens if the water for the aquarium is not defended, or an insufficient amount of time is defended. Chlorine is disinfected tap water, but a high content of this substance in the water is detrimental to fish.
They secrete mucus, which first covers their gills, and then the entire surface of the body. Individuals with poisoning are very excited, they rush about and try to jump out of the water.
To treat chlorine poisoning, fish are transferred to clean, settled water or an activated carbon filter is used.
Products of the chemical industry
These products are all around us. For fish, the following are especially dangerous:
- An aquarium hose that releases plasticizers into the water over time.
- Paint and tobacco smoke. They can be dangerous if the room in which these odors are present is not ventilated.
- Detergents that are used for the aquarium.
- Medications, or rather their overdose.
- Epoxy putty, which coat the inside corners of the aquarium.
Treatment occurs by eliminating the cause of poisoning as quickly as possible, changing the water and washing the aquarium, interior items and the filter.
New Aquarium Syndrome
This is the poisoning of the inhabitants of the aquarium with ammonia or nitrite after launching into a new aquarium, as well as with a large amount of fresh water when replacing it.
The reason for this phenomenon is the non-observance of the rule: a new aquarium should be without fish for some time. Before you let the inhabitants there, a biological balance must be established (the ratio of various microorganisms to the aquarium environment). This usually takes 2 to 4 weeks.
If this period is not met, it will be difficult for the aquarium inhabitants to breathe, the coordination of their movements will be disturbed, the body and fins will darken.
Did you know? By deriving some ornamental breeds fish were engaged in ancient China in 1500 BC. e.
To rid pets of New Aquarium Syndrome, they need to be temporarily relocated to an aquarium where ammonia and nitrite levels are low.
Diseases as a result of improper diet and quality of feeding
In the case of a frivolous approach to feeding their aquarium pets, they can have serious problems. Below are the main problems in fish due to improper feeding.
constipation in fish
In constipation, the intestines are blocked by food. This problem is associated with feeding pets monotonous food, mostly dry food. Also, this phenomenon can occur if the fish swallows a large piece of food or an inedible object.
With this disease, pets do not have excrement, lethargy and lack of interest in food can also be observed. For the treatment of constipation of fish, it is necessary to feed the larvae of mosquitoes, daphnia and cyclops.
Important! Each type of fish requires an individual approach to the size of food and the frequency of feeding.
Also, with constipation in aquarium inhabitants, peas or beans will help, which need to be boiled, cooled, crushed and fed to pets.
gonadal cyst
A cyst is a tumor with liquid and semi-liquid contents. Fish get sick with this if females and males are kept separate for a long time and fed the same food.
Symptoms of this disease are a greatly enlarged belly and refusal to eat. Then the fish become sterile and die.
The disease is often asymptomatic and is detected when saving the fish is no longer possible. If the disease is detected at an early stage, the individual is placed belly up in a wet cotton swab and stroked with a finger from head to tail so that the cyst is squeezed out through the anus. But even this will not save the fish from infertility and a decrease in lifespan, although there are exceptions.
Obesity
This problem arises from overfeeding and monotonous dry food. Another reason may be a small aquarium with a large number of inhabitants in it.
Fish suffering from this disease move little, swim poorly, their belly grows. It causes infertility and death of pets.
When observing signs of obesity in pets, they need to be given a variety of food, but in small portions. It is necessary to feed 1-2 times a day with the amount of food that the fish will eat in 5-10 minutes. Periodically give your fish a "fasting day" when they don't get food. If the aquarium is cramped, then it is necessary to free up space from plants, decor items. It is necessary to seat the fish if there are too many of them.
Fish diseases are a problem that every aquarist can face. You should carefully monitor the fish in order to detect the symptoms of diseases at an early stage, thereby providing timely assistance to your pets. And knowing about the signs of the main types of diseases, each aquarium owner can take preventive measures to prevent their occurrence.
Fish, like all pets, are prone to many diseases. But if the disease is diagnosed in a timely manner and treated, the fish can be saved. Most of the diseases can be easily suppressed in the early stages of development.
It is important to correctly diagnose and promptly begin treatment.
Diseases of aquarium fish are divided into:
In any case, treatment should begin immediately and be carried out until the complete recovery of all individuals in the aquarium.
Non-infectious diseases of aquarium fish
All diseases of fish occur under the influence of external factors or improper care from the side of man. And most of them can be fatal in fish. Therefore, you should know exactly these diseases in order to prevent them in time and prevent the pets from dying. These include:
- chlorine poisoning;
- lack of oxygen;
- wrong temperature regime;
- alkaline disease;
- obesity.
Each of these factors is extremely dangerous for the fish, and therefore you should know as much as possible about them, and show more attention to the aquarium and its inhabitants.
Chlorine poisoning
The reason for this poisoning is the effect of harmful chlorine on the fish. The main symptoms of the disease are labored breathing, mucus-covered gills and lightening of the color of the scales. The fish are extremely restless and are constantly trying to jump out of it. After a short amount of time, they become very lethargic and soon die.
In order to avoid this, you need to regularly check the level of chlorine in the water. If the fish show the first symptom of malaise, then they must be urgently relocated to another aquarium with clean water.
Lack of oxygen
With this disease of fish behave extremely restlessly and constantly float to the surface to grab air. The main sign that there is a lack of oxygen in the water is the behavior of snails, which periodically float to the surface. If the aquarium is constantly lacking oxygen, then this will lead to weakened immunity, infertility and loss of appetite. The result is a quick death of pets.
To eliminate this cause, you need to install aeration equipment in the aquarium and periodically check the filters and the correct air circulation.
Wrong temperature setting
If the temperature regime in the aquarium is chosen incorrectly, then this can adversely affect the health of the fish. If the temperature is too high, pets will too active, they often float to the surface to gulp air. Indeed, as a result of a rise in temperature, oxygen starvation begins in the fish and they can even die.
If the water is too cold, the fish slow down and can lie almost motionless on the bottom aquarium. Excessive cooling can cause pets to catch colds and die. Therefore, it is imperative to monitor the temperature of the water in the aquarium.
However, there are some fish that tolerate temperature extremes well. These include goldfish, neon, guppies and some others.
alkali disease
The disease occurs against the background of an increased or decreased alkali content in the water. If there is too much alkali in the water, then the behavior of the fish becomes active, the gills swell strongly and mucus appears on them. The color of the fish is very dull.
If there is not enough alkali in the water, then the fish become too shy, but activity and mobility are reduced. They can swim both upside down and sideways..
Alkaline disease most often affects those fish that respond to changes in the acid-base balance of water. A similar disease leads to splitting of the fins and death of the pet.
In the treatment of this disease, gradualness is extremely important. Water is brought to a neutral value by gradually changing the level of alkali in it. If the changes happened very quickly, then the fish need to be transplanted into another aquarium and let the water return to normal.
Fish obesity
Most often this occurs as a result of excess fat content of feed. At the same time, in herbivorous fish this amount is exceeded by 3%, and in carnivorous fish - by 5%. In addition, obesity can occur due to malnutrition or too monotonous diet.
As a result, the internal organs of the fish are affected, it becomes lethargic, sides swell and as a result, the fish becomes sterile.
In order to prevent obesity in fish, they need to organize a proper and varied diet. It should contain a large amount of protein and ballast.
For prevention purposes, it is worth leaving pets for several days a month without food. At the same time, the size of the aquarium should be chosen so that the pets can develop and swim freely.
Infectious diseases of aquarium fish
If non-contagious diseases are not transmitted from one individual to another, then infectious diseases affect all the fish in the aquarium at once. That is why you should be extremely careful to ensure that there are no individuals in the aquarium that can infect everyone else.
There are a lot of varieties of such ailments, and therefore you need to know at least some of them in order to prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and the death of all representatives of the aquarium world. These diseases include:
- whites;
- fin rot;
- mycobacteriosis;
- neon disease;
- hexamitosis;
- ulcer disease.
Whiteskins
In this case, the disease occurs fish skin color change. She becomes very light, at times completely white. These fish swim closer to the surface of the water..
The causative agents of the disease are the bacteria Pseudomonas dermoalba, which can get into the aquarium with algae or already infected fish.
To cure the disease as soon as possible, the infected individual is placed in a container with diluted levomethicin, and all the soil and water in the aquarium should be thoroughly disinfected.
Fin rot is the most common in aquarium fish. An ailment occurs as a result of damage to the fins when bitten by other fish or due to poor water quality in the aquarium. due to illness fins are reduced, lighter and strongly deformed. Rot often accompanies various bacterial diseases. Wherein the body of the fish swells, covered with small sores.
As a treatment, methods such as changing the water with preliminary disinfection of the aquarium and the plants in it should be used. All sick fish must be placed in a container with a solution of chloramphenicol. It is not worth putting different fish together in one aquarium.
Viviparous fish most often suffer from this disease. At the same time, their behavior completely changes. They lose their orientation in space, the appetite is disturbed in individuals, they become lethargic, apathy for everything appears.
The disease manifests itself in each individual in its own way: some fish become covered with sores, they develop bulging eyes, the second go blind, their whole body is covered with black dots, bones begin to protrude through the skin.
If the disease is detected at an early stage, then its treatment is possible. For this, agents such as copper sulfate, monocycline are used. For more late stage the disease is practically incurable.
neon disease
The causative agent of the disease is the sporozoan amoeboid. The main symptoms of the disease are the spasmodic movement of the fish, it often rises to the surface of the water, while the head is pointing down. The coordination of the fish is disturbed, the skin brightens, the individual stops eating. A sick fish will keep to itself, avoiding flocks. Most often, carp species of fish are affected by the disease.
Treatment of neon disease does not give any results at all. All infected individuals must be destroyed, the aquarium should be thoroughly cleaned. But one should also distinguish between pseudoneon disease, which is cured with a solution of baktopur.
Hole and ulcer diseases of fish
When the disease affects the gallbladder and intestines under the action of the intestinal flagellate. The carriers of the disease are infected fish or poor-quality water in the aquarium. Symptoms of the disease are discoloration, detached behavior of the fish, the presence of mucous secretions.
The cure of the disease occurs under the influence of a slow increase in water temperature to 35 - 37 degrees. You can also try diluting metronidazole in water and placing the fish there.
The disease develops under the action of bacteria that have entered the aquarium with contaminated food or sick fish. The symptoms of the disease are small black spots on the body of the fish, which gradually turn into small ulcers. The individual is observed bulging, swelling of the abdomen, damage to the scales. Gradually, the disease affects the entire body of the fish.
In order for the fish to remain alive, it is imperative to start treatment at the first symptoms of the disease. For this, a solution of potassium permanganate or streptocide is used.
Invasive fish diseases
Most of the varieties of these ailments are not treatable and lead to the death of pets. For example, Glugeosis affects the body of the fish completely and leads to the painful death of the individual. At the same time, the disease is extremely contagious for other individuals in the aquarium.
Transmitted with contaminated feed or soil. Manifested by plaque on the body of individuals, which causes severe itching of the skin. Treatment should be started in the early stages in order to alleviate the suffering of the pet as soon as possible. The individual is placed in a separate container with warm water and adding salt. This measure helps to get rid of plaque and relieve itching.
Preventive measures
The diseases of fish, the description of which is now known, are rather insidious and do not appear immediately. Therefore, it is worth taking care of the fish and making sure that they do not get sick. To do this, you should follow simple rules: carefully disinfect all items intended for the aquarium, you should not buy sick fish or quarantine them first, all plants should be treated in a solution of potassium permanganate, snails should not be planted in an aquarium with fish - they can tolerate the most various diseases. Pets should be fed strictly on time.
Diseases of fish living at home occur, as a rule, suddenly. If you carefully observe the pets, you can easily recognize the first signs of common diseases.
Aquarium fish can get sick suddenly, so they need to be monitored
If it is impossible to determine the disease, they turn to laboratory diagnostics for help. Most diseases are cured easily and quickly without harm to aquarium fish.
General information
Ichthyopathology is a scientific discipline that studies diseases of aquarium fish. Their treatment is not always successful, but possible. Diseases are classified into the following types:
- contagious, which are divided into infectious and invasive;
- non-contagious.
Infectious diseases are caused by single-celled organisms: viruses, fungi, protozoa and bacteria. Invasive cause helminths and arthropods (multicellular animals).
Fish diseases may or may not be contagious. Non-communicable diseases are caused by chemical or physical damage. The reason for this is poor-quality care and conditions for keeping fish. Under bad care means:
- violation of the temperature regime;
- poor quality water;
- the entry of toxic substances into the aquarium;
- improper feeding;
- bad nutrition.
Physical damage is caused by setting up an aquarium. It is enough to provide pets with proper care and the likelihood of illness will be reduced.
Infectious diseases
The dosage of each drug is prescribed by a specialist. An increase in the rate or an improperly prepared solution will lead to death.
Non-communicable diseases
poor quality food and mechanical damage cause discomfort to aquarium fish. It is necessary to notice the first signs in time:
In case of any illness, be sure to monitor the cleanliness of the aquarium and check the food for freshness. Do not forget to take into account the change in the mood of the fish.
Preventive methods
It is easier to prevent diseases than to treat them in a neglected state. If you perform simple content rules, you can protect fish from diseases:
- weekly cleaning of the aquarium with the replacement of ¼ of the water volume;
- transplantation of excess individuals;
- cleaning of traumatic scenery;
- quality food 1 or 2 times a day;
- temperature regime of water, each species has its own;
- proper transportation of pets;
- use of a thermostat in winter;
- quarantine for newcomers;
- disinfection of everything that interacted with sick fish;
- quality drugs in the right dosage during treatment.
Care, timely care and complete food will protect your favorite fish from illness and injury. And regular cleaning of the aquarium will help to avoid many troubles.
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