Remember my post about sniper rifles, which caused a lot of discussion on the Internet, this one: How sniper rifles are made. That time, in the factory showroom, I noticed optical sights, some of which turned out to be domestically produced. I became curious, I found out the name of the company, got contacts and managed to get into a closed security area where they won’t let you take a camera unless there is special permission.
Today, especially for community readers, an exclusive report on how optical sights are made.
As I already said, the enterprise is located on the closed territory of a plant that used to produce something for the needs of the defense industry in a quiet town near Moscow. Initially, they didn’t want to let me into the enterprise with a camera; I had to call the production director of the company (where I was going to do a report) for help. He settled all the problems, but a security guard was assigned to us, who was supposed to make sure that I didn’t shoot my Nikon into the prohibited area (there seem to be other production facilities on the territory of the plant).
Olga and I (thanks to whom I got into production) found the lens production workshop in a state of relocation, so there was a little chaos here, but it did not greatly affect the production of lenses. Everything here went as usual. Lenses are made from such a glass cube in production; I will tell you how this is done later.
I immediately found an invoice for a batch of optical glass blanks from China. They are also called “presses”. Most lenses are made from Chinese raw materials. As the production master told me, previously the quality of Chinese “presses” left much to be desired, many blanks had to be rejected, but recently partners from the Middle Kingdom have begun to produce high-quality material.
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I asked why Chinese is preferred when there are domestic raw materials? It turned out that Russian glass is three times more expensive than Chinese glass, and their quality is practically the same. By the way, this is not ordinary glass from which sheets for windows are made, but special, optical glass, which contains various chemical compounds.
In addition, Russian glass comes in the form of such heavy cubes that need to be cut, turned into cylinders from blanks, etc.
And Chinese raw materials come ready for processing. In the photo you can see the entire range. Lenses of all diameters used for the production of optical sights and thermal imagers.
Let's go to the first workshop, here the lenses are polished.
The equipment is more than forty years old; it was bought from enterprises that went bankrupt in the post-Soviet era. Here it was repaired, modernized and now operates quite successfully in its previous mode.
We take the blank.
and place it on such a substrate.
At the first stage, such a nozzle with a diamond edge polishes the future lens.
The nozzle rotates, turns from side to side, and the substrate also does not stand still. All this time, the workpiece is watered with emulsol - a special solution with abrasives.
The wizard shows how this process occurs.
After grinding is completed, the workpiece is checked for convexity with a special tool - a spherometer, or that cup over there, which is called a “lapping tool”.
If it does not correspond to the norm, then everything repeats itself again.
Attachments for grinding lenses of various diameters.
Who wants some mints?)
The same glass cubes are cut on this machine.
This is a diamond-coated disk.
The resulting blanks look like pieces of ice. When cutting glass, pay attention to the bubbles that are sometimes present in those same glass cubes, and cut out perfectly clean blanks without any inclusions.
But lenses can only be made from such blanks; later we will see how this happens.
Here in the workshop there is a sharpening stone on which, if necessary, you can polish the workpiece.
The compacts have a larger diameter.
And this is a unique machine that was miraculously rescued from an enterprise that closed in the 90s. It can process lenses with a diameter of 25 cm. Nowadays such machines cannot be found. Of course, there are new foreign analogues, but they cost an order of magnitude more, about 50 thousand euros. And I got this one for almost nothing.
In this photo you can see what the cloudy pressing turns into at this stage. This is not a finished product yet; there are still many tests ahead for the lens.
But on this machine, blanks sawn from a glass cube are processed.
These washers are firmly glued to both ends of the glass blank with glue. Their diameter corresponds to the diameter of future lenses. After this, the workpiece with washers is fixed in a machine that processes it. The result is a cylinder, which in turn is cut into blanks, glass rounds. And the metal washers come off if you place the workpiece in a special oven.
After grinding, future lenses end up here.
They are glued with a special resin to metal blanks. Paint or varnish is applied to one side, and then resin, which, when hardened, sticks firmly to the lens; Vaseline is applied to the other side and glued to such a hemisphere.
Then they take the hemisphere with the lenses and turn it over into a heated metal blank. “Pschschsch” occurs and the resin with the lenses is glued to the blank.
This is all immediately placed in a bowl of water, the blank is cooled, the resin adheres firmly to it, and the hemisphere coated with Vaseline is easily removed.
This thing is awaiting the next stage of processing.
Here, already polished lenses are knocked off from another metal blank. This is done carefully so as not to damage the workpiece.
To soften the resin with the finished lenses, they are heated in an oven.
In the same room, residual resin is manually removed from the lenses.
And a visual check of the workpiece occurs. If there is something wrong with it, it will be rejected or end up back on the polishing line.
Let's move on to the next workshop. Of the entire tour of the enterprise, this place impressed me the most. On this table you can see both blanks with glued lenses and attachments with diamond heads that will polish the lenses.
Pay attention to the surface of some lenses; they are painted over so that they do not accidentally get scratched during transportation to this workshop.
These machines are designed for polishing small diameter lenses.
You see this black iron cane - a blank with lenses is attached to it. At the bottom there is a nozzle with diamond heads.
During the process, a special solution with abrasives flows from the middle of the nozzle. The polishing process itself lasts from 30 minutes to 4 hours.
And the work of these machines is mesmerizing, it seems that you are in some kind of fairy-tale workshop.
Another machine for piece goods.
Each attachment polishes just one small lens.
And here lenses of large diameters are polished.
The nozzle with diamond heads rotates from side to side, the blank with lenses rotates, the process is moistened with polarite - a polishing suspension that contains abrasives.
These machines were also purchased from the bankrupt enterprise. They were produced in 1968, but they were also modernized to new standards, almost all the filling was changed, one might say they breathed new life into them.
Then the polished surface is varnished
Why you ask? And then that resin will soon be applied to it and the other side will soon have to be polished.
It was as if flowers had opened their petals.
After polishing both sides of the lens, take acetone baths to get rid of all contaminants, including varnish or resin, if any particles remain on the product.
And this is the final product, although no, it’s an intermediate product, the lens has already been polished on both sides, but it is not completely ready yet.
This device checks whether the lens meets the thickness standards.
An employee of the company checks the cleanliness of the lens by eye. There should be no scratches or microcracks on it. For such work you need to have perfect vision, however, the work is also not easy, vision gradually deteriorates from constant stress.
Let's move on to the next workshop. Here the lenses are centered - the geometric axis is aligned with the optical axis.
This is also an old machine that has also been modernized by connecting it to a computer, almost making it a CNC machine.
The lens is fixed.
And the excess grinds off from its edges.
Then, as usual, quality control is carried out again, and so on at each stage.
To be continued
It is best to entrust the repair of an optical sight to a specialist, but if one is not nearby, we take matters into our own hands. This article will generally help you understand the structure of optical sights, learn how to disassemble them and carry out simple repair work. Please be patient and attentive - we are plunging into the precise world of optics.
Before we delve into the insides of the optical sight, let’s understand its technical structure. The sight consists of the following components:
- Lens. This is a complex system consisting of several lenses. One of the key parameters of a lens is aperture; it directly depends on its diameter. The outer lens is coated with an anti-reflective coating.
- Sighting reticle. Thanks to it, you aim your weapon accurately. The reticle is localized in the focal plane of your scope (ocular or objective). The simplest grids are half-cross and cross.
- Wrapping system. It consists of a pair of lenses that reverse the image, making the picture “straight”.
- Eyepiece. An enlarged direct image is fed to the eyepiece, thanks to which the shooter examines the target. In rifle scopes, the focal length of the eyepiece is about 50-70 mm. Often the eyepiece is equipped with a rubber eyecup.
- Mechanism for entering horizontal/vertical corrections. Combines two points - aiming and hitting. Two types of correction mechanisms are common - tactical drums and permanent correction devices. The drums are equipped with a scale along the axis of which the handwheel rotates. When adjusting, the arrow is guided by characteristic clicks.
- Illuminated aiming reticle. Modern sights are equipped with an LED that illuminates the central part or the entire reticle. Some scopes have a brightness adjustment that allows you to adjust the acceptable level of illumination.
- Frame. Usually the body of your optics is plastic, sometimes it is made of a lightweight and durable alloy. The housing connects the components of the sight into a common structure that is resistant to overloads that occur during shooting.
Disassembly
Before disassembling the scope, make sure you have the necessary tools and “accessories.” You will need:
- repair kit (set of flat screwdrivers);
- inexpensive transparent sealant (solvent-free);
- cotton buds;
- a clean cotton cloth;
- jars (for storing small bolts);
- flashlight.
As an example, consider disassembling the VOMZ-P model. You will encounter the following configuration:
- lens;
- eyepiece;
- lever;
- screw;
- lid;
- net;
- angular scale of lateral corrections;
- lens wrapping system;
- installation ring;
- aiming angle scale.
First you have to unscrew the lenses (back/front). The adjusting drums are screwed in until they stop (clockwise), then unscrewed together with the pressure washers. Then the pressure and locking bolts are unscrewed one by one. Half of the pipe is unscrewed. The cassette containing the adjustment lens is carefully squeezed out.
The lens is removed from the cassette (while trying not to touch the glass with your fingers).
The lens-turning system is localized in the remaining segment of the pipe. If desired, it is not difficult to unscrew it - the system is secured with one microbolt.
The structure is assembled in reverse order. Pay attention to the stained lenses - they should not be touched with your fingers. The lenses are wiped with one-sided movements (zero pressure).
Do-it-yourself scope repair - highlights
The time has come to study the mounting of the basic components of the optical sight. Please note that this is a fragile device, so you need to disassemble it with extreme caution. It starts to act up after about one and a half thousand shots. To prevent future problems, tighten the mounting screws and watch for horizontal alignment.
Attaching the lenses
Lenses for hunting weapons have a large diameter, designed for shooting at short distances (150-200 meters). Hunting optics have many rubbing surfaces that wear out over time. Backlashes, mechanical displacements and optical parallaxes occur.
The lenses are attached using sealant. After disassembling the sight according to our instructions, you reach the ring nut that holds the crosspiece. The next procedure is as follows:
- squeezing out the cassette (do not lose the pressure spring);
- unscrewing the front nut, lens and guide screws (2 pcs.);
- removing the adjustment lenses from the inner cylinder (this must be done carefully, without giving the cylinder a vertical position);
- remembering the location of the lenses;
- repair.
If the tuning lens (usually the front one) has a loose locking ring, the threads will have to be lubricated with sealant. After waiting for it to dry, reassemble the entire structure in reverse order.
Pressure spring
During repair operations, you will inevitably encounter a pressure spring, which you need not only to preserve, but also to ensure its functionality.
A little advice: you can unscrew the nuts (if you don’t have a repair kit at hand) with pointed tweezers.
Loose screws and nuts (if they do not tighten well) should be placed on sealant. Now the repaired structure, together with the spring, must be pushed back into the pipe - this is a rather labor-intensive process. One end of the spring should end with teeth, the other should be completely smooth.
If necessary (presence of jags), the second end of the spring must be sanded. The spring is installed in the central part of the sight - between the holes intended for the adjustment drums. The tube slides onto the cassette with the assembled lenses, while the spring must be held through the holes.
Lubrication
Not all parts and components of an optical sight require lubrication. And even more precisely, only the rings need this. It is highly undesirable for grease to get on the surface of the lens. For the lubrication procedure you will need:
Backlight repair
The basis for the illumination of the aiming reticle is an LED lamp. It is connected to the battery, but it receives energy not directly, but through a stabilizer. Repair activities need to begin with checking the stabilizer.
Having disassembled the microscopic power supply, take a closer look at the ballast resistor (capacitor). If the resistor burns out, it must be replaced. Sometimes the diodes in the rectifier also burn out - they should also be checked. The third potential problem is low-impedance current limiting resistors.
If the LED is made in Asia, it means that a primitive Chinese capacitor has burned out. Replace it with a new one and live in peace.
A brief overview of three models of the Lupold optical sight: VX-6, VX-R, Mark 4. Features of care and battery replacement, design and installation. What is the magnification factor for these models?
Elimination of reticle displacement
Modern optics use a luminous aiming mark with brightness adjustment. The brand illumination should turn off automatically after a certain time. This saves battery power, as many shooters forget to turn off the battery. In general, aiming marks are of the following types:
- stump;
- Mildot;
- PSO-1;
- Crosshair;
The aiming mark tends to shift due to recoil - this should not be allowed. Paradox: the mobility of the aiming mark is welcomed when zeroing a rifle. The brand is adjusted by turning the drum (you need to focus on the number of clicks). The offset scale varies depending on the scope model and manufacturer.
Having discovered a mark shift, it is worth examining the scope mount - did you do everything correctly? Proper installation guarantees long service life for your aiming system. You should not save money by purchasing cheap mounts - this is self-deception, leading to a loss of accuracy.
Adjustment
“Zeroing” the sight (adjustment) is the process of bringing together the mechanical and optical axes. The need for adjustment arises after purchasing a new sight - the shooter is not yet sure of the correct range set by the adjustment drums. The sequence of actions for adjustment is as follows:
- The vertical correction drum is turned all the way down, and the horizontal drum is turned all the way to the left.
- The vertical and horizontal drums are clicked (“up” and “right”, respectively). In this case, it is necessary to count the number of clicks over the entire range.
It is best to do this in splendid isolation - members of your household can throw off your mental calculations. In addition, a rifle occupying the kitchen table (on a special machine) is not the most positive sight for a wife.
- Let's assume that you are 300 clicks away from the extreme positions of the drum. Count halfway (in this example, 150 clicks). This is the middle of both ranges. The sight is “zeroed” - its optical and mechanical axes are combined.
To reduce the risk of repair work, protect your scope from bad weather - heat, humidity and direct sunlight. Cover the lenses with caps, avoid mechanical damage and contact of harmful substances (lubricants, alcohol solutions) on the lenses. Periodically (after 1000-1500 shots) check the internal fastenings. Have a good hunting!
The times when anyone could make a discovery in science are almost completely gone. Everything that an amateur can discover in chemistry, physics, biology has long been known, rewritten and calculated. Astronomy is an exception to this rule. After all, this is the science of space, an indescribably vast space in which it is impossible to study everything, and even not far from the Earth there are still undiscovered objects. However, in order to practice astronomy, you need an expensive optical instrument. Is a homemade telescope a simple or difficult task?
Maybe binoculars would help?
It is too early for a novice astronomer who is just beginning to take a closer look at the starry sky to make a telescope with his own hands. The scheme may seem too complicated for him. At first, you can get by with ordinary binoculars.
This is not as frivolous a device as it might seem, and there are astronomers who continue to use it even after becoming famous: for example, the Japanese astronomer Hyakutake, the discoverer of the comet named after him, became famous precisely for his addiction to powerful binoculars.
For the first steps of a novice astronomer - in order to understand whether this is mine or not - any powerful marine binoculars will do. The bigger, the better. With binoculars you can observe the Moon (in quite impressive detail), see the disks of nearby planets, such as Venus, Mars or Jupiter, and examine comets and double stars.
No, it's still a telescope!
If you are serious about astronomy and still want to make a telescope yourself, the design you choose may belong to one of two main categories: refractors (they use only lenses) and reflectors (they use lenses and mirrors).
Refractors are recommended for beginners: these are less powerful telescopes, but easier to make. Then, when you gain experience in making refractors, you can try to assemble a reflector - a powerful telescope with your own hands.
What makes a powerful telescope different?
What a stupid question, you ask. Of course - by magnification! And you will be wrong. The fact is that not all celestial bodies can, in principle, be enlarged. For example, you will not magnify the stars in any way: they are located at a distance of many parsecs, and from such a distance they turn into practically points. No approach is enough to see the disk of a distant star. You can only “zoom in” on objects in the solar system.
And the telescope, first of all, makes the stars brighter. And this property is responsible for its first most important characteristic - the diameter of the lens. How many times the lens is wider than the pupil of the human eye - that is how many times brighter all the luminaries become. If you want to make a powerful telescope with your own hands, you will have to look, first of all, for a very large diameter lens for the objective.
The simplest diagram of a refracting telescope
In its simplest form, a refracting telescope consists of two convex (magnifying) lenses. The first - the large one, aimed at the sky - is called the lens, and the second - the small one, into which the astronomer looks, is called the eyepiece. You should make a homemade telescope with your own hands exactly according to this scheme if this is your first experience.
The telescope lens should have an optical power of one diopter and a diameter as large as possible. You can find a similar lens, for example, in a glasses workshop, where glasses for glasses of various shapes are cut out of them. It is better if the lens is biconvex. If you don’t have a biconvex lens, you can use a pair of plano-convex half-diopter lenses, located one after the other, with their convex sides in different directions, at a distance of 3 centimeters from each other.
Any strong magnifying lens will work best as an eyepiece, ideally a magnifying glass in an eyepiece on a handle, such as those that were produced before. An eyepiece from any factory-made optical instrument (binoculars, geodetic instrument) will also work.
To find out what magnification the telescope will provide, measure the focal length of the eyepiece in centimeters. Then divide 100 cm (the focal length of a lens of 1 diopter, that is, a lens) by this figure, and get the desired magnification.
Secure the lenses in any durable tube (cardboard, coated with glue and painted on the inside with the blackest paint you can find will do). The eyepiece should be able to slide back and forth within a few centimeters; this is necessary for sharpening.
The telescope should be mounted on a wooden tripod called a Dobsonian mount. A drawing of it can be easily found in any search engine. This is the easiest to manufacture and at the same time reliable mount for a telescope; almost all homemade telescopes use it.
Good afternoon Today I would like to show you how to make an optical sight from binoculars. In fact, we will simply convert the binoculars into a monocle and install a crosshair inside. A simple, cheap and quite effective way to complement homemade pneumatics made from scrap materials.
To create such a sight, absolutely any binoculars are suitable (their devices are basically the same).
With a slight movement of the hand, we turn the binoculars into an elegant monocle.
First you need to disassemble the eyepiece. To do this, remove all the rubber bands and unscrew all the screws. By the way, the screws can not be unscrewed completely
We take out the eyepiece and unscrew the sleeve that presses the lenses to each other.
This eyepiece contains two lenses. We will place the crosshair after the second lens (now it is in front of you)
The difficulty is that the crosshair must be very thin and focused at infinity. This will have to be done manually. You need to find the distance at which any object placed behind the second lens becomes absolutely clearly visible through the eyepiece (and in a greatly enlarged version). Here we look through the eyepiece and bring a screwdriver to the opposite side. The crosshair should be placed at a distance from the second lens at which the screwdriver will become as clear as possible.
For example here
You need to make four cuts in the sleeve to get to the desired distance
The crosshair itself will be made from one fiber of synthetic rope. It is better to immediately take a black rope, but in extreme cases there is always a black marker.
We make slots in the sleeve and, in order not to overdo it, we check the result every half a millimeter.
In order to check the distance, we insert the fiber into the slots and clamp it with a piece of paper, cotton wool, or basically anything (you can even use chewing gum).
Now look through the eyepiece.
Clear? No. We continue to saw. I agree, the work is jewelry, but quite real. Now it’s clear!
Secure the result with second glue, not forgetting to slightly stretch the fibers.
Let's cut off the excess and finally assemble the eyepiece. Now the crosshair is visible even at a distance from the eyepiece
We put it back, tighten the screws and put on the rubber bands.
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