Every gardener, from beginner to professional, wants to grow beautiful lilies in his garden. Flowers that will delight with their flowering for many years.
To obtain abundant and long flowering, healthy and large bulbs and a favorable wintering of plants, you need to know the rules for the care, pruning and preparation for winter of these flowers. To improve growth, you will need to make special care for them.
Is pruning necessary after flowering
Many growers are sure that these flowers tolerate winter perfectly without any preparation, and there is no need to care for them. Maybe it is so. But such lilies are distinguished by fragile stems, small leaves and a meager short-lived flowering. Not the best option for a lover of exquisite flowers
Unfortunately, every garden has a colorful flowering period. The petals fall off, only the seed capsule and the trunk with leaves remain. The presence of such trunks, which are not distinguished by their beauty, forces many to take up the pruner. Faded lilies stand out especially if other plants are not blooming nearby (for example, Turkish carnation). Summer residents and gardeners have several opinions about whether pruning is needed and what to do next when the lilies have faded.
For this perennial, summer and even the beginning of autumn is the time to gain as much strength as possible. Throughout the summer, this plant strengthens and grows the bulb so that it does not freeze in winter. If you cut off the stems of a flower after flowering at the root, then the bulb will not gain enough strength for winter..
The fact is that green stems and leaves undergo photosynthesis both during and after flowering. This chemical process, which is produced by green plants, oxygenates the bulbs and roots of the perennial. It is photosynthesis that allows perennial plants to wait out the winter for a long time and successfully and delight caring gardeners with beautiful flowers all next summer. Therefore, pruning after flowering will not help the grower in any way to care for the plant..
Geranium, or as it is also called Pelargonium, is a perennial plant that blooms for a long time and magnificently. The flower has many medicinal properties and is practically not afraid of pests, which it repels with its specific smell. We meet geraniums not only in gardens and flower beds, but also on many window sills.
Due to its unpretentiousness and beautiful flowering, geranium has gained great popularity in our country. But to keep this beautiful flower compact and attractive. And it did not take half of the window sill, it is necessary to do timely pinching and cutting behind it (read how to care for geraniums at home in a pot to bloom, and from you you will learn about recommendations for caring for a flower in the open field). Using these simple geranium shaping tricks, you will achieve two important goals:
- Timely pinching will allow the plant to bloom beautifully and profusely.
- In addition, pinching and relieve the plant of sick and weak branches that slow down the growth and development of the flower.
Important! Pinching postpones the flowering time of geraniums, since the nutrients that should enter the upper growth point are spent on the formation of new lateral shoots.
Therefore, this procedure can be used as a regulator of the flowering time of a flower. You need to stop pinching the plant after it acquires the desired shape and bushiness.
The principle of plucking is to remove the growth point from which a new branch occurs. Simply put, the very top of the geranium stem is cut off. This procedure forces the trunk to sprout more and more, and the flower becomes more and more branched.
Pinching young pelargonium should be done several times a month, while the flower grows in growth and gains strength. Usually all leaves on the stem are removed, except for 5-6 of the largest and strongest leaves.
You can pinch the growth points in any months of the year, except for the winter months, when the plant needs to rest and should not be disturbed (you can find out how to care for home geraniums in winter).
How to conduct it correctly?
The algorithm of actions here is as follows:
- Before starting the pinching, carefully examine the upper shoots of the flower and find the growth point on them, the largest upper shoot bud, which is responsible for the active growth of the plant. If this point is not removed in time, the begonia will stretch in height, preventing the formation of side branches.
- When you find the main active kidney, pinch it off gently with your fingers or nails. On a denser, woody shoot, you can use nail clippers or garden pruning shears. When carrying out the procedure, make sure that the neighboring young leaves do not wrinkle, and try not to break the main stem of the shoot.
- After pinching, the shoot does not stop growing in height completely, and after a while it will begin to stretch again. But thanks to pinching, the lateral buds will have time to open and sprout new shoots.
- Remember that removing the top shoot will cause nearby dormant buds to wake up. Therefore, if you do not want the emergence of shoots in these places, the buds have awakened. After the first shoots appear, they must also be carefully removed.
Important points:
- When working, use only clean, alcohol-treated tools. Pruning shears or scissors should be well sharpened so as not to unnecessarily injure the flower. Hands must be washed thoroughly so as not to infect the geranium with any disease.
- If the pinching is carried out with nails, without using a tool, the shoots cannot be pulled too much, as this will injure the plant.
- After the end of all procedures, the flower should be placed in a warm, sunny place. Young shoots need plenty of light to grow quickly and vigorously.
- If unhealthy, infected shoots appear on the plant, they must be immediately removed from the 3-4 cm part of the healthy trunk.
- The pinching points must be treated with disinfecting substances: alcohol, brilliant green or charcoal ash. Otherwise, the cut sites will begin to dry out, and pelargonium can get sick.
What to do to make the bush grow thicker?
On a note. In order for the geranium to grow into a lush bush, its apical bud on the main shoot above the stem node must be pinched.
This stimulates the growth of lateral buds at the lower nodes of the stem. After this event, the seedlings will slow down their growth, but will begin to gain strength. Geraniums will eventually develop a beautiful spherical shape due to the appearance of a large number of lateral stems.
How to prevent the flower from stretching too far up?
So that the geranium does not stretch out in growth, the pinching should be done at the most important top point of the stem formation. If, after this procedure, the shoots start growing again from the upper axils of the leaves, they must be removed, then allowed to grow a little and pinched again. The buds are removed during this time so that the flower gives all its strength only to the growth of lateral shoots.
What to do for a lush bloom?
Only young shoots bloom in geraniums. Therefore, in order for it to develop rapidly and bloom magnificently, young shoots must be pinched after the formation of the first 4-5 pairs of the first leaves. As a result, the remaining strong shoots will begin to actively grow and develop, turning into a lush crown with many flowers.
Features for seed-grown pelargonium
Grown geraniums from seeds need to begin to pinch over 6-8 leaves. This leaves only axillary shoots growing below the uppermost pair of leaves. If, after pinching, shoots begin to reappear in the axils of the upper leaves, they must be removed immediately, otherwise new shoots will not begin to grow in the lower axils.
Photo
Below you can see step-by-step photos of the process of pinching geraniums.
Possible errors and their correction
When pinching geraniums, a very important condition must be observed. You cannot pinch all the upper shoots at once, some of them must be left intact. The role of these shoots is that they will take up the bulk of the nutrients, preventing these new shoots from appearing prematurely.
But if you still unsuccessfully removed more high points than you need, do not be discouraged.
Reference. Remove new shoots by burning these places with brilliant green until the upper buds reappear in the right places.
What to do after pinching?
With regular pinching of shoots and buds, geranium is actively growing and developing. Due to this, the color especially needs constant feeding with growth stimulants and a full range of mineral fertilizers (read about when and how to feed geraniums, and from you you will learn how to properly use iodine with hydrogen peroxide to feed a flower). With a lack of nutrition, the plant will begin to put out many thin stems that weaken the plant.
... With the aesthetic side of the issue, everything is clear: faded, half-flown, inflorescences that have lost their shape do not decorate a flower bed. But this is not the only problem.Flowering worsens
A living organism is characterized by the desire to leave offspring. When seeds are formed in the place of a flower, it is they that become a priority for the plant, it is on them that the maximum energy is spent. Plucking withering flowers, we stimulate the plant to form new buds, new flower stalks. Well, if the fruits were formed, the seeds began to ripen, this often serves as a signal: the program is completed, there is no need for flowers anymore, all the strength is for the continuation of the race.
Once flowering plants (for example, others), with timely pruning of wilting inflorescences, are able to bloom again at the end of the season. In (and most other flowering shrubs), pruning lays the foundation for good flowering next season. If you are not lazy to remove wilted flowers, the plant will bush better and bloom more abundantly. This procedure prolongs the flowering period.
Diseases develop
Not necessarily, yes. In hot weather, wilting flowers instantly dry out and usually do not pose a threat to the health of the plant. But in a rainy summer, dying inflorescences often rot, become limp from excess moisture and can serve as a favorable environment for the reproduction of pathogenic microflora.
Resources are wasted
And flowering, and (even more so!) The formation of fruits and seeds requires the expenditure of nutrients and water. By timely removing all unnecessary, unnecessary, we help the plant to save resources, spend them rationally. From this point of view, it is better to cut off wilting inflorescences in a timely manner, without waiting for them to completely dry out.Self seeding possible
If wilted flowers are not removed or pruned too late, some plants may self-seize abundantly. If such spontaneous reproduction is not included in your plans, cut off the fading inflorescences in time. They actively reproduce by self-sowing, Turkish carnation, some types of ornamental onions and other crops.When and how to trim
In plants with soft, thin stems, wilting flowers can simply be pinched off with your fingers. But in most cases, it is still more convenient to use pruning shears or garden shears for pruning - it is easier to remove the excess without damaging the remaining shoots.
What exactly to cut off - the plant itself will tell you: each has its own structure, and therefore, its own peculiarities of pruning. For example, in delphinium, aquilegia and other cultures that form tall peduncles, they are cut out at the base; in petunias, pinch off the shoot directly under the wilted flower; peduncles and cut over the first leaf.
When to prune depends on the characteristics of the plant and on your capabilities. If you come to the dacha only on weekends, daily inspection of flower beds is clearly not your case. It happens that for some reason it is not possible to carry out pruning even once a week.
Yes, that's not good. But it's always better to focus on what you can do than to suffer because you can't change anyway. Remove wilted flowers as often as your conditions permit. If there is very little time for caring for flower beds, plant those crops for which rare or untimely pruning is not critical. Remember: we plant a garden so that it pleases us, and not in order to add problems to ourselves.
Is it possible to do without cropping?
Can. But not always. For example, the inflorescences of many (ornamental onions) remain attractive for a very long time even after the flowers have faded. They can not be removed until the seeds ripen - when the capsules darken and crack, and the peduncle begins to dry out.In their own way, the panicles of faded astilbe are attractive - we will remove them in the fall, when we prune perennials for the winter. Some do not need to rush, for example, erythematosus or ornamental cereals.
In and in winter bouquets, fluffy balls remaining after flying around the petals are used - seed pods on high peduncles. In a lunar (lunaria), flowers are generally not of particular interest - decorative translucent partitions left over from fully ripened fruit-pods.
Lunar, or lunaria- beautiful not in bloom, but after ripening of fruits
In the autumn garden, dry inflorescences of some plants can even play a solo part. Do not rush to crop them - read the article first. If we need plant seeds, wilted flowers, of course, we do not cut
At the end of the season, we will stop removing the withering flowers of calendula, and other plants that we want to propagate with our seeds. But be careful, if you do not want self-sowing propagation - collect ripe seeds on time.
As you can see, there are many options to minimize the mandatory pruning of wilted inflorescences. If there is no time for this laborious procedure, choose crops that do not require regular care. When planning flower beds, always take into account the nuances of caring for the selected plants and correlate them with your capabilities - then your garden will always be beautiful and well-groomed, and you do not have to waste time and effort.
For alpine slides, large flower beds, mixborders and individual group plantings, for cutting and making bouquets, large-flowered flax will be an amazing bright discovery for you. Growing from seed is simple and has a high success rate.
Large-flowered flax: description
It is with decorative flowers, belonging to the Flax genus from the Flax family. It reaches a height of 110 cm, but most often the growth is limited to 30-60 cm. The stem of flax is erect, branched. Leaves sessile, alternate arrangement, lanceolate shape with pointed tips. Bright flowers form an inflorescence scutellum, which has a fairly loose structure. The natural habitat is the northwestern part of the African continent (Algeria). Flax was introduced into the culture in 1820, and since then it has been actively cultivated as an annual.
Large-flowered flax: cultivation
If desired, a beautiful perennial plant can be grown from small seeds. Flax has an unpretentious character, is resistant to cold, even tolerates light frosts. It is preferable to choose sunny, well-lit areas for it. It will grow on any poor garden soil, but preferably without moisture stagnation. On the territory of Russia with cold climatic conditions, we recommend choosing exactly large-flowered flax. Growing from seeds is very simple. Germination rate is almost 100%, and the plant spreads up to the taiga zone.
Before planting, the site must be dug up, it is recommended to add humus or compost (3-4 kg per 1 square meter). And also a tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Then mix everything thoroughly and smooth with a rake. It is best to shed the soil well and leave it for a couple of days, and only then start planting. This can be done in two ways: seedlings or directly into the ground. Choose the one that suits you best.
Flax (red) large-flowered cultivation from seed to seedlings
Sowing is recommended in mid-April, as the plant develops quickly enough. Use lightweight soil that is permeable to air and moisture. Pour it into small boxes in an even layer of 5-8 cm and moisten with a spray bottle. Do not bury the seeds, but carefully scatter them over the surface, sprinkle them with soil with a layer of 1 cm on top. It is best to make a small greenhouse and close the box with polyethylene. Be careful with waterlogging - this is what large-flowered flax does not like. Growing from seeds (photo) is a fairly quick process, seedlings will appear in 7-10 days. As soon as the seedlings have the first pair of true leaves, they should be dived into separate pots, about 7 cm in diameter and the same depth. Flax has a strong rod-type root system, so we recommend not to tighten with planting. The further you go, the more difficult it will be to separate the plants from each other without damaging them.
Sowing seeds in the ground
This method also has a right to exist and is simple. You can sow seeds in early spring (April-May) or late autumn, which is called before winter. Prepare the soil in advance, in the manner already mentioned above. Then make neat grooves at a distance of 10-15 cm, 4-5 cm deep. Pour them thoroughly with water. Do not press the seeds, but only spread them in an even layer and sprinkle on top with a small amount of soil. When shoots appear, they must be thinned out, leave a distance of 5-8 cm between the plants.
Basic rules for flax care
If you want, as they say, to plant a plant and forget, then choose large-flowered flax (Rubrum). Growing seedlings from seeds or directly in the ground will not cause difficulties, and care is even easier.
- Choose light soils without stagnant moisture and cold drafts.
- The plant is resistant to heat, so additional watering is required only in case of extremely dry summers.
- During the season, make 2-3 additional fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers, and the plant will delight you with lush flowering.
- Flowerbeds where flax grows must be weeded, like any others.
- After rain and watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil so that a crust does not form, especially on heavy soils.
What other plants for the "lazy" can you plant in the garden?
There is not always time to take care of the garden and flower beds, but everyone wants to have their own fragrant corner on the site. Someone will say that this does not happen, and any plant requires attention. Of course, this is so, but the degree of care and its thoroughness differ. If you rarely visit the country, then not only large-flowered flax will suit you. Growing some other species from seeds will also come in handy. Pay attention to the openwork gypsophila. A perennial plant will cover the ground with an even carpet. You can also use an annual analogue - graceful gypsophila, it grows quickly and blooms luxuriantly.
Our traditional cornflower is simple and charming at the same time. Now many varieties have been bred, not only with blue color, but also white, pink, purple. In addition, the plant will delight you with a double wave of flowering - June and September.
We recommend choosing for the site fragrant Iberis or Matthiola, toadflax, alissum, braiding everything with an even cloth, calendula (not only pleasant, but also useful), nasturtium for both horizontal and vertical gardening, morning glory.
If you need an easy-to-care, but spectacular and unusual plant, look at the bright and cheerful large-flowered flax. Growing from seeds at home will help you get high-quality seedlings and plants that are stronger by the time they are planted in the ground.
Flax blooms from June to September. Flower pots with annual flax can be filled with different varieties with pink and red flowers or a blue-flowered look. Yellow flax will become the highlight of the rock garden.
Annual flax, or cultivated (Npit usitatissirnum) is one of the world's oldest cultivated plants. People have been cultivating it since the Stone Age. Linseed fabric was obtained from flax stalks, flaxseed oil was squeezed out of seeds, the waste went to livestock feed. In addition, people ate baked flax stalks. Flax was also used for medicinal purposes.
Growth pattern
Flax is a plant with a thin, but very densely leafed stem. Depending on the species, flax can be of a variety of sizes - from small Linum salsolaides with a height of only 15 cm, which blooms with beautiful blue flowers, to Narbonne flax (Linum narbonense), reaching as much as 60 cm in height. Both of these species are perennials.
Medium-sized plants include yellow flax (Linum flavum) - a perennial with golden yellow flowers that blooms in the second half of summer (height 30-45 cm) and annual large-flowered flax (Linum grandiflorum) 38-45 cm high with narrow leaves and bright flowers different shades of red and pink, which appear from June to August. Flax (Linum usitatissirnum), which is a cultivated plant, also belongs to annuals. It is used to this day to obtain flax.
Cuttings
Perennial flax species are propagated by cuttings in summer. Choose young shoots that are lignified only at the very base. Lateral shoots 15 cm long are cut out at their junction with the main shoot (with the heel). Remove the lower leaves and plant the cutting vertically in the ground, deepen to the first leaf. Cut the top of the stem so that the seedling is 5 cm high. Cover the pot with the stem with plastic wrap. When the cuttings are rooted, transplant them into separate pots.
Seed reproduction
1. Annual flax species are propagated by seeds, which are sown in March or April. In March, sow the seeds of the plant in a box or greenhouse. Sow them in damp compost soil. Cover the box with plastic wrap, cover the greenhouse with a lid and place it in a warm and bright room. Maintain temperature between 15-18 ° C
2. Flax seeds will sprout in two weeks. When the second pair of true leaves appears on young plants, they can be dived into separate flower pots. Plants are taken out into the street after the danger of return frosts has passed.
Care
This is a sun-loving plant that tolerates dry air well and is not at all demanding on the soil. Water the potted plants regularly, as the soil in the flower pots dries out very quickly in hot weather. If necessary, perennial flax species are transplanted into permeable compost soil in the spring.
Seat selection
Linen prefers bright and sunny places, but also tolerates light shading well. In summer, flax tolerates the temperatures that are typical for this season. Annual flax species are flowering plants whose life cycle fits into one season, they die off in the fall. That is why annual flax varieties need to be sown annually.
Watering and feeding
Water flax regularly in the spring and summer. Watering should be abundant enough. Potted species should be watered at least twice a week, and on particularly hot days, plants should be watered even more frequently. During an active growing season, regularly feed flax with complex fertilizers. Feed the plants every two weeks. Dilute fertilizer in irrigation water.
Varieties
Annual species are inexpensive. These plants bloom very quickly. Large-flowered flax (L. grandiflorum) "Blue Dress" is a plant with light blue flowers. L. grandiflorum "Rubrum" is a red-flowered cultivar. Plants of the Charmer line are distinguished by beautiful flowers with a dark eye. You can opt for a mixture of varieties or hybrids, for example, "Charmer Salmon". Flax yellow is a perennial with yellow flowers.
L. grandiflorum "Rubrum"
Flax yellow
Purchase
Seeds are bought in early spring. Saplings appear in late spring. Choose the strongest and healthiest seedlings. There are annual types of flax (red and pink), they die off in the fall. Perennials (yellow and blue) can be grown for several years. Flax seeds are quite cheap.
Possible problems
Spots on the leaves
Gray spots on the stems and leaves of a plant are a sign of flax infection with gray mold. This fungal disease appears when the air is too humid. All affected parts of the plant must be cut off and burned. The plants themselves must be treated with a suitable fungicidal preparation.
Aphid
Despite the fact that flax is a fairly resistant plant to pest infestation, aphids can sometimes appear on it. Most often, aphids appear on plants growing outdoors in late spring or early autumn. First, remove the pests from the plant, and then treat the flax with soapy water and a little alcohol. Repeat this procedure after a week. If the plant is very severely affected by aphids, it is recommended to use a suitable insecticide.
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