Glasses are not only a decoration, but also a necessity for many people with vision problems. Their most fragile parts are the arms, which often break. We present to your attention a method through which you can now easily make glasses at home.
Necessary materials
Dark veneer for frame (2 pieces 50x30)
Light veneer for interlayer (3 pieces 50x30)
Wooden block (approximately 50x30 cm)
Epoxy resin
Vise
Sandpaper
Spring clips (2 pieces)
Jigsaw
Varnish
If you look closely at the frame of the glasses, you will see that it is slightly curved. To make the frame look like this, you need to draw a slightly curved straight line on a wooden block and carefully divide it into two parts along the line using a saw. You will get two bars: one concave on one side, and the other convex. All these parts are well sanded and sealed with tape.
Make a frame from veneer. To do this, 3 light pieces of veneer are laid together one on top of the other, and dark ones on top and bottom.
All parts are well glued with epoxy resin.
Thus, the future frame will be layered.
To prevent the layered veneer from coming apart, you should place it in a bag and wrap it tightly with tape. Then lay the veneer in parts of the timber and clamp it in a vice. Allow to dry completely.
Excess glue should be removed and sanded on all sides with sandpaper.
Place the old glasses frame against the veneer and secure with spring clips. It is necessary to trace all the contours of the glasses with a pencil.
Using a jigsaw, cut out a new frame along the pencil lines.
The holes into which the glasses will be inserted should be sanded.
The temples of the glasses can be made from any small wooden block, 1-1.5 cm thick. To do this, you need to trace the old temples with a pencil and cut along the contours with an electric jigsaw.
By personal fitting, determine the angle of inclination of the arms in relation to the frame of the glasses. Then mark with a pencil, draw a line and cut with a jigsaw.
It is necessary to make locks that will connect the temples and frame of the glasses. To do this, draw the convex parts of the lock on the arms and the holes for them on the frame. Using a hacksaw, carefully cut.
Then connect the arms to the frame.
Coat all wooden parts with varnish.
There are not many things in the world that have remained virtually unchanged since their invention. Glasses are one of these items.
Glasses were apparently invented in Italy in the 13th century. The estimated year of invention is 1284, and the creator of the first glasses is considered to be Salvino D'Armate (Italian), although there is no documentary evidence for this data. Since then, glasses have become firmly established in the lives of many people. The production of glasses has changed significantly. So I wondered how Now they are making glasses for vision. For permission to film the production process, I turned to the management of the Chameleon company, who met me and gave me the go-ahead to film...
Just as any theater begins with a hanger, so any production begins with a warehouse. 
This is exactly what blanks for lenses look like, which after processing will take up space in the frame 
Previously, mostly glass was used for lenses (in the first glasses they used quartz and crystal because they could not yet obtain high-quality glass), now high-quality plastic is increasingly used. Plastic is lighter, cheaper and has more processing capabilities 
Now the choice of lenses is very large - there are tinted and gradient lenses, coated lenses, etc. and so on. For every taste and color 
But let's return to the production chain. After you have chosen the frame for the lenses and the lenses themselves. The manufacturing process begins 
The Dioptrimeter comes into play first. 
Lensmeter Tomey TL-100 (Japan) allows you to measure any lens; the device records the refractive power of the glass and expresses it quantitatively - in diopters
Next, the technician scans the frame and combines the lens and frame data. All this is done on the Essilor Kappa Ultimate Edition lens processing system
The photo shows the frame scanning process 
In the process of high-precision scanning of the frame, absolutely all parameters are determined: shape, base curvature, as well as the profile of the bevel groove in the frame, which, in the end, is a decisive factor in calculating the size of the finished lens. Using the high-precision frame scanning feature, the finished lens after processing will perfectly fit the frame, without any additional “fitting”. 
After scanning the frame, the master places the lens blank into the centering chamber, where it is completely automatic. The system will determine the optical center of the lens, its refraction, cylinder axis, progressive lens marking or bifocal segment. .
The outline of the scanned frame and the lens in the centering chamber are clearly visible on the monitor 
After receiving all the necessary data, the lens is placed in a processing (turning) machine, which operates on the basis of an EAS cycle. 
Thanks to this cycle, the machine automatically selects the clamping force of the lens and the force of its pressure on the wheels during the entire processing cycle. 
Processing time is no more than 1 minute 
+
and we receive a finished lens, machined to the size of the frame. 
This is how glasses are made literally in 10-20 minutes. Most of the time is spent on choosing suitable frames and lenses because... The selection of these products is very, very large.... 
Have sharp eyesight. 
Thank you for your attention. I hope you enjoyed it. I express my gratitude to the management of the company "Chameleon Optical Salons Chain" for the opportunity to conduct the shooting
-If you use photographs for non-commercial purposes, do not forget to put an active link to my magazine.
-All photographs posted in this magazine are my authorship, unless otherwise stated.
It's hard to find a person who doesn't have a pair of glasses at home, at least dark ones. Many of them gather dust in drawers and are not worn by their owners due to the purchase of new models. Don’t rush to throw away your “old” friends, because even ordinary glasses can be decorated using the simplest and most inexpensive tools and materials. In this way, you can update a worn-out frame that has served you faithfully for several years, or (an option for the brave) make the glasses you just purchased unique.
So, we present to you 10 ideas for decorating glasses!
Regular glasses + two-color polish
You will need:
Nail polish in two colors;
- narrow masking tape;
1. Use a strip of masking tape to separate the half of the glasses that will be painted a different color.
2. Apply varnish to one half of the first color. Leave for 20 minutes.
3. Remove a strip of masking tape and varnish the other half of the glasses.
Turning regular glasses into cat eyes
Or you can make glasses like JLo by gluing silver sparkling “ears”:
Beaded glasses
You will need:
Beads;
- glue.
Glasses decorated with beads
You will need:
Half beads (you can buy them in stores that sell everything for creativity);
- glue.
"Friday" glasses with sparkles
You will need:
Sequins (creativity stores will tell you what they are) and sparkles;
- glue;
- parchment for baking;
- pencil.
1. Draw the shape of the frame on baking paper. Apply glue generously and sprinkle with glitter. Leave it for a while.
2. Cut out a glitter frame from baking paper.
3. Glue the paper frame onto the regular one.
Happy Friday!
Glasses with buttons
You will need:
- glue;
- buttons.
Carefully glue buttons of different sizes onto the frame.
Glasses decorated with flowers
You will need:
Glue;
- paper or fabric flowers.
Glue flowers into the corner of the frame, just don’t overdo it with the number of flowers. These glasses will be a great addition to a light summer dress.
Glamor glasses
You will need:
Glasses with removable lenses;
- lace;
- a thread of sequins;
- glue;
- golden ceramic paint (can be replaced with nail polish).
1. Cover the temples of the glasses with a thread of sequins. It is better to take glue that does not harden instantly. Otherwise, the slightest mistake can ruin your glasses.
2. We cut out a square of lace that will be slightly larger than the lens, so that there is fabric left for the hem.
3. We take the glass out of the frame and apply glue along its contour. Glue the lace, tucking it inward. We insert the glass into the frame and trim the lace from the inside.
4. Apply stripes and dots to the frame with gold paint.
Glasses with bright temples
You will need:
Self-adhesive or regular colored paper;
- glue (if the paper is regular);
- scissors.
Draw the frame of the glasses on paper and cut it out. Carefully place it on the temple of the glasses, trim if necessary, and glue.
Using this method, you can not only decorate your glasses, but also hide some frame defects.
Spiked glasses
These glasses look very cool, and the cost of making them is minimal.
You will need:
Glue;
- tips from ordinary ballpoint pens;
- rhinestones (optional).
Carefully glue the pen tips onto the frame. You can additionally decorate your glasses with rhinestones in the corners of the glasses.
Any person who regularly uses glasses has encountered some kind of trouble with them. From a loose screw holding the ear hook to the frame to a broken frame. And if even a child can handle the first one, then in all other cases the advice of experienced people, certain equipment and tools, as well as skills in working with this tool will be required. What tools and equipment will be required for repairs, tips for repairing a particular part of a glasses frame will be discussed below.
First, I would like to dwell on the reasons for the occurrence of certain breakdowns. Typically, there are two reasons:
- The first is the natural wear and tear of parts due to their long-term use.
- The second is the impact of brute physical force on the frame. He dropped it and stepped on it. I didn’t notice and sat on them. You put it in your inner pocket and you were pressed in the crowd, among public transport passengers.
It is quite possible for a home craftsman to fix most of the damage that occurs to the frame itself.
To repair the frame, you may need the following tools and materials:
- watch screwdriver, pocket knife;
- small pliers, miniature vice;
- electric drill, electric soldering iron;
- universal glue;
- fishing line 0.3 mm.
The frame of glasses can be made of metal or plastic. The similarities in their repair end with restoring the functionality of the hinge. So let's start with it.
The holes in the hinge are loose, the screw is lost
Most often, the holes in the hinge become loose, where the screw that secures the ear hook to the frame is inserted. It even happens that such a screw is lost. It is unlikely that such a trifle can be found in stock. Although a thrifty owner can hide either its analogue from glasses that cannot be restored, or look where such screws can be found. For example, in a broken calculator. If it turns out that the thread is knocked down, it can be restored by screwing in a screw of a slightly larger diameter. Being made of a harder metal it will restore the knocked threads and the hinge will hold tight.
For greater reliability, the end of this screw can be riveted. If it was not possible to find a suitable screw, then there is only one way out. Pick up a piece of copper or steel wire, insert it into the eyes, cut off both ends leaving a margin of 0.3-0.5 mm and rivet both ends using a small hammer. A brass pin with a head at one end d=0.3-0.5mm works well. When riveting the opposite end, it will flatten and give this part of the hinge a neat appearance.
The arc of the lens window cracked
This happens with plastic frames. The problem can be solved by taking the most obvious route at first glance - gluing the frame's temple back together at the split point. But! Finding super glue is quite difficult. You also need to remember that a large load occurs at the rupture site. Therefore, experts advise reducing the load by gluing the lens along the entire perimeter of the window before gluing the fracture site.
For a more reliable bonding of the frame itself and the lens with it, tie this place tightly for a while with a strong thread or fishing line. This method is very suitable if the frame is broken in two places. Before applying glue to its ends, cover the plastic lens with tape on both sides. This glue contains a solvent that can damage the lens. After the glue has dried, clean and sand the junction of the broken parts.
If scratches are noticeable, you can cover the area with a thin layer of clear nail polish. The joint will be reliable if the broken parts of the frame are hot welded. The characteristics of plastic allow this to be done. But the melted joint will look sloppy. It will be very difficult to give them a marketable appearance.
Glass pops out when you turn your head suddenly
This is typical for glasses with thin metal frames. There may be two reasons for this.
Or the screw connecting the two parts of the lens window has become loose. In this case, it will be enough to tighten the screw all the way with a clock screwdriver and flare the opposite end. Or the frame, made of thin metal, is bent and in this form is not able to hold the lens in place. Here you need to disassemble the frame and use the lens as a blank to straighten the frame along its contour. This work must be carried out as carefully as possible. Metal, as a rule, is very thin; frequent and sharp bending of it can lead to irreversible consequences. After which, since the lens has been removed from the frame, you can place it on glue for reliability, tighten it with screws and quickly remove excess glue.
ATTENTION! Expert advice. After disassembling the frame, clean the inner perimeter of the lens windows from any dirt that has accumulated there while using the glasses.
The frame is split in half at the bridge of the nose
Immediately before work, you need to prepare some equipment. First of all, make the so-called conductor. This is a thin wooden plate with a length slightly less than the width of the glasses and a width equal to the height of the frame. To avoid scratching the lenses, wrap this plate with a thin, soft cloth. You can use a wooden ruler for this.
During the work, you will need a drill with a drill of the smallest possible diameter. You need to think about how to secure it motionless. In this case, your hands will be free to do other work. Before starting work, thoroughly degrease the broken area on both halves of the frame.
One half of the frame is fixed to the conductor using a regular rubber band. The second half is pressed tightly against the first and fixed in exactly the same way.
Before you start gluing, you need to make sure that all parts are securely fastened and will not move during the work. After this, apply glue to the fracture site, making sure that no air bubbles form. Then remove excess glue and leave the glasses alone for a while to let the glue dry.
The next step is to select the optimal distance in both halves of the frame near the fracture site and drill two through holes from the upper ends of the frame. An ordinary thread 120 cm long, folded in half, is inserted into one of them using a needle. Then this thread is threaded into the second hole, then it is pulled back into the first. This procedure is repeated two to three times. The diameter of the drilled hole will no longer allow. The thread is stretched as tightly as possible with each turn. The remaining ends are pulled apart in different directions and secured with tape to the temples of the glasses. The threads that act as a bandage are coated with glue.
ATTENTION! Expert advice. Some people advise cleaning the broken area with sandpaper. It's hardly worth doing this. After all, it’s a fracture, not a smooth cut. The coincidence of the teeth and cavities of the fracture will contribute to a stronger connection of both parts of the frame.
Following this, one of the ends of the thread is removed from the temple of the glasses and carefully, firmly, turn to turn, obliquely wound to the gluing site. Having fixed this thread at the opposite end of the bandage, fasten its turns together by filling them with glue. Next, the same operation is performed with the second end of the thread. In this case, the bevel goes in the opposite direction.
This cross-shaped winding makes the connection more durable. In both cases, you need to make two or three such layers of winding, not forgetting to soak each layer with glue.
The part of the hinge joint pressed into the frame is broken
First of all, using side cutters and a file, you should get rid of the remnants of the hinge element fused into the frame. Or, after thoroughly heating this fragment with a powerful soldering iron, remove it from the frame with tweezers and sand the free space.
Then, from a copper or steel wire with a diameter corresponding to the size of the eyelet of the hinge element remaining in the temple, bend a loop with an internal diameter equal to the screw securing the hinge elements. After selecting the desired diameter of the resulting loop, use miniature pliers with round jaws to give the workpiece the appearance of the Greek letter omega.
The next step is to install the resulting hinge element in place. Grab the resulting workpiece with miniature tweezers, press it at the installation site and heat it with a powerful soldering iron. During the heating process, the loop will gradually deepen into the frame to the desired depth. When the desired depth is reached, the soldering iron is removed, the plastic hardens, and the loop is firmly fixed in the frame.
Finishing work remains. Irregularities formed during the process of attaching the lugs can be removed using the same soldering iron. Sand the area with fine-grained sandpaper. The shine lost after sanding can be restored with clear nail polish.
The temples come apart and the glasses don't fit well on your face.
The reasons for the discrepancy between the temples for metal and plastic eyeglass frames are different. There is only one thing in common - the holes in the hinge joints have become loose after long use. The elimination of these shortcomings was discussed in paragraph one. When using glasses with plastic frames, one of the reasons for the divergence of the temples is that the edges are erased at the points of contact with the frame. As a result, the angle of divergence of the temples exceeds the established 100 degrees.
Here you can solve the problem if you restore the worn-out part of one of the surfaces by fusing or gluing a thin layer of plastic onto it. You can use glue, which after drying will acquire a certain hardness. Then carefully sand these inserts, adjusting them to the desired size in thickness.
Of course, when applying these inserts, you should not cut them to the exact area. They can be adjusted after finishing the work on gluing the inserts. Metal frames have different ways of attaching the temples to the frame. There are those when the temple is attached to a bracket that is integral with the frame.
It happens that under the influence of brute force these brackets can be bent in any direction. In this case, they can be returned to their original position using miniature pliers.
Broken temple at the back
Temples break only in cases where a metal rod is not used as a base. As a rule, such earhooks are made of fairly thick plastic. Therefore, you can connect the broken parts using a thread bandage according to the method described above.
Considering the width and thickness of the temple, part of it can be ground off with a needle file in order to apply a bandage into the resulting groove. In this case, it will not stand out much on the surface of the earhook.
Another way is to drill holes in the center of both fragments into which a metal pin 15 - 20 mm long can be inserted. After using this pin, both parts of the earhook are joined, lubricate the junction with superglue.
The frame is bent outward and the glasses do not fit well on the face; the temples are bent into an arc
The plastic frame and temples can only be bent when exposed to high temperatures. They are elastic enough to maintain their bending shape under the influence of force. This means that you can give them their previous shape in the same way - heat them and bend them to their original position. You can heat it to the desired softness in hot water - boiling water using a pair of pliers. The plastic from which the glasses are made lends itself well to heating and this operation is usually successful.
After the part to be repaired has warmed up sufficiently, remove it from the water. Place the earhook on a flat surface and press down with something heavy until it cools completely. Give the frame the desired bend and hold it in this position with your hands until it cools completely. It can only bend at the place of the jumper between the lens windows. This is where your main efforts should be made.
Deformations of metal frames and temples can be corrected by mechanical action with pliers or simply with your hands.
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