growth factors

Text: Tiina Orasmäe-Meder, cosmetologist, developer of Meder Beauty Science

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Mysterious growth factors have become one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetology in recent years. Any mention of them - "cream with growth factor", "eyelash gel with growth factor" - makes the product more popular, according to marketers. However, not only potential buyers of cosmetics, but also many cosmetologists do not understand very well what these factors are and what they are able to build up. And most importantly, why is it good?

The first substance called a growth factor was discovered by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in 1952. After transplanting an extra limb into a chicken embryo, they found that the embryo had extra nerve endings around the graft. Then they transplanted mouse tumor cells into the same unfortunate embryo, and sensitive nerve endings appeared already in the tumor! The extract isolated from the tumor was called the growth factor: NGF (nerve growth factor) - the growth factor of the nervous tissue. In 1959, another nerve growth factor was isolated from snake venom, and in 1962 the first epidermal growth factor was discovered - it was found in the submandibular gland of a mouse. The researchers even received the Nobel Prize for their discovery - however, only in 1986. To date, dozens of different growth factors have been discovered, and their number continues to increase. Biologists believe that growth factors marked the beginning of a new era in cell biology and significantly changed the views on the processes occurring in the human and animal body.

If we describe the mechanism of action of growth factors as simply as possible, then we can say that they regulate the growth and reproduction of cells, their differentiation (the transformation of non-specialized cells into specialized ones), maintain a healthy state and functioning of all organs and tissues.

As it turned out, every cell in the body produces certain growth factors. For example, epidermal cells (keratinocytes), dermal cells (fibroblasts), and pigment cells (melanocytes) secrete and respond to different factors. All growth factors activate biochemical processes aimed at restoring and regenerating the skin, increase the amount of synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, which contributes to the restoration of skin elasticity and density.

Various factors interact with each other, being synergists, that is, friendly to each other. Strengthening the activity of one factor stimulates the activity of another, and so on, in a chain. But not a single factor in isolation can create the effect of real skin rejuvenation - they only activate biochemical reactions; in order for them to be fully realized, the safe reserves of the skin are necessary. Therefore, the use of preparations with growth factors does not exclude the use of nourishing, moisturizing and other means.

Any cosmetic product that contains one or more growth factors can be considered cosmeceutical, that is, not only improves the appearance of the skin, but also affects its deeper structures.

An important feature of growth factors is that they interfere with the processes of "internal aging", along with "external". In recent years, quite a lot of research has been conducted confirming that cosmetic products, which include one or more growth factors, the amount of which corresponds to the physiological characteristics of the skin, can reduce the manifestations of aging, slow down and even partially reverse the processes of external and internal aging. It is believed that with the help of growth factors, it is possible to change the "programmed tendency" of cells to stop reproducing or dividing; reduce the loss of skin collagen (normally, every year of life after 25 years we lose about one percent of collagen); slow down the thinning of the dermis; reduce damage to elastin. External aging refers to changes that occur as a result of exposure to ultraviolet radiation, smoking, etc. Growth factors can repair damaged blood vessels, reduce dry skin, narrow pores and even out complexion.

Until the age of 25, our skin has enough of its own growth factors, but then their number and activity decrease every year. The use of funds with growth factors, in theory, helps to compensate for age-related deficiency.

Many growth factors are used in cosmetics, the most popular of which is probably epidermal growth factor (EGF).

In addition to it, you can find the following ingredients on the label of creams for aging skin:

Transforming growth factor (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3);
- vascular growth factor (VEGF);
- hepatocyte growth factor (HGF);
- keratinocyte growth factor (KGF);
- fibroblast growth factor (bFGF);
- insulin-like growth factor (IGF1);
- platelet growth factor (PDGF-AA).

Transforming growth factor enhances the synthesis of new collagen, keratinocyte accelerates the division of epidermal cells, insulin-like and platelet regulate and accelerate the growth and division of skin cells. Hepatocyte and vascular growth factors stimulate the growth of new blood vessels in the skin. It should be noted that the growth of new vessels can lead to an increase in sensitivity, so preparations that include VEGF and HGF should not be used on sensitive, irritated and damaged skin. However, it is these growth factors that are used with success in the treatment of baldness and other problems associated with hair. Fibroblast growth factor is used to stimulate the growth of eyelashes: it is he who is part of most of the famous means with which you can quickly achieve "fan" eyelashes.

Epidermal growth factor has a fairly wide range of effects: it stimulates the growth and division of cells, renewal of the epidermis. When using products containing EGF, there is a gradual increase in the synthesis of DNA, RNA, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin. As a result, they are able to quickly improve the appearance of aging skin. Epidermal growth factor is even called beauty factor (“beauty factor”).

All growth factors are small in size and fairly low in molecular weight: for example, EGF has an atomic mass of about 6,200 daltons and consists of 53 amino acids. That is, he can quite easily

penetrate the skin, overcoming its protective barrier. For faster delivery of growth factors, transport systems (nanosomes, liposomes, etc.) can also be used.

In essence, the main question regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology is: how safe is it? The fact is that growth factors can play not only a “good role” (in particular, when they are produced by the body during injuries and promote healing).

On labels growth factors, according to INCI, are denoted as follows:
rh-Oligopeptide-1,
sh-Oligopeptide-2,
sh-Polypeptide-1,
rh-Polypeptide-3,
sh-Polypeptide-9,
sh-Polypeptide-10,
sh-Polypeptide-11,
sh-Polypeptide-19, etc.

Other titles:
EGF,
FGF-7,
KGF-1,
heparin-binding growth factor 7 (HBGF-7),
VEGF, FGF,
igf,
TGF etc.

An increase in the number of growth factors is also observed in many types of tumors, and their number can also increase in autoimmune diseases: for example, in rheumatoid arthritis, a high concentration of VEGF is found in the joints and skin.

Some researchers believe that the constant use of cosmetic products containing growth factors can provoke the development of tumors or other health problems. In addition, the use of TGF is associated with a possible increased risk of severe scarring and even the development of keloid scars at the site of injuries and injuries. The use of eyelash stimulants has also generated controversy: ophthalmologists believe that they can cause inflammation of the eyes. There is no complete certainty that growth factors really penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and can seriously affect the aging process.

In general, the official position regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology can be formulated as follows: - Apply products with growth factors for a short period of time (for example, in the form of an active course lasting no more than four to six weeks), then take a break for several months. - It is advisable not to use products with growth factors on a daily basis (say, use only masks with growth factors once or twice a week, but not creams or concentrates for daily care). - In no case should you use products with growth factors at an increased risk of developing cancer, people who have had or are suffering from skin cancer (melanoma, etc.). - Do not use products with growth factors at a young age, "for prevention." It is advisable to use such cosmetic preparations only when signs of skin aging appear: wrinkles, age-related dryness, etc.

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