What does ef lens mean? Nikon lens markings

E.F.– this format, introduced back in 1987, refers to a completely electronic lens mount to the camera body. Lenses designated EF are compatible with all EOS film and digital cameras and are capable of working with full-frame 35mm format;
EF-S– The only difference between Canon EF and EF-S lenses is the fact that the latter is designed to work with APS-C sensors, such as that found on the Canon EOS 700D camera. Canon EF-S lenses should not (and in most cases cannot) be mounted on Canon EOS film or digital cameras with a 36x24mm sensor size due to the larger mirror used in these cameras. When attached to such cameras, there is a risk of damage to the mirror when the shutter is released, which may hit the rear element. EF-S lenses are equipped with a special protective element that prevents them from being mounted on full-frame EOS devices;
EF-M is a new lens format that was specifically designed for CanonEOSM mirrorless systems with EF-M mount. Like the EF-S, EF-M lenses are designed for cameras with an APS-C sensor. They can only be used with CanonEOSM system cameras due to their short flange distance (the distance between the lens mount and the film or sensor surface). At the same time, EF and EF-S type lenses can be mounted on the EF-M mount using appropriate adapters, but EF-M lenses cannot be mounted on the EF mount;
FD- This is an old bayonet mount format for manual focusing, used in optics until 1987. Since this mount was not suitable for autofocus, the EOS system with an EF mount was developed. Release of CanonFD lenses on this moment discontinued, but the lenses are still used by film camera enthusiasts. There are several modified FD mount lenses that, using special adapters, can be installed on modern EOS EF cameras. An adapter with a special optical element allows you to focus at infinity, while conventional adapters do not allow this;
CHO– lenses identical to FD lenses only without special coating of the front lens (meaning SSC coating, which allows you to cope with side and backlight and achieve excellent contrast);
FL– lenses identical to FD lenses with the inability to work in shutter priority mode.

2) Abbreviation of Canon lenses depending on class and technology:

L– belonging to the “Luxury” line. The L designation denotes top-end, professional lenses with the best optical characteristics and formulas using complex elements. These lenses are created in accordance with the most high standards Canon and are often weather sealed and also feature a wide aperture. The cost of L lenses differs depending on their quality. For example, some lenses can be considered budget, for example the 24-105mm f/4 L lens. Its cost is over $1,100 at the moment, which is certainly not small. But for L-optics this price is more than acceptable. L lenses are easily recognizable thanks to the red ring on the body;
SSC– Super Spectra Coating. Originally invented by Lord Rayleigh in 1886 and later refined by Carl Zeiss, this coating had a huge impact on the development of optics. In effect, this coating minimizes reflections and increases contrast. All modern Canon lenses are multi-coated and only older lenses are marked SSC;
l, ll, lll– Roman numerals indicating the generation of the lens. For example, there are two Canon lens 24-70mm f/2.8L: the first CanonEF 24-70mm f/2.8L and the second USM CanonEF 24-70mm f/2.8L ll USM. The only difference in the name is the "ll" designation on the second lens, which is actually an updated version of the first lens. Both lenses are professional L-class lenses, but with different optics and prices. Typically, if a lens gets Image Stabilizer (IS), it also means a newer release of the optic;
USM– means that the lens is equipped with a top-end ring ultrasonic motor. This is a fast, quiet and powerful autofocus motor, which also allows you to manually adjust focus at any time. It is used in most modern Canon lenses, from inexpensive prime lenses to expensive L-class lenses;
Micro USM– means that the optics use a simpler and smaller motor. Like its older brother, this motor is fast and quiet and is used in compact lenses with a small number of optical elements. A significant drawback is the fact that Micro USM does not allow manual focus adjustment at any time. But there are exceptions to this rule. One notable lens, the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM, allows full manual focus when the Micro USM motor is engaged. At the same time, it is worth noting that both the presence of a USM motor in the lens and the equipping of the MicroUSM lens with a motor are indicated on the body in the same way, with the letters USM;
STM– Stepper motor designed to minimize vibration and noise when recording video. This motor is gradually making its way into the budget segment of Canon optics. The first lens to use STM was the EF-M 22mm STM lens. So, all EF-M lenses currently have a stepper motor, and some EF-S lenses have received updated versions with an installed STM motor (for example, EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM). In lenses with an STM motor, the movement of the focus ring is now measured electronically and the data is then sent to the STM motor, which in turn drives the lens system;
A.F.D.– The Arc-Form Drive was the first focusing motor to be used in Canon EF lenses. It is much noisier and slower compared to USM engines. Also worth noting is the slow response, as well as the inability to use manual focusing. If a lens with autofocus does not have motor data indicated on the body, then the optics are equipped with either an AFD motor or a MicroMotor;
MM– this abbreviation stands for Micro Motor, which is essentially a smaller version of the AFD motor. This motor is used only in the cheapest Canon lenses such as the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS ll Kit. The motor does not allow you to use manual focusing at any time and produces quite a lot of noise during operation;
PZ– a stand for a zoom lens, which has a special motor for changing the focal length. Perhaps the only lens that uses PZ is the EF 35-80mm f/4-5.6 PZ;
IS– this abbreviation means image stabilization for Canon. Image stabilization refers to technology that moves the optical elements of the lens to counteract shake or shake, allowing for more accurate results with a long shutter speed and static position of the optics.

3) Specialized designations for Canon lenses:

Macro– a lens with this designation focuses at relatively short distances and provides a 1:1 magnification;
Compact Macro– similar to regular Macro lenses, but can focus at very close distances (for example the EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro lens). There is a special converter for this lens, which increases the flange distance (the distance between the sensor or film and the front lens of the lens) and makes it possible to magnify 1:1 for this optics (meaning the Canon Life-Size Converter EF);
MP-E– there is only one lens with this designation and that is the Canon MP-E 62mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro. MP-E stands for very high magnification. The lens begins to focus at the distance that is the maximum for most macro lenses. This lens cannot focus at infinity. Instead, the user will have the option of magnification ranging from 1:1 to 5:1;
TS-E– Tilt-shift lenses are used for creative portraits, landscapes, architectural or macro photography. They are exotic and expensive lenses with exclusively manual focus;
DO– lenses using special Diffractive Optics lenses, which bend light more than regular glass. This allows them to be smaller than conventional lenses with the same parameters. A famous example Such optics is the Canon EF 400mm f/4 DO IS USM lens. It, like the L lenses, has impressive build quality, but has a green ring on the body rather than a red one;
Softfocus– as you may have guessed, Softfocus lenses have optical formula, which allows you to get a “softer” picture. Such lenses were very popular several decades ago because they concealed skin imperfections. portrait photography and created a special “soft” frame effect. It is worth noting that such lenses are not particularly popular nowadays, since the soft focus effect can be obtained in post-processing. There is only one Canon EF lens with Softfocus and that is the EF 135mm f/2.8 lens. You can turn off the Softfocus function by turning the corresponding ring on the lens and then the EF 135mm f/2.8 lens will work normally.

Turitsyn Andrey

This table lists some of the markings for DSLR lenses. Manufacturers (and, of course, stores) do not know how, do not want or cannot come to common agreements, which is why you have to study not just one, but a whole bunch of markings :) It is assumed that a beginner buying a SLR camera is already interested in lenses , and also familiar with the terms. For example, he knows that a bayonet is a device for mounting (docking) a camera with a lens, all camera manufacturers have different bayonets, and it is impossible to install a Nikon lens on a Canon camera, and an ultrasonic motor (unlike a regular screwdriver) is responsible for faster and faster precise focusing... Various types lenses (for example, low dispersion, aspherical) are responsible for reducing various distortions inherent in any optics.

In general, anyone who decides to buy a DSLR should, one way or another, have some information about lenses. Since the main thing in a DSLR is the lens, and not the camera, which without optics is simply called a “body” :) I have compiled typical lens designations into a single table, and provided additional markings below.

Lens markings

Lens characteristics	Canon	Nikon	Pentax	Sony	Sigma	Tamron
Bayonet	EF/EF–S	F	KAF/KAF2	A	any	any
For full frame (FF)	E.F.	FX	F.A.	-	DG	-
Only for crop (APS-C matrix)	EF–S	DX	D.A.	D.T.	DC	Di II
Professional Series	L	–	*	G	EX	SP
Image Stabilizer	IS	VR	In the cell	In the cell	OS	V.C.
Ultrasonic motor	USM	S.W.M.	SDM	SSM	HSM	USD
Internal focusing	I/R	IF	IF	–	IF/HF	IF
Low dispersion lenses	UD	ED	ED	–	–	LD/AD
Apochromatic lenses	–	–	–	APO	APO	HID
Aspherical lenses	AL	AS	AL	–	A.S.P.	ASL
Compact lens	DO	–	Limited	–	U.C.	XR

The hyphen "-" in the table means the absence of this characteristic (or the absence of the necessary information). Full frame lenses, as a rule, can be mounted to crop (APS-C matrix), but not vice versa.
The asterisk "*" does not mean a footnote, but a marking of the professional series of Pentax lenses.
A compact (or ultra-compact) lens is not a point-and-shoot lens, but a lens with very small dimensions and weight :)

Designation of focal lengths and lens aperture.

It’s strange, but manufacturers always adhere to this marking. Not only are these designations generally accepted, they are always indicated on the lens (as, of course, is the proud name of the manufacturer!). In general, this is logical :)

designations of real (working) focal lengths
On zoom lenses it is written as two numbers: the first is the minimum focal length, the second is the maximum. For example, 18-55mm.
A lens with a fixed focal length (prime) has only one number, for example, 35mm.

aperture designations
A zoom lens has two numbers - this is the maximum aperture, respectively, at the near and far end of the focal length. For example, f3.5-5.6.
A fixed focal length lens will only have one number, for example 2.8, or 1:2.8, or f2.8

Some additional lens markings.

Macro— lenses for macro photography have similar designations.
∅67 mm— the number indicates the diameter of the thread for the filter.

Lens markings Canon

EF is an autofocus lens.

EF-M - lenses for Canon EOS M camera

mirrorless cameras

DO - diffractive optical lenses.

green ring

TS-E - Tilt-Shift Lenses

CA is a circular diaphragm.

AF/MF - focus switch

automatic mode

MP-E - (Macro Photo Electronic), MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro special lens

Lens markings Nikkor(Nikon)

AF - first generation autofocus lenses.

AF-S - second generation autofocus lenses with autofocus motor

DC - defocus control (AF DC-NIKKOR).

D is the distance to the object being focused on.

G - the lens does not have an aperture control ring.

Micro - macro lens.

N - nanocrystalline coating (Nano Crystal Coat).

RD - rounded diaphragm.

Lens markings Sony

CZ - lenses from Carl Zeiss.

D - focusing distance.

SAL - Sony lenses.

SAM - Smooth Autofocus Motor.

T* - proprietary enlightenment.

Lens markings Pentax

Let's look at the markings using the following lens as an example:

SMC Pentax DA 16-45 mm f/4 ED AL

The numbers 16-45 mean that the lens has a variable focal length (zoom) from 16 to 45, which in 35 mm format gives 24-67.5 mm. Those. This is a short throw lens with a range from wide angle to standard focal length. A not very large zoom is both a disadvantage and an advantage, because it is known that the smaller the zoom, the less distortion.

The next number - f4 means aperture. The lens is not a fast lens, since it is generally accepted that “lightness” starts at f2.8. But the aperture is constant at all ends of the focal length, and does not fall in the telephoto position, which immediately distinguishes the lens from “whale” ones with variable aperture f3.5 - 5.6.

SMC - proprietary multilayer coating

DA - lens for APS-C digital cameras

ED - low dispersion glass

AL - aspherical lenses

Filters for the Pentax DA 16-45 lens are 67 mm in diameter. This is indicated on the lens itself, and not in its name :) There is no dust and moisture protection (for it there is the designation “WR”, which is not in the table). What else can you say about this optics? With a skillful approach, the quality of the photographs turns out to be very excellent. As, in fact, with any normal lens :) On this occasion I would like to make a brief lyrical digression.

You should not mindlessly chase expensive optics, unless you are engaged in professional photography: in many cases you will not see the difference in the photographs, and you will overpay a lot of money. But for professionals there is still a difference, and it lies in the working conditions. There should be no compromises here! For example, the above-mentioned lens differs from a professional one in the absence of a higher aperture ratio, an ultrasonic focusing motor, and a dust- and moisture-proof coating. How is this known from the labeling? Very simple: if only because the asterisk * is not specified :)

There are a lot of rumors about Canon lenses on the Internet, I admit honestly, until recently I myself was mistaken about the difference between EF and EF-S lenses. In this article, I tried to collect some information about them, which will help make a choice in favor of one modification or another, put an end to disputes and dispel some myths.

Let's first decipher the abbreviation EF - it comes from the phrase Electro-Focus (“Electrofocus”). With the EF mount comes an automatic focusing system built into the optics, i.e. There are no moving parts between the lens and the camera, only contacts, and the electric motor in the lens is responsible for focusing and aperture. By the way, the first EF series lens appeared back in 1987.

EF-S is a modification of the mount for cameras with an APS-C format matrix, which was developed in 2003. The "S" stands for Short Back Focus. The last optical element in such lenses is located closer to the matrix than in EF lenses. For comparison, I’ll give a picture of two lenses with different mount modifications.

Left lens EF, right EF-S

As you can see, on the right lens the last lens is located after the mount thread, i.e. when installed on the camera, it will be noticeably closer to the matrix. In fact, this is the only, but very important difference. The fact is that EF-S optics cannot be used with full-frame cameras. Despite the compatibility of the mount, a protruding lens can damage the camera mirror. Moreover, EF lenses are compatible and can be used with any Canon EOS cameras (DSLRs).

For APS-C format cameras, lens focal lengths must be adjusted. To calculate the focal length equivalent to that obtained on a full-format sensor, you need to multiply the values indicated on the lens by 1.6. There is a widespread opinion on the Internet that for the EF-S series this is not necessary and the real values are indicated on the optics, already taking into account recalculation. This is wrong. As an example, I will give a description of the new Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II lens from the company’s official website:

The EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II is a high-quality, standard zoom lens that will appeal to photographers who prefer to travel light. With a focal length equivalent of 29-88mm in 35mm format…

As you can see, for these lenses the standard conversion of focal lengths is used and 18-55 turns into 29-88mm. A completely logical question arises: why bother with this entire garden? The fact is that this design made it possible to make lighter, smaller lenses. This is according to Canon, but in fact, it is quite possible that this is done so that inexpensive lenses are not used with expensive full-frame equipment.

Another interesting touch: neither the EF nor the EF-S were licensed to third party optics manufacturers such as Sigma or Tamron. Despite these manufacturers' claims of 100% compatibility, Canon does not provide such a guarantee. Therefore, when purchasing non-branded lenses, they must be tested especially carefully.

Let's draw conclusions about Canon lenses:

focal length on APS-C cameras is recalculated for all types of lenses;
ultra-wide angle on cropped cameras is only available with the EF-S 10-22mm lens;
Unfortunately, fisheye on cropped cameras is not available at all;
EF lenses are suitable for any Canon cameras;
When upgrading from an APS-C camera to full frame, EF-S lenses cannot be used.

If you plan to upgrade to a full frame camera in the future, consider purchasing lenses in advance.

If you are wondering what all these letters on your Canon lens mean, then you have come to the right place.

FD These are ancient lenses from Canon that were produced in the 70s-80s. They are not suitable for modern cameras, so such a lens can only be attached to a modern camera with an EF mount using a special adapter. Unlike Nikon, Canon changed the mount, and therefore the old FD lenses have lost any value, forget about them. After the relatively short life of the FD (about 15 years), Canon released a new type of EF mount, but don't worry, the EF line has about 60 lenses, this should last you a lifetime, so there is plenty to choose from.

EF (Electro-Focus) means that your lens has electronic autofocus, i.e. There is a motor built inside the lens, and the camera only sends commands through contacts on the lens. Actually, all Canon lenses made after 1987 are EF, so this marking is on your lens, unless of course you inherited it. EF lenses are compatible with all Canon digital cameras.

EF-S (Electro-Focus S back focus ) this is the same EF only designed taking into account, for SLR cameras Canon 1.6x, and is not compatible with full-format cameras such as 5D, 1D.

USM (Ultrasonic Motor) – ultra sound drive. Lenses with this drive focus faster and produce much less noise. It is used in rather expensive lenses.

DC (micro motor)– this motor is used on budget lenses from Canon. This doesn't mean it's bad, it's just that focusing is slower.

L (Luxury) if you have a lens marked L, it means you are either a cool photographer or you have a lot of money, well, it’s also possible to have both in one person, but this is rare :) Actually, these lenses are distinguished by super-high-quality optics, they are sharp, reliable and often huge and heavy. All “luxury class” lenses can be easily identified by their red border, for example :

DO (Diffractive Optics) Lenses with this mark are distinguished by optics that practically eliminate all optical deficiencies, as well as, and are noticeably smaller in size. Canon produced few such lenses - only two: EF 400 mm f/4 DO IS USM And EF 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM.

II, III- this is how Canon denotes the version of the lens. If your lens says II, then there is already a younger version with the same focal length. For example :

AF/MF a switch that allows you to take photographs either manually or automatically. Manual mode is useful when the camera can't get focus in auto, for example when you .

1.8m – /6m – you can only find this switch on telephoto lenses, and although the numbers may be different, it means the focus mode boundary, in in this case, if the switch is at 1.

8m, then the lens will search for focus up to a distance of 1.8m (minimum focusing distance), and if 6 meters, it means only up to 6m. This is convenient when you are sure that you will be photographing something far away, in this case, the lens will not waste time focusing in the range of 1.8-6m and will focus faster. There is such a switch on:

28-300mm– Range of possible focal lengths for a zoom lens. The first number is the minimum focal length, the second is the maximum that will be available to you with this lens (specifically, in this case, the minimum is 28mm, the maximum is 300mm). If there is one number, then it is a lens with a fixed focal length, that is, a prime lens, not a zoom lens.

f:3.5-5.6– This is the maximum possible for your lens. If this is a zoom, then there will be two numbers (for example, 3.5-5.6). The first is the maximum aperture at the near focal length. That is, if you have an 18-200mm lens, then at 18mm the maximum will be f/3.5. The second number is the maximum aperture at the far focal length, that is, f/5.6 at 200mm, for example. If the number is the same on the zoom, then the maximum aperture will be the same at all focal lengths. Well, prime lenses also have one number, because it has only one focal length, in fact, that’s why it’s a prime lens. The maximum aperture also determines.

fisheye– this type of lens cannot be confused with anything. If your lens says Fisheye (“ Fish eye” in Russian), which means you can take photos like this:

Some things may seem simple and clear without unnecessary explanation, but in fact, what is obvious to you is not always obvious to other people. Several times I came across situations where my students were embarrassed to ask about the meaning of all these numbers on the lenses. If you don't know what they mean, don't be shy and think you're stupid. In this article we will figure out exactly what is hidden behind the numerous combinations of numbers on the lenses.

Standard settings seen on new digital lenses

FOCAL LENGTH

If you have a zoom lens, then you will find a ring on it, by turning which you can bring objects closer or further away. Using this ring you can also see what focal length is set at the time of shooting. For example, in a photograph of a zoom lens with a focal length range of 70-200mm, you can see that the selected focal length is 100mm.

If you are using a fixed distance lens, you will not find a zoom ring on it. The body of such a lens will simply indicate its fixed focal length, for example 85mm, as in the photo below.

MAXIMUM APERTURE

Maximum is the widest aperture opening (the widest small number on the aperture scale) that your lens is capable of. Many photographers want their lenses to have a wider aperture option, like f2.8 or even f1.8, because wide open lets in more light, allowing you to take clear photos in low light. This parameter can vary greatly between lenses.
You can usually find aperture information in one of two places on your lens, and sometimes in two named places at once:
- on the upper edge of the lens barrel;
- on the front side of the lens in the area for attaching the filter.
In the example below you can see two different lenses. Tamron 17-35mm lens (note that the focal length scale is also visible on this) and an 85mm focal length lens. On a Tamron lens you see a value of "1:2.8-4", and on an 85mm lens you see a value of "1:1.8". This means that the maximum aperture opening on an 85mm lens is f1.8, while on a Tamron zoom lens it varies from f2.8 to f4 depending on the zoom level used. At the 17mm focal length you can open up to f2.8, but if you use the maximum focal length of 35mm, the maximum aperture is only f4. This is quite common with kit lenses and lenses that have a wide range of focal lengths (for example, 28-300mm or 18-200mm).

FOCUS RANGE AND FOCUS SCALE

On many lenses you will find a distance scale (not all digital lenses have one) - this is usually divided into two separate lines: for feet and for meters. At one end there will be an infinity sign, at the other end it will indicate at what minimum distance from the object your lens is able to focus - its minimum focusing distance. Some lenses have a MACRO function, which gives you the opportunity to get a little closer to your subject. These lenses aren't true macro lenses and you can't get very close to your subject, but they're a handy lens if you want to get closer to your subject without the cost and weight of an extra lens.
In the photo below you can see that in the case of the Tamron lens (on the right), this scale is printed directly on the body, but for the Canon 70-200 lens it is located in the body itself under a transparent panel. The scales on both lenses will move if you manually adjust the focus (**note: please remember to disable autofocus if you manually adjust the focus, because if this function is not disabled, turning the focus ring may damage the mechanisms in your lens**).

FILTER SIZE OR LENS DIAMETER

On the edge of your lens, you may also see a symbol that looks like the letter "f" followed by numbers. These numbers indicate the diameter of the front of your lens or the size of the filter that will fit it. You can find these same numbers on the back of the lens cap. So the lens diameter in the photo below is 77 mm. This helpful information, whether you are going to a photo store to buy a filter or buying one online.

Less common settings seen on older manual focus lenses

APERTURE RING

This ring may not be on your lens. Most new lenses do not have it, because now the degree of opening of the aperture is set and controlled using the camera body. In the days of film and lenses, manual focus was mounted on the camera, and the opening of the aperture was adjusted on the lens. You can find great deals on old fast prime lenses or film camera lenses that are great for specific purposes (like macro photography). Very often, such lenses will cost much less than new “digital” lenses (you will just need to buy a special adapter to install such a lens on your camera). Just remember that on such lenses you need to set the focus manually, and for some of them you will have to set the aperture opening yourself directly on the lens itself. If you have a similar lens, the aperture ring on it might look something like this:

HYPERFOCAL DISTANCE SCALE

This scale is more difficult to come across, and it is more difficult to explain why it is needed. If you only have zoom lenses, you won't find this scale on them. If you have a prime lens, especially if it's an older model, you may notice an additional ring of numbers on it like the one shown in the photo below (the numbers are centered on either side of the orange line).

The rows of numbers on this lens correspond (in order from top to bottom):
- focus scale;
- hyperfocal distance scale;
- a ring for adjusting the aperture, with which you adjust the degree of opening of the lens aperture.
The hyperfocal distance scale is used to let you know which parts of your photo will be in focus when using different aperture settings. Note that the lens in the photo above is set to open at f16 and is focused at 5 meters. Now take a look at the scale in the middle and look at the f16 value to the left of its central orange line - this indicates the closest point that will be in focus when you focus to the specified distance at the specified aperture opening (in this case it will be approximately 2. 75 m.). Now look at the f16 value to the right of the center orange line. You will see an infinity sign. Based on all that has been said, we can say that with an aperture value of f16, everything that is in the range from 2.75 meters to infinity will be in focus; the main thing is to point the lens at an object located at the desired distance.
In this situation, it appears that the infinity symbol and the f16 symbol on the hyperfocal distance scale to the right of the orange line have been combined, resulting in the largest possible depth of field at f16 (note that you are not actually focusing on a specific subject, you set the focus distance on the lens using numbers). Note: If you set the focus to infinity, then only objects located at a distance of about 4.5 meters to infinity will be in focus, and if you set the focus to 2 meters, the infinity in the photo will not be sharp. This issue has not been fully covered, so if you happen to have a lens with a similar scale, look for information on how to use it, and you can achieve much more interesting results using a small aperture.
If you're wondering what the little red dot means, it's an indication for focusing when shooting in infrared. When you photograph with infrared film, you need to focus in a different place than you would normally focus on, because the infrared region of the spectrum is different from the region of the spectrum that we see with our eyes. Earlier time From time to time I took photographs with infrared film. It's a funny thing, but it's not so easy to deal with - you need to know how to focus correctly and understand how to get the desired result. Today there are quite convincing digital ways to simulate shooting on infrared film. Despite this, sometimes I still think about taking photographs with film.