– a standard feature of all digital cameras. Exposure metering- This automatic detection the required amount of light for photography, on the basis of which the most suitable parameters are selected. Many cameras have multiple exposure metering modes. The required amount of light is determined differently in different modes.
Center-weighted exposure metering
This exposure metering mode is built into all compact digital point-and-shoot cameras by default, where it is not possible to select another mode. This is the most common system.
Exposure is measured on average across the entire frame, Special attention is focused on the central part of the photo. Center-weighted metering is used for all types of photography, but especially portrait photography, where the center of the frame is most important.
Matrix (evaluative) exposure metering
A complex exposure metering system in which the frame is divided into several zones. The overall exposure depends on the individual assessment of each zone and the averaging of the illumination of all zones. After determining the amount of light, it finds the necessary parameters. Matrix metering is best suited for scenes with even, low-contrast light.
Spot metering
Spot metering uses only 4 percent of the viewfinder area. The camera detects exact value exposure only for the central point of the frame and does not take into account the rest of its areas.
Spot metering is used for high-contrast scenes, such as when the background is bright and the subject is in shadow. This metering system is also used for detailed shots and macro photography.
Partial exposure metering
Partial metering is similar to spot metering, but captures more of the viewfinder, about 13 percent. It is used for portrait photographs when the subject is not lit and is against a bright background.
Partial metering is also used when there are bright or dark areas near the subject. Underexposure is minimized by metering the exposure to the main subject in the photo.
Both spot and partial exposure metering are considered advanced settings. They give the photographer more control over the scene than matrix and center-weighted metering.
Shutter speed was, is and will be one of the key parameters in photography. With its help you can “catch” the fastest car, “stop” a galloping horse, or you can get spectacular light trails or make the water “silk”. All these effects are achieved thanks to shutter speed, but how to correctly set this parameter in digital cameras? And here the exposition will help us.
The situations in which you have to shoot are different; depending on the exposure mode, you can get the ideal shutter speed for the frame, or you can get one that is too short or too long, which will lead to an overly dark or overexposed photograph.
How exposure metering works
IN Nikon cameras D300s/D800/D800E metering mode is changed using a special switch.
So, exposure metering helps the camera set the appropriate shutter speed, as well as the aperture (depending on the selected shooting mode), by measuring the amount and brightness of light in the frame. Most easy option for the camera when the scene is fairly evenly illuminated. However, in life everything is often different; moreover, according to the photographer’s idea, the light pattern of the frame can be distributed arbitrarily. This is where hiccups can arise. The problem can arise when there are multiple light sources in the scene or some areas are in shadow while others are well lit. To get a good result, you need to choose suitable mode exposure metering There are three modes in the camera settings:
"Matrix"
" Center-weighted
"Spot"
Matrix exposure metering
By default, all cameras use matrix metering. It is versatile and will suit most scenes. The essence of the algorithm is as follows: the camera analyzes the entire frame, dividing it into zones, and sets the exposure and/or aperture (depending on the shooting mode) according to the received data. Direct and backlighting is taken into account, the focal length and distance of the subject are taken into account. All this is true for lenses of type G or D; in other cases, a more simplified scheme is used. Are you not satisfied with the results of matrix exposure metering? Let's move on to the next option!
Center-weighted exposure metering
Center-weighted metering also takes place across the entire frame, but gives significant priority to the central zone. Using lenses with a built-in processor, in the camera settings you can change the diameter of the priority zone - 8, 12, 15, 20 mm or average (the entire frame field). The default is 12mm to define suitable option, it's worth experimenting with the settings.
Center-weighted metering is best used when the subject covers a significant portion of the frame, and there may be bright light sources behind it, such as the sun or a lamp.
Spot metering
When using spot metering, the camera uses a very small area to set shooting parameters - only 4 mm in diameter, which is about 1.5% of the area of the entire frame. The focus point selected by the camera or manually and the area surrounding it becomes priority. This way, you can measure exposure for objects located anywhere in the frame. For the mode to work, you will again need a lens with a processor.
Spot metering ensures that your subject is correctly exposed, regardless of how bright the frame is overall. If a person is in the shade and the sun is shining brightly, this option will be preferable if you want to “pull out” the exposure on a person.
Metering and shooting modes
In the previous article we looked at the shooting modes - P/S/A/M. In the case of program mode (P), the camera will independently set the shutter speed and aperture depending on the scene, the selected metering option and the focus point. Then you can adjust a bunch of shutter speed/aperture parameters, thanks to the flexible program. By selecting shutter priority mode (S), the camera will show whether the frame is correctly exposed if the aperture value does not allow it to meet the shooting parameters. For example, in excessive dark conditions Even the f/1.4 aperture value may not be enough and you will have to either lengthen the shutter speed or increase the ISO value, and possibly both parameters. But how can you tell if a frame is exposed correctly? When looking through the viewfinder, main or secondary screen (if available), you can see a scale with steps. If the frame is overexposed or underexposed, the exposure indicator will show deviations in one direction or another.
With aperture priority, the camera will take on the task of setting the shutter speed; the photographer just has to decide on the desired depth of field, and also ensure that the shutter speed is optimal for getting a sharp shot, if a tripod or monopod is not used. Using manual mode, the camera will indicate whether the frame is properly exposed by showing the scale data.
Exposure compensation
Exposure correction will help compensate for shutter speed in cases where you are not satisfied with the result set by the camera’s automatic system.
We looked at the available exposure metering modes, operating principle and possible settings. Moreover, we learned about how it works depending on the shooting modes and what to pay attention to. But there are situations when the values set by the camera are not suitable, and switching exposure modes does not help. In the case of manual shooting mode, everything is clear, the camera’s recommendations can be bypassed without problems, in semi-automatic mode it’s a little different. The user is presented with a convenient tool - exposure correction or compensation. Next to the shutter button there is another one, which shows a square with plus (+) and minus (-) values. By holding it and turning the camera's main control dial, the exposure can be compensated in one direction or another. The parameter itself is called exposure value (EV, Exposure Value). It can be changed from +5 to -5 in steps of 1.0, 1/2 and 1/3 (adjustable in the camera). A handy tool that allows you to bypass most obstacles without having to switch to manual shooting mode.
How do I change the metering mode?
In Nikon cameras entry level, to access the exposure metering settings, just press the button, after which you will have access to other parameters.
In entry-level Nikon cameras such as the D3200 or D5200, the exposure metering mode is changed by calling up the menu with the Info button. In older models - D7000 and D600 - there is a button at the top of the camera, near the shutter, to switch modes. By holding it and turning the main control dial, you can select the appropriate mode. If we are dealing with D700, D800, on back side The camera has an exposure metering mode switch. Lastly, center-weighted metering options are found in the Custom Settings menu, Metering/Exposure section.
Conclusion
Correctly set exposure metering will help you get a frame that won’t have to be “stretched out” during editing. Choice optimal mode depends on the scene and shooting conditions, if the automation does not allow you to get the desired effect, we adjust the exposure or switch to manual mode.
Thank you for providing the photograph of the mountain landscape of Mikhail Boyarsky
Which exposure metering mode is better than others? Point, center-weighted or evaluative (matrix)?
Exposure metering is one of the most tedious and difficult topics in photography. Many for whom photography is just a hobby do not pay due attention to this topic, but in vain.
As a rule, inexpensive, non-professional cameras (point-and-shoot cameras) have a fixed exposure measurement system; the device itself analyzes the light and selects the exposure; you cannot interfere with this process in any way. However, if you are the happy owner of a professional or semi-professional SLR camera, then it is important to know and understand how to use different kinds exposure metering. Put in a little effort and you will understand how important and necessary it is.
How does your camera measure exposure?
When metering exposure, light is divided into reflected and incident light. It is not difficult to guess that reflected light is light that is reflected from the subject, and incident light, accordingly, falls on the subject. Modern cameras are equipped with the latest developments in exposure metering, which have greatly simplified the entire process of exposure metering. However, it is important to understand the difference so that you understand the limitations of your camera's metering system.
The incident light exposure meter gives more accurate results, rather than by reflected light. By measuring the light reflected from an object, the built-in light meter does not know how much light is actually hitting the object (the incident light value), so it is quite easily misled. Remember how you tried to photograph a snowy landscape and were probably disappointed with the result. The fact is that snow is highly reflective, and the built-in exposure meter mistakenly assumed that the scene was brighter than it actually was. As a result, we end up with underexposed photos.
I recommend that you purchase an external exposure meter that can measure the incident light. But first, you should study in detail the operation of the built-in exposure meter and find out under what circumstances you should use one or another exposure metering mode.
A reflected light exposure meter, just like the one installed in your camera, roughly speaking, simply guesses about the amount of light on the scene, since all objects have completely different abilities to reflect and absorb light. Let's take the example of a snowy landscape again and compare it with a forest landscape; the reflective ability of snow is many times greater than that of trees, grass, etc. All light meters perceive the reflective surface in the same way, presenting it as a neutral gray. Subjects that are lighter or darker than the specified neutral gray are no longer exposed correctly.
Metering Modes
Fortunately, digital manufacturers SLR cameras offer us to choose the exposure measurement mode ourselves, thanks to which it is possible to somewhat compensate for the shortcomings arising from the reflected light metering system.
There are three main exposure metering modes: matrix (also often called evaluative, multi-zone, multi-zone, depending on the manufacturer), center-weighted and spot. Now let’s quickly figure out how they differ from each other:
Matrix mode
The concept of matrix metering is actually very simple to understand. To measure exposure, the frame is divided into zones, after which the brightness and the ratio of light and shadow are measured in each individual zone. As a result, the average value is displayed for all covered areas of the image, on the basis of which the exposure is set.
Everything seems quite simple, but the matrix system has a very complex algorithm, which is developed individually by all manufacturers and is kept secret. Depending on the manufacturer, during the metering process the frame is divided into different quantities zones, for some devices this number is not so large, but for some it reaches thousands.
In the metering process, in addition to light, other factors are taken into account, for example, the distance between the camera and the subject, colors, and focus point. Nikon even has a built-in database containing more than 30,000 different photographs of common scenes that were taken at the most optimal exposure. The camera can reference these photographs as a template when determining exposure.
Center weighted mode
In center-weighted mode, exposure is metered at approximately 60-80% of the image and measured over a central circle-shaped area. Some cameras are equipped with a function to adjust the size of this circle. The areas located at the edges of the photo have practically no effect on exposure metering, however, when calculating, at least slightly, they are still taken into account.
Previously, this measurement method was considered basic, but is now used in compact cameras as the main one. Why him? Because, as a rule, the subject is still closer to the middle of the frame, and not at its borders, so it is quite logical to determine the exposure in the center of the image.
Spot and partial modes
Spot and partial modes are similar to each other; they work on the same principle: they take very small areas of the image (usually in the center of the frame) as the area for measuring exposure. For spot metering, this area is approximately 1-5% of the entire image; partial metering covers a slightly larger area, approximately 15% of the entire frame. On cameras from some manufacturers, the so-called exposure metering area can be shifted from the center to the corners of the frame.
Spot metering allows you to very accurately expose individual fragments that are small relative to the entire image. Spot metering is most effective when shooting high-contrast images, when the subject is well lit and the background is in shadow, or vice versa, when the subject is framed by bright light.
When to use matrix metering
Matrix exposure metering is perhaps the most widely used, both among professional and amateur photographers. It is best used in conditions of uniform lighting. In case you don't know what mode is for a given frame fits better others or you simply don’t have time to think, then choose the matrix mode by default, as many photographers do.
When to use center-weighted metering
Center-weighted metering is suitable for portraits. In this mode, the illumination of the central part of the frame is measured; the further the object is from the center, the less its influence on the exposure. The results of center-weighted metering are more predictable than matrix metering, but it requires more concentration on the part of the photographer. When you need more control over exposure (for example, you don't want light coming from the back of the frame to affect your exposure), choose center-weighted metering mode.
A good example of the benefits of center-weighted metering are high-contrast photographs, such as those taken in bright sunlight, and especially portraits taken in nature. At portrait photography It is important to correctly expose the subject, not what surrounds it.
When to use spot metering
Spot metering, as a rule, is used by professional photographers who have relevant experience and an excellent understanding of the exposure metering system as a whole. When you master this knowledge and understanding, you will be able to use spot metering, for example, for shooting in backlight (in backlight, it is only possible to correctly expose the model’s face using spot metering, otherwise the model will turn into a dark silhouette). Spot metering is also good for shooting objects at long distances or for macro photography, especially when the subject does not take up most frame. When using spot metering, be careful: if you expose a small area well, you can easily lose the rest of the frame.
Spot metering works well in situations where the scene is evenly lit, but the subject is clearly brighter or darker than its surroundings. For example, white dog against a dark wall or a man dressed in black standing against a white building. Other good and very famous example is the moon against the background of the night sky, a bright object against a very dark background.
Use pre-focus mode
When photographing in center-weighted exposure metering mode, I recommend using the pre-focus function. This feature locks exposure metering while the shutter button is pressed halfway. This is convenient because center-weighted mode allows you to expose objects that are only in the center of the frame. With this function, you can position the subject in the center of the frame, read the light information, and then compose the photo and then press the shutter button.
Another function of your camera will also be useful, namely Auto Exposure (AE) lock.
Don't forget about exposure compensation
Exposure compensation can greatly improve your photography. Do not forget that all built-in exposure meters, regardless of the selected metering mode, only take into account reflected light, and this often leads to errors. For some types of scenes, exposure compensation will be essential. Again, using a snowy landscape as an example, or a photo taken on a beach where the sand is too light, these frames will be underexposed and will require at least +1 stop compensation.
Which mode is better?
So, everyone is probably wondering which exposure metering mode is best to use. To this question, as to many other questions regarding the shooting process, I will answer: it all depends on the situation. Most likely, you shoot or will shoot in center-weighted and matrix modes for the most part, preferring one of the two depending on the type of lighting and your own preferences. Low-contrast or even dimly lit objects are best shot in matrix mode. And for contrasty images, center-weighted metering is more suitable. As for spot metering, leave it for backlit scenes and other experiments.
Measuring exposure is a complex technical part of photography, and success is achieved through trial and error. And if photography is just one of your hobbies, and this information doesn’t seem particularly necessary to you, then just set the matrix exposure metering mode. But don’t stop there, experiment, try new things and develop.
A novice photographer who has just bought his first SLR camera in a store sometimes finds it difficult to understand its settings and therefore begins to shoot various scenes in automatic mode or in one of the basic modes (“Sports”, “Portrait”, “Landscape”). But when a beginner decides to delve into the more complex basics of photography, he is faced with such a term as “Exposure Metering Mode” . What it is? What is each mode for, and how to use them? Our article today will answer these questions.
Exposure metering – determining the required amount of light for photography. This measurement can be done in three ways:
Read here:
At a specific point (spot metering);
Based on the central part of the frame (center-weighted metering);
Over the entire frame area (matrix metering).
Spot metering
In “Spot Metering” exposure metering mode, the camera reads light information only in a small part of the frame, for example in the center, as is most often the case, and uses this data to build optimal value excerpts. This mode is convenient if there are sudden changes in temperature (for example, if you are photographing an object in the sun or backlight), because allows the photographer to control the illumination of the main subject and avoid overexposure and underexposure of the frame. 
Matrix metering
This is the most difficult exposure metering mode for photographic equipment and the easiest for a photographer. In this mode, the frame is divided into several zones in which the illumination is measured and the exposure is assessed, after which the average value is calculated and, ultimately, the necessary parameters are determined.
Matrix metering can be used in almost any situation, even if the subject is in uneven lighting. It gives good results in almost any case. But if matrix metering does not give the expected result, then use exposure correction, which is available in almost every modern DSLR camera, or simply switch the camera to a different exposure metering mode. 
Center-weighted metering
Center-weighted exposure metering is usually used when you want to photograph a subject that is in the center of the frame. In this mode, the camera analyzes only the central part of the frame, practically ignoring the edges. But this is not at all a disadvantage. Conversely, using center-weighted metering, the photographer can predict final result and get exactly the picture you wanted.
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