Electric underfloor heating in the booth? Body temperature in dogs

evgen1981 10/04/2013 - 14:31

Dear members of the forum, who has experience in installing a warm electric floor in a booth? I'm building a booth for a chicken, but I'm worried that it will freeze, they promise a cold winter. I saw ready-made sets of underfloor heating for booths immediately rushed to install and now I think whether the dogs will not get sick because of the large temperature difference. in general, help with advice.

Stas 10/04/2013 - 14:36

evgen1981
who has experience in installing a warm electric floor in a booth

A friend in the booth VEO hung on the wall "kind warmth" - such film wall heaters, on the far wall. He says that the dog decides for himself what is best: sometimes he sleeps pressed against the wall, sometimes he lays down closer to the exit, even in severe frost.

evgen1981 10/04/2013 - 14:42

yeah, I know this, but how is the dog not sick?

evgen1981 10/04/2013 - 14:51

Stas 10/04/2013 - 17:33

evgen1981
I know that. the dog is not sick?

Why should he be ill? It seems to me that this is even more correct than a warm floor, the dog decides for itself where it is more comfortable. True, this is veo, street content from birth - in winter there is wool and undercoat like a polar bear. Kurtz may have some peculiarities, I never had them. Another friend in the Tambov region has a spaniel in an open-air cage, he turns on an infrared lamp in its corner in winter, not very powerful, it seems about 200 watts. The flight has been normal for about six years.

evgen1981 10/04/2013 - 18:05

Warm floor is good because the litter is always dry. it is clear, who else can say what?

Stas 10/04/2013 - 18:26

evgen1981
Warm floor is good because the litter is always dry.

Nifiga it will not be dry, the warm floor regularly heats up to 25-30 degrees, approximately, I don’t remember the description for sure, but I have no thermostat with numbers ... So you will not get a dry bedding for sure.

Udavilov 10/04/2013 - 19:42

Make a warm booth. I made a booth, 10 cm polystyrene floor, between layers of roofing felt, a 10 cm minelite roof. At the entrance there is a three-layer curtain, carpet strips. The entrance is as small as possible. And there is no need for heating, otherwise the dog may be lazy to go outside.

Alex Chasnyk 10/04/2013 - 19:59

Here is a good project of a booth for a short-haired dog. Warmed, with a vestibule. Easy access for cleaning thanks to the retractable roof.

For my dog (German) I made an ordinary booth, with insulation. The entrance manhole (height of the manhole = height of the dog's withers) has curtains made of tent tarpaulin. The floor is insulated with foam. The dog liked the booth immediately! I didn't even have time to finish building, as he climbed there and lay down! -)). 2 winters already lives in a booth. Heating does not require -))). Before that, he had laid different rugs for him. In the morning they were always lying on the street -)). He threw them away!

Py.Sy. Another important point, when I was looking for how to determine the size of the booth for a specific dog, I saw many clarifying points, in particular: the absence of a draft is very important for a dog. Those. the booth must be made neatly and without gaps.

evgen1981 10/04/2013 - 20:18

I make a booth and so a warm brick. outside there is polystyrene inside the mineral wool under the lining, but I still worry about the short coat of the chicken, it’s not German.

Alex Chasnyk 10/04/2013 - 20:27

I'm sure good insulation will be enough. Necessarily curtains on the entrance. And the dog itself "warms" its dwelling quite well.

Py.Sy. Probably, wood is still better as a material for building a booth, PMSM.

Udavilov 10/04/2013 - 20:39

Alex Chasnyk 10/04/2013 - 20:42

Udavilov
the most common mistake is to make an oversized and high booth. It will not warm it up.

And if the booth is cramped, then it turns out like this:

Therefore, I rummaged through the Internet, and found how to determine the size of the booth, in accordance with the size of the dog.
Here is such a house for a dog.

Udavilov 10/04/2013 - 23:24

Poor dog) and the booth looks like a purchased one.

Alex Chasnyk 10/04/2013 - 23:34

Udavilov
and the booth looks like a purchased one.

Py.Sy.Yes, comfort in the booth is important for the dog. And, therefore, the house needs to be built according to the size. In the Internet there is information on how to measure the dog and get the dimensions for the booth. I did just that.

Py.Py.Cy. By the way, here is the booth in the manufacturing process-))))

The dog already likes it-)))

evgen1981 10/05/2013 - 13:20

the booth is good but what's wrong with the floor? will the dog hurt or not? is there anyone?

Stas 05.10.2013 - 16:14

evgen1981
will the dog hurt or not?

It seems to me that Kurzhaars are not the most widespread dog in the booth. Tell me in a year how the dog lives in the booth 😊

Kurtsik 10/05/2013 - 18:39

the booth is good but what's wrong with the floor? will the dog hurt or not? is there anyone?

No need for heating in the booth - no .... neither on the wall, nor under the floor.
This is bad for the dog's health. I have no such practice, but in all books they write that a dog's place should be away from heating appliances and not in drafts. Temperature changes are bad.
But there is the experience of many of my acquaintances (repeated) - keeping kurts in an aviary. All the descendants of my males have been kept in the yard since childhood .... the mentality of the villagers is the same - the dog will not be allowed into the house.
The booth should be very warm, with foam, etc. Do not put any rags inside. The rags become damp and the dog throws them away ... not because it is hot, but because of the dampness. At the entrance to the booth, hang a tarp (for example) so that it doesn't blow. You can also have a booth with a vestibule (as in the example above). In winter, do not lock the aviary - do not limit walking, let it run.
And yet - the dog is transferred to the open-air cage in the spring. Over the summer, having molted, in the fall (towards winter), with a gradual daily decrease in temperature, the undercoat grows - in chickens it is very dense, similar to batting 😊 - and the dog successfully hibernates in the booth. And you translate in late autumn - the dogs may freeze.

Aleksandr_A 05.10.2013 - 23:37

if we are talking about a booth, then there must be a separate vestibule and the absence of drafts. It is imperative to provide for the issue of ventilation - you cannot clog the dog in an unventilated space.
With regard to heating - be sure to install. The curt will not withstand at -20 on its own heating, I am not even talking about temperatures higher. The temperature in the booth should be no more than +15, so thermostats with sensors will help you (quality things cost good money). When a dog spends significant time in the booth, it breathes and heats up additionally, the temperature rises significantly. Jumping out of +25 at once to -25 is harmful to the dog. In addition, it is desirable that the vestibule also has a little heating - the dog itself will choose where it is located at the moment - either in the warmest room, or choose a cooler one.
As for the material inside the booth, the wood absorbs the smell very strongly, and it will definitely be, this is a dog, so think 100 times whether to save a penny or immediately do it for many years and not know the problems.

Then I saw an original heating solution - a film warm floor was turned into warm walls and a warm ceiling 😊 with separation when connected to zones. But this is already a perversion and a strong reinsurance, tk. heat rises from the bottom up and accumulates at the top, i.e. where there is no dog. All these gadgets a la "good warmth" are not our option, tk. does not heat effectively, plus there is every chance that the dog will gnaw it one fine moment.
Laminate flooring is perfect for decorating the booth inside, which does not absorb odor and is perfectly cleaned, plus it can be quickly replaced at any time and is not expensive. To process wood inside with chemistry - you know, it is not suitable.
It is also advisable to spend money on the entrance hole and buy, for example, Ferplast gates (2500 rubles). The dog can also gnaw tarpaulin and other rags, and if young, it will gnaw 100%.
And keep in mind that you build a booth for a short-haired dog, on a budget, as for a husky or a shepherd you will not get rid of.

Kurtsik 06.10.2013 - 12:22

With regard to heating - be sure to install. Kurtz will not withstand at -20 on its own heating, I am not even talking about temperatures higher.

They withstand easily - it has been repeatedly confirmed by two generations of Kurds ...
I myself am an opponent of open-air cage keeping - my dogs (all) are for apartments.
But those who took puppies from my kurts have a different opinion. Dogs were kept ONLY outdoors - all in the booths. But not in enclosures, but in flight around the yard.
Warm booths, plentiful high-calorie food (in the cold season), unlimited movement, and everyone survived to old age. A bitch under 12 years old (got cold in November water and did not heal on time), a male dog under 11 years old (hunting accident 😞), another male under 13 years old ... died of natural causes. These are the ones with whom I constantly saw on the hunts. I don’t know how long the others lived.
But I repeat - the puppies were immediately put into the booth in the spring. The undercoat grows the same as that of short-haired mongrels, gradually even overgrows the belly.
It is not worth risking before winter, the dog is without undercoat, practically naked, and the coat does not warm - it warms the undercoat.

Udavilov 06.10.2013 - 12:27

Alex chasnyk
Thanks for the compliment -))). Made by myself!

Did you regret the insulation?)

evgen1981 10/06/2013 - 14:56

kurtsik and alexander And thanks for the detailed answers. The dog has been living in my booth since spring, but the booth is cold plywood, now I'm building a capital to save, I don't want to come up in detail. in general, a booth was defined for myself and I will put a warm and warm floor with a thermostat just in case, I will not turn on freezing 😊 thank you all for the advice the topic in general can be closed

KuQ 10/07/2013 - 08:24

Hello! By the way, I also got a krts. Moreover, according to the genealogy, the drathar is branded. And on the face kurts. But that's not the point. I took it to keep it on the street and it turns out that the cable is freezing. I am also very concerned about the booth and aviaries. And I do them at an accelerated pace. I am thinking of putting an infrared panel in an insulated booth. Insulation walls of at least 10 cm. - Styrofoam. Radiation will break through less. Why him! I have it in the garage. The garage was bricked up. He heated up for a week and kept the temperature down to -10. That is, the temperature allows you to work in the garage in a T-shirt. This garage was not insulated. Right now I pasted over the walls with styrofoam 10 cm. Generally class. Consumption 7 watts 1 meter. These panels work so that they heat up the surrounding objects and they give off heat. Feeling on the body that the temperature in the room is 3-5 degrees higher. I think I'll fill in a 5 cm square and put a film panel under it. sensor and relyuhu on the wall so that the average temperature is removed in the booth and that's it. If not right, correct!

BigBob 10/07/2013 - 21:52

KuQ
a square of 5 cm and a film panel is placed under it. sensor and relyuhu on the wall so that the average temperature is removed in the booth and that's it

If the panel power is low, there will be a large temperature drift. In other words, when the temperature outside quickly drops, the heating system will respond with a delay. The most efficient heating can be done from a self-regulating cable embedded in concrete and a temperature sensor.

Aleksandr_A 07.10.2013 - 22:19

I don’t understand, do you suggest placing the dog on concrete / tiles?

KuQ 10/07/2013 - 22:44

Aleksandr_A
I don’t understand, do you suggest placing the dog on concrete / tiles?

Well, the drunk man is sleeping on warm floors. The wives do not have the strength to tow them to the bed by the leg. As for the dogs, I also read that from such a warm floor the sabak throws out the bedding as much as it pleases. True, scuffs appear on the skin. I do not think that when the cable is heated, the lozenge becomes damp. But with the panel, this is possible.

KuQ 10/07/2013 - 22:48

BigBob
If the panel power is low, there will be a large temperature drift. In other words, when the temperature outside quickly drops, the heating system will respond with a delay. The most efficient heating can be done with a self-regulating cable embedded in concrete and a temperature sensor.

And to what temperature does the stove heat up? And what is the price of the issue?

BigBob 10/07/2013 - 22:59

You can count, but I'm too lazy ...
http://www.teplo-116.ru/images/files/cabels/samreg1.pdf
I will add that you need to control and regulate the floor temperature (no more than 40 degrees), and not the air in the booth.

Aleksandr_A 07.10.2013 - 23:42

We decided to keep the dog outside / aviary - equip it with a comfortable place. No money for construction - keep it in your apartment / house. Why mock an animal?

KuQ 09.10.2013 - 15:43

Aleksandr_A
Well, try it, in December, when the buds fall off - unsubscribe.
I am amazed at the attitude of some of the owners of hunting dogs, whose dogs run around the yard like mongrels. And after all, such ridiculous arguments for justifying this outrage lead to the fact that hair is already moving. Starting from self-heating, ending with the protection of the site.
We decided to keep the dog outside / aviary - equip it with a comfortable place. No money for construction - keep it in your apartment / house. Why mock an animal?

Enough for you everywhere to look for enemies of dogs. I just read the topic by instinct and saw how you rolled out all the dull ones there. We are here to talk about technical possibility or impossibility. Here I am a theorist and I am looking for sound advice. If I had not taken the dog, the owner would have shot him. I would have shot him because he was buying a drathara and a kurts grew up. These are the breeders - the sellers with the cinematographers mock. In the pedigree everything is written in drathara. Sincerely.

Svjtogor 10.10.2013 - 05:09

Good day everyone, my dog lives on the veranda attached to the house, the veranda is warm. At first there were problems with my wife about the dog, we have a private house and she could not come to terms with the idea that the dog would live with us. That's why I had to insulate an extension, you can even say that this is a part of a house or another room for a dog, a booth and an aviary, I immediately deleted from the lists, in winter it can be -40 and I could not even think that I would kick her out into the street. I have a large plot, there is a vegetable garden, green tea, cucumbers 😊 but it is not separated by any fences. And there are no problems in this regard, in the spring, as soon as the beds were planted, the dog does not walk there, I don’t know why, but how did it happen that it was for her the territory immediately becomes forbidden 😊 In the summer, she spends all day in the yard and I do not restrict her to move around the site. In the morning I leave for work, I let out on the street, I leave the door in the veranda open. She also has free movement around the house except for the bedroom and kitchen when we have breakfast , have lunch or dinner.

Aleksandr_A 10.10.2013 - 10:05

KuQ
We are here talking about a technical possibility or impossibility. Here I am a theorist and I am looking for sound advice.

There is a technical capability. As is the EXPERIENCE of other people, which people share, and smart people take into account other people's mistakes. I would like to fill my own bumps - so no one minds, do as you decide.

oldr 10.10.2013 - 20:34

I have a drat in the booth and a warm floor and a heater - Drath does not complain or get sick.

Astol 10.10.2013 - 21:10

Accidentally came across this topic, I will not hide the love of dogs. So I'll tell you a little story that happened to me at the dacha of one large rank on Rublevka. I came with a brigade to regulate the automatic gates, well, they did the job, they cooked something up, twisted it up, the job was done. The owner comes up and says - And you are making a warm booth for the dog, there is material. We scratched our turnips and started. But one condition was that the booth would be a copy of the owner's house externally (ridiculous). Once we have undertaken to do it. Three hours of work and the booth is ready. We got 800 bucks for work. The booth was made on a whim, because there is no experience in booth building, but there was experience of working in a nursery in the army, something that has remained in my head since then. After a couple of times I came there, though another dog lived there, but everyone is happy, the dog winters perfectly. They insulated the truth, not sickly.
By the way, I also saw a booth with a cut-in triple-glazed window at one general, where a bitch with puppies spent the winter with him. I really don't know if there was heating there. In general, something like this.

oldr 10.10.2013 - 22:10

I'll take a picture of mine at the weekend. As long as I had a lattice, the dogs did not go there at all. I put in double-glazed windows - they are happy to lie and watch; Warm floor only where they sleep - and in the dressing room - just a heater;

evgen1981 10/11/2013 - 05:16

as it turns out, people even put double-glazed windows, but I thought I was the only one who was going crazy with a warm floor in a booth 😊

oldr 11.10.2013 - 08:31

Without a dog on the hunt - you are no one. Therefore, she must live in good conditions;

The sun is the source of life on the planet. Its rays provide the necessary light and warmth. At the same time, the ultraviolet radiation of the Sun is detrimental to all living things. To find a compromise between the beneficial and harmful properties of the sun, meteorologists calculate the index of ultraviolet radiation, which characterizes the degree of its danger.

What UV radiation from the Sun is

Ultraviolet radiation from the Sun has a wide range and is subdivided into three regions, two of which reach the Earth.

UV-A. Long-wavelength radiation range
315-400 nm

The rays pass almost freely through all atmospheric "barriers" and reach the Earth.
UV-B. Medium-wave range radiation
280-315 nm

The rays are 90% absorbed by the ozone layer, carbon dioxide and water vapor.
UV-C. Shortwave range radiation
100-280 nm

The most dangerous area. They are completely absorbed by stratospheric ozone before reaching the Earth.

The more ozone, clouds and aerosols in the atmosphere, the less the harmful effects of the Sun. However, these saving factors have a high natural variability. The annual maximum of stratospheric ozone is in the spring, and the minimum is in the fall. Cloudiness is one of the most variable characteristics of weather. The carbon dioxide content also changes all the time.

At what values of the UV index is there a danger

The UV Index gives an estimate of the amount of UV radiation from the Sun on the Earth's surface. UV Index values range from safe 0 to extreme 11+.

0 - 2 Low
3 - 5 Moderate
6 - 7 High
8 - 10 Very high
11+ Extreme

At mid-latitudes, the UV index approaches unsafe values (6–7) only at the maximum height of the Sun above the horizon (occurs in late June - early July). At the equator, the UV index reaches 9 ... 11+ points throughout the year.

Why the sun is useful

In small doses, UV radiation from the Sun is essential. The sun's rays synthesize melanin, serotonin, vitamin D necessary for our health, and prevent rickets.

Melanin creates a kind of protective barrier for skin cells from the harmful effects of the sun. Because of it, our skin darkens and becomes more elastic.

The hormone of happiness serotonin affects our well-being: it improves mood and increases overall vitality.

Vitamin D strengthens the immune system, stabilizes blood pressure and has antirachitis functions.

Why the sun is dangerous

Taking sun baths, it is important to understand that the line between beneficial and harmful Sun is very thin. Excessive tanning always borders on a burn. Ultraviolet radiation damages DNA in skin cells.

The body's defense system cannot cope with such an aggressive effect. It lowers immunity, damages the retina of the eyes, causes aging of the skin, and can lead to cancer.

Ultraviolet light destroys the DNA chain

How the sun affects people

Susceptibility to UV radiation depends on skin type. People of the European race are most sensitive to the Sun - for them protection is required already at index 3, and 6 is considered dangerous.

At the same time, for Indonesians and African Americans, this threshold is 6 and 8, respectively.

Who is most affected by the Sun

People with light
skin tone

People with many moles

Mid-latitude residents on holiday in the south

Winter lovers
fishing

Alpine skiers and climbers

People with a family history of skin cancer

In what weather is the sun more dangerous

It is a common misconception that the Sun is dangerous only in hot and clear weather. You can get burnt even in cool cloudy weather.

Cloudiness, no matter how dense it may be, does not at all reduce the amount of ultraviolet radiation to zero. In mid-latitudes, cloudiness significantly reduces the risk of sunburn, which is not the case with traditional beach destinations. For example, in the tropics, if in sunny weather you can get sunburned in 30 minutes, in cloudy weather - in a couple of hours.

How to protect yourself from the sun

To protect yourself from destructive rays, follow these simple rules:

Stay less in the Sun at midday hours

Wear light-colored clothing, including wide-brimmed hats

Use protective creams

Wear sunglasses

You are more in the shade on the beach

Which sunscreen to choose

Sunscreen varies in degree of sun protection and is labeled from 2 to 50+. The numbers indicate the proportion of solar radiation that overcomes the protection of the cream and reaches the skin.

For example, when applying a cream labeled 15, only 1/15 (or 7%) of the UV rays will penetrate the protective film. In the case of 50 cream - only 1/50, or 2%, affect the skin.

Sunscreen creates a reflective layer on the body. At the same time, it is important to understand that no cream is capable of reflecting 100% of ultraviolet radiation.

For everyday use, when the time spent in the sun does not exceed half an hour, a cream with protection 15 is quite suitable. For sunbathing on the beach, it is better to take 30 or more. However, for light-skinned people, it is recommended to use a cream labeled 50+.

How to apply sunscreen

The cream should be applied evenly to all exposed skin, including the face, ears and neck. If you plan to sunbathe long enough, then the cream should be applied twice: 30 minutes before going out and, additionally, before going to the beach.

Specify the required amount for application in the instructions of the cream.

How to apply sunscreen when swimming

Sunscreen should be applied every time you bathe. Water washes away the protective film and, reflecting the sun's rays, increases the dose of ultraviolet radiation received. Thus, when bathing, the risk of sunburn increases. However, due to the cooling effect, you may not feel the burn.

Excessive sweating and towel drying is also a reason to re-protect your skin.

It should be remembered that on the beach, even under an umbrella, the shade does not provide adequate protection. Sand, water and even grass reflect up to 20% of UV rays, increasing their effect on the skin.

How to protect your eyes

Sunlight bouncing off water, snow or sand can cause painful retinal burns. Use UV-filtered sunglasses to protect your eyes.

Danger to skiers and climbers

In the mountains, the atmospheric "filter" is thinner. For every 100 meters of altitude, the UV index increases by 5%.

Snow reflects up to 85% of UV rays. In addition, up to 80% of the ultraviolet reflected by the snow cover is again reflected by the clouds.

Thus, the Sun is most dangerous in the mountains. Protecting your face, lower chin and ears is essential even in cloudy weather.

How to deal with sunburn if you are burned

Sponge your body with a damp sponge to dampen the burn

Apply an anti-burn cream to the burned areas.

If the temperature rises, consult a doctor, you may be advised to take an antipyretic

If the burn is severe (the skin is very swollen and blistering), seek medical attention

The first question that the veterinarian asks during a telephone consultation is: "What is the dog's body temperature." Most cannot answer this question ... either they do not know how to measure, or they do not consider it necessary to do it, but in vain! We will figure out how and how to measure the temperature of a dog and what to do if there is no thermometer at hand.

Body temperature norms in dogs

These are the metrics every dog owner or volunteer should know by heart. The rate depends on the age and size of the dog.

Important! The indicators of the table are not an absolute truth, since the organism of each animal is individual.

Indicators are valid only when measuring rectally(the thermometer is placed in the anus). When measuring temperature with a non-contact or electronic thermometer in other areas of the body, the indicators can fluctuate greatly:

Orally (in the mouth)- distortion up to 0.3 ° downward.
Axillary (in the hollow under the fore or hind foot)- distortion up to 0.5 ° downward.

Determination of body temperature at a quick examination

No one (or almost no one) carries a thermometer in their pocket just in case. Having found a dog that visually needs help, you need to focus on your own feelings.

To determine the level of body temperature (high / low) Feel the dog's upper and lower gums, under the tongue. If you feel your gums are cold, this is bad. If it's hot, it's also no good, but chances are there. Normally, you will feel a little warmth as the body temperature of dogs is higher than that of humans.

Altruists can take risks determine the temperature in the anus finger, provided that the dog is large and very (!) calm / immobilized, and the palms are small. Please note that only you will be responsible for the unexpected consequences of the "invasion", be careful and careful!

Important! Do not be guided by the dryness and moisture of the nose, this is important if the dog has a strong and prolonged fever! At low temperatures, the nose will be cold and even wet (which is rumored to be an indicator of good health).

Types of thermometers - advantages and errors

So, thermometers differ in the type of recording body temperature and the way they are used:

Mercury- the familiar glass thermometer. An invincible technology with one drawback, the correctness of the measurement can be said only after 7-10 minutes of holding the dog with a thermometer in the bottom (believe me, this is not easy, especially if the dog does not know you).
Electronic (rectal) Is a great breakthrough in temperature measurement and a great option for dog lovers. And yes, such a thermometer is intended only for rectal measurement of temperature in people, that is, only through "its very" device gives correct results.
Ultrasound and IF (ultrasonic, infrared)- great joke, but only for people! Originally, the thermometer was invented to measure the body temperature of sleeping babies.
Ear- can be used for dogs, but in case of otitis media or other diseases of the ears, the result will be very incorrect.
Oral- not suitable for dogs.

Have you noticed that none of the thermometers are designed to measure the temperature in the armpit? This method is used, but it is not the ultimate truth. Separately, it is worth noting the devices designed for the examination of animals:

Veterinary thermometer electronic- yes, it exists, convenience in an extended range - from 32 to 45 °. The measurement is done quickly enough, when the result is ready, the device beeps. There are no special nuances, the temperature is measured rectally, some devices even have a built-in memory. The cost of the accessory starts at $ 10.
Veterinary thermometer infrared- oh yes, there is such a thing too. The cost from $ 50, judging by the reviews, is not suitable for all dogs and owners. Cheap devices lie solidly, and there are unexpected conditions in the technical characteristics of expensive ones.

How to measure your dog's body temperature

The procedure is not pleasant, at least for an animal, but the body temperature of a dog or a puppy is the first line of any anamnesis, even a very meek one. The method for measuring temperature in a dog is unified and tested empirically. Regardless of the type of device, the measurement is performed rectally (anal) and only if ovulation is detected in bitches, it can be performed vaginally.

If the anus is damaged and the measurement is impossible, they are guided by the situation (usually measured in the cavity between the abdomen and thigh).

Lay the dog to one side and fix it no matter how calm she is. For a dog in whose obedience you are sure, the measurement can be carried out while standing.
If you are performing the procedure for the first time and are not sure about the reaction of the animal, tie the mouth with a gauze cut or put on a muzzle.
The tip of the thermometer must be lubricated (petroleum jelly, cream, linseed oil) ... and you should not regret the lubrication.
Calmly, without trembling in the hands, but without jerking, insert the thermometer into the anus of the dog.
We place the thermometer not very deep, approximately as shown in the photo and wait.

Monitor the process without removing the thermometer (if measuring with mercury). When the bar has stopped crawling actively (about 3 minutes), you can already judge the temperature level. For accurate measurement, you need to wait 7–8 minutes.