Waterproof fabric for clothing and equipment of a hunter is not a luxury, but a necessary attribute. You can make a waterproof fabric yourself, and already from it you can sew a tent, a hunting backpack, a cape. There are several ways to impregnate fabric with water-repellent compounds: chemical compounds, wax, paraffin, oil solution, casein, carpentry, fish glue, etc.
Chemical Compositions
The fabric of the chemical treatment field does not become completely waterproof.
That is, pores remain between the fibers, due to which the fabric "breathes". But yourself
the threads do not absorb moisture. Therefore, for better waterproofing, it is recommended
use a thick cloth. When setting up a tent made of "chemical" fabric, the angle
the slope of the walls should be more than 35 ° - in this case, the water will roll down.
However, other things should not adjoin the walls, otherwise they will absorb
moisture through micropores between fibers. By the way, after treatment with chemical
with the compounds, the fabric becomes more fire-resistant. Chemical compositions are excellent for
impregnation of ropes, sling. This method does not make the fabric heavier, but to preserve
the effect of waterproofness, fabrics must be processed annually.
- Lead and alum impregnation is considered the most
effective. The fabric does not rot for a long time and hardly burns. Separately in three
liters of water are diluted with 75-150 g of alum and 75-150 g of lead acetate.
The proportions must be the same. When the solutions have settled, we merge them into one
separating the capacity from the sediment and again defend. Attention! The composition is unsafe,
therefore we take precautions. In this solution, the selected tissue
soaked for about a day. Then we take out the fabric and without wringing it out, we hang it
dry. - Dissolve half a kilo of household water in five liters of hot water
soap. Soak the fabric in soapy water. While it is soaking, dissolve in
five liters of 0.5-1 kg of potash-aluminum alum. We take out the fabric from the soap
solution, slightly squeeze and place in a solution of alum. In 12 hours we get it
and dry without wringing. - To make waterproof slings, ropes, fishing nets
it is enough for five days to hold them in a solution of copper sulfate. Solution: 300 g vitriol
for 12 liters of water. Then we dry the ropes and additionally rinse them in soapy water. After
chemical treatment products become more durable and do not rot. - In five liters of hot water dissolve 450 g of rosin, 250 g
soda and 0.5 kg of laundry soap. We saturate fabrics, ropes and dry them. - Dissolve 450 g of alum in 2.5 l of hot water. Then add
another 9.5 liters of water at room temperature. We soak the fabrics for about a day. We take out and
wrung out. Then we put 220 g of lead sugar in a solution for 6 hours
(lead acetate) in nine liters of water. We dry it. - For tents: dissolve 110 g of alum and 280 g of quicklime in 12 liters of water
lime. We soak the fabric for 12 hours. Dry without wringing. - The following composition makes the fabric waterproof and dyes in
protective green. For several hours, the fabric is placed in a 40% solution.
laundry soap. Squeeze lightly and place in a 20% solution of copper
vitriol. Dry the fabric without wringing.
Impregnation with wax,
paraffin, oil
The plastic composition not only covers the threads, but also fills
the space between them. The fabric becomes a single fabric that does not pass through
no water, no air. It hardens in winter. As it becomes very heavy,
such fabrics are mainly used for
sewing or outer sheathing of backpacks, bags, sleeping bags, for the floor of the tent.
When using oils, the fabric becomes flammable. Protective covering
lasts for several years.
- The most basic way is to stretch the fabric on the table and
rub it with paraffin. Iron to fill the pores better. - A more effective way: dissolve 0.5 kg of paraffin in 4 liters
turpentine. To do this, turpentine is heated in a water bath and poured into it
molten paraffin. While the mixture is hot, cover the fabric with it. - Dissolve 100 g of glycerin, 300 g of petroleum jelly and 300 g of paraffin in
two liters of gasoline. We keep the fabric in the solution for half an hour. When impregnating and drying
beware of fire! - 130 g of umber and 150 g of lead oxide (litharge) are placed in 11 liters
flaxseed oil and cook for two hours, stirring regularly. Rub the stretched
the cloth. - Composition of impregnation for felt: mix 10 g of wax, 70 g
kerosene, 70 g of linseed oil, 30 g of turpentine. We heat the mixture in a water bath
and apply a thin layer to the felt. Felt dries for a long time. - Put 200 g of wax (or paraffin) in a metal container and
pour 1 kg of drying oil. Heat gently until everything dissolves. Without bringing
until boiling, but maintaining a high temperature with a low fire, dip in the composition
wide brush and paint over the fabric. This compound is ideal for processing fabrics
tents, especially seams. - Linseed oil preserves the fabric well. It is boiled. Then
hands, while warm, rub the fabric vigorously. Consumption: 0.25 l of oil per 1 m3
canvases. Dried in the fresh air until the smell disappears completely. - To make a rough canvas or canvas waterproof,
it is enough to mix petroleum jelly and talc in equal proportions and grate well
the cloth. - To impregnate the canvas fabric, prepare the following composition: two
hours boil 300 g of wax in 7.5 kg of linseed oil.
Adhesives
Impregnations made of casein, fish and wood glue are suitable for
impregnation of clothes and tents. The fabric becomes dense, but light enough.
- Soak the fabric in a warm solution of 1 liter
water, 10 g of potassium dichromate, 10 g of acetic acid and 100 g of wood glue.
After soaking, we hang the fabric to dry without wringing it out. - In a liter of warm water, dissolve 10 g of soap from animal fats,
20 g of fish glue and 40 g of alum. Soak the fabric, wring it out and rinse it in 4%
lead acetate solution. - Separately dissolve 50 g of fish glue, 10 g of soap in
200 ml of warm water, 10 g of alum in 300 ml of water. Then we mix and heat everything.
The composition is applied with a clothing brush on the stretched fabric from the inside until
the outside will not get wet. - Separately dissolve 12 g of slaked lime in 0.5 l of water
and 0.5 kg of milk casein; in 3 liters of water 25 g of neutral soap. We mix the solutions.
After soaking, the fabric is dried. Then it is additionally soaked in 2%
a solution of aluminum acetate (2 g per 100 ml of water). After that we take out the fabric
and rinse in hot water. We dry it.
To avoid fire when heating flammable substances
(turpentine, gasoline, etc.), use a water bath. That is, a container with the composition
put in hot water, not on open fire!
- Technical paraffin can be replaced with ordinary household wax
candles. - To impregnate the tent, the protective compound can be made less concentrated,
than for cloth clothing. - To protect the seams of the tent, it is enough to coat with rubber
glue. - It is better to dissolve soap in hot water, after cutting
into small pieces or grind. - When immersing fabrics, ropes, slings, nets in solutions
it is necessary to ensure that they are completely saturated. To do this, it is recommended to wear
squeeze rubber gloves and a cloth with your hands to remove air bubbles.
How to make tents, sails, awnings, backpacks, raincoats - waterproof
Method 1: Tents and sails, awnings and backpacks can be made waterproof if they are treated with a special solution. Dissolve 250 g of casein glue, stirring, in 0.75 l of water and add 12 g of ground lime. Then 15 g of laundry soap is diluted in 1.5 liters of water and soapy water is poured into the first solution. The fabric is immersed in the resulting liquid or thoroughly moistened, then dried well. In this way, any dense fabric can be impregnated, and it will become waterproof.
Method 2: Tourist clothing, tents, raincoats made of cotton or linen are treated with water-repellent impregnation. To do this, prepare a solution of 125 g of gelatin, 125 g of laundry soap, 300 g of alum, 8 liters of water. It is necessary to boil all this, stirring thoroughly, and cool. Then soak things in this solution for 1-2 hours. After that, carefully straighten the soaked things, and without squeezing, hang to dry. Iron them slightly damp.
Method 3: A good result is obtained by impregnating the material with natural linseed oil. But this method takes much longer, since sometimes 3-4 weeks are required for the drying oil to completely dry, and the impregnation must be repeated at least 2 times. So you can resort to this method when you have 2-3 months in stock.
Method 4: How to make fabric waterproof? You need to take 160 g of soap and dissolve in a little hot water. In another bowl, melt 40 g of paraffin and pour it into a soapy solution, stirring occasionally. Then gradually add hot water to a liter. The resulting emulsion is diluted with three liters of hot water. A cloth is dipped into a solution (70 ° C) and kept there for about an hour. Then the fabric is wrung out, dipped in a solution of potassium alum (100 g per 1 liter of water) for an hour, squeezed again, rinsed in warm and cold water, dried and ironed with a hot iron.
Method 5: In 3 liters of water, dissolve with gentle stirring, 100 g of sound soap (best of all for children), heating the solution to 60-70 ° C. The processed material is immersed in a warm solution. After 20-30 minutes it is taken out, lightly rinsed with cold water and immersed for 20-30 minutes in a warm 8-10% solution of potassium alum. Then the material is again well rinsed in cold water, again immersed in a warm soap solution for 10-15 minutes, then put in an alum solution for 10-15 minutes.
With this treatment, insoluble aluminum soap is formed in the pores of the material. The first time the material is rinsed with water so that the aluminum soap settles inside the material, otherwise it will linger on the surface and further access of alum inside will stop. The second time is washed with water to remove excess alum, then dried.
Method 6: Parachute nylon (a common material for tourist homemade products) can be made waterproof by soaking it with a solution of polyvinyl chloride in cyclohexanone or tetrahydrofuran.
To prepare the impregnation, take 70-100 g of finely cut polyvinyl chloride (color can be used) and place it in 1 liter of solvent for 2-3 days. The fabric to be impregnated is dipped in the solution, removed and dried on stretchers.
By repeating the impregnation several times, it is possible to obtain a fabric with different properties: from those similar to calendered nylon to those close to rubberized. To restore the impregnation properties, damaged areas of fabric or seams are re-coated with a solution of vinyl chloride. You should have it in your travel repair kit. Please note that the solvent is flammable and has a strong odor. You need to work with him outdoors or under traction, wearing rubber gloves.
Method 7: If you do not have the necessary fabric for your tent or rain cover, you can make one out of cotton fabric by processing it as follows. Soak a clean cloth in a hot (70-80 ° C) solution of 30 g of laundry soap in 1 liter of water. The fabric is then wrung out four times and dried. The dried cloth is placed in a solution of aluminum chloride (concentration 20 g / 1 l) so that it is immersed, but not compacted, and kept there for 25 minutes, after which it is wrung out and dried. It is advisable to repeat this operation. The fabric treated with soap and salts is impregnated with a paraffin emulsion. The emulsion is prepared as follows: for 200 g of molten paraffin, take 20 g of laundry soap dissolved in 675 g of water. Pour the soap solution into the molten paraffin. Then add a solution of wood glue at the rate of 5 g per 100 g of water. Heat the mixture to 90 ° С, mix thoroughly and cool to room temperature. Apply the resulting emulsion to the fabric in a thin layer, dry the fabric and iron it with an iron at 80-120 ° C. The fabric treated in this way will serve for at least two years. If the water resistance is broken, it can be restored again.
Method 8: Free the inner film from the broken glass triplex, dissolve in solvent no. 647 (18 g of film per bottle of solvent). There are five bottles on the tent. Spread the resulting composition with a brush on a stretched parachute silk and let it dry in the wind.
You can check the quality of the impregnation as follows. Place a piece of cloth on a saucepan with the cloth hanging down and gently pour a glass of water onto the surface. If the water-repellent impregnation is good, then no water droplets will appear on the back of the fabric and the fabric itself will not absorb it.
Waterproof travel suit
The touring cotton suit can be converted into a waterproof suit. Dissolve 20 grams of lead acetate in three liters of water. Separately, in the same amount of water, dissolve 40 grams of alum. Mix both solutions and filter. Then put a suit in this cleaned mixture of solutions for several hours. After drying, it will become waterproof, and retain its air permeability.
How to make clothes waterproof
Dissolve 300 g of borax in 2 liters of water, add 120 g of Glauber's salt and 80 g of dextrin. Stir - and the composition is ready.
Soak your sportswear (or whatever you wear when you go fishing or picking mushrooms) in it, it should be well saturated with the solution. Do not wring it out, just hang it up. When the water is drained and the clothes are dry, iron them with a hot iron. Such a suit will not get wet for a long time even in heavy rain.
How to make your shoes waterproof
1. Dissolve yellow beeswax in gasoline until saturation, heat the solution in a water bath and add 1/10 weight part of the melted spermacet. Melt in a water bath before use and apply to dry and slightly heated skin.
2. Mix 50 wt. hours of melted lamb fat, 49 wt. h. flaxseed oil and 1 wt. h. turpentine. Apply to dry, heated skin.
3. Melt a mixture (by weight) of paraffin, wax, rosin (2: 3: 1), add 1 weight. including powder of clay-kaolin.
Any fabric can be made water-repellent and suitable for making the covering of a kayak, awning, tent. The fabric is carefully smoothed with an iron. A bag is made of two layers of ironed fabric and a PVC film laid between them and ironed with an iron heated to 120-130 °. After the material has cooled, it is rubbed with technical wax and ironed again. The fabric is not only waterproof, but also airtight. In order for these properties to be preserved in finished products, their seams must be wiped with wax and ironed.
Waxed cotton -Barbour international
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waxed_cotton
Chemical method.
By impregnating the fabric with various "chemicals" we essentially process the threads themselves, affect their properties. Between the threads there are "pores" that allow the clothes to "breathe". Therefore, in order to achieve the maximum effect, it is necessary to take a very dense fabric. According to rumors that we have not personally verified, the fabric after such processing becomes more fire-resistant.
The only disadvantage of such processing is the need to repeat the processing at least once a year.
So, one of the "recipes" is the use of soap and rope. We take half a kilogram of laundry soap, dissolve this heap in 5 liters of hot water. We throw our fabric into this "soup" so that it is thoroughly soaked. At this time, we take another 5 liters of water and potash-aluminum alum from half a kilogram to 1 kg. Well, for yourself, of course, you can take another half liter of something like that, but this is not for everybody =) We sipped half a liter of juice and took our fabric out of the soap solution. We squeeze out a little and lower it into the alum solution. We soak it there for about 12 hours. Then we take out and dry without wringing.
If it is necessary to make ropes, nets, slings waterproof, then it is enough to soak them for five to six days in a solution of copper sulfate. How to cook this bumblebee? We take 300 g of vitriol and dissolve it in 12 liters of water. After soaking, take out, dry and rinse in soapy water. After such processing, our ropes become stronger and more resistant to decay.
How can you make yourself a waterproof tent? Very simple! Bodyajim in 12 liters of water 110 g of alum, 280 g of quicklime. We soak our fabric in this broth for 12 hours. We take out and dry without squeezing.
Another option for impregnating the fabric: dissolve 450 g of alum in 2.5 liters of hot water. Then add another 9.5 liters of water at room temperature. We run a cloth into our solution and soak it for a day. At the end of this period, we remove our fabric, squeeze it slightly and place it for 6 hours in the following solution: 220 g of lead sugar (lead acetate) diluted in 9 liters of water. Then we take out the fabric and dry it.
Well, for lovers of everything army and green. The following composition makes the fabric waterproof and dyes it in a protective green color. For several hours, the fabric is placed in a 40% solution of laundry soap. Squeeze lightly and place in a 20% solution of copper sulfate. Dry the fabric without wringing.
And the most kosher alum-based recipe is:
impregnation with lead acetate and alum. The fabric becomes very, very refractory and does not rot for a long time. Separately, 75-150 g of alum and 75-150 g of lead acetate are diluted in three liters of water (the proportions should be the same). We put these bottles to settle. When the solutions dissolve, we pour them into one large container, separating them from the sediment and again defend. Soak our fabric in the resulting solution for about a day. Next, we take out the fabric and hang it to dry, without squeezing!
Wax-paraffin-oil impregnation.
Such impregnation makes the fabric much heavier, because the plastic composition not only covers the threads, but also fills the spaces ("pores") between them. The fabric accordingly ceases to pass both water and air. It hardens at low temperatures. Moreover, another significant drawback appears - the fabric becomes fire hazardous when using oils. Considering all these disadvantages, a similar method is best used for processing the outer skin of backpacks, bags, sleeping bags, for the floor of the tent.
The easiest way is to stretch the fabric on a flat surface (like a table) and rub it with paraffin. To make everything more Orthodox, iron it. Then the melted paraffin will fill the space between the threads.
A better way is to dissolve 0.5 kg of paraffin in 4 liters of turpentine. Ahtung! Ahtung! Turpentine is heated only in a water bath and melted paraffin is poured into it. You should not heat turpentine on the fire =) While our mixture is hot, cover the existing fabric with it.
Next, we move on to more dangerous (from the point of view of Russian laws) reagents. 100 g of glycerin (which seems to be prohibited for sale in pharmacies), 300 g of petroleum jelly and 300 g of paraffin are dissolved in 2 liters of gasoline. We soak our fabric for half an hour in the resulting solution. Dry better in the fresh air away from open fire.
To impregnate the felt, you can use the following mixture: "mix" 10 g of wax, 70 g of kerosene, 70 g of linseed oil (now the knife-makers shuddered reverently), 30 g of turpentine. We heat the mixture in a water bath and apply a thin layer to the felt. And then we take a steam bath to wait for this damn felt to dry =)
A more brutal method - put 200 g of wax or paraffin in a metal bottle-jar-canister, pour 1 kg of drying oil. Then we heat it up until everything dissolves. We do not bring to a boil, but we maintain a constant high temperature of the mixture! Next, we pretend to be Pipiskasso and apply the mixture to the fabric with a brush. Great for seams.
Linseed oil preserves fabric well (by the way, wood too, only the method is different). It is boiled. Then hands, while warm, rub the fabric vigorously. Consumption: 0.25 l of oil per 1 m2 of canvas. Dried in the fresh air until the smell disappears completely.
If we need to make waterproof canvas or other rough fabric, it is enough to mix petroleum jelly and talcum 50-50 and rub the fabric carefully.
For the tarpaulin, the doctor prescribed the following composition for us: boil 300 g of wax in 7.5 kg of linseed oil for two hours.
Well, we come to the last method, toxicomaniac -
Adhesives.
Clothes, tents and capes can be treated with casein, fish and carpentry adhesives. Such fabric becomes dense and light enough.
Namba solution 1: 10 g of potassium dichromate, 10 g of acetic acid and 100 g of wood glue in one liter of water. Soak the fabric in it. Then we hang out to dry, without spinning.
In a liter of warm water, dissolve 10 g of animal fat soap, 20 g of fish glue and 40 g of alum. We soak the cloth, wring it out and rinse it in a 4% solution of lead acetate.
Separately dissolve 50 g of fish glue, 10 g of soap in 200 ml of warm water, 10 g of alum in 300 ml of water. Then we mix and heat everything. The composition is applied with a clothing brush on the stretched fabric from the inside until the outside is wet.
Separately, dissolve 12 g of slaked lime and 0.5 kg of milk casein in 0.5 l of water; in 3 liters of water 25 g of neutral soap. We mix the solutions. After soaking, the fabric is dried. Then it is additionally soaked in a 2% solution of aluminum acetate (2 g per 100 ml of water). After that, we take out the fabric and rinse it in hot water. We dry it.
For example, you can use more ruthless rubber adhesives to create a waterproof tarpaulin awning.
We mix glue-88 and aviation gasoline (well, of course, if we can get such a wild rarity) in a 1 to 1 ratio and soak our tarp. Some advise using solvent gasoline instead of aviation BR.
What can be learned from the good old Soviet journalism on our topic:
1. 160 g of soap is dissolved in a little hot water. In another container, melt 40 g of paraffin and pour it into a soapy solution, stirring occasionally. Then gradually add hot water to a liter. The resulting emulsion is diluted with three liters of hot water. A cloth is dipped into a solution (70 ° C) and kept there for about an hour. Then the fabric is wrung out, dipped in a solution of potassium alum (100 g per 1 liter of water) for an hour, squeezed again, rinsed in warm and cold water, dried and ironed with a hot iron ( "Chemistry and Life", 1969, no. 12, p. 67).
2. The touring cotton suit can be converted into a waterproof one. Dissolve 20 g of lead acetate in 3 liters of water. Separately, dissolve 40 g of alum (potassium alum, KAl (SO4) 2) in the same amount of water. Mix both solutions and filter. Then put a suit in this refined mixture for a few hours. After drying, it will become waterproof, and retain its air permeability ( "Science and Life, 1973, No. 5, p. 156).
3. Parachute nylon - a common material for tourist homemade products - can be made waterproof by soaking it with a solution of polyvinyl chloride in cyclohexanone or tetrahydrofuran. To prepare the impregnation, 70-100 g of finely chopped polyvinyl chloride (color can be used) is placed in 1 liter of solvent for two, three days. The fabric to be impregnated is dipped in the solution, removed and dried on stretchers. By repeating the impregnation several times, it is possible to obtain a fabric with different properties: from those similar to calendered nylon to those close to rubberized. To restore the impregnation properties, damaged areas of fabric or seams are re-coated with a solution of vinyl chloride. You should have it in your travel repair kit. Please note that the solvent is flammable and has a strong odor. You need to work with him outdoors or under traction, wearing rubber gloves ( "Tourist", 1984, no. 11, p. fourteen).
4. If you do not have the necessary fabric for your tent or rain cover, you can make one out of cotton fabric by processing it as follows. Soak a clean cloth in a hot (70-80 ° C) solution of 30 g of laundry soap in 1 liter of water. The fabric is then wrung out four times and dried. The dried cloth is placed in a solution of aluminum chloride (concentration 20 g / l) so that it is completely immersed, but not compacted, and kept there for 25 minutes, after which it is wrung out and dried. It is advisable to repeat this operation. The fabric treated with soap and salts is impregnated with a paraffin emulsion. The emulsion is prepared as follows: for 200 g of molten paraffin, take 20 g of laundry soap dissolved in 675 g of water. Pour the soap solution into the molten paraffin. Then add a solution of wood glue at the rate of 5 g per 100 g of water. Heat the mixture to 90 ° С, mix thoroughly and cool to room temperature. Apply the resulting emulsion to the fabric in a thin layer, dry the fabric and iron it with an iron at 80-120 ° C. The fabric processed in this way will serve for at least two years. If the water resistance is broken, it can be restored again ( "Fish farming and fishing", 1971, no. 4, p. 29).
5. A good result is obtained by impregnating the material with natural linseed oil. But this method takes much longer, since it sometimes takes a good three to four weeks to completely dry the drying oil, and the impregnation must be repeated at least two times. So, you should resort to this method only when there are two or three months in stock ( "Fish farming and fishing", 1982, No. 6, p. 24).
6. Tents and sails, awnings and backpacks can be made waterproof if they are treated with a special solution. Dissolve 250 g of casein glue, stirring, in 0.75 l of water and add 12 g of ground lime. Then 13 g of laundry soap is diluted in 1.5 l of water and soapy water is poured into the first solution. The fabric is immersed in the resulting liquid or thoroughly moistened, then dried well. Thus, any dense fabric can be impregnated, and it will become waterproof ( "Fisherman", 1985, no. 2, p. 42).
7. In 3 liters of water, dissolve with gentle stirring, 100 g of sound soap (best of all for children), heating the solution to 60-70 ° C. The material to be processed is immersed in a warm solution. After 20-30 minutes it is taken out, lightly rinsed with cold water and immersed for 20-30 minutes in a warm 8-10% solution of potassium alum. Then the material is again well rinsed in cold water, again immersed in a warm soap solution for 10-15 minutes, then put in an alum solution for 10-15 minutes. With this treatment, insoluble aluminum soap is formed in the pores of the material. The first time the material is rinsed with water so that the aluminum soap settles inside the material, otherwise it will linger on the surface and further access of alum inside will stop. Rinse a second time with water to remove excess alum, then dry ( V. Sabunaev. "Sports fishing". L. Lenizdat, 1957).
8. Free the inner film from the broken glass triplex, dissolve in solvent no. 647 (18 g of film per bottle of solvent). There are five bottles on the tent. Spread the resulting composition with a brush on a stretched parachute silk and let it dry in the wind (from the reader's letter).
You can check the quality of the impregnation as follows. Place a piece of cloth on a saucepan with the cloth hanging down and gently pour a glass of water onto the surface. If the water-repellent impregnation is good, then water drops will not appear on the back of the fabric, and the fabric itself will not absorb it ( "Chemistry and Life", 1967, no. 9, p. 90).
Article in f. "Chemistry and Life" No. 5, 1987, pp. 58-59.
Waterproof fabric can be made in one of the following ways ( according to S. V. Obruchev "Traveler's Guide"):
1. Put the cloth in warm soapy water (500 g of soap for 4 liters of water). Then squeeze it out and immerse it in a saturated solution of alum (potassium alum, KAl (SO4) 2). Even better, add 25 g of linen soda and 450 g of rosin powder to the soap solution.
2. Put the cloth in a 40% solution of laundry soap and, when it is soaked, take it out and immerse it in a 20% solution of copper sulfate. Then dry (the fabric turns green).
3. Mix a solution of lead acetic acid (30 g per 1 l of water) and a solution of aluminum sulfate (21 g per 0.35 l of water), shake and strain through muslin. Then put the fabric in this mixture for a quarter of an hour and dry without squeezing.
4. Soak a cloth in a solution of 100 parts water, 4 parts alum (potassium alum, KAl (SO4) 2), 2 parts fish glue and 1 part laundry soap. Then wring out the cloth and rinse it in 4% lead acetate solution.
Chapter from the book: L. A. Erlykin, "Fisherman's Laboratory".
IN AND. Gromov, G.A. Vasiliev
The top plans of tents and tarps are made of fabrics impregnated with waterproof or combined (waterproof and anti-rot) impregnation. During use, tents and tarps gradually lose their properties and begin to get wet. There are three methods of impregnation for better preservation.
The first way
The first is with the help of chemical compounds. With this treatment of the fabric, its threads become impervious to water, but the gaps between them are not filled. This is how denser fabrics are processed, thereby increasing their fire resistance. A well-stretched tent made of impregnated fabric with an inclination angle of at least 35 ° does not allow water to pass through. But if the things lying in the tent come into contact with the fabric, then water penetrates through the pores, and they get wet. Impregnation should be renewed every year if the travel season is long and it rains a lot. Chemical methods can also be used to impregnate ropes (slings) so that they do not get wet or rot.
Second way
The second method is to impregnate the fabric with an oil or wax-like composition that fills all the gaps. As a result, it becomes completely impervious to air and water, but at the same time, heavy and flammable, and at low temperatures - not flexible. Sparks falling on fabric can easily burn through or even start a fire. This method of impregnation is applied to fabrics used mainly for the floor of a tent, the inner lining of a sleeping bag, sheathing of pack sacks and bags, sometimes backpacks. With careful handling of the fabric, the impregnation remains for several years.
The third, intermediate, way
The third, intermediate, method is impregnation with compounds containing fish or wood glue or casein. As a result, the fabrics become dense and suitable for making both clothes and tents, as well as light-weight floors (for example, a recipe with wood glue).
The following are general rules that apply to all methods. When immersed in a solution, you need to ensure that the entire fabric is completely saturated (for this it is recommended to knead it with your hands). The soap solution is made in hot water, and the soap is pre-cut into small pieces and ground. All chemicals are ground and must be dissolved without residue. Water is needed soft, without large mineral impurities. In the case of chemical impregnation, after drying, a white coating remains, which is then washed off by rain or erased during transportation. It is recommended to coat the seams of the tents with rubber glue. To impregnate tents, you can take less concentrated solutions than for clothes. When making solutions in gasoline, turpentine, etc. use a water bath (during impregnation, so that the mixture does not cool down, hot water is poured into the outer vessel). Instead of paraffin, you can take ordinary candles.
Chemical formulations using readily available chemicals
Dissolve 500 g of laundry soap in 5 liters of hot water. Saturate fabric well, squeeze lightly. Without drying it, immerse it for a while in a solution of ordinary (potassium-aluminum) alum (500 g per 5 liters of water, for a stronger impregnation, 1000 g or a saturated solution is taken). Dry without wringing.
Dissolve 450 g of laundry soap in 4.5 liters of hot water, add 250 g of linen soda and 450 g of rosin powder. The fabric processing procedure is the same. Both of these methods are good, but the first is simpler and faster (it is suitable, in particular, for impregnating networks).
One of the simplest and most effective ways to add fire-resistant properties to fabrics is impregnation with alum and lead sugar (lead acetate). In one dish 150 g of lead sugar is diluted in 3 liters of water, in another in the same volume - 150 g of ordinary alum (or another option - 75 g of both products for the same amount of water). Then it is necessary to settle these solutions and drain them together, separating them from the sediment. Let the mixture stand for several hours, and when the liquid becomes transparent, drain it, separating it from the sediment. In this liquid, soak the fabric overnight or even a day, and then dry without wringing. Since the composition is poisonous, the dishes should be boiled well and washed.
Dissolve 400 g of alum in 2.25 liters of boiling water, add 9.125 liters of water. Soak the fabric in this solution for a day, and then squeeze it slightly and immerse it for 5-6 hours in another solution: 225 g of lead sugar, poured in 9.125 liters of water.
Dip the fabric in a 40% solution of laundry soap, squeeze it slightly and immerse it in a 15 - 20% solution of copper sulfate. Dry without wringing. The fabric is dyed green.
In a solution (285 g of quicklime and 115 g of alum per 12.3 liters of water), keep the fabric for 12 hours, and then dry it without wringing. This fabric is used for tents.
Soak fabrics, ropes, slings, nets for four to five days in a solution of copper sulfate (300 g per 12 liters), then dry and rinse in soapy water. This will protect them from decay and give them extra strength.
Oil and paraffin formulations
Dissolve 300 g of paraffin, 300 g of petroleum jelly, 100 g of glycerin in 2 liters of gasoline (heated in a water bath). Immerse the fabric in the hot solution for 25-30 minutes. Keep away from fire during impregnation and drying.
Heat 1 kg of drying oil and 200 g of paraffin or wax over the fire until they dissolve. Constantly heating this mixture, but not bringing it to a boil, smear the tent with a wide brush, especially its seams, and then dry it.
7.5 kg of linseed oil and 300 g of wax (or 2.450 kg and 80 g) are boiled for 2 hours. The mixture is intended for impregnating tarpaulins.
Cook 150 g of litter (lead oxide), 130 g of umber and 11 flaxseed oil with constant stirring for 2 hours, and then spread the stretched canvas with a hot mass.
Mix equal proportions of talcum powder with unrefined petroleum jelly, spread on a cloth (rough canvas, canvas) and rub in well.
Rub the paraffin into the fabric stretched on a smooth surface (table, etc.), and then iron it with an iron, but another method is more effective - dissolve 450-500 g of paraffin in 3.8 liters of turpentine, heat the turpentine in a water bath, then pour in there is molten paraffin. Apply the hot mixture to a stretched fabric
A good result is achieved by rubbing in boiled linseed oil. This should be done with your hands, and very energetically. To impregnate 1 m2 of fabric, you need about 0.25 liters of oil. It must be dried in the fresh air until the smell disappears.
To get a water-impermeable felt, you need to make a mixture of 70 g of linseed oil, 70 g of kerosene, 30 g of turpentine and 10 g of wax, heat it in a water bath, and then apply a thin layer on the felt and smooth until it is saturated. It takes a long time to dry the felt. It is not recommended to use kerosene and glazoline for impregnating fabrics, since they are made inelastic.
Adhesives and casein compositions
Make three solutions (50 g of fish glue in hot water; 10 g of alum in 0.3 l of water; and g of white soap in 0.15-0.20 l) and mix together. Apply the heated mixture with a cloth or brush to the cloth. For clothes, you can take equal parts of all three ingredients; the composition is applied from the inside until the outside becomes wet.
Dissolve 40 g of alum, 20 g of fish glue and 10 g of white soap in 1 liter of water, wet a cloth, squeeze out and rinse in a 4% solution of lead acetate.
Add a hot solution of 25 g of neutral soap to 3 liters of water to a mixture of 500 g of milk casein, 12 g of slaked lime and 0.5 l of water. In this mixture, it is necessary to soak the fabric well, dry it, then place it for a while in a 2% solution of aluminum acetate (2 g per 0.1 l). Remove, immerse in boiling water and then dry.
Wet the cloth in a hot solution consisting of 100 g of wood glue, 10 g of acetic acid, 10 g of potassium dichromate, 0.9 liters of water. Dry without wringing.
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