Hello dear readers!
In a greenhouse, where the beds are small, you can make them from natural river sand. This agricultural technique involves replacing the fertile humus layer with a sandy substrate, which excludes the contamination of crops with pathogenic strains of soil fungi and the production of environmentally friendly vegetables. How to conduct growing vegetables in the sand we will talk in this article.
Sand beds have several advantages over soil cultivation:
Vegetables grown in this way contain less nitrates, but more vitamins, minerals, sugars and organic acids;
The sand is inert and neutral in a chemical sense, has high air permeability;
It can contain more than a third of moisture by volume, retains water well;
Long-lasting substrate that does not require replacement.
In rare cases, beds of sand are made in open ground, but their arrangement must be approached as seriously as possible, because there is a high probability of their erosion and infection with soil pathogenic bacteria.
Sand bed preparation
To arrange the beds, a small pit is dug up to the height of a shovel bayonet, or side walls are erected from boards, slate or plastic agro tape on the soil surface. The sides and bottom are covered with plastic wrap with several holes to drain excess moisture. A layer of river sand is poured into boxes or a trench is filled, which is previously spilled with boiling water and washed with a nutrient solution. Instead of boiling water, it is more effective to disinfect sand with a solution of hydrogen peroxide or potassium permanganate, if available on the farm. The available nutrient solution is dry sodium humate, which is diluted according to the indicated instructions and abundantly soaked in sand ridges after disinfection.
Such a bed does not require an annual replacement of sand, but after harvesting, a thorough cleaning of the root residues of the grown vegetation is carried out and the layers are mixed. If necessary, add fresh, disinfected sand for later use.
Plant care
Seedlings for sand beds are grown in the same substrate that is already 
guarantees greater protection against the defeat of young seedlings by strains of the fungus "black leg" and root rot.
Under such conditions, not only vegetables are cultivated, but also greens, root crops or ornamental crops. Caring for plants when growing vegetables in sand is no different from caring for growing in soil: there is only one difference - in the sand and if fertilizing is correct, the plants vegetate faster by a week, including early maturity.
Tomatoes and cucumbers need to do pinching and pinching more often. Watering cucumbers is done every other day, tomatoes - twice a week.
For a good carbon dioxide regime, the greenhouse must be well ventilated. You can additionally supply a container with fermenting manure.
Fertilizers
By pursuing growing vegetables in the sand, use only mineral compositions in liquid form. There are many such solutions, but it is better to use a universal mixture of extracts of superphosphate, magnesium sulfate and nitrate. It can also be used for soil crops.
So, this composition can be used for any soil. It includes: extracts from superphosphate, saltpeter, magnesium sulfate. The concentration of fertilizers in the nutrient solution should be no more than 20 grams. on the bucket. The sand is impregnated in two steps with an interval of several minutes, through a watering can with a fine strainer. Subsequently, the nutrient solution is applied through watering, the concentration of nutrients varies depending on the type of plant being grown. For example, for cucumbers, a single dose of minerals is sufficient; for tomatoes, a double content can be used. Small and frequent doses of mineral nutrition are used because the sand cannot absorb the excess. If you use a higher concentration, the plants will still only take the amount they need.
A solution is prepared immediately before watering in a separate container; it is recommended to store it for no more than a day.
Due to the fact that when vegetables are grown in sand, they more fully use water and nutrients dissolved in it, it is possible to more accurately calculate the dosage for the optimal accumulation of beneficial nutrients in vegetables.
See you, dear friends!
Many summer residents prefer areas located in coniferous forests. It is easy to breathe here, and it is very pleasant to rest in the shade falling from the treetops. But if the addictions change and you want to change, for example, to set up an orchard on the site, an interesting flower garden, then the plants must be selected with special care.
The reason for the failures of growing plants after conifers is sandy soil. Such soil warms up quickly and well, accumulates heat, it is rich in air, but practically does not retain moisture. Moreover, water simply flushes organic particles out of the sand, so sandy soils are the most infertile. Watering and feeding give a short-term effect, so when growing ornamental plants on sandy soils, you have to water and feed them very often. And there will be no time left to enjoy their beauty.
Plant selection
However, there are plants that can withstand the "Spartan conditions" of sandy soils. Pines are ideal in this case. Junipers are unpretentious, winter-hardy and perfectly tolerate drought (virgin, horizontal, Cossack, Chinese, ordinary, rocky, scaly, Daurian, Sargent, hard), yews (pointed and berry).
From deciduous crops for sandy soil, drooping birch, willow (holly, creeping, Caspian, purple, rod-shaped, Russian) maple (ash-leaved, bearded, field), alder buckthorn, silver elk, robinia pseudoacacia (or white acacia) are suitable for sandy soil. They put up with low fertility and low soil moisture.
From ornamental shrubs for sandy soil, low almonds, wrinkled roses, viburnum, barberry, hawthorn, white turf, shrub cinquefoil, white snowberry are suitable. It is quite successfully possible to grow such plants as four-stalked tamarix, foxtail mericaria, brilliant and horizontal cotoneaster, Russian broom, gorse, canadian irga, tree caragana, holly mahonia, Hungarian lilac, spiraea (oak-leaved, Douglas, gray beetle).
Some fruit crops are able to survive on sandy soils and bear fruit. Among them are felt cherries, cherry plums, rejected gooseberries, raspberries, sea buckthorn, golden currants.
These plants are unpretentious, but when planted on poor sandy soils, they need special care - regular watering, the introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers.
The plants listed above are able to grow on sandy soils without the addition of other soils, if they are fed on time with organic and mineral fertilizers, as well as timely and abundantly watered. The addition of nutrient substrates will only improve the general condition of the plants, as well as make them more decorative and abundantly fruitful. Thus, choosing the option of planting without adding new soil, you can dig planting holes according to the size of the coma in which the tree grows. Remember: planting plants in sandy soil with an open root system is risky and most likely the plant will not take root and die. If, however, a fertile substrate is added, then the increase in the diameter and depth of the planting pit is limited only by the presence of the roots of the surrounding large trees and your enthusiasm. However, don't get carried away. We are talking about plants for sandy soils, and if you prepare a different substrate, and even in a large volume, then this is a completely different story (we read "different soil").
Watering and moisture retention
Watering the planted plants is necessary quite often and abundantly. It is important to understand: the more lump of a tree or shrub, the more water it needs to be completely saturated with moisture. It is also important to water the area around the tree-trunk circles, which, by the way, must be equipped in the first years after planting for the convenience of watering. The roots of plants spread rather quickly outside the coma, and the more moisture around, the faster the roots will assimilate new volumes of soil, and this will directly affect the beauty and health of young plantings.
Of course, no one calls to sit with a hose under the trees and watch if the earth has dried up. Gardening is a wonderful activity, but relaxing and enjoying the richness of a garden with minimal maintenance is definitely preferable. It is possible to reduce labor costs for watering just by choosing the option with the addition of nutrient substrates during planting. One of the easiest ways to retain more moisture in the soil is to add peat by mixing it with existing sandy soil in a 2: 1 ratio (2 parts peat to 1 part sand).
The addition of the water-retaining mineral perlite is considered even more effective. Perlite- a rock of volcanic origin. In plant growing, its crushed version is used - agroperlite.
Adding it to any substrate, including just sand, will significantly increase the amount of water retained by the soil.
If you have absolutely no time to water, and there are many beautiful plants on sandy soil, then hydrogel granules need to be mixed into the soil around the plants. Hydrogel are polymer compounds that accumulate and retain moisture. However, the principle of operation is different than that of agroperlite. Agroperlite accumulates moisture and releases it into the soil, thereby moisturizing the substrate itself. The hydrogel has nothing to do with soil moisture. It gives water directly to the plant roots, which penetrate into its granules. The roots of the plant should grow to these granules, so do not throw in regular watering immediately after adding the hydrogel to the soil.
If you know in detail the principle of action of the hydrogel, it will become clear which option for maintaining moisture in the soil is considered the most effective. This is, of course, regular watering. But we just want not to waste time on this. The solution is very simple - it is auto-irrigation. The hydrogel was developed precisely in order to reduce the cost of the undeniably expensive autowatering systems. When making a choice between one or another option, it is important not to forget about the individual characteristics of both individual plants and their communities and make a balanced decision.
In addition to all the options for watering and wetting the substrates, mulching of the soil surface can be applied. Mulching with wood chips (ordinary or decoratively colored) or bark (often pine, less often larch) is very effective in any case. Mulching the soil reduces evaporation, eliminates frequent loosening (loosening the soil is important to ensure proper air exchange), and also resists the germination of weeds. In general, mulching saves a lot of time and effort, which is better spent on vacation.
Fertilization of soils
In addition to moisture, the most important condition for the existence of green spaces, their flowering and fruiting is the indicator of fertility. We have already said that there are practically no organic or mineral substances in sandy soils. Hence, they must be added artificially. The nutrient substrate in one form or another will last only for a few years, since all its properties will disappear over time, simply washed out of the sandy soil with water. The solution is to fertilize regularly.
For most conifers, it is sufficient to apply fertilizer once a year at the very beginning of the season (late April - early May). Deciduous trees are more "voracious", they have to bloom and bear fruit abundantly - this is what we expect from them. Ornamental trees and shrubs can be fed both at the beginning of their growing season in May and in mid-July. The amount and concentration of mineral and organic fertilizers are very individual and mainly depend on the choice of brand and dosage of a particular preparation. There are no universal recommendations on the amount of fertilizer required for different types and varieties of plants. Carefully read the instructions for use, it specifies the features of the introduction and dosage. I will only add that in most products for plant nutrition, the nitrogen content is exceeded, which does not always have a positive effect on plants, especially conifers. It is better to use specialized fertilizers for each type of plant and take only 70-80% of the doses recommended by manufacturers.
Experts believe that it is best to create a lawn on soils that are not too heavy. It is assumed that if the land has an average fertility, then it should be suitable for sowing grasses. What if the soil is not right? Many owners of areas with a high sand content are upset, complaining that they do not have the opportunity to create a good lawn. They are wrong!
How to make an oasis on the site?
There are two options. The first is to create a layer of suitable soil, covering the entire area that is planned. Expensive, but effective. The second way is to take the advice of experts and prepare the soil for planting in accordance with their recommendations. The result is the same as in the first case, only the costs are much lower.
It is advisable to start preparing the site in the fall. But if it was not possible, then all the work can be carried out in early spring. The preparatory processes consist of several stages:
- Cleaning the site from stumps, stones, glass shards and debris.
- The site must be carefully dug up, while selecting all the roots of the weeds.
- It is desirable to cover the area with a film for several days.
- Next, you need to dig small grooves on all sides of the site, as well as along the paths, no more than half a meter deep, cut logs or thick branches are laid out in them. Small pieces are laid on top of large pieces of wood. The whole structure is covered with loam. This system is needed to adjust the water balance on the site.
- After that, cover the sandy soil with loam (10 cm layer). Then mix it with the main soil using a cultivator and enrich the soil with peat. It is mixed with humus, and loam is also added. The layer of this mixture should be equal to 10 cm. The entire surface is watered abundantly, then left to shrink for several days. Then again it is necessary to cover the site with a mixture of peat with black soil, but already mixed not with loam, but with lake silt (if it is difficult to get it, you can add mineral fertilizers).
You can plant seeds no earlier than a month after the work done. As soon as seedlings appear, it is advisable to cover them with a layer of soil of 1 cm (). Do not forget that moisture from the sandy soil quickly leaves, so this soil needs to be watered more often. Frequent watering contributes to the leaching of useful elements from the soil. Naturally, the plants will not like this. Mineral fertilizers can correct the situation. In addition, it is necessary to periodically reduce the acidity of the soil by adding ground limestone to it.
Plants on sandy soil will not grow well all. Ryegrass, red fescue or meadow bluegrass grows normally on such soil. You can also try to plant ground cover grasses (bird knotweed, thyme, budra and others), however, you will have to walk on them carefully, as the cover will be easily damaged. Other herbs will need to be watered and fertilized regularly. However, these works are justified, because there is nothing more pleasant than wandering barefoot in the summer on the cool grass.
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Not many deciduous tree crops grows well on poor sandy soils.
Their assortment is even greater than that of conifers, dictated by the presence of clay particles in the sand and shade on the site.
So let's consider what deciduous trees and shrubs can be planted on sandy soils:
Barberries
Absolutely undemanding to the soils of barberries (Berberis), there are a lot of varieties, different in color and habit. They are not afraid of strong winds, they tolerate drought well.
They are all light-requiring, but grow well in partial shade. But the rich color of purple or yellow leaves will be only when planted in full sun; plants growing in partial shade turn green.
For sandy soils, common barberry and Ottawa barberry (Berberis x ottawiensis) are promising, which is an interspecific hybrid obtained by crossing the Thunberg barberry (B. thunbergii) and the purple-leaved form of the common barberry (B. vulgaris f. Atropurpurea).
Hanging birch (Betula pendula)
Unlike other birches, it is undemanding to the soil, very light-requiring and drought-resistant. There are many slowly growing varieties of drooping birch with a split leaf shape and various colors, the maximum size of which in adulthood does not exceed 8-10 m.It is also interesting to grafted forms with a beautiful umbrella-shaped crown and a height of no more than 4 m.
Shrub cherry (steppe) (Cerasus fruticosa) dwarf (sandy)
Low-growing shrubs. Their fruits are purplish black, edible, and bloom early and showy. In autumn, the leaves turn bright red. Very winter-hardy, drought-resistant and little demanding on the soil. They are used for fixing sandy dry slopes, landscaping rocky places.
Derain white (Сornus alba)
Beautiful shrub up to 3 meters high. Foliage in various forms is green to pale yellow, with silvery or creamy white edging. The bright color of the bark is especially effective against the background of snow. Looks good in single and group plantings, used in hedges. Over time, without trimming, the bottom is exposed. Stump trim restores decorativeness. More about derain.
Dyeing gorse (Genista tincioria)
The low, fast growing light-loving shrub is very beautiful during flowering. Prefers infertile soils, preferably calcareous. For the winter, a light shelter is needed; when freezing, it quickly recovers and blooms. Especially good on slopes and in rock gardens.
Dryad (Dryas)
Dryads are rightfully considered one of the most charming alpine woody plants. Caucasian dryad (Dryas caucasica Juz.), Eight-petalled dryad (Dryas octopetala L) will become a decoration of rockeries.
Dryad Zyunderman (Dryas x suendermannii Kellerer) is especially suitable for framing paths, as it will not suffer if stepped on. They do not tolerate waterlogging, put up with shading, they are easily grown even on an acidic substrate. Wintering leaves can burn from the spring sun.
Holly willow (willow) (Salix acutifolia) is one of the most undemanding willow species in terms of growing conditions. Brightly colored branches are good in winter against a background of white snow. The creeping willow (Salix reptans) is a low, creeping shrub with rising and rooting stems. Flowering begins in May and ends in late July and early August, which makes the plant very decorative.
Irga Canadian (AmelanchierCanadensis)
Large shrub up to 6 m tall. Graceful white racemose inflorescences adorn irgu for 7-10 days. The fruits are red at first, then turn black, have a pleasant taste and become a delicacy for birds. The autumn foliage color is especially beautiful and varied.
Caragana tree (yellow acacia) (Сaragana arborescens)
Frost-resistant, undemanding to soil conditions, drought-resistant. Very decorative, suitable for hedges. In spring, its blossoming leaves can delight you with the incomparable color of fresh greenery. Excellent honey plant. Enriches the soil with nitrogen. There are interesting garden forms. The weeping form is very effective.
Shiny cotoneaster (Сotoneasterlucidus), up to 2 m in height, is one of the best shrubs for creating molded hedges. Its black round "berries" do not crumble until frost. Winter-hardy, unpretentious to soil, shade-tolerant.
Dammer's cotoneaster (Сotoneasterdammerii)
It has creeping shoots, pressed to the ground and partially rooting. Dark green leathery small leaves look like evergreens and do not fall off for a long time. Small reddish flowers sitting on twigs are good. In September, coral-red fruits, closely located on the shoots, are very well combined with shiny foliage. In late autumn, the leaves turn purple. Grows well on rocky or poor sandy soil. Looks great with junipers, especially in spring and autumn. The combination with small-bulbous in spring, decorative bows in summer and crocuses in autumn is very elegant.
Most maples grow well on sandy soil: ash-leaved or American maple (Acer negundo), because bearded (Acer barbinerve), because yellow (maple-birch) (Acer ukurunduense), because Pennsylvanian or striped (Acer pensylvanicum) with longitudinally striped bark.
Kolkwitzia amabilis
A close relative of honeysuckle. An unusually beautiful summer flowering shrub. Bright pink bell-shaped flowers cover the bush abundantly for 20-25 days. In winter, it can partially freeze over, but it recovers the next year. He loves lighted places, but not sunshine. As they grow older, the winter hardiness of plants increases.
Alder buckthorn (Frangula alnus)
A small tree or shrub with a spreading crown. Has varietal forms. Decorative thanks to its bright green, glossy foliage. Used for trimmed hedges and fence plantings.
Gooseberry (Grossularia)
Perhaps the sweetest and healthiest berry in the northern latitudes. With a skillful approach, gooseberries grow well and bear fruit on any soil. On poor sandy ones, annual application of organic and mineral fertilizers is necessary. To have a healthy plant and a good harvest, it is important to follow the rules of pruning.
Cinquefoil, Kuril tea (Potentilla fruticosa)
Drought-resistant, undemanding to soil fertility. Hardy, does not need winter shelter. Its main advantage is the longest flowering among shrubs. Cinquefoil is photophilous, but for varieties of orange, pink and red "colors", you should choose a light partial shade, otherwise the flowers burn out strongly.
Silver loch (Elaeagnus argentea)
A small deciduous tree, often growing bushy, with beautiful silvery shoots and leaves, fragrant flowers, drupes. Unpretentious, able to grow on extremely poor soils, photophilous, drought-resistant, good honey plant.
Due to the presence on the roots of nodules with nitrogen-fixing bacteria, suckers are breeds that improve the soil. Loch is good in compositions with red-leaved and golden forms of deciduous shrubs and conifers; in the form of hedges and when creating contrasting groups against a background of dark greenery.
Mahonia aquifolia
An interesting evergreen shrub with large leathery shiny leaves. Numerous yellow flowers at the ends of the shoots appear in early May and last for a month. Decorative all year round. Shade-tolerant. Produces abundant root suckers, forming beautiful low thickets.
Fragrant raspberry (Rubus odoratus)
Deciduous shrub with large maple-like leaves up to 20 cm. Fragrant pink flowers up to 5 cm in diameter adorn the plant from June throughout the summer. Used as undergrowth, decorates inconvenience well.
Steppe almond, bean (Amygdalus nana = Prunus nana)
Up to 1.5 m high, it delights with delicate pink flowers in late April - early May. Drought-resistant and frost-resistant, undemanding to soil.
Sea buckthorn (Нippophae rhamnoides)
It grows well in the sand and gives numerous shoots. Tree or shrub up to 6? M tall with yellowish-gray bark. Young shoots end in thorns, silvery leaves. The plant is dioecious. The berries are orange in color, edible and very healthy.
Bubble plant (Physocarpos opulifolius)
A large shrub up to 3 m tall with slightly spreading branches, has several decorative forms that differ in the color of the leaves. Blossoms in June with corymbose inflorescences of small pinkish-white flowers. The fruits are also decorative - swollen leaflets, which, as they ripen, change color from green to reddish-pink.
Broomsticks (Chamaecytisus)
Mostly unpretentious shrubs from 0.5? M to 3 m tall with yellow moth flowers. Many of them are suitable for decorating and strengthening sandy slopes and wastelands; others are excellent ornamental plants for group and single plantings, protective plantings, borders. Varieties with fragrant flowers are of considerable interest.
Robinia pseudoacacia
White acacia (Robinia pseudoacacia) is a long-lived (up to 400 years) tree up to 30 m tall. Very light-requiring and drought-resistant. Young plants can freeze slightly, but if the roots and root collars are preserved under the snow, they quickly recover. Winter hardiness increases with age.
Robinia is associated with acacia, belonging to the legume family, feathery leaves and thorny branches. It is valued for its openwork multi-tiered crown, beautiful leaves and very fragrant, white or slightly pinkish flowers in long drooping racemes. It blooms profusely in mid-June, at this time it is very decorative and spreads fragrant waves far around itself. There are many forms in culture.
Rose rugose, or R. rugosa (Rosa rugosa)
In nature, it grows in groups or in thickets on sandy or sandy-pebble sea coasts, in coastal meadows. Photophilous and drought-resistant, up to 2.5 m in height, all in numerous reddish thorns. The main species and hybrids have large - up to 12 cm - fragrant flowers of various colors.
They bloom all summer, especially plentifully in June, often repeatedly, so buds, flowers and ripe fruits can be observed on the bush at the same time. The fruits are large, orange-red, fleshy, up to 2.5 cm in diameter.
Rose glauca (Rosaglauca)
Leaves and shoots of this tall shrub with a bluish-gray bloom. It blooms once in June with bright pink flowers. It grows quickly, has little soil demand. Does not form offspring. Read more about glauca rose.
Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens)
In our climate, boxwood is grown as a shrub, the height of which mainly depends on the height of the snow cover. But the winter drying winds and the scorching spring sun have a more detrimental effect on it. Considering these factors when choosing a location, then bright green sheared boxwoods will add a Mediterranean flavor to the garden. All parts of the plant and especially the leaves are poisonous.
Hungarian lilac (Syringa josikaea)
Up to 3 m tall, unlike ordinary lilac, it develops well on any soil. Very hardy and drought resistant. It can be kept in a lower and fluffy form by pruning, then the flowering will be more abundant. Easily propagated by seeds, layering and cuttings.
Golden currant (Ribes aureum)
High, up to 2 meters, winter-hardy shrub, undemanding to the soil. This species is one of the few that combines an ornamental and berry plant. The flowers are golden yellow with a pleasant aroma, the berries are sweet and sour edible. Autumn color of foliage is very attractive. Good for hedges or mixed curbs. Golden currants can be grown in standard form.
Snowberry white or raceme (Symphoricarpos albus)
Deciduous shrub, low up to 1.5 meters tall. Due to the abundant long flowering and white berry-like fruits, the bushes look very elegant in spring until late autumn. Prefers calcareous soils, does not require watering.
Summer cottages, but many people nowadays sell "stuffy" city apartments, add their hard-earned funds and acquire suburban housing with clean fresh air and a river nearby.
Many summer cottages are located in the immediate vicinity of coniferous forests. Their key feature is their sandy soil. Accordingly, if you want to set up a vegetable garden, flower garden or orchard on a plot, you will have to take into account a number of key features or bring in a lot of fertile land by trucks.
The sandy ground warms up quickly and retains heat for a long time, passes air well to the roots of plants, but quickly loses moisture. At the same time, the water carries away with it those insignificant particles of organic matter that slowly accumulated in the upper, more fertile layer.
What to do? Generally refuse to keep a garden in such a situation? It's not all bad. There are plants that tolerate sandy soils relatively well:
- junipers (various types);
- yew;
- barberry;
- snowberry white;
- irga canadian;
- spirea;
- Hungarian lilac;
- felt cherry;
- cherry plum;
- gooseberry;
- raspberries;
- sea buckthorn;
- wrinkled rose;
- hawthorn;
- Russian broom;
- currant.
Plant plants with a good root ball in sandy soil. Seedlings with a bare root system are more likely to not really take root in the sand.
Crops from the above list will thrive without the addition of fertile surface soil types. All that is required of you is timely watering, application of organic and mineral fertilizers (for each specific type individually).
Watering on sandy soils is necessary not only at the root, but also around, so that the roots have an incentive to develop a large area. In the future, plants with a well-developed root system will be able to fully reveal their potential even on such a poor land.
For better moisture retention, peat can be added to the sandy soil at the rate of 2 parts of peat to 1 part of sand. Adding agroperlite to the composition will be even more effective. This volcanic rock retains moisture very well in the soil and gradually releases it to the plant roots as needed.
In addition to peat and perlite on sandy soils, the point application of the hydrogel is more justified. From the moment the plant roots grow into the hydrogel granules, they will be fully provided with a sufficient amount of moisture.
Mulching of sandy soils is recommended as an additional measure. You can use fine pine bark, wood chips, or other materials at hand. As a result, the evaporation of moisture, especially in hot sunny weather, from the upper layers of the soil will sharply decrease.
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