Introductory part. Who is this article for? What is this article for?
There are conferences on the Internet dedicated to cross-country skiing. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly new skiers, ask me questions about choosing equipment. Over time, answers accumulated that I wanted to formalize somehow.This article should answer the basic questions that arise for a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this a lot of time passes, equipment, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate this modern abundance. Unfortunately, stores do not always have qualified salespeople who can thoroughly answer questions that arise. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, “I was in the AAA store yesterday. I didn’t get an answer to a single question. They don’t have a catalog or consultants.” or “I was in the BBB store in the summer. I “tortured” the seller for an hour. I didn’t learn anything except the price.” In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to “promote” the buyer to buy more expensive equipment; this sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.
I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of skiing for yourself and your family.
Ski selection
And yet it's plastic...
First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Nowadays, skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in the construction of skis). A person who has been skiing on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - strong recoil, which turns skiing from pleasure into real torture. The person is perplexed - I would have traveled N kilometers long ago on pieces of wood, but here I am forced to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It’s especially offensive if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons for him into a humiliating crawl, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden skis. Firstly, wood gets pretty ruffled when rubbing against snow, which practically never happens with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared - with a HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only sometimes a little warmer ointment was added under the block. These two factors ensured the lack of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be lubricated, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they are used to lubricating wooden ones. So, kickback on plastic skis can be avoided, but we’ll talk about this in more detail in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding properties, plastic is much more better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if you shouldn’t even try to reach positive temperatures on wooden skis, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.Start with the classics
When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you are skiing at and what style you are going to ski mainly, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different equipment. There are so-called “universal” skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness optimal for classic skiing, then skating on them will be, let’s say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - with classic ones, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually sanded. Skate skates require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are entirely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). But for classic ones, lubricating the block with paraffin is contraindicated. If you then apply a holding ointment to this paraffin (or even its remains), it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible things. (But don’t shy away from the word “universal” - these are completely normal skis, just choose the length and stiffness according to your skiing style).Therefore, if you want to try both styles and the funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared trails, and there are few of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many times more places for skiing. Also keep in mind that prepared skating trails are most often laid over difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It’s not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route; you can “stand up” after the second or third climb. And you can’t drag your family along such a route with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating route near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case, the skating style is definitely worth trying.)
Which skis should a beginner choose?
First, about prices. Racing skis that are at the top of the range of famous brands such as Fischer, Atomic, Madshus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones, such as STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass-produced (amateur) models from well-known brands cost around $70-100. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your “image”. You can spend 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training, you yourself will understand what you need and where to move. The exception is if you have a lot of weight, say, over 70 kg. The main problem with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them the ones that suit your weight. Here you will have to move to a different price range and choose mass models from well-known brands. We will return to this issue below.What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models from well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. Such skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are manufactured in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is simulated on a computer. Before launching into production, new developments are thoroughly tested by qualified athletes. Expensive materials are used in manufacturing, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high; all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows us to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" No. 17, 10 and other issues. However, manufacturers make most of their money on skis for the mass market, of which much more is required than for elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's take an analogy with computer technology. It is no secret that components for mass production, even from such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others, are mostly manufactured in South-East Asia, for example, in Taiwan. It's a similar story with mass skiing. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of different brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by the Fisher company), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis on orders from Madshus, Karhu, and Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, just like the inexpensive ski poles Madshus and Karhu. And our own skis and poles under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and at a lower price.
Now let’s learn more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass skis intended for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical specifications that allow you to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are difficult to combine, such as the weight of the ski and its stiffness. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder during sintering under pressure and at high temperature. This porous plastic is harder and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to last over long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and piste preparation place different demands on skis. Therefore, in the world of racing skis, specialization is common, allowing you to achieve the best glide in certain conditions, but at the same time forcing you to have several pairs of skis. Models are produced specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft tracks, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, since skis are produced for skate and for classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional rigidity, course stability, vibration damping and ski control when sliding quickly on slopes, and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars allowing you to drive quickly and comfortably on various roads in different weather conditions. But as soon as we are talking about competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine-tuning the suspension for each track and tire, and a lot of others technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis best demonstrate their exceptional qualities on specially prepared tracks. Just as it’s difficult to imagine racing a McLaren on roads near Moscow, you shouldn’t expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.
Amateur (mass) skis are universal and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore they are a little heavier. For example, if a pair of racing skis weighs about 1 kg, then amateur ones weigh on average 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less wax, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not last as long on the ski. But this doesn’t really matter if your usual “norm” does not exceed 10-15 km. As written in Ivan Kuzmin’s article “For Parents of Growing Skiers” in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of the ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of the skis, 20% is determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of the skis, and the last 20% is determined by the lubrication of the skis. Therefore, by successfully selecting skis for your weight, you will get excellent ride quality, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.
Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk in the woods with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier and buy yourself racing models, then these simple skis will be yours for the first and last snow, on which it’s a pity to tear up expensive skis.
There are skis with notches under the block. They seem to hold up well on soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often assume, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I wouldn’t recommend these, unless you really don’t want to mess around with lubricant. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, the conventional ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without notches are more versatile. The notch will work well on a medium-soft ski track, but not on a compacted hard (or icy) one and not on a loose one. And ordinary skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, whether or not to take notched skis is a matter of taste.
How to choose skis
As written above, the weight deflection determines the performance of the ski by 60%. Therefore, selecting skis according to this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of pressure of the ski on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the ski diagram. Here is a typical picture for classic skis (ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com): |
The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow under increasing load at approximately half the weight of the skier, when the skier rides on two skis. In the lower part, the pressure distribution when pushing with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating skis the picture will be different, since when pushing they should not have a maximum pressure under the block (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):
That is, skate skis should be stiffer than classic skis for the same skier.
A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the applied effort. Otherwise, excess pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to braking of the ski and rapid loss of lubricant in these areas. Here are the drawings from the article by V. Smolyanov (LS Magazine No....).
You can check the diagram of a ski only on rather complex equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of skis.
So, you came to the store... Let's assume that you have already decided on your skiing style, price range and, possibly, ski models.
The procedure could be as follows:
1. Look for several pairs of skis that suit your length. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skate skis the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.
2. Check ski geometry. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense; put them aside). However, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but check". Look along the ski from the sliding surface. The ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should be no “screw” - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform, smooth curve without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.
3. Select skis according to their hardness.
For classics, the most correct definition of stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers by the sides). Place them parallel to each other on a FLAT floor with a sliding surface (if they allow you to do this in the store, just in case, take a newspaper underneath). If the skis have straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (the skis are not made using CAP technology), then checking the floor is simple - lay the ski on its side, it should fit snugly semi. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote from the “Short course of the Skiing discipline” of the Russian State Academy of Physical Culture: “Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces are under the load part (a distance of 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the binding (means about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the athlete stands on them with both feet. In the case when the skier transfers his body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski must be adjacent to the floor." In practice, this can be checked simply - one person stands on skis, and the second guides under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you stand on both skis, the places where the paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the block. If you transfer your weight to one ski, then the piece of paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor. Then transfer your weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor. The test with a piece of paper can be done by one person, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when determining the length of the last.
If conditions do not allow using this method, then you can approximately determine the stiffness as follows: carefully fold the skis with the sliding surface facing each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that your wrist strength does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise your wrist with a resistance band).
Large stores sometimes have special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.
The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another “folk” way of determining stiffness. An average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should push the skis with both hands until they fully touch the sliding plastic under the block. If it doesn’t crush him, it means the skis are definitely too hard for him.
For skating the ski gap when compressed with one hand should be greater - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine it on the floor with a piece of paper, then just under the boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you put your weight on one ski.
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Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, since without good technique, they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (This means soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described methods dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)
Then check the compression of the skis evenly. In this way, you will indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the performance of the ski. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap at the top and bottom should decrease in proportion to the force and evenly. Usually the tips of the skis are a little softer than the heels, so at first the gap between the tips of the skis decreases faster than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the gap under the block should be the last to disappear, approximately at the point of compression. In this case, the skis should fit tightly to each other throughout, there should be no gap between them. The toes of the skis should not move apart as they compress. In addition, each ski must bend equally. (It happens that skis are not selected for stiffness and, when fully compressed, one is slightly bent and the other is arched.) After bending, you should be left with the feeling that the tip and tail of the ski meet the definition of “elastic”.
Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin’s article “For Parents of Growing Skiers” in LS No. 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:
- The ski compresses with noticeable force from the very beginning.
- At first the ski compresses very easily, and then a “stop” occurs; with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock at the front of the block.
- When the owner squeezes hard, the skis touch under the block.
- With strong compression by the owner, a gap of more than 2 mm remains under the block (except for skis on ice).
(Here we mean squeezing with one hand).
(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to first use hand compression - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair using a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)
4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each ski in the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally coincide, but a discrepancy of about 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you install the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, by placing the ski on the back of a knife or the end of a thin ruler.)
5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or curved in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.
Otherwise, preparing the skis will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Small deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be cycled, which requires experience and a ski machine.) To check, place a flat object at the beginning, middle and end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.
There should be no obvious or major damage to the plastic - holes, bumps, peeling, etc. . Minor flaws - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or rigidity). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, skis should not be completely smooth. A smooth ski glides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a “structure” on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs on the edges of new skis are removed with fine sandpaper using light movements from the tip to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of riding.
6. Once a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.If you still could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:
The STC factory uses lightweight wood such as poplar or aspen to produce skis, and the power load is carried mainly by laminate plates and fiberglass. Therefore, the skis are mostly soft. When I was choosing inexpensive classic training skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand) for my weight of 60 kg, I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small plastic bubble on the toe of the ski, and a few cosmetic blemishes. But they had the toughness they needed. As a result, I removed the bubble with sandpaper, and the skis turned out very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the Peltonen and Karhu brands. In addition, STC skis are also hidden behind sonorous names like Viking, Sable, Magnum.
Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisa skis are usually stiffer, the wood they use is stronger, but these skis are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to choose skis if you are above average weight. The yew produced in 2001 is very well made, but it is also expensive.
If funds allow, then you can safely take products from well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis costing 80-100 dollars, there is less variation in parameters and easier choice. But all the main stages of selection must be repeated with such skis.
Choosing ski boots
If funds allow, then take boots with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. Of course, mounting these systems is not cheap. But they're worth it. If you think your budget won't allow you to spend $40-50 on a racing binding, there are some great touring bindings that cost $20-25. The price range for boots extends from about $50 for a touring boot to about $200 for a racing boot. As with skis, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. In fact, boots have little effect on skiing speed, so it’s not necessary to chase the top models. But if you intend to try yourself in the skating style, then take skate models with a high, rigid cuff that covers the ankle. Or combined ones, similar in appearance to skate shoes, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classic in them. Specialized middle-class models will cost more than tourist-class boots. When choosing, pay attention first of all to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, but one may be perfect for your feet. You can take boots from models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For riding in the forest, tourist-class boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only use fastenings for the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Boots with such soles essentially have only one drawback. If you walk a lot on asphalt in them, the plastic sole on the toe of the boot wears away almost to the metal bracket that fits into the groove of the fasteners. The staple most likely will not be able to fall out - it is embedded quite deeply in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate and the boots will lose their presentation. Craftsmen use various methods to protect expensive boots if it is not possible to wear them near the ski track. One option is rubber galoshes worn over boots. Better than galoshes with soft fabric inside. Rubber ones just leave marks on a light-colored shoe or peel off the paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that snow doesn’t get in them, and bury them in the snow under some kind of tree. On the way back I put it on. The second method is described in LS No. 16. A piece of rubber tube/hose with an internal diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the staple and a length equal to the length of the open part of the staple is cut in a spiral and put (screwed) onto the staple. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and placed in the pocket.Choosing ski poles
Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. Poles made of 100% carbon fiber are light and stiff, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass poles are not as stiff, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass ones are quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have much strength and weight.Plastic (composite) poles sometimes break. This can happen when you fall on a stick or when you lean on a stick with your entire weight and lose balance, although not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn’t hit the axis of the stick with force - and I was done.
If your weight is high, then take stronger poles with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bendable sticks with large rings that were produced about 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.
Domestic poles produced by STC (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEHK (Ural Electro Chemical Plant). For an amateur, Balakovo sticks are also a good choice; they are cheaper, but their quality is good (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic poles cost from 300-400 rubles.
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Ski lubrication
First, a few words for those completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic ride, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with holding ointment so that there is no kickback. The length of the last is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot, placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the last by another 10-15 cm to the tip of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised to smear the back (!!!) of their skis to avoid recoil.)Skating skis are lubricated along their entire length with glide lubricants.
The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of tools and, most importantly, the time spent preparing skis is greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.
If you have read materials from Swix or other companies on preparing skis, you can estimate how much time it will take minimum professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (applying, removing with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weathering paraffin (application, cooling the ski until room temperature at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, cleaning with a brush, polishing). That is, at least half an hour you will be fiddling with one pair. Plus additional “pleasures” - the smell (though not strong), scraping off paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor, that's the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I were preparing skis at his house, we rolled up the rug, then, of course, we put everything away, but some remnants of paraffin apparently remained on the floor, and the rug began to slide wildly... I remember good words his wife... In short, you need a place to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remains of paraffin will be carried throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when due to dryness and static electricity these residues tend to stick to everything. It happens that while you are busy with the preparation, your family loses all desire to ride. This is only for diehard fanatic skiers. Fortunately there is alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, they will be written about in the following sections.
To get an idea of the process vocational training skis, read the article by A. Grushin "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski Racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from the Fisher store.
Ski slip ointments
Sliding lubricants come in different types. Paraffins are most often used, and in professional sports they also use accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. Such lubricants are quite expensive, but are consumed quite quickly. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not buy expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But there is no point in taking a lot. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather... In professional lubricants, this is solved by rolling out paraffins, but those who like to torment themselves with a choice have no need.If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then it is better for you to buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is generally below 50%, then you will be fine with fluoride-free paraffins.
Among the inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you just fine. (These lubricants are rolled out in the Moscow region, and they work well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and works well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small fluorine content) for three temperature ranges. It’s also worth taking tablets - the MVIS accelerator. They have No. 238 for sunny weather for temperatures -9+5, lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather in which it is really good, but it will also go in cloudy weather, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once you apply it cold, you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but is spent very economically - it will last for many years.
For humid climates, fluoridated gels, pastes, sprays or emulsions are good. Apply to the sliding surface using a cotton swab or spray, dry or heat with a hairdryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: a little expensive, quickly consumed, lasts up to 10-15 km.
Ski holding ointments
Holding ointments come in solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must satisfy two requirements. First, the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski “sticks” to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, allowing the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, pressure under the block is also present, but the ointment should allow him to glide on one ski and “brake” only at the moment of push. Therefore, selecting the optimal holding ointment that provides the best combination of grip and glide is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternating layers of different ointments, applying them in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques are used.Amateurs can smear themselves easier. In order not to fool your head, I will give the simplest rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (fluorine-free) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put ointment, the lower limit of the temperature range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if it is now -5, then put the ointment -1+1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and therefore its retention, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take with you a plastic rub (the so-called “cork”) and a warmer ointment and colder than the one smeared at home. If you don't get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much, put a colder one on top; if it doesn't hold well, put a warmer one on top. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the block forward to the tip of the ski.) It takes a couple of minutes to get smeared, and you will enjoy skiing for the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a specific region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly discover what works best for you.
For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment will be enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you smear yourself at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each layer with a cork.
Liquid ointments are more often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (this is difficult to do in the cold, better at home).
A klister may be needed for above-zero temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in the case when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to damage the case. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are standing vertically, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after riding, it is better to immediately remove the klister using a remover (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).
At sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:
- Podlip. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter “sticking” - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
- Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25) the ointment may begin to “ice up” - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a shock, begin to break off, leaving the ends in the ointment, and an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. This can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving home, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Allow the skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
- The condition of the snow in and outside the ski track can be different, so the ointment that allowed you to roll normally in the ski track can greatly slow you down when exiting it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in the forest.
Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes
Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or other company) manual for preparing skis, you get the impression that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all sorts of tools and materials for the skis. This is really necessary for professional ski training. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (as the sliding surface is sometimes called), which is made of high-molecular sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be made from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at high temperatures, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin’s article “Use the iron correctly” in LS No....). A good ski iron can be bought for 60-70 dollars.New skis, regardless of whether you then use hot wax application or not, are still better to treat them the first time using an iron. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old old one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth on hand. If the paraffin suddenly begins to smoke, you can quickly lower the temperature of the iron sole by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the iron's thermostat to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski at all times. It is better to operate a household iron sideways, wide part soles. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.
- Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: place fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive facing up, and straighten the sandpaper with a ruler so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs or irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler into a semicircle on the sandpaper (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these angles to the groove of your skis so that you can then remove the wax from the groove. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles to suit different pairs. Look at branded scrapers in the store to get an idea of what you should end up with.
- A nylon brush is used to remove remaining paraffin after it has been removed with a scraper. If you will use hot paraffin application, then a fairly stiff brush is necessary. To do this, I had to use household brushes such as “iron” or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. “Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats,” but you can also remove excess paraffin.
- Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from the plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual lint will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Household abrasive plates that are approximately the same in appearance may not contain the same abrasive and only add lint. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy it... Probably not necessary.
- Fiberlene is a non-woven material used for final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed; you can polish your skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.
- SWIX sandpaper No. 100 is used for sanding classic ski lasts so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household sandpaper of the appropriate grain size will do. In general, you need to sand under the block if you are running more than 20-30 km or on ice.
- Swix T-89 razor scraper, used for removing lint - not needed by an amateur.
- Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be sanded. A cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And it’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a ski when scraping - your hand trembles and there’s a wave or a scratch. Amateurs don't need it.
- Knurling is used to apply a structure to a sliding surface. Amateurs don't need it. The universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
- A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight deterioration in gliding by using warmer paraffin, then you don’t need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a frost gel or accelerator that is applied in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.
- The wash is used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off sliding paraffin if it is not possible to use hot ski cleaning. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - it just didn’t have to be cleaned.
- Rubbing (cork) is used to level out holding ointments. Plastic is better for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Definitely needed.
Additional ski accessories
Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be a place to store your skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with the holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to remove it from clothes without a solvent or remover. Good domestic cases cost from 200 rubles. Take a case for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.It's a good idea to take Velcro ski ties. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski will be damaged during transportation by poles or bindings of another pair. If you walk close to the ski track, then you can carry your skis without a cover. Skis that are tied together are more difficult to get dirty on. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the bundle is between the sliding surfaces of the skis; they should not touch.
Rags. To treat your skis you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a remover, brush away the remaining paraffin after passing through the scraper and brushes, and so on. At worst, you can even polish your ski after applying paraffins with a rag without pressing hard.
How to store skis
Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a cover with skis on the glassed-in balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis sucked; it was good that they were inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.Simplified ski lubrication technologies
You can read about the intricacies of applying hot lubricants (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin’s article “Use the iron correctly” from LS No.... In particular, he does not recommend using household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.You can try this method (I experimented): take a metal ladle with a lid, say, a liter one. It should not be enameled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald yourself. Cover the ladle with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial treatment of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point significantly lower than 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin must first be rubbed in a thick layer onto the sliding surface, and the ski must lie horizontally, with the sliding surface facing up, for example, on two stools.
Boiling water and a ladle that conducts heat well are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin like that, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools. Make several slow passes from the tip to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and get scalded. Therefore, for regular use, it is better to purchase a ski iron.
Another way. Paraffin can be applied by vigorous rubbing. First of all, clean your ski. If there is a clear layer of old wax on the ski, then lightly go through it with a plastic scraper and/or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin (it is convenient to control this by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). It doesn’t even have to be a completely continuous layer. Then take the cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The heat generated is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then brush lightly from the tip to the tail of the ski. The time required is minimal. There is practically no dirt, no machine required. On regular snow it will last at least 10 km.
There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination supposedly generates enough heat to cold apply the accelerators. Simulated with a thick synthetic felt insole wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins using the cold method.
What ski waxes to buy for ski preparation
Depending on your level of training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lube that are sufficient for riding.Minimum.
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Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:
3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment, covering the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rubbing.
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Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go out on the ski slopes at above-zero temperatures, because at above-zero temperatures you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).
Sufficient.
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Advanced.
This kit may be needed by a fairly advanced and trained skier, so in many ways he may already know the following information from previous publications in L.S., from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list as well. To all of the above you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(this lubricant is especially effective in conditions of high humidity). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static tension from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and tablet-form pure fluorocarbons), knurling agents (for applying a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments from often completely different manufacturers work well in different weather conditions. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times over compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.
Cross-country skiing is divided into racing, amateur and touring. As a rule, the purpose is indicated in the product card.
- Racing (marked Racing and Racing PRO). These skis are designed for athletes and amateurs who want to improve their speed. This is an option for specially prepared trails.
- Amateur or recreational (Active, Fitness). This is an option for those who sometimes go for a ride in the park, do it for fun and do not strive for records. Skis are slightly wider than racing skis; expensive materials and technologies are rarely used in their production.
- Tourist (Back Country). These are skis for hunters, tourists and fishermen, people who need to move around, without pistes or ski tracks. Such skis are much wider than recreational skis in order to support a person’s weight on loose snow.
Skis
Classic skis (designated Classic or Cl) are longer than skate skis, have a sharp toe and a soft last. There may be notches under the block (designated TR) that prevent slipping during repulsion. On the left is a ski with notches, on the right - without.
andrewskurka.com If the ski does not have notches (designation WAX), a special ointment provides an anti-slip effect. However, it will be quite difficult for beginners to apply it correctly, so a ski with serrations will be the best option.
To choose the size of classic skis, add 20 cm to your height or simply raise your hand: the lowered palm of your outstretched arm should touch the top of the ski.
It is also worth paying attention to the stiffness of the skis. First, determine the center of gravity: place the ski on your hand so that both ends are in balance. Then fold the skis with the sliding side towards each other and squeeze with one hand 3 cm below the found center of balance. There will be a distance of 1–1.5 mm between skis of suitable stiffness.
What to buy
Boots
Boots for classic skis are low and soft, without special inserts to secure the foot.
You shouldn't buy boots back to back. If your big toe rests on the toe of the shoe, your foot will quickly freeze. Better take boots half a size larger.
What to buy
Sticks
When choosing poles for classic skating, pay attention to their length. With short ones, it will be uncomfortable for you to walk on flat terrain, with long ones, it will be uncomfortable to climb slopes. Select poles according to your height: the lanyard exit (the place where the strap is attached to the pole) should be at the level of your shoulder.
Poles are made from aluminum, fiberglass and carbon fiber. Aluminum ones can bend under load. So, if you weigh a lot, choose glass and carbon fiber. The latter provides the greatest rigidity and lightness of the poles. These poles are used by professional athletes.
marax.ru Also pay attention to the material of the handle. Poles with cork handles are well suited for walking in cold weather: cork does not get cold on the hand, unlike plastic.
Skis
Skis for skating (designated Skate or Sk) are shorter and have a smooth last, since with this type of skiing the notches only get in the way, clinging to the snow and reducing speed.
To find the ideal length for skate skis, add 5–10 cm to your height.
It is also worth checking the stiffness of the skis. The gap between skis compressed with one hand should be 1.5–2 mm.
What to buy
Boots
To prevent injury and excessive stress on the foot during skating, additional support is needed. Therefore, skate boots are taller and stiffer than classic ones and are supplemented with a special plastic cuff.
What to buy
Sticks
Skating poles are longer than classic poles. The lanyard should be at the level of the skier's chin or lips.
How to choose all-mountain skis, boots and poles
If you plan to master both classic and skating, you can purchase universal equipment.
Skis
All-mountain skis (designated Combi) are longer than skate skis, but shorter than classic skis. To determine the required length, add 15 cm to your height.
As for knurling, some all-mountain skis have a replaceable center: if you want to ski in classic style, use notches; if in a ridge, remove the nozzle with notches.
What to buy
Boots
Boots for all-mountain skis are almost no different from classic ones. They are just as soft and flexible, but have a plastic cuff that supports the ankle.
What to buy
Sticks
For universal skis, poles are suitable for both classic and skating.
What types of fastenings are there?
Three types of mounts are now common: the legacy NN 75, NNN (with or without NIS platform) and SNS.
sprint5.ru Surely many remember this mount from childhood. This is an ordinary metal brace that fixes the leg, but it does it rather poorly.
With the NN 75 it is almost impossible to skate. In addition, they don’t make good boots for this mount. The only advantage is the low price.
What to buy
NNN (New Nordic Norm)
Automatic fastening NNN / spine.ru This mount consists of two guides (flexors) located at some distance
from each other, and the rubber stop.
There are two options for such fastenings: automatic and mechanical. The automatic NNN mount snaps into place by simply pressing your boot onto the shackle. In the case of a mechanical one, you will have to open the lid with your hands, and after installing the boot, close it.
Mechanical fastenings NNN / manaraga.ru However, the mechanical fastening is more reliable: it cannot accidentally come loose, for example, during a fall. Additionally, if you plan to ski in warm weather, water that gets into the automatic binding may freeze and cause a permanent blockage.
Also, the fastenings differ in the degree of rigidity. If the rubber stop is NNN white, the mount is intended for hard skating, if green - for softer skating. Black stops are suitable for standard skating, and red ones for soft skating.
If you prefer skating, choose bindings with white or green rubber bands. If classic - with black or red.
To install NNN on skis, you need to find the center of gravity and drill a hole for the mounts. However, there is a simpler and more convenient installation method: special NIS platforms.
Mount NNN NIS / dostupny-sport.ru The Nordic Integrated System (NIS) was developed in 2005 for NNN mounts. Skis adapted for NIS are equipped with a special plate on which the binding is installed. There is no need to drill the skis, just slide the mount along the guide plates and click into place.
The mount is easy to install and remove, eliminates the need to search for the center of gravity of the ski and can be used with different pairs of skis.
What to buy
This is a mount with one wide guide and two brackets. SNS fasteners are also divided into automatic and mechanical.
shamov-russia.ru Unlike NNN, SNS has only three levels of severity. They are marked with a numerical value and color. For a classic move, you should choose bindings with a flexor stiffness of 85 (yellow), for a skate - 115 (red), and for universal use - 95 (pink).
In terms of comfort, stability and lateral stability, there is little difference between SNS and NNN mounts.
Most cross-country ski boots are designed to fit a specific type of binding. Therefore, first choose boots that fit perfectly on your feet, and only then choose the bindings that fit them.
Due to NIS, NNN fasteners are more convenient to install, but SNS are more stable: due to the NNN platform, they are higher than SNS screwed on with screws. On the other hand, a higher position increases the force of the push. In general, both mounts are used by both amateur and professional athletes.
What to buy
What materials to choose
Skis made from solid timber or glued layers of wood are becoming a thing of the past. Modern models also use wood, but, as a rule, the core consists of it, and the sliding surface is made of plastic.
If you're used to skiing on wood skis, plastic may feel uncomfortable due to kickback. Plastic is more slippery and, unlike wood, does not “ruffle” when rubbing against snow.
However, with proper lubrication of plastic skis, it is quite possible to avoid kickback. As for the advantages, plastic skis are more durable and, unlike wooden skis, allow you to ski at above-zero temperatures.
According to the manufacturing method, skis are divided into Sandwich and Cap. The former are several layers of plastic and wood glued together, the latter are a wooden core with a monolithic plastic cover.
For cheaper skis, the core is made of wood with air channels. In professional and more expensive ones, it is a wooden honeycomb or made on the basis of acrylic foam with a mesh of carbon and fiberglass, lightweight polyurethane foam with carbon and fiberglass inserts (Polycell technology), Densolite foam or other lightweight synthetic materials.
The sliding surface is made from different types of plastic. For cheaper options, extruded plastic is used, for more expensive options, high molecular weight universal plastic is used.
Nowadays, many new technologies and materials are being used that keep skis light and at the same time provide strength. However, all this affects the price.
So if you're a beginner, it's worth trying a regular ski with a wood or Densolite foam core and an extruded or high molecular weight plastic skid surface. The price of such skis depends on the specific brand and ranges from 2,000 to 8,000 rubles.
What brands to pay attention to
Among the famous Russian manufacturers- STC factory. It makes both racing and recreational skis, the Sable, fiberglass ski poles.
Professional models have a honeycomb core and a PTEX 2000 (carbon fiber) sliding surface, and amateur models have a wooden core and a plastic coating. Skis are made using Cap technology and are sold at very affordable prices.
Among foreign brands (whose products are often produced in Russian factories, including STC), the Austrian ski and equipment manufacturer Fischer is quite popular.
Fischer produces men's, women's and children's professional and amateur skis, using combined materials such as a wooden core with Air Tec Basalight basalt fibers. Fischer skis can be purchased at prices starting from 5,000 rubles.
No less famous is the French ski brand Rossignol, whose production is located in Spain and Ukraine. The cheapest amateur skis with a light wood core and a plastic sliding surface can be bought for 5,500–6,000 rubles. Almost all skis of this brand are equipped with the NIS platform.
The third brand from the rating is the Norwegian company Madshus. Amateur skis of this brand are made using Cap technology with a wood core with channels, glass and carbon fiber braiding and a plastic sliding surface. The cost of the cheapest skis of this brand is 3,000–5,000 rubles.
Around the same price category, the cheapest amateur skis are from the Austrian brand Atomic and the French company Salomon. Cheaper Salomon models have a core made of dry Densolite foam and a sliding surface with the addition of graphite; more expensive, professional models have honeycomb cores and a sliding surface with the addition of zeolite.
Each brand develops its own technologies: lighter cores, adding various minerals to improve gliding, changing ski geometry. Therefore, it is best to focus on the purpose of the skis (for what purpose, recreational or sports) and the availability of a suitable length and stiffness for you.
When you ride in classic style(traditional designation "Classik" or "Cl"), the skis move along the track parallel to each other. It is worth noting that off-piste the most convenient way to travel is the classic ski, and therefore, when choosing touring skis, you should give preference to the “classics”.
Skis differ for different styles skating both in appearance and characteristics. Skate skis Briefly speaking classic(by about 15 cm), they have a blunter toe, and the center of gravity is shifted forward by “2.5 cm”.
Classic skis should be much softer so that the skier can completely crush the ski when pushing off, but at the same time, during the rolling phase, the block should not come into contact with the snow. If a person is new to skiing, then he should not purchase hard classic skis, because with poor technique, tough classic skis will slip.
Skate style
Significant improvement in sliding conditions, wide compacted tracks allow you to develop skating moves(traditional designation "Skate" or "Sk") higher movement speed compared to other moves.
In skating moves, five main methods should be distinguished: half-skate, skating without pushing off with hands (with swings and without swings), simultaneous one-step, simultaneous two-step, alternating.
The actions of a skier when moving in these ways are somewhat reminiscent of the movements of a speed skater - hence the name of the move. Pushing off with the inner edge of one of the skis back to the side (sliding stop), the skier transfers his body weight to the other sliding ski, and the movements are repeated on the other leg, pushing off from the sliding ski.
Unlike classic moves, there is no stopping of the ski in the stroke cycles. When moving with this move, the arms also actively work; repulsion occurs simultaneously or alternately in accordance with the rhythm of the legs. Skate skis must have a weight deflection that distributes the skier’s weight along the track as evenly as possible.
In skating style, when pushing off, the skis should not be completely crushed, so they should be quite rigid.
Other news on the topic:
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Before you start lubricating your skis, you need to secure the skis on a special machine. If you don’t have a machine, skis can also be mounted on a table. An iron is also needed when lubricating skis. Naturally not the same iron... -
When lubricating skis for professionals, many factors are taken into account: Temperature, humidity, snow classification. The nature of snow friction. Wind and more. Ski lubrication for gliding: paraffins, powders,... -
Half skating move Two-step skating move Simultaneous one-step skating move Alternating skating move Skating move without hand push... -
Alternating two-step stroke Simultaneous non-step stroke Basic version of simultaneous one-step stroke High-speed version of simultaneous one-step stroke Simultaneous two-step stroke Alternating... -
Rank standards. Male and female. Skate and classic styles....
The onset of the cold season does not mean at all that you need to hide at home under cozy blankets, since winter provides many opportunities for active recreation. And it is precisely this kind of rest that should accompany your leisure time in order to keep you in normal physical shape and help improve your health. Skiing is a full-fledged training of all major muscle groups with maximum strength, and even at fresh air. For example, you can go skiing, familiar to us since childhood. Despite the fact that in last years More and more fans of alpine skiing have begun to appear, and there are also lovers of more relaxed cross-country skiing. However, before choosing skis for skating, you need to decide what types of these products there are.
Main varieties
According to their intended purpose, cross-country skis are usually divided into two main types: for classic and skating. With the classic style of skating, the skier moves the skis parallel to each other, and with the skating stroke, the athlete walks in the same way as speed skaters walk, that is, he uses inner side skis to push off the snow. That is why it is worth knowing how to choose skis for skating, so that when you visit an online store or a regular sports equipment store, you can navigate your needs.
Material of manufacture
If we talk about what these products can be made of, then there are only two options - plastic and different types of wood. The former have a whole range of advantages over the latter, as they are characterized by strength, durability and the ability to develop significant speeds. They do not delaminate, which cannot be said about wooden ones, which are prone to changing their properties as a result of repeated contact with water. However, the main advantage of wooden skis is their cost, making them an excellent option for beginners who are just starting to take their first difficult steps on the snow.
Skating ski parameters
Knowing the basic parameters will help answer the question of how to choose skis for skating. What to choose will ultimately depend on their stiffness and length. The selection process should be as thorough as possible, since the comfort of the skier depends on this, but considerable importance in this situation is also given to the personal preferences of the athletes. It is important to understand that skis that are intended for skating are shorter and more rigid than classic skis, but it should be remembered that hard skis are much more difficult to control. If you answer the question of how to choose skis for skating based on height, then you need to take into account that their length should be 10 cm greater than the athlete’s height.
Subtleties of choice
Skating skis differ from classic models in the absence of curved tips, and their height, as already mentioned, should be only 10 cm greater than the skier’s height. When purchasing this option, it is very important to choose the right stiffness. Ideally, it should be calculated as follows: the skis need to be placed on a flat surface, after which a person stands on them, evenly distributing his weight on both skis. Next, you need to take a feeler gauge, it can even be a sheet of paper, to measure the clearance area between the floor and the ski in front and behind in relation to the boot. It should be approximately 35-40 and 10-15 cm, respectively. After the skier transfers his entire body weight onto one ski, the clearance area should become 10 cm or less smaller at the back and front, and the gap should end earlier than the heel of the boot.
However, not every store will allow you to do such a check, so you can use another method. If you are deciding how to choose skis for skating, then there is another option for checking them. You need to install the skis vertically, fold them together with their sliding surfaces, put your hands on the pads, and then squeeze them with force. If the clearance between the skis is approximately 3-4 mm, then they are quite suitable for you, but if the clearance is 1-2 mm, you can conclude that they are too soft for you.
So, now you understand how to choose skating skis based on their stiffness. Now it’s worth saying that it is not recommended to buy these products in a hypermarket. The best thing to do would be to go to a sports store, where you can, with the help of a consultant, choose the best one for yourself. suitable option. Typically, such specialists are well versed in how to choose skis for skating. Fisher is a popular brand worth checking out as it produces high quality products at a reasonable price. Each manufacturer has its own line for each category of skis, with different characteristics and prices. IN in this case the choice of one option or another depends primarily on how much you are willing to spend.
Ski boots
If we talk about how to choose skis for skating, then one of the important attributes in this case is ski boots. They should be hard, high, and secure the ankle. For these purposes, it is completely inappropriate to use classic boots, since they are low, and your feet will get tired very quickly during such skating. As a result, you will not get any pleasure. The size should correspond to the size of the foot, and there is no need to leave extra for wool socks. Modern boots are characterized by density, softness, and their thermal parameters are designed for use with one sock, but quite dense.
The correct selection of boots is an additional answer to the question of how to choose skis for skating. There are many things that distinguish them from the classics, so in the store you should immediately discard all unsuitable options. Boots may well become the most expensive part of the “skis - bindings - boots - poles” set, but you shouldn’t skimp on them, because poles and skis can be replaced next season, and the boots will serve you for another 10-15 years, no less.
Ski poles
There's one here general principle: the lighter the sticks, the better. The same principle applies to skis and boots. Lighter poles are made from carbon or carbon fiber, but their cost is quite high, so it is recommended to take fiberglass products. They are characterized by rigidity, lightness and relative cheapness. If we talk about how to choose skis for skating according to height, then it is important to know that poles should also be selected according to height. On average, their length should be 15-20 cm less than the height of the athlete himself. But even here it is possible that the skier will select poles according to his own criteria, because everyone is comfortable using them in different ways.
Ski lubrication
If we have already talked about how to choose skis for skating, now you need to decide on preparing the skis for use, and this is impossible without lubricating them. In professional circles, at least ten layers of different lubricants and accelerator powders are applied to the sliding surface using a special iron, scrapers and brushes. Skating enthusiasts do not need to resort to such tricks, but they should not completely abandon the use of lubricant. It’s all about the composition of the sliding surface of the skis, because it consists of high molecular weight polyethylene, and it begins to gradually wear out from constant contact with snow. If you do not lubricate your skis, then this surface will gradually turn into completely unsuitable for skiing, which is why you will need to take your skis to a professional for sanding. After every 2-3 skiing, it is recommended to rub your skis with special-purpose paraffin, and then rub it with a stiff brush. Manufacturers have also taken care of the laziest ones; for these purposes they produce aerosols that must be used before each ride.
Skating move
If your decision to learn to ski is quite firm, then you should first decide what style of skiing you will use. In accordance with this, you need to purchase skis. Not so long ago, people started skating - in the eighties of the twentieth century. The founder of this style is considered to be Gunde Svan, a legendary skier from Sweden who became an Olympic champion four times.
The peculiarity of this type of skating is that the athlete pushes off from the track inside skis. In this case, the route should have a large width and also be well compacted. The emergence of the skating style led to a change in the familiar appearance of traditional classic cross-country skiing. In addition to the fact that these are shorter skis with blunt tips, they are also products with a center of gravity shifted by 25 cm. In this case, to answer the question of how to choose skis for skating based on weight and height, you need to understand that not only the type of snow is important, but also your personal preferences.
If you just love Sunday walks on the snow on skis, then it is best for you to opt for models of medium and low hardness. Very rigid products have quite significant disadvantages - they spring and slip at the moment of impact. But here it is important to understand that their rigidity is proportional to their own weight - the greater this indicator, the greater the rigidity should be. For children, only soft skis should be selected. With their help, the process of mastering skiing will be much easier. Buying skis “for growth” is the most significant mistake parents make. This concerns the question of how to choose skis for skating based on weight.
The selection of length is made according to the formula already indicated earlier: height plus 10-15 cm. For poles, the formula is a little similar - height minus 20 cm. How to choose boots has already been said earlier.
Fastenings
Another important point, which concerns the question of how to choose skis for skating. It comes with a choice of fastenings for them. For amateur skiers, experts usually recommend using NORDIK 75 bindings. In general, these devices can be mechanical or automatic. The first option involves manual latching, and their reliability is quite high. The peculiarity of automatic fastenings is that they are activated after placing the boot bracket in the groove. This type will be the best choice for amateurs.
Fisher skis
How to choose skis for skating "Fischer"? There's a lot to be said here. Why do many people prefer this brand? These are high quality skis with excellent performance characteristics. The main advantage of Fisher skate skis is their highest strength and a special hollow core, which makes the body as light as possible. In addition, many models are produced using advanced technologies, for example, the supporting material contains special carbon fibers, which take on the task of providing maximum flexibility with particular strength. Ideal skating comfort is ensured through the use of a patented profile. Reducing the weight of the skis was also possible due to the use of a holey toe.
Another advantage of these products is the maximum removal of reference points. This allows the athlete to gain maximum stability, which may be required during training and biathlon competitions. We continue to figure out how to choose skis for skating. Reviews of products from this brand indicate their wide temperature range. For example, in their model range There are representatives focused on riding on dirty snow or during a thaw. However, practice shows that they are also well suited for training in cold weather, without even requiring the use of any special lubricants. This versatility is quite impressive.
The only disadvantages of the Fisher skis are: high cost, which is beyond the means of most domestic consumers. For professional products the price is 30 thousand rubles or more, which is quite expensive for amateurs. But the brand also presents standard modifications that have good characteristics.
conclusions
Now you understand how to choose skis for skating. Photos of these products and photographs of skiers demonstrate that this is a very important task, because they not only provide the convenience of skiing, but also the safety of the athlete. It is not necessary to immediately buy these products for yourself; you can limit yourself to renting skis. This will allow you to experience in practice which option will be most convenient for you. And if you do not have such an opportunity, then all the recommendations indicated should be useful to you. Good luck with your choice and happy riding!
For maximum comfort when skiing, it is better to choose skis and poles according to height and weight.
Table for selecting skis and poles for classic skiing
| Skier weight | Ski length | Skier's height | Length of poles |
| <45 | 170-175 | 150 | 125 |
| 45-49 | 175-180 | 155 | 130 |
| 50-54 | 180-184 | 160 | 135 |
| 55-59 | 185-189 | 165 | 140 |
| 60-69 | 190-195 | 170 | 145 |
| 70-79 | 195-200 | 175 | 150 |
| 79-89 | 200-205 | 180 | 155 |
| 90> | 205 | 185 | 160 |
| 90> | 205 | 190 | 165 |
| 90> | 210 | 195 | 165 |
For beginner skiers, they are suitable with notches or camus. They require almost no maintenance and are wider for better stability.
For experienced skiers, models with a skin or a smooth sliding surface are suitable. They are narrower, which allows for high speeds, but require maintenance to maintain speed.
Selection table for combined skis and poles
In terms of properties, these are somewhere between classic and skating, and allow you to ski in two ski styles. The sliding surface is smooth and has no notches or camus.
Selection table for skis and poles for skating
Models are suitable for beginner skiers, since there is a high probability of breaking skis and poles while improving their movement techniques.
For experienced skiers, models from well-known brands that are lightweight and have high speed qualities are suitable.
Skating move
The skating style of skiing was invented in the early 80s; before that, skiing was done exclusively using classic skiing. Skating is the fastest style of cross-country skiing. For skiing you need a wide, prepared track. More suitable for active people, lovers of speed.
It will take at least one season to master the skating technique.
You need to prepare your body physically: when skating in the skating style, all the muscles of the body are involved in the work - neck, shoulders, arms, abs, back, legs. With every kilometer you walk, your body will become stronger. And most importantly, without strong muscles you cannot learn the correct skating technique, which can lead to injury. Special attention You should pay attention to strengthening your knees and lumbar back. And be sure to stretch all muscle groups before and after training.
Mastering skating technique is not an easy task. Needs good coordination strong back, strong arms and legs. This will give you a good ride and high speed when riding. To develop your legs, back and coordination, ride without poles. To develop your arms, abs and back, ski on the ski track at a stepless pace (doublepoling).
To begin with, you should master the two-step skating stroke. Learn how to do a long ski on one ski and how to push with your hands correctly. Gradually move to a skating, simultaneous one-step move.
Equipment for skating
To get started, buy inexpensive but high-quality skis and poles. When buying boots, focus on comfort, not cost.
When you feel like you're lacking speed, switch to more expensive skis.
Classic move
The classic move is the very first move that was used to move on skis. It is slower than skating and not as difficult to master. For skiing you only need a ski track, which you can lay yourself in any convenient place near your house. Will do calm people for families who want to strengthen their body and immune system.
Recommendations for those who want to ride classic style
Mastering technology
The classic move is mastered almost immediately; it is similar to normal walking. At first, your speed and endurance will be noticeably lower than that of experienced skiers, but over time, if you learn the technique and strengthen your muscles, you can easily ski 10-20 km without stopping at high speed.
Particular attention should be paid to strengthening the legs and lumbar back; classic skating without poles will help with this. And be sure to warm up your muscles before and after skating to avoid injuries.
Inventory
For maximum comfort when skiing, you need to choose the right classic skis, especially the version with notches. The difficulty is that a classic ski has 2 functions - to roll forward well, and not to roll back when going uphill. Each ski size has an individual stiffness that can be checked. Skis that are too soft will always sag - touching the snow with their notches (this reduces the speed), and skis that are too hard will always maintain their bend - preventing the notches from catching on the snow (the skis will shoot when climbing uphill).
If you are a beginner skier and ski rarely, buy inexpensive, high-quality skis. If you are an experienced skier and like to ski often, buy more expensive and high-quality skis from well-known brands. It is better to buy boots that you feel comfortable in, regardless of the price.
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