When the dog guard service appeared 7. Chapter iv. guard service. Competition for the title of the best

Guard and sentry service

Guard dogs promptly notify by their behavior (they are alert, strive to move forward, but without barking or squealing) about the appearance of strangers. They are used to detain a violator and escort him, search the area and premises, as well as search for people using fresh (hot) scent trails. The German Shepherd is most suitable for this, but you can use dogs of other working breeds (Airedale Terriers, Giant Schnauzers, Rottweilers, Collies). Dogs must be of average or slightly above average height, have keen eyesight, good sense of smell and hearing, and have average excitability

Special skills of guard dogs include: viciousness; skills of detaining, guarding, escorting people; trainer protection; skills of searching for a person using a scent trail, searching the area and premises; prolonged alertness in place and on the move.

The development of these special skills should begin after the dog has established good contact with the trainer, developed the skills of moving next to him, as well as skills in responding to the commands “Come to me!”, “Sit!”, “Fetch!”, “Fu.” !

The training of dogs suitable for guard duty begins with the development of anger, courage, and the development of skills in detaining and escorting people. The dog is taught to find people by scent, search the area and premises, and guard in place and on the move.

"Call" - a system for organizing the protection of an object by a small dog

You probably often hear in everyday life how the little four-legged watchman is called “bell”. Many owners of watchdogs and service dogs underestimate the importance of small dogs in common system protection of a home or cottage. The fact is that a small dog in nature great amount enemies, and in order to survive, she has to be constantly on alert. Large dogs are not subject to the same fears that overcome the baby. They are strong, physically fit, confident in themselves and their capabilities. Therefore, they are accustomed to showing concern only if their safety is threatened by something serious. The larger the predator, the more confident it behaves, the less natural enemies. But as you know, the enemy can be cunning and insidious! It is already too late to differentiate the danger when the enemy attacks. "Forewarned is forearmed". That's what the ancients said. But large dogs have problems with notification.

If you really want to have a reliable system for the protection and defense of your property, we recommend introducing a small mongrel into your “cannibalistic” pack, which will become an indispensable harbinger possible dangers and troubles. Believe me, not a single big one can compare in sensitivity to a dog of “door terrier” origin. Being a member of the pack, she will raise the alarm and call for help from the entire “bone-crushing brethren,” who will instantly place emphasis on distant approaches. Attackers will prefer not to approach once again to the object of desire with such serious security. After all, the best fight is a fight that didn’t take place.

Development of anger in a dog. Trainer protection.
Detention, security, escort of people

All these skills are developed using the method of training dogs for protective guard duty. It should be borne in mind that the development of anger in dogs intended for guard duty should take into account the characteristics of their behavior. It is not recommended to train angry dogs extensively to develop anger, since subsequently, when developing the skills of performing guard duty, it is difficult for them to develop self-control (not to bark when strangers approach, etc.). In dogs that are low-maligned, phlegmatic, malice needs to be developed to a greater extent, so that on this basis they can be trained to search for a person by scent trail, detain him, and protect the owner from attack.

Searching for a person by following a trail

Guard dogs must be prepared to work on fresh (hot) scent trails of people after an hour. The technique for developing this skill is the same as for training detection dogs. At the end of the training course, the development of tracks is combined with other special training techniques. For example, first a dog is allowed to search the area to detect a scent trail, then it works through it, detains a person and escorts him. Such training brings the training of guard dogs closer to real conditions their services

Search of the area and premises

This skill allows the guard dog to detect strangers, their belongings or traces. The skill of searching an area is developed using the method of training search dogs. The training method for searching premises is the same as for searching an area, with the only difference being that objects and people are in the premises. The dog must search a section of terrain or a room according to a certain system: in a zigzag pattern, in squares that the trainer mentally marks out before the search in order to avoid missing areas. The trainer must constantly control the dog’s actions, help it with commands and gestures

Watchdog in place and on the move

This skill is developed using the method of training search dogs. Considering its special significance for guard dogs, this technique is practiced especially carefully and more time is devoted to it than to others.

Requirements for guard dogs

Upon completion of the training course guard dog must acquire the following skills:

  • When guarding in place and in motion, silently (without barking or squealing) notify the trainer with your behavior (alert, strive forward) about the approach of strangers, but less than 50 m away, detain and escort them, protect the trainer (owner) from attack;
  • search the area and premises, find hidden people, their belongings and traces;
  • work through scent trails of at least 500 m in length after at least 30 minutes.

Guard duty

Guard dogs increase the reliability of the protection of various objects, homes and surrounding areas (garden plots) and make it possible to reduce security (the number of sentries, watchmen). They must bark at approaching strangers and detain them when trying to enter a protected facility. Guard dogs are kept on a short (tight) leash at a checkpoint (unfree guarding) and without a leash (free guarding).

The most suitable for guard duty are Caucasian, Central Asian, South Russian and German shepherds, black terriers and Moscow watchdogs. Other dogs that are quite vicious are suitable for guarding apartments and gardens. Guard duty is successfully carried out by large, physically strong and hardy dogs with good hearing, smell and vision.

Post equipment

Posts are set up for training and use of guard dogs. A post is a section of terrain or a covered room intended for dog protection and suitably adapted. A post for using a dog on a short (tight) leash is installed directly at the protected object (at the door to a warehouse, barn, near the entrance gate, porch, etc.). The dog is kept on a chain, which is fastened to a harness and a specially equipped pole. If the guard dog is at front door the chain can be attached to the dog's harness and ring attached to the door frame or the bottom of a post-mounted kennel. The length of the chain must be such that the dog on duty can freely approach the guarded door, entrance, etc.

A standard checkpoint is equipped as follows. A cable with a diameter of 1 cm is pulled between wooden posts and a wire with a diameter of 0.6 cm is stretched at a distance from the ground of less than 1.5 m. Along the entire length and width of at least 8-10 m, the checkpoint area is cleared of anything that could impede the movement of the dog. In the middle of the area, somewhat to the side, a booth is installed so that the dog can enter it. A wooden shield measuring 0.75 x 1 m is placed near the booth.

A free guard post where a dog is used is equipped with a fence around the protected area or object. The fence must be solid, at least 2 m high, with a gate. The protected area is cleared of debris, piercing and cutting objects. If guard dogs are used in premises (shops, warehouses, warehouses, etc.), there should not be free access to open food products or substances that can cause poisoning to the dog. The location of objects (loads) should provide the dog with access to doors and windows.

When training guard dogs, an important role is played by assistant trainers who are well aware of training methods. Assistants need to be changed. Trainers must closely monitor the work of assistants and promptly influence the dogs with appropriate commands and gestures.

In the process of training guard dogs, they develop special skills: malice and distrust of strangers with prolonged barking, guarding a post on a short (closed) leash; security at the checkpoint; guarding a free guard post.

Before starting special training, dogs must develop the following OKD skills: movement next to the trainer; approach to it; command skills: “Sit!”, “Stand!”, “Ugh!”; the dog must react calmly to gunshots and other strong sound stimuli; do not take food found on the ground or thrown by strangers; must be accustomed to a muzzle, collar, harness and leash. Conditioned stimuli - the command “Guard!” and gesture right hand stretch the palm down towards the assistant trainer, and then lower it to the thigh of the right leg with a slight tilt of the body forward), auxiliary commands: “Face” and “Fu!” and the exclamation “Good!”, unconditional - the assistant trainer, his actions (strikes with a rod, a tourniquet).

Development of anger and distrust of strangers in the dog
Their active barking

Anger and distrust of strangers are developed in dogs according to the method of preparing them for protective guard duty.

Training a dog to bark on command
The voice (barking) of dogs at the command of the trainer is developed during the period of general training. Unlike barking on command, a guard dog must independently bark actively and for a long time at strangers. Barking is taught in the following way. The helper, coming out of the shelter, at a distance of 50-60 m from the dog, performs actions that excite it (waves his arms, makes quick movements, hits the ground with a rod or a tourniquet) and attacks the dog after it barks at him. The trainer gives the dog the command “Guard!”, and encourages barking by stroking and exclaiming “Good.”

You can use the imitative method of training (group development of anger). In this case, one to four trained dogs are tied close to the vicious and well-barked assistant dog, with their trainers nearby. The helper tries to anger the dog with his actions, after which the others begin to bark and attack the helper. Trainers, using the command “Guard!”, encourage the dogs. The exercise lasts 2-3 minutes, then repeats 3-4 times with different assistants. After the dogs begin to bark at the helpers, showing an active defensive reaction, they move on to their individual training at posts.

The most serious mistake when developing the skill of barking is quickly attacking dogs with blows (they are not teased first). Dogs have an unwanted connection ( vicious dogs do not bark, expecting an attack from helpers; weak and timid ones begin to be afraid of them).

Preventing intentional dog poisoning

A guard dog should not take food from strangers or from the ground. This skill is developed during the period of general training. In the process of special training, the skill of refusing food is improved and consolidated. In various publications devoted to training, the issue of preventing the possibility of poisoning an animal through food products unacceptably little attention is paid.

However, this problem is very serious. Buying, raising and training a dog requires significant effort and money. An attacker can instantly undo your work and efforts with a small piece of minced meat stuffed with a toxic substance. In addition to the fact that the death of your four-legged pupil will be painful, your family members will also receive a terrible moral shock from the sight of a dying animal. As a rule, poisons manifest themselves in the body quite late, when almost nothing can be done to save the dog. We won't consider moral aspect act of an attacker, but it is within your power to try to prevent him from carrying out his dark plans. Read this chapter carefully and choose the method that is most suitable for you. Some authors give examples of a radical solution to the issue of anti-poisoning in Nazi Germany. Although before the start of the war the Nazis did not, at least openly, train dogs on living people, the training method was very, very harsh.

For example, after preliminary training, which developed a refusal of food scattered near the training site, the final stage was carried out with the use of POISON. It is known that wolves, dogs, jackals, and foxes can perfectly resist any attempt at poisoning. If there is a lot of poison in a poisoned piece of meat, the animal will vomit this piece and will never take the poisoned bait again. If there is little poison, regurgitation will occur when it has already partially penetrated the body. The animal will get sick and die for life.

First way

The first method is based precisely on the fascist methodology, adapted to modern realities. To do this, purchase a syringe with an emetic, for example apomorphine, from a veterinary hospital, and the dose should be one and a half times higher than normal in order for the dog to receive strong negative reinforcement. Try giving your dog an injection after feeding and watch it with a watch to see how long it takes for it to start vomiting. Mark the desired number, and a few days before going for a walk, ask someone you know to scatter pieces of delicacy in a pre-agreed place: sausage, cheese, etc.

Let's assume that it will take you 1-2 minutes to go out into the yard. And after an injection with an emetic, the dog begins to vomit within 3 minutes. This means your dog has exactly 1 minute left to eat the scattered treats. Do not feed the dog for a day before this exercise, then it will begin to sweep away the lying food with tripled energy. Unlike the German method, this method is humane and leaves the dog 100% alive, regardless of whether it was able to recognize the poison in the food or not.

Literally immediately after swallowing the last crumb of the delicious provocative food, vomiting begins. The dog associates this reaction primarily with the food it has just picked up. To consolidate the results obtained, you can repeat the exercise, changing the “intruders” scattering food, the types of treats, and the area where the dog picks up the food. The main thing is that the cause-and-effect relationship is firmly established in the animal: any food outside the walls of the house is poison.

Second way

It can be used at any time, in any area. Your helper scatters treats in a certain place and hides nearby. He is holding an air pistol or rifle. You calmly, as if by chance, head towards the desired area with the dog. When it grabs the bait, it is immediately fired from an air gun. The animal will associate the painful effect with the food it picked up on the ground. This method is good because it receives negative reinforcement simultaneously with food entering the mouth. To ensure that your dog does not associate the sound of an air pop with pain and that he is not afraid of it, fire shots into the air while walking. Thus, it turns out that the shot does not lead to pain, but eating food outside the walls of the house leads to pain.

Third way

It uses a radio shock collar. The subtlety of the situation is that if it is used incorrectly, the animal associates the painful effect solely with the collar itself, and not with the food that it picks up. Therefore, so that the result does not disappoint you, you need to perform some preparatory work. Any use of this electronic device includes a set of measures aimed at deceiving the dog. We need to accustom the animal to wearing a shock collar within a few days. In order for the battery to discharge, it must be turned off. Let the dog sleep, take nice walks, lead a normal life, but with a non-functional collar.

You can use the collar already at the moment when the dog turns its nose and raises its ears, attracted by the smell of food, so that it receives negative reinforcement from the very aroma of the treat offered by the attacker. You can also use the collar when the animal is actually trying to take the treacherous treat into its mouth. The impact must be very strong for it to firmly take hold in the animal’s consciousness.

There is one more nuance. Incorrect or untimely use of the collar can lead to negative reinforcement of an event or action that we did not even consider.

For example: a dog ran up to a piece of delicious-smelling sausage, grabbed it to eat it, and at that moment a crow sat down next to it, or a person passed by, or a bush rustled in the wind, you never know what situations might arise. Naturally, you press the remote control remote control shocker and get a result diametrically opposite to what you expected. The dog associates the pain from the electric shock with one of the above factors, but not with food intake. In addition, in dogs with thick and long hair The contacts from a standard electric collar do not reach the skin. Accordingly, the device may misfire, so it is necessary to wet the junction area with water for better conductivity of electric current.

In some individuals, the sensitivity threshold is so high that they do not feel the impact of the electric pulse. In a word, there are a great many disadvantages in using this device.

Fourth method

This method is usually recommended for training puppies and young dogs. It's quite simple. Strong nylon cords 50-70 cm long are tied to pieces of delicacy. An assistant scatters the bait throughout the area. The dog eats the treat, but since the pieces are small, he swallows them without chewing. She cannot swallow the entire length of the cords, and the ends of them stick out of her mouth. You approach your dog and use the cord to drag the cord along with the swallowed piece from the animal’s belly. Naturally, this procedure is painful and unpleasant for your pet. After several such activities, it is firmly in his head that all the food swallowed on the street will be pulled out of his mouth.

Fifth method

It is recommended to use it in early age. During walks with the puppy, the assistant leaves pieces of meat, cheese, minced meat, rotten fish and similar treats in a pre-agreed place. The handler and the puppy without a leash head to the staging area. The owner knows where the bait is left and is prepared for the puppy, attracted by the smell of food, to try to pick it up. The conductor has a whip or rod in his right hand; you can use a whip.

At the moment when a carefree puppy grabs a treat from the ground, you should a strong beat on the nose. After the blow, it is necessary to immediately stroke the puppy, take pity on it and give it your treat. Thus, we let him understand that the pain came from the food picked up from the ground, and not from the owner. After a few lessons, the puppy will growl at the discovered bait and try to avoid it.

Some breeders have other advice. It is recommended to lubricate pieces of meat with mustard and horseradish - supposedly the strong taste will create negative reinforcement and the animal will stop picking up stray food.

But only with tough, borderline foul methods can we wean the dog from picking up scraps and thereby save it from possible poisoning. Few people will dare to openly shoot her; the enemy will act on the sly, and you have a real chance to prevent the death of your pet.

And remember that even if he dies from poisoning, his death will give your four-legged guard a signal that your enemies have insidious plans towards you or your property. After all, if during his lifetime he was an insurmountable obstacle for them, draw conclusions and strengthen security measures, since the enemy is nearby and threatens you.

Guarding the post on a short (closed) leash

This skill is developed by complicating the skill of anger and distrust of strangers in order to teach the dog to guard the place where the post is established. The first classes are held in the daytime. To develop the skill, the trainer ties the dog to a chain in the place where it will serve as guard. Having given the command “Guard!”, the trainer stands behind the dog. An assistant comes out of the shelter, from a distance of at least 50 m, and, stealthily, approaches the dog. If she barks at him, the dog is rewarded with the exclamation “Good!”, and the helper runs for cover.

If the dog does not bark, the assistant provokes it with movements, then inflicts light blows with a rod or tourniquet, and the trainer gives the commands “Face!” and “Guard!” After displaying an active defensive reaction, the helper runs away and the dog is rewarded. In the next lessons, the trainer, having given the command “Guard!”, leaves the dog and hides, watching it. The helper throws food and, when the dog tries to take it, gives it light blows with a rod or tourniquet.

The training process is complicated - classes are conducted at dusk and at night, in any weather. The distance between the assistant and the post is adjusted to 70-80 m. During training, shots are fired. The assistant then approaches the post with great caution, at varying intervals. It is necessary to achieve barking when rustling and noise occurs. For reinforcement, you should occasionally give the dog the opportunity to grab and tug at the helper's clothing. If the dog barks at the assistant at a distance of at least 40 m from the post and shows constant alertness, the training on a tight leash is completed.

The skill of guarding a checkpoint requires the dog to develop the skills of barking, actively pursuing and detaining people trying to enter a guarded facility.

Teaching a dog to move along an equipped checkpoint and towards
the sound of the ring (roller) rubbing against the cable

First of all, the dog is taught to move along the equipped checkpoint and to the sound of the ring (roller) rubbing against the cable (wire). Days of this, the trainer, fastening a chain to a ring (roller) and holding it, walks with the dog along the checkpoint, and then runs, stroking the dog. If she is not afraid of the sound of friction and runs freely around the checkpoint area, the trainer, giving the command “Guard!”, goes to the shelter.

The assistant, coming out from the opposite side of the post, makes the dog bark. Having approached the checkpoint at a distance of 5-8 m, he throws up food, and after a few minutes he walks or runs along the checkpoint, provoking the dog to chase him. After this, he tries to cross the post area under a tensioned cable (wire). If necessary, the trainer gives the commands “Guard!” and “Fass!” If the dog attacks and detains the assistant, the trainer exclaims “Good!” encourages the animal and, coming out from behind the shelter, leads the assistant away.

The second assistant teaches the dog to be indifferent to the sentry. At the beginning of the lesson, he stands close to the dog, then walks along the checkpoint 40-50 m from it, gradually reducing the distance to 20-25 m. If the dog starts barking at him, the first assistant sneaks up and attacks it. Gradually the dog gets used to the second assistant and stops reacting to him.

To make the lessons more difficult, they are carried out at dusk, at night, in any weather, during shooting (the second assistant shoots). The distance between the first assistant and the checkpoint is increased to 70-80 m. Assistants should change more often.

Training a dog to search an area and detain people

The dog is then trained to search the area and detain people. The assistant passes by the checkpoint and, when the dog barks at him, runs away and hides at a distance of 70-100 m from the post. The trainer takes the dog on a long leash and, giving the command “Search!”, directs it to search the area. The assistant discovered by the dog is detained, escorted and handed over to a third party (instructor).

Free guard

For free guarding, dogs are trained after developing anger and distrust of strangers. The skill is developed as follows. The dog is allowed into an area surrounded by a solid fence at least 2 m high. The assistant carefully approaches the fence from the outside and every time various places a rustle causes him to bark, then runs away. When the assistant appears, the trainer gives the dog the command “Guard!” and, if she starts barking at the assistant, she encourages her with the exclamation “Good!”

To teach the dog to actively attack the helper, the latter, in a training suit, climbs over the barrier and begins to fight the dog. At first, the trainer is near the dog and gives the commands “Guard!” and “Fas!”, then the dog is left alone to guard.

Training dogs to guard indoor spaces

When training a dog to guard an enclosed space (warehouse, warehouse, apartment, etc.), the trainer should be inside, and the assistant, approaching the front door, makes various rustling noises (shuffles his feet, taps on the walls, tries to open the door). The trainer gives the command “Guard!” and rewards the dog for barking with the exclamation “Good!” In the following classes, the assistant tries to break into the room. The trainer with the command “Fas!” encourages the dog to attack the helper. The skill is reinforced in the same way, but the dog is left alone to guard.

Training a dog to freely guard apartments and other human dwellings

To freely guard apartments and other human dwellings, the dog must be disciplined and not very angry. The skill is developed as follows. Taking the dog to short leash, the trainer approaches the front door with her. The assistant makes a rustling noise before entering the apartment (the door is not locked). The trainer gives the command “Guard!” and, if the dog starts to bark, reward it. Attempts by the dog to attack the helper are stopped with the command “Fu” and a tug on the leash. If the dog tries to run after the assistant coming out, the trainer holds it with a leash.

In the following classes, the dog is off-leash in one room and the handler is in another. After the dog barks at the assistant, the trainer comes out to her, encourages him, lets the assistant into the room and makes sure that the dog does not bite him. When the dog has acquired the skill of barking at an incoming person, they begin to practice the skill of attacking the helper and detaining him.

Training a dog to attack and detain

Skills are developed in this order. The assistant enters the apartment and stops without making sudden movements. After the dog barks and calms down, the assistant suddenly strikes it, and the trainer gives the command “Fast!”, directs it on a leash towards the assistant and detains him.

In the future, to complicate the exercise, the assistant tries to attack the trainer or take his thing.

Possible trainer mistakes

  • Strong blows from the helper when attacking the dog (the dog exhibits a passive defensive reaction).
  • The dog is at the post not on a harness, but in a collar (the throat of excitable dogs is compressed by the collar when an assistant approaches, which causes a decrease in activity).
  • Using only one or two permanent assistants (an unwanted connection arises - barking and attacking certain people).
  • Carrying out training at the post at the same time (the dog develops the habit of working well only at a certain time of day).
Requirements for guard dogs

After completing the training course, the guard dog must:

  • maintain vigilance at the checkpoint for a long time;
  • bark at people located at a distance of at least 40 m from the post;
  • actively and courageously defend the post;
  • detain strangers who enter the post;
  • do not take food from strangers or from the ground;
  • Don't be distracted by shots.

Guard dogs are used to serve in the protection of various buildings, warehouses, shops, gardens, airfields, railway bridges and other objects.

The main purpose of a guard dog is to warn a sentry or watchman with a loud bark about the approach of unauthorized persons trying to enter the facility, as well as to fight them and assist in arresting them.

Guard dog service is only aid, enhancing the reliability and vigilance of security. Therefore, it is impossible to place a dog at a post out of earshot of its barking, or, moreover, to entrust the guarding of an object only to a dog.

Guard dogs can be used for duty at any time of the day (mainly after dark), in any weather and visibility, during fog, heavy snow and rain. In addition, guard dogs are successfully used to guard hidden approaches to an object.

Guard dog post called an area of ​​terrain adapted for the use of a guard dog, or an enclosed space.

Guard dog posts can be of two types: non-free guard post, when the dog is on duty while on a leash near a door, gate, in a narrow passage or on a suitable area of ​​terrain; free guard post- in this case, the dog is without a leash in an area fenced off on all sides or in a closed, isolated room.

Non-free guard posts, in turn, are divided into movable And motionless.

motionless such a post is called when the dog is on a chain (on a tight leash) and the radius of its movement is approximately two meters (the length of the chain). To set up a fixed post on the territory of a protected area cleared of debris, a pole with a diameter of 20-25 cm and a height of about 50 cm (from the ground) is dug into the ground to a depth of 1-1.5 m. A bracket is firmly attached to the post, to which a chain with two swivels is attached, which are necessary so that the dog cannot get entangled in it.

A fixed post is usually installed when guarding narrow passages, at the entrance to a room near the entrance gate or door, and also in cases where for some reason it is impossible to equip a mobile post or a free guard post.

On mobile post (checkpoint) the dog can be assigned an area of ​​up to 60-80 m for protection. In this case, the dog, while on a leash, can move along the length of an adapted wire rod along which a ring (roller) attached to the dog’s chain slides. The checkpoint can be suspended or ground-mounted.

To construct a suspended checkpoint, two pillars with a diameter of at least 20 cm are dug into the ground to a depth of at least 1.5 m. The distance between them should not exceed 80 m and may decrease depending on the length of the protected area.

A wire with a diameter of 6-8 cm is stretched between the posts; a strong, well-welded ring or roller is put on it, to which the end of the chain with swivels is attached. The height of the pillars above ground level is 2-2.5 m; it depends on the distance between the pillars and the length of the wire (the greater the distance, the higher the pillars should be). When tensioned, the wire must have a deflection in such a way that in the center of the checkpoint it is not lower than 1.5 m from the ground. You cannot pull the wire too much, as in this case it will be very springy and will cause pain to the dog during sudden jerks and throws forward. This can have a detrimental effect on the quality of the dog's work.

To prevent the dog from getting entangled around one of the posts, limiters are placed on the wire near them for approximately the length of the chain (about 2-3 m), preventing the ring (roller) from sliding all the way to the posts. To tension or loosen the wire, you need to have a corresponding device at one of its ends. Between one of the limiters and the post, you can fit a hollow cylinder with bolts screwed into it (lanyard) (see appendix). The territory of the protected area, as well as at a fixed post, must be cleared along the wire to a width of at least 6-8 m.

The ground checkpoint has almost the same structure as the suspended one. When equipping a ground checkpoint, the poles to which the wire is attached protrude above the ground only 20-30 cm and therefore the wire in the middle of the block can come into contact with the ground. To make the chain ring slide better along the wire, the ground along the block is well compacted and a small depression is made (this reduces the possibility of the wire coming into contact with the ground) or well-planed and fitted boards are laid. In this case, it is also recommended to make a limiter, but a roller is not used to slide the chain.

A ground checkpoint is usually equipped to camouflage the post or in cases where a wire stretched at a height of 1.5-2 m will interfere with the movement of traffic.

A guard dog trained for duty must meet the following requirements: 1) when guarding is not free - to warn the sentry by barking about the approach of a stranger no closer than 40 m from the post with outside protected object; 2) when standing guard freely - warn the sentry by barking about an attempt by an outsider to enter the territory of the protected area (premises); 3) be distrustful of strangers, showing an active defensive reaction towards them, enter into a fight with them and detain them until the counselor arrives; 4) not show a passive defensive reaction to shots, explosions and other strong sound stimuli; 5) do not take food thrown by strangers, and also do not pick up any food on the ground.

In accordance with these requirements, dogs with a predominant or strongly expressed active-defensive reaction are most suitable for guard duty, and dogs with a pronounced food reaction are unsuitable. In terms of the type of higher nervous activity, dogs that are closer to the unbalanced excitable and balanced active type should work better. Guard dogs must have good hearing, normal sense of smell, vision and healthy teeth. By appearance These are large, strong animals with good muscles and thick fur.

Among service dogs, the best guard dogs are our domestic shepherd dogs. Caucasian, Central Asian, South Russian, and also Eastern European.

Positive results gave experience to the Central School of Military Dog Breeding in breeding new breeds. Breed groups such as Moscow Watchdog, Black Terrier and others are successfully used Lately for guard duty.

Training a guard dog includes a mandatory minimum of general training techniques and special techniques necessary for successful performance. practical work.

The mandatory minimum of general training techniques includes: approach to the counselor (command “Come to me”); movement next to the counselor (command “Nearby”); transition to free Out of Service(command “Walk”); stopping unwanted actions (command “Fu”); indifference to gunshots and other strong sound stimuli; training to use a muzzle and harness; training to stand in place (the command “Stand” - for cleaning and examining the dog).

The standards for practicing these techniques are the same as for dogs of other services, with the only difference being that the training of guard dogs can be completed on an extended leash (this reduces the distance from the dog to the trainer when performing techniques).

To use a dog for guard duty, it must develop the following skills, which make up a special training course: development of malice, courage and distrustful attitude towards strangers; accustoming to active, continuous barking of strangers; developing the correct grip; skill in guarding a fixed or mobile post, as well as free guarding (depending on the purpose); training to refuse food offered or thrown by a stranger, as well as food found on the ground.

When conducting special training classes, the role of assistants is especially important. The success of training and the speed at which the dog develops the necessary skills primarily depends on the correct actions of the assistant. Therefore, only people who are well acquainted with the technique of practicing special skills in a dog can be recruited as assistants. These must be brave and energetic people.

To conduct classes, it is necessary to involve several assistants (it is advisable that they change at each lesson), since the presence of a certain assistant can cause an unwanted connection in the dog - an active-defensive reaction will manifest itself only to this person.

During classes, you should strive to create conditions that are closest to the environment that can be encountered in reality. Therefore, before each lesson, the trainer must instruct the assistants in detail in advance, familiarize them with the individual characteristics of the dog, without allowing any artificiality in their actions.

Such instruction must be carried out in the absence of the dog, since during classes a natural environment must be created, excluding any instructions or conversations.

IN exceptional cases, if it is necessary to give any instructions to the assistant, the trainer must do this with conventional signs or signals invisible to the dog.

In an effort to bring the training environment closer to the actual situation that can be encountered in practical work, it is necessary to pay due attention to the clothing of assistants when the dog is displaying an active-defensive reaction, when it develops viciousness, as well as when practicing detaining and escorting a person.

When conducting these classes with dogs of guard, protective guard, search and other services, the assistant performs not only responsibility, but in some cases also dangerous work(strong bites are possible).

To protect against bites, there are special training suits and robes made of canvas, quilted with cotton wool. Their disadvantage is that such “clothes” are sharply different from ordinary ones. With regular use of training suits, the dog forms an undesirable connection: an active-defensive reaction appears only to a person dressed in a training robe or suit. To avoid this, helpers should only wear protective clothing when emergency, sometimes replacing it with a training sleeve, usually worn on the right hand (Fig. 32); When the dog is on a leash, you can do without it. But even when using a protective sleeve, the assistant must show sufficient dexterity, observation and experience to be able to expose it to the attacking dog at the right moment. Experienced trainers very rarely use special robes and suits. This, of course, involves some risk, but it gives good results.

Practicing special techniques usually begins after the dog has developed the skills to general techniques and the necessary contact with the trainer will be established.

Rice. 32. Training sleeve.

All the work of a guard dog is based on the development and consolidation of its active-defensive reaction. The basis for further development of all special techniques of guard duty is the development of malice, aggression, courage and distrustful attitude towards strangers.

To reduce the effects of various distracting stimuli, the first classes on the development of anger and distrust should be carried out in an environment familiar to the dog, in a quiet place, with a minimum amount of distractions. It is advisable to change the place of training periodically so that the dog does not develop an unwanted connection to the place where the training is held.

The first lessons are conducted in the presence of a trainer. He ties the dog to a chain or keeps it on a strong leash. It is advisable to put it on the dog wide collar or a special guard harness (Fig. 33).

Having hidden in advance in a designated place, the assistant, posing as an intruder, begins to attract the dog’s attention. At short intervals, rustling noises should be heard (in the first lessons, quite strong). Then, making sneaking movements, he hesitantly approaches the dog. The trainer excites the dog to attack the assistant with the command “Fass”, pointing at him, and when the dog actively attacks, encourages it with the exclamation “Good”.

Swinging a soft tourniquet at the dog, the assistant tries to provoke it into aggressive actions, and his behavior should show the dog that he is afraid of it. This is especially important when training is insufficient active dogs. When the dog gets excited enough and begins to attack the helper (Fig. 34), he should throw the tourniquet, run and hide behind cover. After this, the trainer rewards the dog. After some time, when the dog calms down enough, the assistant’s “attack” is repeated. This exercise for developing anger should not be repeated more than two or three times in one lesson.

Rice. 33. Dog in a guard harness.
Rice. 34. Development of viciousness in a dog.

It happens that a dog reacts weakly to an attack by a helper. In this case, other methods can be used to make her more active. The helper can, for example, switch the “attack” from the dog to the trainer (its owner) or pretend that he is trying to take away the feeder with food intended for the dog from the trainer.

Depending on the aggressiveness of the dog, the assistant’s offensive actions should be intensified each time, up to the point of inflicting light blows on the dog. However, we must not forget that the purpose of the training is to develop aggression and malice in the dog. Therefore, under no circumstances should its activity be suppressed. The helper must closely monitor the dog and, taking into account its behavior, “retreat” at the right moment. In classes and during training, the dog should always remain a “winner”.

Each time after the helper leaves, the trainer should reward the dog with an exclamation of “Good”, stroking and sometimes a treat. But when encouraging guard dogs, as well as dogs of other services that require the development of an active-defensive reaction to strangers, you should not overuse giving treats; It is better to limit encouragement to exclamations of “Okay” and stroking.

As soon as the dog begins to actively attack the helper, the trainer gradually moves away from it, and then leaves the tied dog alone. But at the same time, he continues to observe her actions during all classes in order to come to the rescue at the right time. This is especially important at the beginning, when it is necessary to arouse aggressive actions in the dog. In these cases, the trainer encourages her with the command “Good”, excites her with the command “Fass”, and also with a joint “attack” on the assistant.

Sometimes, during training, the trainer must choose the right moment to let the dog apprehend the fleeing assistant. This is necessary to reinforce the active-defensive reaction; This action accustoms the dog to a correct and strong grip, develops greater aggression and, at the same time, brings the training closer to the conditions of the actual situation.

In order to develop the correct and strong grip, the assistant should try to switch her attack from one hand to the other while fighting her. As soon as the dog grabs his right hand, which he exposes when it attacks, he must strike with his left hand in order to switch the dog’s attention to this hand. Then, in the same way, switch her attention to her right hand. As a result, you can ensure that when fighting, the dog will inflict not one, but several bites, learning the correct grip with an interception.

The assistant “detained” by the dog, after a short struggle, stops resisting, and the trainer runs up and forces the dog with the command “Fu” to stop active actions in relation to a calmly standing assistant. If the dog is very excited and does not comply with the command, you need to repeat the command and at the same time apply physical coercion. After a short delay, the trainer encourages the dog and takes him away from the assistant, and another assistant (familiar to the dog) escorts the “intruder” and takes him out of the dog’s field of view.

After several sessions, each time the dog develops an increasingly active defensive reaction, it becomes more wary, more distrustful of every stranger, and ceases to be afraid of blows. Having achieved this, you need to transfer the dog’s specialty training to the place where it will serve in the future. If the dog is intended to serve at a stationary post, further development and consolidation of the acquired skills is carried out already at this post.

Having tied the dog on a chain, the trainer gives it the opportunity to familiarize itself with the protected object, and then gives the command “Guard” and, going behind the cover, observes its actions. This command must be given every time after placing the dog at the post. In the future, as a conditioned stimulus, it will serve to alert the dog at post.

After the trainer puts the dog in position, the assistant conducts the same exercises as during the development of viciousness; Thus, the dog’s acquired skills are consolidated, but in the context of its practical work. Since the main task of a guard dog is to warn with a loud bark about the approach of strangers, it is necessary to pay attention during training Special attention to practice active barking.

Typically, a dog barks as a result of excitement caused by the helper's actions. The trainer should use this moment to reinforce the skill of barking at a stranger during training. The trainer must each time encourage the dog to bark at the assistant who appears, and in addition, stroke it and give the commands “Okay”, “Voice”.

Sometimes, with active barking, the helper may not approach the dog and make fewer movements. But gradually even the sight of an assistant will cause more and more continuous barking. In this case, you need to excite the dog only after it stops barking. After a series of such exercises, the dog will also bark at a helper calmly approaching it or even standing motionless. However, the dog's barking for no reason must be stopped immediately by the trainer.

Accustoming a dog to work on a mobile post requires preliminary training in accustoming to the block, since the sliding of the ring (roller) along the wire causes noise - a phenomenon that is not familiar to the dog. If the dog is not first trained to be calm and indifferent to this noise when working, the dog will not only be distracted by it, but may also show cowardice, even to the point of refusing to work. To avoid this, the trainer accustoms the dog to working on the block gradually. Having tied the dog by a chain to the ring of the block, he slowly walks with it along the block and monitors its behavior. If the dog begins to show anxiety caused by the noise from the movement of the ring, the trainer distracts it with games, treats, etc. Then he speeds up the movement with the dog along the block and starts running. After making sure that the dog is not paying attention and is not distracted by this noise, the trainer moves on to training with the participation of an assistant.

To get the dog to move around the entire block, the helper runs along the block, trying to pull him along with him.

During the first lessons, the trainer encourages the dog to attack the assistant with the commands “Guard” and “Fass”.

You should also sometimes use two helpers at the same time, who, appearing alternately from different ends of the checkpoint, force the dog to move along the block from one to the other.

Non-free guard posts, both fixed and mobile (block post), are installed, as a rule, in such a way that the dog guards the approach to the object from the outside (from the front), without being distracted to the rear. In order to develop differentiation in a dog, that is, to teach it to be alert and notify with active barking in only one direction, the assistant during training must approach it from different starting points, but always from the front side of the object.

At the same time, the dog is taught not to react to people passing in the rear of the guarded facility, and especially to the sentry, who is usually located at the rear of the post, at a distance of at least 25-30 m from the dog.

To do this, the trainer places the dog at the post and, having given it the command “Guard,” does not leave the dog’s field of view, but remains in the rear of the post, at a distance of 30-40 m from it. After a while, the assistant, portraying a sentry, approaches the trainer from behind cover from the rear, and they begin to walk slowly and calmly. The second assistant, posing as an intruder, carefully observes the behavior of the dog from behind cover and, if it begins to be distracted by the assistant sentry, forces it to switch to itself, quickly approaching the post from the front and exciting it with its actions.

During the training, the trainer gradually begins to move further to the rear, and finally the training is carried out without him (the trainer is in a shelter). As a result of this, the dog learns not to be distracted towards the rear and not to react to a sentry or other person located in the rear of the post.

However, at some sites the dog is trained to guard both from the front and from the rear of the post. So, for example, they prepare a dog to serve inside the facility near the fence and train it to bark about the appearance of a stranger and not allow any person to enter the facility through the fence or leave the facility.

In such cases, the dog's training changes accordingly. To do this, during classes, the assistant, posing as an attacker, must appear and cause aggression in the dog with his actions not only from the front, but also from the rear.

Training a dog to work at a free guard post should begin after it has sufficiently developed malice, aggressiveness and a distrustful attitude towards strangers.

The trainer brings the dog to the territory where it will subsequently work, and, without letting it off the leash, gives it the opportunity to familiarize itself with the situation; at the same time, the trainer checks the preparedness of the post and finds out whether it is possible to leave the dog at the post (whether there is a free exit for the dog from the territory, whether there is damage to the fence, wall, door, window; whether garbage and various objects with which the dog can injure itself have been removed, and etc.).

After inspecting the object, the trainer lets the dog off the leash and at the same time gives the command “Guard”. After some time, at a conditioned signal from the trainer, a pre-instructed assistant begins to imitate rustling sounds from the outside of the fence. Attracting the dog's attention with the command “Guard” and a directing gesture, the trainer begins to move quickly and draws the dog to the place where the rustling sounds are coming from.

At this time, the assistant climbs onto the fence (or climbs over it) and begins to excite the dog with his actions. In the future, the lesson is carried out in the same way as when training a dog to work at a stationary post or at a checkpoint.

When preparing a dog to guard an enclosed space, an assistant during training enters the room through a window or door after he attracts the dog’s attention with a rustling sound; he can also hide indoors in advance.

It is recommended to assign each free or non-free guard post to a specific dog. This will allow the dog to get used to fasting well, be less distracted by new stimuli associated with changing fasting, and therefore it will work better and more alert.

The time for placing dogs at posts is set depending on the situation, but the maximum duration of service of dogs at outdoor posts should not exceed ten hours a day without a shift.

In this article I will talk about protective guard service for dogs. I will explain what ZKS is, its benefits, and the skills that are instilled in dogs during training. I will describe the benefits and mistakes during training. I will give an example of a course on ZKS.

ZKS is a training system for dogs specially developed by military border guards. Aimed at training dogs to have protection skills and unquestioning obedience to the owner.

What is a ZKS for dogs?

ZKS is a training course during which the dog develops certain necessary skills. The technique is standardized and applicable to all animals, regardless of breed, age and size.

The main work of the service is aimed at the formation of a certain type of nervous system. Cultivating courage, unquestioning obedience to commands, and orientation in an emergency situation.

Skills of protective guard service

ZKS instills in pets the ability to protect their owner and property from strangers in any situation. In this case, the animal does not pose a threat to human health and does not cause bodily harm.

Skills imparted during the course:

  • identifying the owner’s and strangers’ things (finding necessary things by smell);
  • human protection (training a dog to rush at an intruder without a command while protecting the owner);
  • conscious refusal of food (which may be offered by an attacker);
  • guarding the owner’s belongings (training to keep strangers away from the owner’s belongings);
  • a certain attitude towards gun shots (does not show cowardice at the sound of a shot);
  • escort (learning to guard an intruder and stop him when he tries to escape);
  • delaying the attacker (developing skills to distinguish between situations when it is necessary to attack and when not);
  • execution of the command “FU” (must release the person on command in time).

During the training process, the sense of smell, endurance, courage, attention, and distrust of strangers develop.

Animals are trained by certified instructors at a specialized training ground.


Benefit

After completing the ZKS course, the animal knows how to behave in an emergency situation and quickly gets its bearings on the spot. Becomes an excellent defender of his owner and his property.

During training, dogs are trained to unquestioningly carry out human commands, protect him and stop intruders.

Course on protective guard service

The training system is designed specifically for training service and working breed dogs.

Only healthy animals are allowed to take the course: mentally and physically. The animal must first pass basic course training. The lesson is conducted by experienced instructors at a specially adapted training ground.

The animal must be at least 18 months old at the time of testing.

Errors during training

Improper training in most cases does not bring the expected results. In the course of incorrect training, you can ruin the dog’s character: make it nervous, cowardly, and disobedient.

Training dogs in closed, familiar habitats does not produce visible results. An animal feels comfortable in a familiar place and is more likely to remember commands, but when going into another space, the pet may become confused and not show the qualities that were brought up in it.

The dog should be trained by an experienced specialist who is well versed in the theory of training and has great experience on practice.

Mistakes made by inexperienced dog handlers are divided into two types:

  1. Technical. Incorrect use of incentives and irritants (leash, hand pressure, treats).
  2. Methodical. Untimely development of certain skills (early transition to more complex exercises, when the dog’s habits in tasks of the previous level are not formed).

Some reasons why trainers make mistakes:

  • dog training without taking into account individual characteristics, template, according to a proven methodology. It appears in the case of evaluating the results of training at the end of the test, without taking into account the degree of preparation of a particular dog before undergoing training;
  • retraining. A tired dog cannot follow commands and learn correctly.
  • subjective(the trainer misinterprets the dog's behavior). It is often associated with the humanization of the dog, when the animal is perceived as thinking and understanding human speech. At the same time, the dog handler begins to rush to get the result and gives the dog inaccurate commands, accompanied by unnecessary gestures and movements. Or contradictions arise and commands are reinforced negatively.

For example, the command “come to me” should be rewarded with a treat or praise. In a situation where the dog runs away, the dog handler gets angry and demands the “come to me” command, and then punishes the running animal for disobedience. Instead of reward, the dog receives punishment (for which the punished does not understand) and next time refuses to carry out the command.

There are many reasons. In order to avoid them, you need to contact only reputable dog handlers and trainers.

In the article I talked about the protective guard service. She explained what ZKS is, its benefits, and the skills that dogs are taught during training. Described the benefits and mistakes during training. She gave an example of a course on ZKS.

General provisions

The acceptable minimum age is 18 months.

Having an OKD diploma is not necessary, but in the absence of a diploma, dogs must be tested by a judge according to OKD testing standards for the following skills:

– movement of the dog next to the trainer;

– display of the dog’s bite and attitude towards the muzzle;

– the dog’s approach to the trainer from a place or from a free state;

– stopping unwanted actions.

Dogs that score in these skills are allowed to take part in tests for guard duty. minimum scores, but not lower than a third degree diploma.

The following skills are tested for guard duty:

– the dog’s behavior on duty, attitude towards the “front” and “rear” (checked as a whole);

– barking range, barking activity, post protection and dog’s voice (checked simultaneously);

– the dog’s attitude towards food thrown or placed on the post (checked as a whole);

- attitude towards the shot.

Description of skill execution


Dog behavior on duty, attitude towards the “front” and “rear”

Command “Guard”, directing gesture.

The judge checking the dog, before placing it at the post, hides behind some kind of shelter located at a distance of 15-20 m from the post, allowing one to observe the behavior of the dog. The first assistant is located at a distance of at least 70-80 m in front of the post in the shelter.

The second referee (“sentry”) is 20 m from back side post.

The trainer, on the instructions of the judge, places the dog on the chain of the checkpoint, leads it along its entire length (from one limiter to the second), gives the command “Guard!” and a gesture towards the exit of the first assistant, while he himself goes to cover, located 15 m from the rear.

The dog must look warily and attentively to the front, not be distracted towards the trainer who has left to the rear of the post, and not react to other stimuli.

The skill is considered failed if the dog is distracted towards the rear and does not stop barking for more than 5 minutes.


Barking range, barking activity, post protection and dog voice

After 5-10 minutes, an assistant in a protective suit, when called by the judge, slowly moves towards the center of the post. When the dog starts barking at him, he puts a flag.

Not reaching 20-25 m, he changes direction and goes to one of the checkpoint posts, approaches the dog at a distance of 5-8 m and continues to move parallel to the post, trying to cross it.

The dog should bark loudly and actively at the first appearance of the assistant, moving along the line of the post depending on the direction of his movement, and when trying to cross the post, actively attack the assistant and make strong grips.

The dog should not be afraid of the helper, stop barking and retreat when he tries to cross the line of the post. The skill is considered failed if the dog does not bark at the helper within 20 m, and also if it does not have a grip.


The dog's attitude towards food thrown at the post

When trying to cross the line, the assistant offers the dog a treat from his hand and then throws it on the ground.

The dog should be indifferent to the food, not take it, not be afraid of food thrown or offered from the hand, and not stop barking at this time and attack the helper.

The skill is considered failed if the dog eats the food.


Attitude to the shot

As soon as the dog begins to actively attack the assistant and grabs the sleeve, another assistant – the “sentinel” – fires a shot at the judge’s signal.

When fired, the dog must not stop barking and attack the assistant attacking from the front.

At the judge’s command “Take off the dog!” the trainer runs out of the shelter, fastens the leash, puts on the muzzle, after which he unfastens the chain and leads the dog away. If necessary, releases the assistant from the dog's grip.

The skill is considered failed if the dog stops grasping or barking.


Checkpoint equipment

To set up a checkpoint, two pillars with a diameter of 15-20 cm are installed, which dig into the ground to a depth of about 1 m at a distance of 30 m from one another.

The height of the pillar from ground level must be at least 2 m.

At a height of 1.5-2 m, a wire with a diameter of 0.6 cm is stretched between the pillars so that, sagging in the middle part of the site, it is not lower than 1.5 m from the ground.

Before attaching the wire to both posts, several rings are put on it; a strong chain 2-2.5 m long is attached to one of the rings (the rest are spare). The end of the wire is attached to the posts in a specially hewn recess or to a metal hoop.

A limiter is placed on a wire 1.8-2 m from each post to prevent the ring from passing through and to prevent the dog from running behind the post (the wire is twisted, a stationary ring is installed, etc.).

To strengthen the pillars, in order to prevent them from tilting towards the middle of the post, guy ropes should be used.

The territory of the post is cleared of bushes, stones, etc.

Depending on local conditions, the posts may be replaced by trees, one side of the wire may be attached to a fence post or to the wall of the house, but all specified dimensions must be observed.

The Protective Guard Service (PSS) dog training course was developed in the Soviet Union in the mid-20th century. The main purpose of this training discipline is to develop security and protective skills, as well as to develop the ability to select an object by smell. Basically, such training is used to prepare service, search, guard, and patrol dogs.

Today, training for protective guard service is gaining popularity among amateur dog breeders, since the skills acquired in training the guard dog are also needed in Everyday life. However, in pure form protective guard service is not entirely suitable for ordinary life. Those who want a dog to guard the territory belonging to the dog’s owner, his property, the owner himself and his family members, in training it is necessary to develop the skills of both ZKS and KS (guard service) - the combined program “Training dogs for home protection”.

Our Center’s specialists will be able to prepare your dog for both passing tests in the course “Protective Guard Service” and “Guard Service”, as well as in a combined program for using the protective qualities of a dog at home.

After completing a training course in a combined program - training dogs for home protection - your dog will be able to:

    protect the owner and his family members;

    protect the territory and property of the owner;

    detain and escort an attacker or an intruder trying to enter the owner’s territory;

    do not react to any external stimuli (sharp sounds, bright light, thrown food);

    control and differentiate the situation in any conditions.

It is important to remember that it is impossible to train a dog in the “Protective Guard Service” and “Guard Service” courses on your own! Classes should be conducted exclusively by an experienced dog handler and a specially trained person - the person involved (assistant) and only with the use of special protective equipment (sleeves, vests, suits).


ZKS and KS– quite complex types of training, and you need to approach the choice of a dog handler very carefully. Training with a poorly qualified or inexperienced trainer and an illiterate participant can lead to serious violations in the dog’s psyche – the dog will either be overly aggressive or, conversely, very cowardly. In this case, it will be additionally necessary to carry out dog behavior correction, which requires special efforts in terms of effort, time and finances. Therefore, it is best to contact experienced specialists immediately.

The employees of the Smart Dog Dog Training Center have many years of experience work in the field of service dog breeding, where protective guard and guard services are one of the main training disciplines. Also, our dog handlers have participated in various competitions many times. The dogs that our specialists worked with passed the standards for ZKS and KS with an “Excellent” rating, and also repeatedly took prizes in competitions for ZKS, KS (Guard Service) and IPO (International Test Standard).

Guard duty

Guard duty - special type training, the purpose of which is to train a dog to protect various territories and structures (at home - apartments, private houses, summer cottages; in business settings - gardens, warehouses, shops and other objects).

The main task of a guard dog is to warn, by means of loud barking, the entry of an intruder into the territory, fight against him and detain him.

There are two types of guard dog posts - a non-free guard post and a free guard post.

During non-free guarding, the dog is tied on the outside of the guarded object. The leash can be either fixed or movable. The length of the chain must be sufficient so that the dog can freely approach the protected object.

When guarding freely, the dog is located in a section of the territory that is surrounded by a solid fence 2-2.5 m high so that the dog cannot leave the guard post without permission. In the second option, a corridor is made for the guard dog along the fence, 3-4 m wide and no more than 100 m long. Such a corridor should be clearly visible to both the dog and the guard, both from the inside and from the outside. If the protected area is large, then several such corridors are made. Free guarding can also be done by a dog indoors.

There are certain requirements that a dog must meet to complete the “Protective Guard Service” course:

    The dog must be at least 12 months old at the time of training.

    The dog must have a strong nervous system and a stable psyche.

    Healthy, physically developed dogs with a strong dental system, good sense of smell and hearing are allowed for training.

    The dog must clearly and flawlessly carry out obedience commands, and is also required for service dogs. passing standards By General training course(OKD) and obtaining a diploma.

To train in the “Guard Service” course, the dog must meet the following requirements:

    Age – at least 1 year.

    The dog must have a pronounced active and defensive reaction.

    The dog must have a stable, balanced psyche.

    The dog must have excellent: hearing, vision, smell; strong, healthy teeth.

    In appearance, a guard dog must be physically developed, have strong muscles and thick fur.

What breeds of dogs are suitable for the “Protective Guard Service” course?

In the field of service dog breeding, this course is mainly taught to dogs of service breeds: German Shepherd, East European Shepherd, Boxer, Doberman, Malinois, Airedale Terrier, Black Terrier (Russian Terrier), Giant Schnauzer, Staffordshire Terrier, American Bulldog, Rottweiler and others.

Not all large dogs, appearing formidable and ferocious, are suitable for taking the ZKS course. Due to their character traits, such dogs cannot perform some of the required skills. For example, Caucasian and Central Asian Shepherd Dogs they do not select an object by smell, since due to their innate qualities these dogs are not predisposed to fetching objects. At the same time, these breeds are very well suited for protecting territory and owner's personal security.

What breeds of dogs are suitable for the “Guard Service” training course?

Shepherd dogs are considered the best breeds for guard duty: Alabai (Central Asian), Caucasian, VEO (Eastern European), South Russian. Moscow guard and black terriers also show good results in guard duty.

When preparing a pet for passing the ZKS standards, the following skills are practiced:

a) sampling an object by smell;

b) protection of things;

c) indifferent attitude towards the shot and the food that was thrown;

d) guarding the coach, detaining the attacker and escorting him.

A dog that has been prepared for guard duty must meet the following requirements:

1) while on guard duty (on a leash) on the outside of the protected object, the dog must warn the guard by barking about the approach of a stranger 40 m away;

2) in the case of free guarding, the dog must bark to warn of an attempt to enter the protected territory;

3) be distrustful of strangers, fight the attacker and detain him until the guard arrives;

4) do not react to external stimuli, such as shots, explosions and other loud sounds, as well as to food thrown by the intruder.

Competent training by our specialists will help your dog become a real guard, and will guarantee you peace of mind and safety!

Investments in the education of a future defender will amount to 2000 rubles for 1 lesson!

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