Growth factors
Text: Tiina Orasmäe-Meder, cosmetologist, developer of Meder Beauty Science
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Mysterious growth factors have become one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetology for last years. Any mention of them - “cream with growth factor”, “gel for eyelashes with growth factor” - makes the product more popular, according to marketers. However, not only potential buyers of cosmetics, but also many cosmetologists do not understand very well what these factors are and what they can increase. And most importantly, why is this good?
The first substance called growth factor was discovered by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in 1952. After transplanting an extra limb into a chicken embryo, they discovered that the embryo developed extra nerve endings around the graft. Then they transplanted mouse tumor cells into the same unfortunate embryo, and sensitive nerve endings appeared in the tumor! The extract isolated from the tumor was named growth factor: NGF (nerve growth factor) - growth factor of nervous tissue. In 1959, another nerve growth factor was isolated from snake venom, and in 1962 the first epidermal growth factor was discovered - it was found in the submandibular gland of a mouse. The researchers even got Nobel Prize for his find, although only in 1986. Today, dozens of different growth factors have been discovered, and their number continues to increase. Biologists believe that growth factors ushered in a new era in cell biology and significantly changed views on the processes occurring in the human and animal bodies.
If we describe the mechanism of action of growth factors as simply as possible, then we can say that they regulate the growth and reproduction of cells, their differentiation (the transformation of unspecialized cells into specialized ones), support healthy condition and the functioning of all organs and tissues.
As it turned out, any cell in the body produces certain growth factors. For example, epidermal cells (keratinocytes), dermal cells (fibroblasts) and pigment cells(melanocytes) secrete and respond to various factors. All growth factors activate biochemical processes aimed at restoring and regenerating the skin, increasing the volume of synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, which helps restore skin elasticity and density.
Various factors interact with each other, being synergists, that is, friendly to each other. Increasing the activity of one factor stimulates the activity of another, and so on, along the chain. But not a single factor in isolation can create the effect of true skin rejuvenation - they only activate biochemical reactions; In order for them to be fully realized, preserved skin reserves are necessary. Therefore, the use of drugs with growth factors does not exclude the use of nutritional, moisturizing and other agents.
Any cosmetic product that contains one or more growth factors can be considered cosmeceutical, that is, not only improving appearance skin, but also affecting its deeper structures.
Important Feature growth factors is that they interfere with the processes of “internal aging”, along with “external” ones. In recent years, quite a lot of research has been carried out confirming that cosmetics containing one or more growth factors, the amount of which corresponds physiological characteristics skin, can reduce the manifestations of aging, slow down and even partially reverse the processes of external and internal aging. It is believed that by using growth factors it is possible to change the "hardwired tendency" of cells to stop reproducing or dividing; reduce the loss of skin collagen (normally, every year of life after 25 years we lose about one percent of collagen); slow down the thinning of the dermis; reduce damage to elastin. External aging involves changes that occur as a result of exposure to ultraviolet radiation, smoking, etc. Growth factors can restore damaged blood vessels, reduce dry skin, tighten pores and even out complexion.
Until the age of 25, our skin has enough of its own growth factors, but then their quantity and activity decrease every year. The use of growth factor products, theoretically, helps compensate for age-related deficits.
Many growth factors are used in cosmetology, the most popular of which is probably epidermal growth factor (EGF).
In addition to this, you can find the following ingredients on the label of creams for aging skin:
Transforming growth factor (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3);
- vascular growth factor (VEGF);
- hepatocyte growth factor (HGF);
- keratinocyte growth factor (KGF);
- fibroblast growth factor (bFGF);
- insulin-like growth factor (IGF1);
- platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF-AA).
Transforming growth factor enhances the synthesis of new collagen, keratinocyte accelerates the division of epidermal cells, insulin-like and platelet-like regulate and accelerate the growth and division of skin cells. Hepatocyte and vascular factors growth stimulate the growth of new blood vessels in the skin. It should be noted that the growth of new blood vessels can lead to increased sensitivity, so drugs containing VEGF and HGF should not be used for sensitive, irritated and damaged skin. However, these growth factors are used successfully in the treatment of baldness and other hair-related problems. Fibroblast growth factor is used to stimulate the growth of eyelashes: it is part of most famous products with which you can quickly achieve “fan” eyelashes.
Epidermal growth factor has sufficient wide range effects: it stimulates cell growth and division, renewal of the epidermis. When using products containing EGF, there is a gradual increase in the synthesis of DNA, RNA, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin. As a result, they can quickly improve the appearance of aging skin. Epidermal growth factor is even called beauty factor.
All growth factors are small in size and have a fairly low molecular weight: for example, EGF has atomic mass about 6,200 daltons and consists of 53 amino acids. That is, he is capable quite easily
penetrate the skin, breaking its protective barrier. For faster delivery of growth factors, transport systems (nanosomes, liposomes, etc.) can also be used.
In fact, main question regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology: how safe is it? The fact is that growth factors can play not only a “good role” (in particular, when they are produced by the body during injuries and promote healing).
On the labels growth factors, according to INCI, are designated as follows:
rh-Oligopeptide-1,
sh-Oligopeptide-2,
sh-Polypeptide-1,
rh-Polypeptide-3,
sh-Polypeptide-9,
sh-Polypeptide-10,
sh-Polypeptide-11,
sh-Polypeptide-19, etc.
Other titles:
E.G.F.
FGF-7
KGF-1
heparin-binding growth factor 7 (HBGF-7),
VEGF, FGF,
I.G.F.
TGF et al.
An increase in the number of growth factors is observed in many types of tumors, and their number can also increase with autoimmune diseases: for example, when rheumatoid arthritis found in joints and skin high concentration VEGF.
Some researchers believe that continuous use cosmetics containing growth factors can cause tumors or other health problems. In addition, a possible increase in the risk of severe scarring and even the development of keloids at the site of injury and damage is associated with the use of TGF. The use of products to stimulate eyelash growth has also given rise to debate: ophthalmologists believe that they can cause eye inflammation. There is also no complete confidence that growth factors actually penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and can seriously affect the aging process.
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In general, the official position regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology can be formulated as follows:
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