The next day after arriving in Slyudyanka, my friends and I went our separate ways. different sides. Sashka went to Ulan-Ude to visit his relatives, our “non-mountainous” friends decided to “hang out” on the shores of Lake Baikal, and we had plans to go to Sobolinoye Lake. The trail to the lake starts from Vydrino station and runs along the border of Russia and Buryatia along the Snezhnaya River, along which people often raft on catamarans. Zhenya and I took the bus to the point we needed and hit the road. After the mountain trails, walking along a flat, albeit unpaved, road was very difficult; we got tired quickly. Plus, we never found a clear map of the route to Sobolinoye Lake, we only knew that it went somewhere into the forest in the area of the 2nd power line. In the area of this line, we peered into the forest for a long time, trying to find a path, but it felt like no one had walked here for a long time. We decided to go aside and try to walk along the banks of Snezhnaya. However, we lost a lot of strength and dug into some swampy place where boletus and cattails grew in heaps. As a result, we decided not to get lost anymore, to go back and stop for the night, because... It was starting to get dark. On the side of the road we found a cozy clearing, where they apparently often stop for the night with tents and laid out their uniforms. While we were busy with the tent, several people passed by, but we were so tired that we didn’t even want to hear about Sobolinoe Lake. When they decomposed, I stayed to light the fire, and Zhenya went to get water, bringing back the following footage:
And while I was lighting the fire, I felt some kind of anxiety. Although the clearing seemed cozy, I felt uncomfortable being in it. Or maybe the nearby road had this effect on me; I apparently became wild during those few days while I was in the mountains. And only a little black mouse running in the clearing and picking up crumbs of food from previous tourists distracted me from dark thoughts... But at night this very mouse did not let us sleep at all. Apparently, she decided to crawl up to our gingerbread cookies in a bag that stood in the vestibule of the tent, and all night we listened to scratching sounds and knocked on the walls of the tent, trying to drive away the mouse, but it turned out to be not one of the timid ones. As a result, after a huge number of attempts to fall asleep, we hung the bag from the tent lines and finally fell asleep!
In the morning we returned to the highway and walked along the other side of Snezhnaya to Tyoplye Ozera. Warm lakes are a complex of 3 lakes: Izumrudny, Mervtogo and Lake Skazka. Despite the fact that the lakes are very close to each other, chemical composition they are completely different, which suggests that these lakes are not connected to each other.
During the day the river looked like this 
And along the roadsides there were centuries-old thick poplars and huge ferns growing, giving this place its beauty and mystery. 
The road led us to a recreation center, which was located on the shore of Emerald Lake, so we decided to stop in the forest on the shore of Snezhnaya. Coming out to the river we gasped. The forest was divided into areas where people who came here by car rested. Although we must pay tribute, people cleaned up 90% of the forest after themselves and put the garbage in bags, which were prudently laid out near the tents by the guys who cared about the cleanliness of the forest. Despite the huge number of people around, we decided to stand right there. And then we went to look around the surroundings 
At Warm Lakes we had our own task - to climb to the top of the Monomakh Cap mountain located here. It has the shape of a pyramid and its height is only 685 meters, but climbing it is not easy, because... you have to climb almost like a monkey, clinging to all sorts of ledges and tree roots with your hands. The mountain is located at the foot of the Dead Lake, which really makes such an impression. We climbed to the top in the beginning of a light rain. The view from the top was amazing. The feeling that this mountain was so small at the top did not arise at all; on the contrary, it seemed that you were high above the world. At the top there was nowhere to make room - a small patch strewn with coins in gratitude to the spirit of the mountains for such beauty, we also left our coins... 
And in the evening it started to rain heavily, which then turned into real bad weather. Early in the morning, under the sniffling of all the people sleeping peacefully in their tents and cars in the forest, we collected our wet things and set off on the way back. At the Vydrino station I had to stand for a long time waiting for the minibus, because... The train to Slyudyanka was expected only after lunch. We were pretty cold in the cold rain and we weren’t able to buy anything at the nearest store because... Our money was big. But finally, after 3 hours, a minibus arrived and took us to Baikalsk, where we managed to swallow a sausage in dough with coffee from a plastic cup and ran to the minibus to Slyudyanka, whose driver was waiting for us while we had a snack. And in Slyudyanka I had to wait for the last train to Irkutsk, because... our guys were already there, and we had no other transport. When we loaded onto the train in the evening, it turned out that repair work was being carried out on the railway tracks and instead of the required 3 hours, we traveled for the entire 5. Upon arrival in Irkutsk, tired, hungry, cold, we fell out of the carriage and piled into a taxi, which and drove us to the airport. Outside, “the bad weather was getting worse,” the rain was still pouring down, and on top of that, a gusty wind was blowing. We looked with envy at people in raincoats, jackets and boots. At the airport, a board showed that a lot of flights were delayed due to bad weather. We didn’t want to stay in such an exhausted state at the airport and we kept our fingers crossed that our plane would be sent on time. Although it seems that Moscow did not accept planes because of the strong smog, we were so cold that we wanted to fly somewhere, and then we would be able to see... But there was still a whole night left before the plane, and in the meantime we went to eat in our "Christina", we went to the nearest supermarket to buy Buryat liqueurs, returned to the airport, where we met a sleeping family, and ourselves found ourselves on iron chairs, passing out at the moment. In the morning the plane was boarded and we happily trudged to the exit. It was still raining outside, and the plane, with a roar and shaking, tore us out of the gloomy clouds and took us to the stuffiness of Moscow... 
This is how our trip turned out this time. Not all plans were realized, but we are not upset. The trip turned out to be very eventful and interesting, and most importantly, we managed to avoid the days when smog and smoke in Moscow were at their peak. And this summer we are going to Baikal again!
Apiary and temple monastery at the base of Shahan
Where is Psebay
Village Psebay located at the very foot of the Caucasus Mountains, in the South-Eastern part Krasnodar region. Administratively, it belongs to the Mostovsky district, which borders Karachay-Cherkessia and Adygea. Stretched along the left bank of the river Malaya Laba for 12 kilometers in a wide mountain valley. The altitude above sea level is 400 meters. From the east the valley is covered by a mountain range Shahan, consisting of a chain of mountains with maximum high point 1200 m. The ridge rises from the west Gerpegem from which there is a great view of the village itself and the entire valley.
View of the valley where the village of Psebay is located 
Everywhere you see meadow flowers, sometimes of quite exotic shapes. 
Where there is an abundance of flowers, there are fluttering butterflies How to get to Psebay
I described the route in sufficient detail in my previous article. I publish here map route from Armavir and to the final point.
Armavir-Psebay travel route map It’s better to get there, although there are also bus routes from cities such as Rostov and Krasnodar. The nearest city with railway connections is Armavir. From there there are minibuses and you can take a taxi if you arrived from afar and by train. (distance to Psebay -120 kilometers, - 1.40 - 1 hour 50 minutes) Price trips from Rostov around 500-600 rubles.
View of the peaks of Shahan What to do in Psebay
In Soviet times, Psebay was positioned as one of the centers hiking in the North Caucasus. Here was the beginning of one of the popular treks along the tourist route “ Psebay – Krasnaya Polyana». Now mountain tourism every year it becomes more and more popular. Also, local landscape conditions and weather in Mostovsky and Psebay are conducive to such types of recreation as rafting, jeeping And cycling.
Hotel in the form of an impregnable medieval castle colorful and actually accessible Some routes pass through the territory Caucasian Nature Reserve. To avoid problems with rangers, it is better to register permission, the office of one of its departments is located in Psebay. 10 kilometers along the road in a southerly direction, behind the village Transshipment There is border post, where, if necessary, you can obtain documents for passage through the border zone, address st. Industrial, 226.
If you climb Mount Shapka, you will see a picturesque view with depth in the background For me, as an amateur hiking in the mountains, the Psebai mountain region has become an alternativeMountain Adygea with its famous plateauLago-Naki , where it became too crowded, especially on weekends. For 15 years, I went on vacation every year to those parts and followed the development of infrastructure. The places are not inferior in beauty to other areas of the Caucasus Mountains, but sometimes you want to be away from people and closer to nature.
Alpine meadow near Psebay 
Plane SP-30 of the Psebay aviation club On the right bank of the Malaya Laba opposite the village there is a village Andryuki , there is a grass airfield and flying club, where the annual gathering of small aviation enthusiasts from all over Russia takes place. When I first arrived in Psebay and while driving around the area I saw this airfield, I immediately stopped by and made an agreement with the local pilot hang-glider(not to be confused with a hang glider, which does not have a motor). The next day, for a reasonable fee, we flew with him over the valley and nearby mountain ranges.
A hang plane from the village of Andryuki will take you above Psebay 
Petrovich on takeoff 
The view from the deltoplane is open in all directions Both the village and the mountains around it look fascinating, stunning views and the whole set thrills you are guaranteed. I recommend everyone to try a bird's eye view, especially since, unlike an airplane, the view is all-round and free, and not from the cockpit through the glass. The entire Caucasus range and nearby mountains, such asBig Thach and famousDevil's Gate . If anyone decides to fly, then dress warmly; at altitude it is much cooler than on the ground, even in the heat.
View of Gerpegem from Shahan You can climb one of the mountains of the Gerpegem ridge, since the climb can begin immediately from Psebay. Stunning views at any time of the year, and in the summer there are also aromas of mountain herbs and flowers. The hike is not difficult, accessible to any age and experience.
View from Mount Shapka to the Skirda plateau In the village of Perevalka, which I have already mentioned, which belongs to Psebaysky rural settlement, is one of the nearby attractions of the mountainA cap, You definitely need to climb it. The ascent is short and not difficult; the path to the top passes through a shady forest with giant trees and giant boulders.
Petrovich on top of Mount Shapka The mountain offers a picturesque panorama of the Malaya Laba River and a view of the plateauSkirda. If after this you are not overwhelmed with delight, and you do not mentally thank God for the opportunity to see this beauty, then it is better to sit at home and watch TV!
Petrovich on the suspension bridge in Perevalka In Perevalka there is suspension bridge across the river, you can cross it and climb the forest road along the river Hungarian, in the upper reaches of which is located waterfall in several cascades. The places are completely wild; the passage to the waterfall through the thicket cannot be found right away.
Waterfall on the Vengerka River But I followed the sound of the water and finally found it by half-overgrown marks on the trees made many years ago. Judging by the lack of a trail, no one has visited this waterfall for a long time. After something like this you feel almost like a pioneer.
The Malaya Laba River in the Perevalki area 
In fact, the water in the river is not that cold There are many in the forest mushrooms, can be found bison, according to the stories of local old-timers. Found in the river trout, and lovers of fishing in mountain rivers love to come to these places.
Malaya Laba River in bad weather The village is also interesting because it is after it that they begin high mountains, a mountain road passes through it along the gorge along the Malaya Laba River. The only path that leads to points such as villagesStormy , Nikitino AndCordon Chernorechye .
Petrovich in the waters of the thermal spring in Mostovsky Mostovskoy – thermal springs
The administrative center of the district, the village of Mostovskoy, is located 40 kilometers from Psebay to the north. It is famous throughout the country for its thermal springs, the infrastructure of which has rapidly developed in last years, with hotels, recreation centers for every taste. The water temperature at the outlet is +85 +90 degrees, but it is supplied to the pools in parameters from +37 to +44. The water is saturated with many microelements and mineral salts, which is extremely beneficial for the body. Helps with problems with the musculoskeletal system, nervous exhaustion and stress. The springs are especially popular in the cold season; in winter there is a full house, despite the rather high prices for accommodation for the area. have to to book places at the bases at the springs in advance, especially on weekends.
Beam attachment location ancient dwelling on Mount Shapka But for his readers Petrovich gives hint How to get around this problem and not spend extra money. This recommendation is only suitable for those who travel with their own transport. You can stay at bases somewhere in Psebay or the surrounding area, fortunately there are enough of them there, and the prices are an order of magnitude lower than in Mostovsky and go to the thermal springs buying a one-time visit to the baths. I assure you that even with gasoline consumption it will be cheaper, I checked it personally, I tried both options.
Meadow flowers of Gerpegem will go to hikers Mount Kizinchi Located 66 kilometers from Psebay on the left bank of the river Hodz, slightly before reaching the village Bagovskaya, north of the village Kizinka. You will have to go through Mostovskoy; there is no shorter road. You can cross to the left bank via an iron bridge, not very presentable in appearance, but strong enough for any type of transport.
An incomprehensible natural phenomenon in the Psebaya Mountains awaits its researchers The mountain stands alone and is very majestic, with an abundance of grottoes and niches that arose naturally as a result of natural influences. It consists of two tiers of rocks - the topmost and the second just below, consisting of separate pillars resembling fingers. Between the tiers there is a path along the entire southern slope. From this path and from the very top of the rock there is a picturesque view of the Main Caucasus Range and the Small Bambaki as well as towards Mountain Adygea.
In Kizinka, grazing horses came out to meet On the road from Mostovsky to Psebay, in front of the village Shedok there is a left turn with a sign
"White Rocks", once there was a sanatorium on the banks of the Laba River, now it’s either a recreation center or a summer cottage, we’re not talking about it. There is a children's sports camp nearby, and there is a suspension bridge to the other side. The place itself is interesting; the outcropping of white limestone rocks on the right bank and along the river bottom makes this place especially picturesque.
Petrovich swims on the White Stones It is also a favorite swimming place for the surrounding population; in the summer months, the water running down from the mountains manages to warm up to a comfortable temperature while remaining crystal clear. The depth is quite shallow, which is very popular with children who love to splash around and scare the little fish scurrying along the bottom. Smooth limestone blocks of bizarre shapes create natural swimming pools in which you can relax under a natural massage with fast streams of mountain water. At other times of the year you can simply relax in good location, admiring the views.
Petrovich walks along the terrace to the top of Mount Kizinchi 
Mountain flora 
View from Mount Kizinchi to the valley The village of Psebay is becoming more and more popular every year among tourists who prefer the so-called “Wild Holidays”. Mostly people strive to get to these regions to fully enjoy the beauty of the surrounding nature. Moreover, there are quite a lot of places here that deserve attention.
A little history
The village was created back in 1857, but it became truly populated in 1862. During these years, families of Cossacks and soldiers began to come here. Psebai developed quite slowly. Rapid development began in 1888, when Nicholas II’s cousin, Sergei Romanov, moved here. He leased a huge amount of land. He ordered the building of a church and a hunting lodge. They have survived to this day, are considered historical monuments and are among the sights of the village.
IN Soviet times here began the route (on foot) to Krasnaya Polyana, through the Caucasian Nature Reserve. Over time, it was abandoned and only in the year 2000 it was not only resumed, but also new routes were planned. These places are especially popular among tourists who are interested in hang gliding, rafting, jeeping, and so on.
Caves around Psebay
In the area around the village of Psebay there are a lot of mountains, and therefore caves. Many of them have become part of tourist routes. Gunkin caves are the most impressive in these parts. They are located in a beam with the same name, there are four of them in total. A river flows from the largest and most popular one. It has three halls, united by a narrow and low peculiar corridor. The first hall is the smallest, the second is a little larger and the third is the largest. Its height is about 10 meters, and its width is from 12 to 25, with a length of 80 meters. While the first hall is only forty-five meters long, 20 meters wide and three meters high. The total length of the Gunkin caves is about one kilometer, but during the flood period, most of them are simply not accessible.
Malaya Laba - river
The peculiarity of this river is that it is always clean and cold water. The riverbed is fed by glaciers, so the water here is always ideal. Along the entire route the Laba is “restive”, right up to the place where it flows into the Great Laba. The river is turbulent and is very popular among rafting enthusiasts. Almost throughout the entire territory of the village the banks are steep and steep. And only outside of it do they become even. During floods the river becomes dangerous. Spills begin and the current is very strong. The river is very popular among fishing tourists. At the same time, fishing here cannot be called calm. You have to be a real professional to catch trout, which is abundant here, or chub.
These places are extremely popular at all times of the year. The water temperature in them reaches 80 – 90 degrees. While in the baths it is 37 - 42. The water here is rich minerals, for example: potassium, fluorine, calcium and others. What has the most positive impact on problems? musculoskeletal system, respiratory tract. Useful water sources and for people who give in severe stress experiencing nervous exhaustion. At the same time, the healing effect lasts for a fairly long period of time. People come here in any weather.
The mountain is strewn with giant trees and boulders. Incredibly a nice place, from the top of which there is a stunning view of the village of Psebay, the Caucasus Range and the Laba River. A visit to Mount Shapka is included in most tourist routes and is the most popular place.
They are located not in Psebay itself, but in the mountains near the village of Nikitino, which is why they are called that. On the way to them, tourists enjoy the view of the cascades. The places here are very beautiful, the route to the Nikitinsky waterfalls themselves is without steep climbs.
Another natural attraction of these places. The road to them is much more difficult than to Nikitinsky, but the view is more breathtaking. Approximate height is about 40 meters. The last few tens of meters just before the waterfall are the most difficult. With steep climbs.
The route is quite difficult. First, you need to drive to the village of Solenoye by car. Then walk a few kilometers. The path runs along the Kyzyl-bek river, through the mountains. But by car you can get to the largest of these waterfalls, almost right next to it. Great amount tourists cannot resist the temptation to plunge into the bowls of lakes at the foot, created by these waterfalls.
The easiest way to get to the village of Psebay is by car. Public transport rarely comes here. Several transplants are required. Reviews from people who have already been here more than once will help you decide how to get to Psebay.
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There is a legend among Far Eastern treasure hunters that ancient treasures are hidden near Mount Shapka.
On the banks of the Zavitaya River, 3-4 kilometers away, there is Mount Shapka. The first settlers gave it this name because it really resembles a headdress. The famous Russian explorer N. M. Przhevalsky began his hiking activities in the area of the Amur Shapka.
But the Chinese suspected that the Russians in Przhevalsky’s expeditions were not just studying the territory, but were looking for something specific and important. In particular, treasures. Scientists of the Chinese imperial court found ancient documents, from which it followed that the capital existed at the confluence of the Zavitaya rivers ancient state. A few centuries later they joined the hordes of Genghis Khan and went with them to Central Asia and Europe, and hid their treasures in a mountain, later called Shapka.
These jewels and their storage were described in detail in ancient Chinese documents. The settlement itself on Shapka and at its foot fell into disrepair due to another plague epidemic. Religious teachers and rulers from nearby villages declared the mountain and its surroundings a cursed place and, for fear of plague, forbade anyone from entering there on pain of death. The lifeless city was destroyed and forgotten.
With the advent of Przhevalsky's expedition, there was a reason to remember the treasures. The note from the learned men of the imperial court said that the treasure on Mount Shapka had not yet been plundered by anyone, and it was recommended to send a detachment of Chinese there. Attached to the note was a plan for the location of the storage facility. There was only a significant snag - Mount Shapka was considered disputed territory and was under the jurisdiction of the Russians. Therefore, the Chinese did not burn out anything.
Now Mount Shapka is located in the border zone, which excludes the possibility of excursions. But the very idea that someone could bury their treasures and then abandon them is questionable. Moreover, since 2009, they have been leading to the Shapka settlement archaeological excavations Amur scientists, and no treasures have yet been found there. In addition to items of interest to specialists, those working on Mount Shapka discovered this year on the banks of the Amur two bottles with love notes on Chinese. In one, a young man confesses his love to a girl, in the other, her answer is that she agrees to be with her lover. Neither the date nor the name of the destination are indicated in the notes. These notes are of no value either for culture or history.
On Far East at the confluence of the Zavitaya River with the Amur there is a mountain, which the local Russian population called the Hat. Maybe it reminded the early settlers of their hats. And according to a humorous legend, it was they who poured it with caps for the construction of fortifications for self-defense.
Of course, all the names of these near and far places come from the more ancient Chinese and Manchu populations. But it just so happens that everyone puts all the toponymy they encounter on their block.
The most famous Russian researcher N.M. Przhevalsky, who began his hiking activities in the Shapka area, in his further travels around Central Asia in the 70-80s of the 19th century he tried to give Russian names to the mountains he discovered and studied: the Outskirts (Maomaoshan), Moscow (Achchikkeltag) ridges, etc. But they did not take root, since local names existed. After the death of the explorer, the Russian Geographical Society assigned his name to the Mysterious Ridge, but on maps and reference books it remained Arkatag (translated from Turkic as “back ridge”). At best, Przhevalsky's name is added to it in parentheses. By the way, the traveler saw in this ridge highest peak and called it not just a hat, but exalted it to the “Monomakh Cap”.
Let's return to the Cap at the Cupid. The Chinese suspected that the Russians in Przhevalsky’s expeditions were not just exploring unexplored territory, but were looking for something specific and important. In particular, treasures... Scientists of the Chinese imperial court found ancient documents, from which it followed that at the confluence of the Zavitaya and Amur rivers there was a capital of the ancient state of the Jur-Chen.
This people, somewhat similar to the Cossacks, inhabited the farthest outskirts of the Middle Empire. Organized by former oppressed fugitives, a powerful state captured for some time even Central China. Under the pressure of Genghis Khan's troops, the Jurchens retreated to their capital, then joined the hordes of the Mongols and left with the invaders to Central Asia and Europe.
But they hid their treasures in a mountain, later called Shapka. These jewels and their storage itself were described in detail in documents. The settlement on the mountain and at its foot fell into disrepair due to another plague epidemic. Religious teachers and rulers from nearby villages declared that mountain and its surroundings a cursed place and, for fear of plague, forbade anyone from entering there on pain of death. The lifeless city was destroyed and forgotten. But there was a reason to remember the treasures.
The note from the learned men of the imperial court said that the treasure on Mount Shapka had not yet been plundered by anyone, and it was recommended to send a detachment of Chinese there to get those Jurchen treasures. Attached to the note was a plan for the location of the storage facility. There was only a significant snag - Mount Shapka was considered a disputed territory and was under the jurisdiction of the Russians. As for Przhevalsky, the sons of the Celestial Empire cared little about the fact that during his four long journeys through Central Asia he covered over 32 thousand km, explored and mapped more than 20 ridges and 7 large lakes, and often climbed “ terrible absolute height,” was on the verge of survival. In Beijing, he was seen primarily as an officer of the General Staff, and his Cossacks were seen as reconnaissance soldiers. And now also the miners of treasures hidden on the Cap...
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