Lemon climbing rose. Climbing rose - planting and care in open ground, tips and recommendations. Climbing rose "Lavinia"


October is one of the autumn months, which is very important for residents of the Moscow region and the rest of Russia, for preparing their cottages for wintering. In order to work fruitfully and profitably at this time, you need to know in advance what to do and make a special list of things that you must do at your favorite summer cottage. Of course, few people want to work with soil in cold and sometimes rainy weather - many prefer the warmth and comfort of home.

But on the other hand, the most hardworking and resilient will be rewarded in the spring, when the leaves begin to emerge and it will be possible to plant vegetables. By the way, some crops can and even should be planted in October! What to do at the dacha in October and what to plant in October we will consider in this material, useful for any summer resident.

What to plant at the dacha in October?

From September 20 and (if the weather is good) until October 20 is the most suitable period for planting seedlings of fruit trees and shrubs. This is an excellent time to replant raspberry and currant bushes (for the purpose of renewal).

Sowing vegetables before winter

October is a great time to plant vegetables before winter. During the winter they will sleep well under the snow cover and will emerge together in the spring.






In addition to garlic, you can plant a bed of early carrots so that you can enjoy them with a crunch in the summer. In a greenhouse or under glass you can plant early radishes, radishes, head lettuce and lettuce. Glass will protect landings from sudden spring frosts and saves necessary moisture in the soil.


You can sow winter onions. To do this, select special short-day varieties that form bulbs during short sunny spring days. Currently, there are such hybrids as Radar F1 and Ibis F1.

What should a gardener do at his dacha in October?

Rosemary outdoors must be covered or brought into a warm room for the winter.


Cover perennials and biennial flowers, if necessary, with lutrasil.


Check dahlia tubers overwintering in the house regularly; Throw away wilted, rotten and diseased plants immediately.






It is worth planning the layout of ridges and flower beds, choosing compatible and suitable flowers.


After the first frost, dahlias must be dug up because their stems and leaves will immediately turn black.
To do this, you need to dig around the bushes in a circle, trying not to damage the tubers. Gently shake it off and clean the tubers from the soil. Then we trim the stems at a height of ten centimeters from the base. We make the cut just above the lignified area.


Dahlia tubers are washed with a stream of water and dried in the sun for several hours or a couple of days indoors.





For winter storage of tubers, a room with good ventilation, an air temperature of +3-8 ° C and a humidity of about 60-70% is required. In apartment conditions, dahlias can be stored on a warm glazed balcony. The nest of root tubers should be placed in a bucket and covered with a mixture of sawdust, sand and peat.

What should a gardener do at his dacha in October?

Removing young growth

We recommend using pruning shears and an ax to remove the wild growth that has formed over the summer near mature fruit trees. If you don’t do this, then in the spring it will quickly perk up and absorb a lot useful substances, which would be required for adult specimens to start a new crop.


Protect tree trunks by whitewashing so that their bark is not damaged by frost cracks in winter.






In October, leaf fall begins and therefore it is necessary to remove fallen leaves in time and burn them so that pests of apple trees and other trees cannot overwinter in them.

What should a gardener do at his dacha in October?

Leftover vegetables

In October, the first frosts begin and therefore those vegetables that you left to ripen in the garden require additional protection. We recommend covering these beds with film or lutrasil to protect the roots in case of sudden frost.

Harvesting vegetables

Cucumbers and tomatoes are finishing bearing fruit. Beets and carrots have grown. It's time to harvest vegetables. But what vegetables should be removed first?


We harvest, first of all, those vegetables that are afraid of frost. These include cucumbers, tomatoes and beets.


Frost-resistant crops such as horseradish, carrots, pumpkin and cabbage are the last to be removed from fields and dachas.





After the onset of frost, horseradish should be dug up. At this time it contains maximum amount nutrients.

Digging the soil

Since the soil was depleted after the next harvest, it should be fed with potassium fertilizers. They need to be added immediately before digging. Loosened soil in the fall will collect much more moisture and help nourish plant seeds in early spring.





Apply fertilizer and loosen the soil. It is better not to break clods of earth to improve air flow.

What should a winegrower do at his dacha in October?

The grapes are harvested, and therefore it is possible to treat the bushes with drugs against pests and diseases without any problems. The bushes must be trimmed, bent to the ground and covered with fresh spruce branches or peat. Grape bush cuttings must be removed from the dacha or burned.

What should a summer resident do in October?

Work in the greenhouse

In October, after harvesting vegetables, in the greenhouse you can dig up the soil and treat the glass and frames of this structure with phytosporin or copper sulfate. After finishing the cleaning, you can light the FAS sulfur bomb and tightly close all the cracks and doors with vents. This procedure will protect against the spread of dangerous fungal diseases, for example, late blight.

Preparing inventory for storage

After the summer season, it is likely that some of the gardening equipment was scattered around the site and broken. Therefore, it is worth conducting an autumn audit of your instrument. Make a list of missing tools so that you can purchase the necessary things over the winter or spring.


The remaining tools should be cleaned of dirt and stored.

Dig up soil for seedlings

IN literally It’s worth digging the soil into buckets. To have something to grow seedlings in. Many even experienced summer residents forget about such a trifle and then rack their brains about where to get soil for seedlings.

Compost heap care

Collect tops and plant stems into a compost heap. Treat them with urea solution. Cover the top with roofing felt or thick film.

With the arrival of autumn, the summer cottage area becomes significantly empty. The garden beds may still display colorful pumpkins and winter cabbage. If you have just recently mastered gardening, do not rush to abandon it in October. During this time, you still have the opportunity to grow delicious, colorful greens. Today we will talk to you about what you can plant in your dacha at the end of September. I would like to immediately note that it is also worth focusing on the growing season of plants and the climatic conditions of the area in which your dacha is located. Our recommendations will be appropriate for residents of the middle and warm zones.

With the arrival of autumn, the summer cottage area becomes significantly empty

Lettuce

Salads are greens that saturate the body with vitamins and minerals. But do not forget that they also have decorative qualities - greenery looks bright and beautiful, so it would be a sin not to add it to an empty summer cottage.


Lettuce

Lettuces can be sown throughout the summer, maintaining certain time intervals. If you were unable to do this during the warm season, hurry up, you can catch up in early autumn. Salads can withstand low temperatures. They grow without problems at +5 °C. Moreover, they are not even afraid of frosts down to -4...-5 °C.

You can plant leafy lettuces, which have a short growing season. They should calmly tolerate cold weather and short daylight hours. Fast-growing greens pull nutrients from the soil. In this regard, the beds will have to be fed with nitrogen-potassium fertilizers before sowing.

One of the most common types of salads is lettuce. No less popular varieties are romaine and iceberg. Lettuce responds well to low temperatures. Greens acquire a rich taste if they grow at temperature conditions 10-17 °C. If it grows in hot conditions, its taste will be bitter and it will begin to actively shoot arrows. As you may have guessed, the ideal period for growing such greens is late summer and early autumn. As for eating it, this is permissible 35-40 days from the moment of planting. For cabbage varieties, the timing is slightly different - 2-2.5 months. If the lettuce has not yet ripened, but frost has set in, do not worry, it will “get there” if you provide it with film cover.

Chinese cabbage

If you are not one of the experienced summer residents, we hasten to inform you that Chinese cabbage and Chinese cabbage are absolutely different cultures. Chinese cabbage, also known as pak choi, does not form a head of cabbage, but a rosette of green leaves on long petioles. Tolerates cold well. It grows without problems at +14…+18 °C. With an increase in these indicators, one can observe its withering.


Chinese cabbage

Chinese cabbage does not need long daylight hours. Planting it in early to mid-summer will cause it to shoot arrows. The ideal time for planting is September and October. Harvesting can be done after 40-60 days. The exact timing depends on what variety you plant.

Arugula

Many people love this greenery. She is especially held in high esteem by those who adhere to proper nutrition and prefers to prepare healthy salads. The plant has a spicy mustard-nutty flavor. Can withstand without problems low temperatures.


Arugula

The optimal indicators for growth are +14...+18 °C, but frosts down to -5...-7 °C are also terrible for it. Arugula prefers short daylight hours, but does not like to be constantly in the shade. If it lacks sun, it may lose its characteristic taste.

The plant needs abundant watering; a dry bed in which it has “settled” will cause its bitter taste. You can harvest fresh herbs within a month from the moment of sowing.

Spinach

This leafy vegetable also likes cool weather and short daylight hours. Grows best at +15...+19 °C. In the summer it is forced to be shaded; in the fall such manipulations are not required. Responds well to abundant watering. Spinach can be picked and served 35-40 days after planting.


Spinach

Watercress

Bedbug sativum, also known as watercress, acquires a special taste if sown in September or early October. The advantage of this herbaceous plant consists of rapid maturation. You can enjoy the greens within 12-17 days from the moment of sowing.


Watercress

Watercress reacts positively to coolness, like its counterparts, so it should be sown in spring or autumn. Now let's talk about plants that are beneficial for a summer cottage. You may have already guessed that we will talk about green manure. You can refresh the soil and supplement it with useful substances in late summer and early autumn.

Salad mustard

Mustard can be white, black, or gray. Today we will look at the last option. Blue mustard is also called Russian, salad or leaf mustard. The plant, just like salads, grows well at low temperatures. Optimal indicators range between +18 °C. Leaf mustard is not afraid of slight frosts (-3 ° C). You can pick the leaves to eat them 14-20 days after sowing. Leaf mustard is an ideal green manure. You need to bury the crop that turns out to be superfluous in the ground to make up for the lack of nutrients.


Salad mustard

If you are not a fan of mustard and do not plan to harvest, you can sow white mustard and bury it in the soil. This way you can improve the quality of the soil and prevent the appearance of pests such as wireworms.

Green pea

A plant from the “Bean” family grows well in the first months of spring, provided that the cottage is located in southern region countries. Sweet fruits can be collected 30-40 days after planting. Peas can withstand low temperatures without problems. Sprouts can appear even at +1...+2 °C and withstand frosts (down to -5 °C). The optimal temperature for proper development plants is +18 °C. Keep in mind that sub-zero temperatures can harm beans while they are in process.


Green pea

If a cold snap is predicted, hurry up and cover it with foil overnight. If in the region where your summer cottage is located, frosts make themselves felt early, peas that will be planted in early autumn may not form pods. Since we are talking about green manure, there will be benefits from this plant in any case. To saturate the earth with valuable substances, you will have to chop its sprouts and dig them into the ground. Identical actions must be carried out with greens after harvesting. All empty beds need to be filled with green manure. It is not at all necessary to plant only mustard and peas. You can read more about green manure crops in one of our articles.

Radish

These juicy root vegetables can delight us all season long. Radishes are one of the first vegetables that we see on sale in the spring and have the opportunity to enjoy them until the fall. Harvesting can be done 2-3 weeks after planting. The vegetable feels good at low temperatures, which are typical for the beginning of autumn. Root vegetables turn out to be more tasty, less watery than in the spring and not as spicy as in the hot season.


Radish

Spices

Parsley, dill, green onions, basil – fresh herbs which is for sale all year round. If you own your own summer cottage, you don’t need to spend money on purchasing herbs; you can grow them yourself. Fast-growing plants that are resistant to cold can be harvested within 20-40 days from sowing. To enhance the emergence of seedlings, take into account the following recommendations.


Spices

Before sowing the seeds, rub them together until micro-scratches form on the planting material. This process is called seed scarification. Then soak them in water for 24 hours. You can also fill them with growth activators and biostimulants. Apply nitrogen-potassium fertilizer to the soil (before sowing).

If you do not ignore these rules, after 8-10 days you will be able to observe the emergence of seedlings and soon enjoy fresh herbs. If cold weather sets in, young shoots will hatch 10 days later.

All the plants that we have looked at can give a good harvest this year. From mid-September you can start sowing crops that will ripen in early spring. We are talking about onions, garlic, carrots, spinach, etc.

Important! Alternate the beds so that the soil does not become depleted and pathogenic microorganisms do not develop in it.

October

The time has come to clean the site, winter fertilizing and planting. Remember that many fruit trees and shrubs are recommended to be planted in autumn.

October 1 to October 10, October 28 to October 31 - waxing moon. Time for planting, transplanting and dividing perennials. Pre-winter sowing of perennials, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, and planting seedlings of trees and shrubs are recommended. Harvest leafy vegetables and fruits and berries. A good time for pickling and canning, making wine, and cutting flowers.

from October 11 to October 13 - full moon, exact time—October 12, 05:06. During this period, it is better to limit yourself to weeding, loosening and mulching the soil.

from October 14 to 24 - waning moon. Time for winter sowing of root crops and bulbous crops. It is possible to carry out moisture-recharging irrigation, storing crops, digging up perennial tubers, digging and cleaning the site. Successful destruction of pests and cuttings. Perform sanitary pruning, harvest roots and bulbs, and prepare firewood.

from October 25 to October 27 - new moon, exact time - October 26, 22:56. On the day of the new moon, it is better not to carry out any work, but on the days before and after, start eliminating weeds and pests.

1. CLEANING THE SITE IN OCTOBER

Place the tops and fallen leaves in the compost, treating them with a urea solution. For perennials, remove dying aerial parts. Empty and invert water containers.

2. DIGGING THE GARDEN

Apply fertilizer and loosen the soil. This can be non-moldboard loosening with a flat cutter or digging with formation turnover. It is better not to break clods of earth to improve air flow.

3. PODZIMNY NOW

At the end of the month, sow cold- and frost-resistant crops - carrots, parsley, dill, celery. Their seeds should swell but not germinate. It is recommended to do this in several stages to determine what time period is appropriate for your area.

4. CLEANING AND CARE OF THE GARDEN IN OCTOBER

Check that the berry bushes are well mulched. Trim dry branches on trees, clear trunks and skeletal branches of dead bark, and remove mummified fruits.

5. PROTECTION OF FRUIT TREES

Clear the area of ​​debris. Burn all plant debris and weeds. The trunks of young trees are protected by tying them with roofing felt or roofing felt. In this case, the lower part of the material should be buried 5-10 cm into the ground, and then trampled well around it. Place fishing belts on the trunks of fruit trees.

6. CLEANING AND DIGGING OUT HORSERADISH

After the onset of frost, dig up the horseradish. It is at this time that the plant accumulates greatest number nutrients. Select the roots clean so that the plant does not grow throughout the entire area.

7. CLEANING THE GREENHOUSE

Remove the film from the greenhouse. Delay may result in frame deflection during sudden snowfall. Please note that in early or mid-October you need to end the greenhouse season by removing all plant debris. The greenhouse must be treated with a disinfectant, such as soda ash or chlorine water, to prevent diseases.

To sow winter onions, choose short-day varieties that form bulbs during the short (albeit rapidly increasing) spring day. Until recently, only one hybrid was popular - “Wolf Fl”, but now others have already appeared - “Radar F1”, “Ibis f1”.

9. DIGGING DAHLIA IN OCTOBER

  1. After the first frost, dahlias must be dug up, as their leaves and stems immediately turn black.
  2. Dig around the bush in a circle, being careful not to damage the tubers. Gently shake it off and clean the tubers from the soil. Now cut the stems to a height of 10-15 cm from the base. The cut is made above the lignified area.
  3. Dahlia tubers are washed with a stream; water and dry in the sun for 2-3 hours or two days indoors.
  4. For winter storage of tubers, use a frost-free room with good ventilation, air temperature +3-8 °C and humidity 60-70%. In an apartment, dahlias can be stored on a glassed-in balcony. The nest of root tubers should be placed in a container and covered with sawdust, sand or peat.

Read more about heroines

10. HARVESTING CABBAGE IN OCTOBER

At the beginning of the month, dig cauliflower, her inflorescence is about to burst, and then bury it in the basement or greenhouse. Remove late cabbage. If frozen water and ice are found at the tops of the leaves, remove the covering leaves, dry the heads of cabbage and store them. When laying, select the heads according to their early maturity. Cover the rot spots with a mixture of sand, slaked lime and chalk.

11. PREVENTION OF GARDEN DISEASES

After the first frost, spray the crowns and trunks of apple and pear trees with a 5 percent urea solution (at the rate of 500 g per 10 liters of water). At the end of the month, spray stone fruit trees with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture (300 g of Bordeaux mixture per 10 liters of water) against coccomycosis and moniliosis in cherries and sweet cherries and cluster-sporiosis and moniliosis in peach and plum.

12. PLANTING TREES IN OCTOBER

To maintain the planting scheme in the garden, in place dead tree plant a new seedling. It is better to alternate crops - instead of pome crops (apple trees, pears, quince, rowan), plant stone fruit crops (cherries, cherries, plums, cherry plums, apricots, peach) or berry trees, and vice versa. To avoid soil fatigue, the planting hole is dug no closer than 1.5 m from the trunk of the dead tree. They are usually arranged in rows.

13. PLANTING BULBS IN OCTOBER

Bulbs can be grown in any soil, but light, nutritious loams with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction are most preferred. IN heavy soils add up to 30 kg of sand and 10-15 kilograms of peat, and in acidic ones - 150-200 g of chalk per 1 m2. 20-30 days before planting, the site must be dug to a depth of 35-40 cm and 25-30 kg added per 1 m2 well rotted manure, 200 g of ash and 200 g of chicken droppings. These plants are planted at the beginning of the month in sunny or semi-shaded areas where there is no stagnant water. General rule planting bulbs: pour a few millimeters of sand into the planting hole, the depth of which is equal to the height of 3 bulbs. The bulbs are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. They are installed vertically in the hole, carefully pressed into the sand and covered with soil on top.

Autumn garden cleaning and gardening work

Where to start? general cleaning? Of course, from inspecting the territory, preparing equipment and tools, as well as drawing up an action plan. The worst thing to happen to the lawn in winter is the lawn, so it’s best to start preparing for the cold from this area. Now is the time the right time for the last cutting: before the onset of frost, the grass will have time to grow to a sufficient height.

Therefore, as soon as October brings a day or two of dry weather, mow the lawn, but not too short, leaving the turf 5-8 cm high. Taller grass may freeze and dry out over the winter. If the lawn is “bald” in some places, then you can sprinkle seeds on the “bald patches” (the ants will not take them away, and in the spring they will have time to germinate before the first mowing). And be sure to feed your lawn with potassium fertilizers; they will help you survive even severe frosts.

Fallen leaves, grass felt and debris have no place on the lawn, so first make it beautiful, and then work with the aerator, allowing air and moisture access to the roots. If autumn turns out to be excessively rainy, put the aerator aside and take a pitchfork, pierce the turf to the maximum possible depth to drain water into the lower layers of the soil. Otherwise, as soon as frost hits, the wet lawn will be covered with an ice crust, and by spring - unsightly bald spots. Tip: at the end of autumn, mulch the lawn with a mixture of peat and sand (layer 2-3 cm), pouring it under the roots and not on the blades of grass.

It’s not just the lawn that will have to be mowed in the fall: trees and shrubs also need special sanitary pruning. This necessary procedure should be carried out after the beginning of leaf fall, but before the onset of stable frosts. Important: pruning should not be carried out if the air temperature has dropped to -8 ° C: in such conditions, the wood becomes brittle and when pruning, longitudinal cracks may appear in it, which will become wider and deeper over the winter and ultimately can lead to the death of the tree. First of all, remove diseased, dry, broken branches, as well as “offender” branches: those that grow deep into the crown and thicken it or extend far beyond its limits. In shrubs, it is necessary to remove excess root shoots and shoots, as well as dried branches. Remember: the cuts must be smooth, even, without burrs of the bark. Wounds should not be left untreated - they attract pests and serve as the basis for the formation of cavities and cracks, so immediately after pruning, cover them with garden varnish or a special paste. And before applying the putty, clean the cut from sawdust, remove chips and bark burrs and sprinkle with a 2% solution of copper sulfate. After pruning, carefully free the trunks and branches from mosses and lichens and old dead bark, because it is under their shelter that the enemies of your garden - weevils, moths and scale insects - prefer to overwinter. And be sure to remove wintering butterfly nests and dried fruits from the trees! Having collected all this plant debris, be sure to set it on fire so that the pests do not have a single chance of survival.

You shouldn’t put off whitewashing trees until after the weather: generously apply lime to the trunks and bases of skeletal branches, this “war paint” will help protect the bark from winter temperature changes and sunburn. For young trees, use freshly slaked lime (2-3 kg per 10 liters of water), adding clay to it (1 kg per specified rate) for better adhesion.

The next object of your concern is. At this time of year, pond and coastal plants gradually begin to die off; in no case do not let this process take its course and remove the plants as they wither so that they do not fall into the pond and do not have time to decompose, poisoning the water.

At the same time, remove leaves from the surrounding trees and other plant debris from the surface. The heat-loving inhabitants of the pond must be transported to “winter apartments” even before frost - these plants must be kept indoors at a temperature of 10-13 "C. Important: if fish also live in the pond, pamper them with food in the fall high content squirrel, and put several scraps of plastic pipes at the bottom, they will play the role of a winter house. Important: you can leave fish for the winter in a pond only if its depth is more than 80 cm.

Having finished preparing the most significant objects of your summer cottage for winter, turn your attention to the land, which now especially needs your help. Important procedures are also provided for her in the autumn.

Moisture-recharging irrigation stimulates root growth, prevents shoots from drying out and roots from dying in dry, frozen soil.

It should be carried out towards the end of October, before stable frosts on the soil. The main difficulty here is to correctly determine the amount of water required for such irrigation. The fact is that overmoistening the soil is no less dangerous than underwatering, because in excessively wet soil the roots suffocate from lack of air, their growth and development are inhibited and they begin to die. When watering young trees, water is distributed evenly around the circumference of the trunk circle, and for fruit-bearing trees - along the periphery of the crown. Any plantings should be watered in small portions, 10-20 liters each, with a break of 1-2 hours, so that the water is absorbed into the soil and does not flow away in an unknown direction.

Important: the irrigation rate is at least 50 liters of water per 1 m2 of tree trunk circle. Soil moisture is considered sufficient if within half an hour after watering it upper layer(no more than 1-2 cm deep) the consistency will resemble thick sour cream: it gets your hand dirty, but does not flow. And try not to forget about the “rule of three”:

  • You cannot take water for irrigation from a well or well; it must warm up to the air temperature, and ideally exceed it by 2-3 °C.
  • Do not wash away the soil with a strong stream from a watering can or hose; it can injure thin roots. Keep the spout of the watering can low above the ground, and when watering with a hose, use a divider.
  • Do not wet the tree trunk, as this can lead to cracking of the bark.

Digging the earth is another mandatory autumn procedure.

Although in fairness it should be noted that in Lately its feasibility is increasingly being questioned. Proponents of organic farming argue that by digging up the soil, we create ideal conditions for the death of beneficial soil microorganisms and for the growth of weed seeds, and by trying to give the roots air, we sometimes get rid of the roots themselves.

In fact, the need for digging is determined by the type of soil. For heavy clayey and uncultivated soils, autumn digging is mandatory; for light and loose soils, it should be replaced by deep loosening. In the garden, soil cultivation begins immediately after harvesting, removing weeds and applying the necessary fertilizers. If the weather is dry, you can burn dried vegetable tops and weeds, and mix the ash with fertilizer and add it to the soil. Important: Special attention Make sure that the soil remains in large clods in winter; they retain moisture better and retain snow, and by spring, under the influence of wind, rain, and frost, they will disintegrate into small lumps.

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  • When the summer season comes to an end, it's time to take care of planting for next year. Pre-winter sowing and planting are becoming increasingly popular not only among residents of the southern regions, but also the northern ones. In warm temperate climates last works with soil are carried out in October, usually 3–3.5 weeks before the onset of frost. What should residents of central Russia plant in October? The choice of crops is quite extensive: vegetables, perennial and annual flowers, some types of fruit trees and shrubs.

    What vegetables can be planted in October?

    For pre-winter sowing, frost-resistant crops are suitable, which are planted in the second half of October. Before frost sets in, the seeds should swell but not germinate. Optimal time for planting begins from the moment when the air temperature outside is +2–3.5 °C and does not exceed +5 °C. Beginning gardeners are recommended to sow in parts with a time interval of several days. This is the only way to determine the sowing time for a specific type of terrain. However, it is important to take into account not only the climatic features of the region, but also the weather conditions in the current year.

    What vegetables to plant in October? Below is a list of plants recommended for pre-winter sowing.

    • Carrot. The most popular are high-yielding varieties with early and medium ripening: “Nantskaya 4”, “Vitaminnaya 6”, “NIIOKH 336”, “Shantane-2461”, “Incomparable”, “Moscow Winter A-545”. Planting takes place in late October.
    • Beet. It is recommended to choose mid-season varieties that are winter-hardy and resistant to the formation of flower stalks. For example, “Cold-resistant 19”, “Polar flat K-249”, “Podzimnyaya A-474”, “Egyptian flat”. Sowing also takes place at the end of October.
    • Radish. The most popular variety is “Zarya”, which ripens well even in low light conditions, and “Zhara”, which allows you to get a harvest within 3 weeks after the seedlings appear.
    • Celery. This is a cold-resistant plant, so the choice of variety does not affect germination.
    • Winter garlic. Shooting varieties: “Gribovsky Jubilee”, “Otradnensky”, “Gribovsky 80” and others. Non-shooting varieties: “Lekar”, “Novosibirsky”, “Danilovsky local”.
    • Onion sets. To get green feathers in spring. Varieties: “Arzamassky”, “Bessonovsky”, “Danilovsky” and others.
    • Greenery. What to plant in October from herbs? Dill, parsley, cilantro, sorrel, rhubarb.

    When planting before winter, it is important to consider several points. The amount of planting material should be taken 1.5–2 times more in case some of the seeds do not sprout. After sowing, the bed should be mulched with straw, peat or humus; if the winter is expected to be frosty, then the plantings are additionally covered with spruce branches.

    The choice of garden flowers that can be planted in the fall is huge. By planting annual plants, you can get them to bloom a couple of weeks earlier in the spring. In addition, planting in the fall will harden the flowers and make them more resistant to diseases and pests. Just like with vegetable seeds, when planting flowers it is important not to rush so that the sprouts do not sprout in the current season. The furrows are prepared in advance, back in September, since the soil should be frozen at the time of sowing. At the end of October, the following annual plants are sown:

    • calendula,

    • aster,
    • Chinese carnation,
    • viola (pansy) annual,
    • scabious,
    • godetia,
    • Snapdragon,
    • Clarkia,
    • annual cornflower,
    • fragrant mignonette.

    What to plant perennial flowers in October? Sowing seeds of perennials is carried out in exactly the same way, but unlike annual plants, their germination rate is much higher. Recommended for planting in October the following types:

    • arabis alpine,
    • oriental poppy,
    • lupine,
    • primrose,
    • delphinium,
    • aconite,

    • bell,
    • gaillardia.

    Perennial flowers with rhizomes are most often divided and replanted in the fall, in the second half of September. However, if weather conditions permit, then in early October you can root:

    • peonies,
    • phlox,
    • irises.

    Bulbous plants deserve special attention; it is known that they are planted mainly in autumn. At the same time, the result that the gardener receives in the spring depends on how correctly the plants were planted. Bulbous plants prefer light, nutritious soil; soils that are too dense and heavy are diluted with river sand and peat. Site preparation is carried out 3 weeks before the planned planting date. When preparing holes, be sure to pour a layer of calcined river sand onto the bottom (3–5 cm is enough). Such a “pillow” will protect the bottom of the onion from possible infections and fungal diseases. Bulbs must be rooted 2 weeks before the onset of frost. After planting, the bed must be covered with mulch: straw, peat, spruce branches.

    What to plant in October from bulbous plants? Most often, the following flowers are popular for decorating flower beds on the site:

    • tulips,
    • daffodils,
    • crocuses,
    • hyacinths,
    • lilies,
    • muscari,
    • Scylla,

    • alliums,
    • Chionodoxa,
    • Ranunculus.

    What trees and shrubs are planted in October?

    Most often, seedlings for planting in the fall are purchased from a nursery or at the market. However, some gardeners successfully grow seedlings from seed. The following types of frost-resistant crops are suitable for growing from seed:

    • Apple tree,
    • wild pear,
    • rose hip,

    • sea ​​​​buckthorn,
    • nut,
    • Linden,

    After sowing, the surface of the earth is covered with moss, peat, sawdust or shavings.

    When planting fruit and berry crops, it is important to observe crop rotation in the garden. For example, after pome crops (apple tree, quince), it is necessary to plant stone fruit species (cherry, plum), berries and vice versa.

    What to plant in October from fruit and berry crops? Cold-resistant species are suitable for planting; the variety should be selected depending on the climatic characteristics of the region. The gardener can recommend seedlings of the following plants:

    • currant,
    • gooseberry,
    • honeysuckle,
    • barberry,
    • irga.

    Don't forget about ornamental shrubs that will help decorate the garden. In addition, in the fall their cost is noticeably lower and the gardener will be able to improve the area without spending large amount money. Frost-resistant species that are planted in October include:

    • heather,

    • bloodroot,
    • spirea,
    • fir,
    • juniper,
    • blue spruce,
    • mountain pine.

    Other works in October

    Knowing what to plant in October, the gardener can begin not only planting, but also preparing the area for winter. In mid-autumn, at the end of leaf fall, the following work is carried out:

    • sanitary pruning of bushes and trees;
    • removal of the dried aerial parts of perennial flowers (peonies, phlox);
    • collecting fallen leaves in a compost heap, removing garbage from the site;
    • preventive treatment of shrubs and trees with fungicides to prevent possible diseases;
    • hilling and covering plants that will spend the winter on the site;
    • moisture-charging watering of shrubs and trees;
    • digging up the site and applying potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

    Video about plants that can be planted in October

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