Crampons for walking on ice. Virtual school of mountain tourism and mountaineering. Types of front teeth in different cat models

Basic rules for moving on ice

  • 1. When climbing a mountain where there are snowy slopes and glaciers, you must be prepared to encounter icy slopes. Therefore, the equipment should include: an ice axe, crampons and ice pitons
  • 2. On ice routes the main load falls on the ankle joints. If they are not trained and strengthened for walking on crampons, it is better to avoid climbing
  • 3. When going out for ascents in a vibram, you must take crampons with you
  • 4. Since the structure, relief and steepness of the ice slope are not the same, before stepping on it, you must carefully inspect the slope, determine the route and method of movement (only on crampons or cutting down steps, etc.), the place and methods of belaying
  • 5. The teeth of crampons should always be sharp, especially when moving on very hard or smeared ice, therefore, when going out to climb, you need to sharpen their teeth, and while climbing, do not walk on crampons on rocks
  • 6. Place the leg with the crampon on the slope with all the teeth at the same time and with one blow (repeated blows destroy the ice, worsening the grip), do not take large steps (so as not to get caught on the other leg), do not tip the crampon, keep your body vertical, do not press against the slope
  • 7. Always have at least two points of support, moving in three steps: ice ax - leg - leg. When moving, you should always rest your ice ax on the slope
  • 8. When walking on crampons, use uneven surfaces on the slope: edges of cracks, depressions, bumps, always try to lighten the load on the ankle joints
  • 9. Never walk with all your might, change the person in front more often, especially when cutting down steps
  • 10. The direction of movement from landmark to landmark should be chosen taking into account the terrain, greater reliability and economy of effort; on the way up, go diagonally at an angle of 45-60°, on the way down - straight down along the water drainage line. The direction of ascent “head-on” along the slope is selected only when moving on the front teeth of the crampons
  • 11. If possible, avoid jumping on crampons.
  • 12. The main way to move along an ice slope is walking on crampons, so cutting down steps should be done in rare cases, as it requires a lot of effort and time
  • 13. The main condition for cutting down steps is blows with an ice ax of the required force. The power of the blow does not depend on the strength of the hands, but on the inertia given to the ice ax

Techniques for moving on crampons

On a gentle ice slope with a steepness of up to 20-25°, they walk in boots without crampons. Shoes with triconi soles hold up better on slopes than vibram-type soles. Often in the lower part of the glacier the ice is covered with small rubble frozen into it. This facilitates movement due to the high adhesion of the sole to the pebbles.

If the crushed stone is not frozen, then you must walk very carefully, since the crushed stone slides on the ice and this can lead to a fall. On a separate stone the size of a fist, the foot must be placed on the stone and the slope at the same time so that the center of gravity is shifted towards the slope. On smooth ice need to wear crampons. Use the ice ax as additional support, resting your hand on it.

They climb a non-steep icy slope (25-30°) head-on with crampons. At the same time, the feet are placed on the ice with a light blow simultaneously on all ten teeth in the “herringbone” position. The steeper the slope, the more you need to turn your toes to the sides. Take a smaller step than usual, and place your feet a little wider so as not to get caught on the fastening of another crampon or trousers.

On a moderately steep slope (30-40°), you need to climb obliquely up along a zigzag line, turning half a turn towards the slope. When there is a slope on the right, you need to, standing on your right leg, lean on the slope with the pin of the ice ax and move left leg above the right toe and place it in front and above the right leg (Fig. 85). You need to move your foot by lifting it higher so as not to catch the teeth of the crampon on your right shoe. The good thing about a zigzag lift is that after a turn, the load on the ankle joint and leg muscles changes.

Turn. Standing on your right foot, rest the pin of the ice ax against the slope (the head of the ice ax is in your right hand, and the shaft in your left hand), move your left foot, but not forward, but back to the left, turning your toe in the opposite direction. Then, standing on your left leg, move your right leg up to the left and, already standing on both legs, change the position of the ice ax, crossing your hands so that the right one holds the shaft and the left one holds the head.

Climbing a steep slope (40-60°) is carried out “head-on” on the four front teeth of uneven-toothed crampons. The beak of the ice ax is driven in front of you with a strong blow. Knees should be bent, heels down, you can’t pull yourself up on the beak of an ice ax, you have to squeeze out on your feet

Climbing a steep slope (50-60°) using regular crampons (which have identical teeth) over short sections can be done with your back to the slope. Bend your knees, take small steps, use the tip of the ice ax to rest on the ice from the back side

Climbing up an ice wall (up to 80°) can be carried out on twelve-toothed crampons, in which ten teeth are arranged as on ten-toothed ones, and the two front ones are directed forward at right angles to the rest. The lift is carried out only on the two front teeth, which stick into the ice with a strong kick of the foot during small steps. Hold the ice ax by the head with your right hand, and the ice hook with your left hand and thrust them alternately into the ice

Climbing up an ice chimney or a narrow crack is done in the same way as climbing up a rock chimney, with the only difference being that in an ice chimney the climb is made easier by using crampons and an ice ax

It is not possible to climb the ice vertical (up to 90°) using crampons. The ascent is carried out on ladders using ice anchors or ice drilling (corkscrew) hooks, as well as on rocks. To climb steep ice areas you need to have special equipment with you.

When climbing a sharp ice ridge of medium steepness, your feet should be placed on both sides, with your toes turned down. Take small steps, resting the point of the ice ax on the ridge. If the comb is not very pointed, but has a width of 10-15 cm, then you should place one foot on the ridge and the other on the slope

Traversing an ice slope of medium steepness (up to 50°) should be done while standing in a position facing in the direction of movement (sideways to the slope), placing the foot in a “half-herringbone” pattern: the closest one to the slope with the toe forward, and the other toe turned down, holding the ice ax at the ready.

Traversing a steep slope (up to 60°) for a short distance should be done while standing with your back to the slope, with the toes of both feet turned down. Plunging the point of the ice ax into the slope behind you, rearrange your legs with an extended step, moving in three beats

Descent down an ice slope with a steepness of up to 55° is carried out while standing with your back to the slope. Your feet are placed on the slope with your toes down, and the tip of the ice ax is driven into the ice behind you. The steeper the slope, the more you need to bend your knees and take a shorter step.

To go down a very steep slope (up to 65°) you should use uneven-toothed crampons, in the same position as when going up (turning to face the slope).

Moving around cutting down steps

If, when moving on crampons on an ice slope, a climber begins to feel insecure, then steps must be cut down. This condition can be caused by the quality of the ice, the steepness of the slope, the nature of the ice relief, poor training of the climber and other reasons. However, we must remember that moving along an ice slope while cutting down steps requires skill, endurance, hand strength and time. Cutting out several steps, especially in softened ice, will not be difficult, but if you have to knock out dozens, or even hundreds of them, and even in hard ice, then it is better to change the route, go to rocks or snow.

Holding an ice ax. When cutting steps in an open stance, the ice ax must be held by the shaft with both hands, and the hand closest to the slope should be located closer to the pin. With a correctly fitted lanyard, the mass of the ice ax is held not by the fingers tightly squeezing the shaft, but by the lanyard grasping wrist joint(which significantly relieves your fingers)

Cutting out a step begins with cutting the step platform with strong horizontal blows with the beak of an ice ax. Then, with strong vertical blows, you need to cut down the ice above the undercut, after which you need to use an ice pick to clear the step and give it the correct shape. In sintered ice, strike with light sliding movements along the surface of the slope, gradually deepening the step.

Shape and size of steps. The length and width of the step must correspond largest size shoes among athletes in the group. The distance between the steps should correspond to the step of the shortest climber in the group. It must be borne in mind that the vertical and horizontal distance between the steps is not the same. It is not necessary to finish the step to a shine. If you plan to go down the same steps, then the distance between them must be reduced a little and make sure that the wall of the step is vertical or even cut down more, but does not hang over its platform. The steeper the slope, the deeper the step should be. A blow with an ice ax is made not due to the strength of the hands, but due to the inertia and mass of the ice ax. Cutting out steps for climbing a slope up to 50° (Fig. 96) is carried out in an oblique upward direction at an angle of 45-50°. You need to stand in an open stance - on a slope to the left, your left leg is in front and higher than your right. Each cycle consists of cutting out two steps and moving along them. First, the lower step (the one closest) is cut down, and then the upper one, after which the lower one is cleared of ice fragments. When resting the pin of an ice ax on the slope, you first need to move right leg on the lower step, and then, moving your body weight onto it, move your left leg to the upper step.

Turn on the steps. At the corner of the zigzag, cut out two steps - the lower one is rotary - a one-and-a-half-size pelvis for two legs, and the upper one is regular. With an ice ax resting on the slope, place the front part of the crampon (six teeth) “into the pelvis” first with the right leg, then put the left one on it, then move the right leg to the top step and step with the left foot in the “pelvis”, turning it in the new direction of movement . After this, grab the ice ax with your hands. Cutting out steps during traverse is done in an open stand. The steps are cut in two rows in a checkerboard pattern. The top row of steps (for the left leg) is located 10-15 cm above the bottom row (for the right leg). Two steps are cut down, as when climbing.

Cutting out steps when climbing in a closed rack on a slope steeper than 50°. A closed stand is different from open topics, that when there is a slope on the left, the right leg is in front, and the left is behind (the climber stands facing the slope). In each position, two one-and-a-half or one double steps are cut down. The steps are cut out using one right hand, and with the left they hold onto a “pocket” carved into the slope at shoulder level. To strike, the ice ax is raised in a circular swing: down - back - up - strike. The length of a one and a half step is the length of 4 - the width of the cat; Double step length is 4-cat length. They walk up the steps at an extra step. According to one-and-a-half - the right leg is placed at the far end of the bottom step, the left leg is placed on the same step behind the right leg, but only with the front part of the crampon, standing on which, the right leg is moved to the top step, then the left leg is turned on the bottom step on all 10 teeth cats. On double steps - move the right foot to the far end of the new step, put the left foot behind it and stand with both feet on the same step. When walking up the steps, for greater stability, you need to thrust the beak of the ice ax into the slope with your right hand, and hold on to the “pocket” in the ice with your left hand. Changing direction or turning on a steep slope is done using a pelvis with a hook belay.

Moving along steep ice slopes (60-70°) in a closed stance is a very labor-intensive and tedious procedure, since cutting steps is done with one hand, so this method should be used in exceptional cases and to cover a short distance.

Cutting steps on a sharp ridge. One row of steps is placed on the ridge itself, cutting off its tip, and the second - on a gentler slope. When moving along a sharp, narrow ridge, you need to cut off the edge entirely with light blows of an ice ax, so as not to lose your balance in case of an inaccurate blow. When stepping on the ridge, you should rest your ice ax in front of you. IN as a last resort are moving on horseback.

Cutting steps for descent (up to 50°) is done straight down with one hand, and with the other hand they hold onto the previously cut step. From each position, one double step is cut into which you can become both cats - one in front of the other. To descend, you need to rest your ice ax against the slope, lower your left foot and place it in front of your right, then lower your right foot onto the newly cut down step and cut down the next one. When descending long distances, it is easier to use a rope.

Self-arrest on an icy slope. If you fall, you must immediately, before the sliding speed has developed, take measures to arrest you: 1 - without letting go of the ice ax from both hands, turn onto your stomach; 2 - raise your toes so as not to catch the crampons on the slope (otherwise you will turn upside down); 3 - with your hand bent at the elbow, thrust the beak of the ice ax into the slope, lean on it with the entire weight of your body and slow down at all costs. The main thing is not to waste time and not develop gliding speed. Even if it is not possible to stop completely, then reducing the speed will make it easier for a comrade to catch the person who has fallen off with a rope.

Uniform: storm suit, sweater, warm trousers, mittens, warm mittens, headdress, goggles, high-altitude boots, safety helmet (helmet).

Personal equipment - ISS, 2 carbines, cord (5 m), ice ax, crampons.

Group equipment - main rope (4 x 30 m), auxiliary rope (1 x 30 m), 3-4 ice hooks, 3-4 carabiners, 3-4 hammers, spare goggles, backpack for two, first aid kit

Introductory conversation: “The origin of glaciers. Glacial landforms. Rules of movement and insurance. Security measures"

It is accompanied by demonstrations of technical techniques by demonstrators. Pay attention to the dress code of the assistants. Explain the rules of movement and insurance. Note the difference between the methods and features of movement on the ice surface from all others. Features of walking in crampons. Every instructor needs to remember that success in teaching techniques for moving and belaying on ice largely depends on the preparation of equipment, and first of all, the ice ax and crampons - they must be sharp and well fitted to the boots.

Moving on ice in mountain boots without crampons. First of all, the instructor must remember that he is conducting this part of the lesson with people who have never stood on an ice surface, and especially in Vibram-type boots. Explain the limit of the steepness of the slope on which you can move without crampons, the difference in the condition of the ice in the morning and during the day, sintered and porous, etc. For any movement (ascent, traverse, descent), tight placement of the sole of the boots on the ice surface is required. No sliding movements, do not place boots on the welt or heel. The ice ax is used as an additional support point.

It is necessary to achieve natural movements before moving on to mastering next appointment. With this approach, learning will become enjoyable and safe. This is especially true since ice technique classes, due to their specific nature, are considered the most monotonous and tedious.

Self-arrest in case of breakdowns on ice when moving without crampons. It is carried out on a safe slope with a good rollout. Even a well-trained athlete, with the help of a well-honed tool, can perform self-arrest on a slope with a steepness of no higher than 30°, and even then with a short sliding path. It should be noted that learning the technique begins so that young climbers know the difficulty of the technique, can navigate and, if necessary, apply their knowledge, at least in order to help their climbing partner by braking in preventing their further fall.

Pay attention to the dress code of the participants. The jacket must be tucked into trousers, the bottom of the trousers must be carefully tucked into boots or gaiters, gloves must be on the hands, and glasses must be removed. To prevent bruises, wear warm pants under storm pants. Practice the position of the ice ax during a fall and self-arrest. When sliding down a slope, do not use your feet to brake. This part of the training has a lot in common with self-arrest in the snow.

Putting on cats. This part of the training should be preceded by careful preparation of equipment. The boots should be quite rigid, especially the soles, and have special slots on the toe and heel for installing crampons. Before putting on crampons, they must be tried on and adjusted. Not every latch fits well and does not always fit on the heel of the shoe. For boots with a narrow toe, crampons with a front strap fastening (or even with straps) are better suited. Side teeth crampons should be exactly along the edge of the boot sole. The front teeth of the cats should protrude 35-40 mm from the welt. If the cats are much longer, they will start to get sick within an hour at most. calf muscles. Crampons can be considered correctly fitted if the crampon does not fall from a raised boot, even without being strapped down. When putting on crampons, the straps or tape should fit snugly, but not tightly, around the boot. Otherwise, blood circulation is impaired, which can lead to frostbite of the fingers during prolonged work in crampons, even in good weather conditions. But don’t let the crampons dangle from the shoe either. Buckles and belt assembly should only be with outside shoe.

Movement in crampons on ice. Before the start of the practical part, the student must already know that every step they take on the ice with crampons must be careful, they must raise and lower their foot without catching the crampon on the ice, without dragging their feet, and place their foot firmly on all the teeth of the crampons at once. When the teeth of the crampons are driven into the ice, do not allow the foot to turn: this is very painful and dangerous - it can lead to a fall. Feet should be placed much wider than during normal walking (up to 30-40 cm), this will prevent cats from clinging to shoes and trousers and will reduce the likelihood of falling and injury.

Walking should be taught on flat ice. To quickly understand the essence of the rhythm of movements and maintaining balance, you need to make small turns of the body at each step towards the planted foot - you will get walking with a slight sway. It’s even better if this exercise is practiced in advance without crampons and to a certain rhythm.

When practicing techniques for moving on ice, do not allow scraping movements with the teeth of the crampons, do not place the crampons on the welt teeth, keep the ice ax at the ready, when moving on a flat ice surface, use it as an additional point of support.

Fig.31. Features of placing the legs in crampons when walking on an ice surface: A - position of the body depending on the steepness of the slope; B - correct position(the distance between the feet is the width of the shoe); B, GG - turn of the legs depending on the steepness of the slope; D - body position,

legs and placement of crampons during traverse; E - when traversing, crampons cannot be placed on the internal teeth; F - when moving, do not allow your legs to cross

Slope traversing. Usually, they try not to carry out such a movement technique because of the great uncertainty of the position on the slope, because of the inconvenience of an extended step, and the constant desire to overlap the legs. In this form

movement mainly uses an additional step and the active use of an ice ax for self-insurance and maintaining balance.

Jumping over glacial cracks. Clean the jogging platform from loose ice or snow so that the cat does not slow down when jumping. Arrange insurance. Before starting the jump, explain the need for a smooth landing on both feet and the position of the ice ax at the ready. If possible, jump from high to the lower edge of the crack. The position of the ice ax during preparation and execution of the jump is in front of you, ready for self-belay. In case of loss of balance after “landing” on the other edge of the crack, fall only head first and actively self-restraint with an ice ax. By pulling your legs under you and firmly placing the soles of your boots (crampons) on the snow (firn), you can stand up. The first one to jump over the crack must process its edge so that there is no snow cushion, cornice, etc. left.

Self-arrest in case of breakdowns on ice when moving on crampons. It is carried out on a short slope with a steepness of up to 45° with a good rollout at the bottom. When sliding, your legs should be raised and your knees bent. Do not slow down with crampons under any circumstances: this is dangerous - a disorderly fall and somersault will begin, and as a result, injuries are inevitable.

Explain the actions of an ice ax. After you stop sliding, you need to firmly plant your feet and then perform all other actions. When practicing this technique, take off your glasses.

Moving along ice slopes on the front teeth of crampons. It is carried out on a steep slope (wall) 3 - 5 m high. Explain the characteristic features of this method of movement. Note that it is used on slopes steeper than 45°. The correct positioning of the feet is on the front 4 teeth of cats. Avoid scraping movements and repeated attempts to “drive” the front teeth into the same point. The ice ax is in the self-belaying position - with the beak facing the slope. The position of the body is vertical. After placing the crampons, the heels of the boots are slightly lowered down (no more than 5°). Explain that this achieves a kind of compaction of the front 4 teeth in the ice and relaxes the calf muscles. Please note that during traverses the crampons may catch on boots or trousers, so only an additional step is used and overlapping legs are not allowed.

Cutting steps in an open rack (ascent, descent and rotary stage). It is carried out on an ice slope up to 5 m high, with a steepness of up to 45°. During the demonstration of the technique, explain the rules for choosing the direction of the steps (45 - 55° to the line of falling water), their size (depth and width according to the largest shoe in the group), the distance between them (usually 25 - 30 cm). Working with an ice ax. The ice ax is held by the shaft with both hands close to the bayonet. Free swings and strong blows. The head of an ice ax can serve as a measure of the vertical distance between steps. Make 4 horizontal and 3 - 4 vertical strokes and 2-3 spatula - to clear the steps. This is the goal to strive for when practicing this technique. The step should slope inward, towards the slope. Do not hit the same point twice: the beak jams or too large a piece of ice breaks off. Never swing the beak of an ice ax from side to side: it can break. Only up and down.


A typical mistake is to grip the ice ax too close to the head. In this case, there is no impact force and you can get injured by the ice ax bayonet.

Cut 3 - 5 steps in one direction, then a turning one and another 3 - 5 steps and exit to the upper edge of the slope. Rules for moving along ready-made steps. Self-insurance when going up steps is mandatory.

To descend, cut 3 - 5 steps. The direction is not strictly along the line of falling water - this is very inconvenient, but with a deviation of 15-20°; which will make it more convenient to cut steps and go down them. Cut double steps. When walking along them, there is a danger of the teeth of the crampon catching on the bottom of the trouser leg of the second leg. Show interest! Self-belaying with an ice ax. To maintain balance, you can hold on to the top step with your hand.

Rice. 33. Sequence of cutting down a step.

Preparing the place for wrapping the ice screw hook. Clearing loose ice (in some cases you have to cut down up to 20-25 cm of loose “rotten” ice). To make it easier to work with the rope, you have to cut inlet and outlet grooves around the place where the ice screw is wrapped. Rules for cutting out a step or tub, the position of the hook in the tub, the angle of the ice auger in relation to the overall steepness of the slope (for any steepness of the slope, the angle of the ice auger axis in relation to the slope must be within 60°). Do not wrap the ice screw in ice lumps and lumps. In hot weather, cover the head of the hook with a snow cap.

Each participant cut out the tub and wrap the hook at least 3 - 5 times. You need to tighten the ice screw carefully so as not to accidentally press it into a stone (rock) located under the ice. At the slightest resistance, the hook should be unscrewed back and replaced with a shorter one or choose another location. An ice drill with bent teeth cannot be saved - it is not suitable for anything.

Fig.34. Ice screw position diagram. Left row: A - preferred position - in a niche or pocket; B - under influx or icicles; B - position when wrapping the hook into an ice wall (90°). Right row: A

- do not wrap the hook in ice mounds and bumps; B, C - do not use sagging and icicles; G

— incorrect position of the hook.

Organization of insurance on ice. Explain the rules for choosing a place to belay on ice. The position of the belayer away from the leader’s lifting line so that pieces of ice do not fall into him and in case of a fall, the leader does not fall on the belayer. Shoulder belay should only be used in combination with a hook or a large bend in the slope. To ensure the stability of the belayer's position, self-insurance is mandatory.

Moving along a fixed rope (railing). They are practiced on an ice slope with a steepness of no more than 25 - 30° and a length of up to 10 - 15 m. When organizing the handrails, secure with one rope through a hook, and the second through an ice column. Note the features of using previously studied techniques for moving along railings in relation to ice terrain. If possible, organize the railings according to the “P” pattern - ascent - traverse - descent. Top belay with a Bachmann knot; on the traverse there is only a sliding carabiner.


Moving on different ice terrain in teams. This is the final part of the series of lessons. It is carried out in the basin part of the glacier with a variety of accessible relief. Choose the route of movement of the ligaments in such a way that the participants can apply most of the previously learned techniques during movement. Make sure there are no overhanging boulders or deep cracks, unreliable crossings and excessively narrow ridges. The relief should be such that it does not in itself create additional dangers for overcoming it.

The instructor walks in one of the ropes (you can connect to all the ropes in turn with a separate loop of rope), does everything necessary techniques along with the participants and along the way, gives introductory tasks to the participants.

It is better to divide classes on this topic into two parts, since in one day 10 hours (according to plan) of work on the glacier is not only tiring, but also unrealistic for accurately completing the entire program. If possible, it is better to conduct this topic in two days in equal parts or plan time for these activities in advance and conduct them during the next outings on the approaches to the pass, the beginning of the route, on suitable terrain, even during the ascent itself.

When leaving with a squad to move along the glacier, make sure that all members of the squad (and yourself) have a system for self-exit from a crevasse ready before starting the movement.

17.04.2017

Snow and ice terrain requires a set of personal special equipment to pass for movement and equipment for organizing a safety chain.

Ice ax

It is used as a fulcrum when moving on snow and ice, for organizing belay and self-belaying in the snow, for self-arrest when falling on snow and ice terrain. When choosing an ice ax, you need to choose the right length. Take the ice ax in your hand and lower your arms down. The pin of the ice ax should be located in the area of ​​the ankle bone on the leg.

Cats

Crampons are needed for moving on ice and firn slopes. According to the method of fastening, they are divided into cats with soft fastening, semi-rigid and hard fastening. The soft fastening is convenient because such crampons can be put on any shoe, but it is not always reliable enough, although it is suitable for technically simple routes.

Rather, you should opt for a semi-rigid or rigid mount. Important
remember that these types of fastening require special welts on the boots. The front teeth of the cats have different shapes: horizontal plates (universal)
or vertical (they look like the beaks of ice axes; such crampons are designed for overcoming ice walls and ice climbing). Based on the number of teeth, 10, 12, and 14 teeth are distinguished
cats. The most universal are 12 teeth.

Ice drill.

A screw device that allows you to organize a belay point on ice. Ice screws are usually made of steel. In most cases, it is a reliable belay point, withstanding a jerk of up to 12 kN. The most popular ice auger size is about 1618 cm in length.

Minimum set of special personal equipment

Helmet
Alcove
Self-belay + 2 carabiners at the ends
Descender
2 “cordlets” (pieces of 7 mm cord, 5–6 m long)
a piece of 7 mm cord, 1.5–2 m long
3–4 carabiners, at least one of which is of the HMS type (pear-shaped carbine
for the UIAA node)
1–2 loops 60–120 cm long
Ice ax and crampons

It is necessary to move on ice wearing a helmet.
Clothing that protects elbows and knees in case of a fall, as well as from increased ultraviolet radiation on snow and ice terrain. Gloves are required to protect your palms. It is also recommended to wear leggings.
Unprotected areas of the skin must be treated with sunscreen in advance, and the eyes must be protected with glasses.
It is better to put on the harness before putting on the crampons.
The crampons must be tightly “fitted” to the boot, the straps from the crampons must be
tucked in properly, pants fit snugly to the leg below the knees.
Position of the ice ax: the “beak” looks back, the hand holds the ice ax like a cane by the head

It is forbidden to be in crampons on top of each other - it is possible to apply serious injuries V
if the top participant falls.

Movement on ice with a steepness of up to 15 degrees

When traveling on gentle slopes (up to 15 degrees):
move as with normal walking, placing your foot from heel to toe;
keep your legs a little wider than usual, keep your socks apart (so that your crampons don’t catch on your pant leg/gaiters);
The ice ax is held in the hand by the head with the beak back (like a cane).

IMPORTANT: P When moving, it is important to ensure that the cat does not get caught in a pant leg or leggings. This may result in a fall. It is especially dangerous when moving along snow and ice ridges.

When moving not straight up, but at an angle to the slope:

Hold the ice ax in the hand that is higher on the slope (for support);
as the angle of the slope increases, move in a herringbone pattern (toes pointing apart)
or "zigzag";
Place the legs in crampons at full foot so that all the teeth work in a plane

IMPORTANT: Placing the cat on the welt poses a risk of slipping.

Movement on ice with a steepness of 15 to 45 degrees

Movement on ice with a steepness of 15 to 45 degrees straight up the slope is carried out:
“herringbone” - socks are very far apart;
the cat is placed on the entire plane (on all teeth);
the steps are not wide;
The ice ax must be held either like a cane or in front of you with emphasis on it
with both hands.

Front tine lifting technique with one ice ax

While moving in front their teeth:
drive the cat into the ice with a kick (from the knee);
load the heel just below the horizon so that the front 4 teeth work;
use the ice ax as a cane or as a percussion instrument, depending on
steepness of the slope.

With one blow, the ice ax can be used for its entire length, moving your hands along it.

It is possible to combine movement on the front teeth with placing the cat on the entire foot; during this movement, the legs are less loaded and have time to rest in a different position. Typically this technique is used on short vertical sections.

Moving along a slope in a zigzag, saving effort on the climb (French technique)
Procedure:
the body is located sideways to the slope;
hold the ice ax from the side of the slope like a cane;
when moving, overlap of the legs is possible (more or less, depending on the steepness of the slope);
legs are spring-loaded, bent at the knees;
the cat is placed on the entire foot;
The balance of the body on each leg is important.

As the slope steepens:
the toes of the feet turn more down the slope, and movement is carried out slightly with your back to the slope;
the ice ax is taken “at the ready” (the position of the ice ax in which rapid self-cutting is possible in case of slipping);
the bayonet is driven into the slope and works as a hand rest;
the beak of the ice ax is turned away from the person’s body so that in case of a fall it does not cause injury;
The overlap of the legs is insignificant. When crossing the legs, it is important that the supporting leg does not turn onto the crampon welt.

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Anti-ice shoe devices

The approach of snow season is not only joy. At such times, due to periodic thaw and freezing, as well as as a result of wet snow, thick ice forms on the surface of the earth. She knocks everyone off their feet - both physically disabled and healthy people. And there is no escape from it. More precisely, there is, but, unfortunately, not everyone tries to use it. What is this? Ice access shoes and crampons are classic anti-icing devices for shoes.

What are ice drifts?

Accessories that are simple in design and allow you to stay on a large area, avoiding injuries and falls. Known for a very long time - approximately from the 4th century AD.

The first examples were a sandal or leather shoe with a rope wrap. It was positioned in such a way as to form a protector in the toe area. These harnesses were practiced by military climbers until the 40s.

Then urban ice access shoes appeared - with a miniature lining made of elastic rubber, into which spikes made of plastic or metal were built-in. When walking, they crash into the ice a few millimeters, allowing you to avoid falling.

Types of ice access

They differ in several ways: method of fixation, material of manufacture, number of spikes. Moreover, the more points of contact between the shoes and the icy surface, the higher the stability.

So, based on the number of spikes, ice drifts are:

  • multi-spike;
  • for 10 spikes;
  • for 6 spikes;
  • for 5 spikes;
  • for 4 spikes.

There is also a spikeless device for shoes (anti-ice option). It is provided with 4 protrusions and is attached to the heel and toe. Designed for shoes with flat soles.

Models with 6-lug pads maintain fairly high stability. These are compatible with shoes with platforms and heels.

10-spike samples are also fixed to the toe and heel. At the same time, the lugs are dispersed over the entire surface of the sole, so they can only complement flat boots and boots.

According to the method of fastening, ice accesses are:

  • classic;
  • round;
  • on belts.

Based on the material used, anti-icing devices for shoes are divided into:

  • metal (steel and cast iron);
  • leather (from natural and artificial material);
  • silicone (elastomer);
  • rubber (rubber).

Which ice drifts are better?

The best are steel ones. They are not subject to abrasion, fit well into ice and are resistant to stress. At the same time, the type of this metal should be taken into account, since the spikes can be made of hardened or unhardened steel. The first ones are preferable, as they are much more reliable. They are easy to recognize by their black color, which appears naturally at the moment of calcination.

Another significant difference is in length. Protrusions made of unhardened steel are much wider in diameter and have a smaller point, so this anti-ice shoe device clings worse to slippery surfaces.

But on the other hand, rubber samples are much cheaper. Moreover, there are combined models in which rubber is combined with metal spikes. Therefore, the key guideline is the scope of application.

For urban conditions, options with fewer protrusions (up to 6 inclusive) or even spikeless ones with a metal frame are suitable. They are not bulky and lightweight. Equipped with a classic rubber mount. Designed for large the lineup shoes

Samples with 6 or more spikes are suitable for women who prefer to wear high heels. Multi-spike ice accesses are designed for climbers.

Under what conditions are ice drifts used?

It doesn't have to be ice. A device for shoes (anti-ice option) is also used when driving on compacted snow roads, when crossing frozen ponds and slopes.

They also help out when hiking over rough terrain, during the autumn-spring period with sudden thaws and cold snaps, and when moving through areas with abundant inclusions of ice formations - frozen small streams and puddles.

Advantages of ice access

The main advantages they provide:

  • increased frost resistance (up to –40º);
  • affordable price;
  • compactness (easy to remove, hide in a bag and put on when returning home);
  • versatility (designed for a wide size grid);
  • durability (anti-ice shoe device is used for more than one season);
  • aesthetics (invisible and do not spoil appearance shoes);
  • confidence when walking on slippery surfaces;
  • easy to take off and put on (this can be done quickly, in a couple of movements);
  • protection from injury during icy conditions.

Note that ice drifts perfectly relieve injuries to the spine, coccyx, skull, and fractures of the limbs (especially in the area hip joint and hands), as well as from sprains and ruptures of ligaments.

You can buy accessories for shoes in our store at a discount 5 %. To get a discount use the promo code: DISCOUNT2017

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Are you planning to climb Elbrus, or some other five-thousander? Or maybe you’re going to Digoria to climb ice. In any case, you will need cats. Without them, you will not be able to climb vertical ice or firn, but with correctly selected and well-fitted crampons, you will feel confident on any terrain.

Before choosing crampons, decide what you will do in them: walk on glaciers, climb icefalls, walk mixed mountaineering routes, or a little bit of everything? What boots will you use? Hard plastic, or welted leather? Different cats designed for different types of boots, and, as a result, their area of ​​application depends on this. These and other questions are discussed in this article, after reading which you will have no questions left!

Design

There are three types of construction: soft, semi-rigid and rigid. Semi-hard cats are practically no longer produced.

Soft cats are best suited for hiking on snow fields and glaciers. They are called soft because when walking the crampons bend slightly along with the shoe. Soft crampons are suitable for any type of boots - from weltless trekking boots to plastic ones. With a hard boot in these crampons you can even climb vertical ice. If you need crampons more for walking and a little for climbing, then this the best choice. For example, Grivel Air Tech.

Semi-rigid crampons provide better foot support when climbing on ice or rocky areas. The scope of application of these cats is quite wide, and they can be considered a universal option. However, they are heavier soft cats, so if you are going to walk more, it is better to take lighter crampons. Some semi-rigid crampons are designed so that they have a front tooth plate under the toe and a rigid frame extending to the heel. The front part is movably fixed to the back, and if additional bolts are screwed in, the crampons become rigid. This design was used in the Grivel 2F crampons, which are no longer available.

Hard cats are the most technical option. Designed for use on vertical ice and difficult technical routes. The rigid frame ideally distributes the load when climbing on the front teeth, and the crampons themselves vibrate less when impacted, which can be a big advantage when climbing on thin sintered ice. However, walking in such crampons is much less comfortable than in any other ones, since the foot does not bend at all. Hard crampons are best used with hard two-welt boots (preferably plastic), because using them with soft boots can bend the frame. For example, Grivel Rambo 4.

Frame type
Cats come with a horizontal or vertical frame. The platform for the boot is the metal plates on which the sole of the boot is placed. The plates can be parallel or perpendicular to the sole of the boot. The orientation of the plates determines how well these crampons perform on various types snow or ice.

Horizontal(or flat) frame is better for walking as it bends. This frame design also prevents snow from sticking to the sole. The front teeth are also usually made horizontal for better grip on snow and firn. Almost all soft and semi-hard cats are made with a horizontal frame.

Vertical the frame is much stiffer. Therefore, it is used in technical cat models (Grivel Rambo 4, Petzl M10). The rigid platform perfectly distributes the load on the legs and also helps the teeth cut into the ice better. Vertical front teeth penetrate any ice more easily. However, the disadvantage of this design is that snow sticks to them more. Anti-podlips partially save you from this.

Attachment to boot
There are three types of fastenings: without welt, double welt, or single welt

Bezrantovoye. There are special plastic holders on the toe and heel of the cat, which are connected using slings. This is the most universal way of fastening - such crampons can even be worn on sneakers. The downside is that they take a long time to remove. This fastening does not provide rigidity and is typical for walking cats with 10-12 teeth. The Grivel company calls this mount New Classic, at Petzl - FlexLock

Welted. Due to its ease of use and reliability, this is a very popular type of mount. The toe is held in place by a steel brace, and the heel is secured by a “frog” (a plastic retainer attached to a steel brace). Thanks to the staples, the crampons are held securely on the boot and there is virtually no risk of losing well-fitting crampons. This type of fastening is used on soft, semi-hard and hard cats. Grivel calls it Cramp-O-Matic(c-o-m), at Petzl - LeverLock Film.

Single welt— single-welt fastenings are simple and effective. The toe is attached with a plastic holder, and the heel is attached with the same “frog” as in welt fastenings. This type of fastening is very convenient, since it Lately More and more technical leather boots are being made with only a back welt. And with a sufficiently hard boot, single-welt crampons hold up no worse than double-welt crampons. For Grivel it is New Matic, and for Petzl it is LeverLock.

Petzl uses its own double-welt fastening system - SideLock, the difference from the classic double-welt cats is that the “frog” is replaced by a bracket with special system fastenings, which makes the crampons even more compact.

Grivel and Scarpa developed a special option for attaching crampons to boots - GSB, Grivel-Scarpa Binding. The bottom line is that the front brace on cats is replaced with a special protruding plate that is inserted into a hole in the toe of the boot. It turns out that crampons weigh even less and take up even less space, but the problem is that not all boot models have a hole for this type of fastening.

Teeth
Most cats have 12 teeth. 10 for walking and 2 front for climbing. But there are also exceptions. Ten-toothed crampons are good for gentle hikes on glaciers, snow fields, and for ascents where most of the route is covered. Their teeth are shorter and not as sharp as those of regular cats.

Front teeth
Cats usually have two front teeth. On steep terrain they provide a secure hold and a stable foot position. Some models also have small front prongs next to the two regular ones. They make grip on snow and firn more reliable. If most Since you are climbing areas no steeper than 50 degrees, horizontal front teeth are quite suitable for you. Vertical front teeth are justified on steep technical sections.

monotooth(one front tooth) is commonly used for ice climbing. Since a monotooth is always vertical, it is convenient to place it in the holes left by drills and hoes, whereas two teeth simply will not fit there. The monotooth can be placed more accurately and accurately on thin scum ice, which will most likely be crushed by two teeth. Most technical cats can have either one or two front teeth, and some can also adjust the length of the monotooth depending on ice conditions. Worn teeth can always be replaced.

Fit to boots
A very common mistake is to put crampons on a shoe that is not at all intended for this purpose. Soft crampons work well with hiking boots, but most regular boots (like Columbia) are not stiff enough to keep crampons securely in place. n even if you adjust the crampons, the straps will strongly compress the soft leather or nubuck upper of the boot, why legs They will be colder than usual. Of course, if you need to cross a small section of a glacier or snowfield, you can live with this, but for any other purpose you need a special trekking or mountaineering boot. Don't try to put welted crampons on non-welted boots.

When choosing crampons, it is best to bring your own boot. Of course, most modern crampons and boots are made to fit together, but there are still some unfortunate misunderstandings (there was a case where Raveltic crampons decidedly did not fit on Lowa boots)
Crampons with soft fastenings should stay on the boot even when loose.
The “frog” is adjusted with a screw to suit the height of the boot welt. The staples themselves can usually be rearranged, depending on the shape of the boot.
The front teeth should protrude about two to three centimeters from the toe.
The length of soft and semi-rigid crampons is usually adjusted using a special plate, while hard crampons are adjusted by bolts on the frame.

Accessories
Antipodlips– designed to protect against snow accumulation. Usually made of latex or rubber, and connected to the frame with metal brackets. Of course, the anti-stick can be replaced with construction tape, but it will not be as effective. The latest word in this area is active anti-slip pads from Grivel (on all cats of this company), which themselves “shed” the snow.
Spare parts– it’s good when you take spare bolts or teeth with you, because you simply won’t find them in the mountains. All companies offer extended plates for larger boot sizes (usually larger than 47).

Covers and protection for teeth– to protect the backpack and its contents from cats. The protection consists of 12 rubber tips for the teeth, fastened together. Cats can be placed in a special case. Usually covers are made of cordura or other thick fabric. More convenient than tooth protection, but somewhat heavier.

Care
Crampons are very reliable equipment designed for long years trouble-free operation on snow, ice, firn and rocks. Cats tend to become dull, especially when they come into contact with rock, especially granite. The bolts may become slightly loose and the line may become broken. Therefore, it is worth periodically checking the condition of the cats to avoid unpleasant situations in which you cannot find spare parts.
Sharpening
Sharpen the teeth with fine sandpaper or a file (a very useful thing in the mountains). Cats should absolutely not be sharpened with a grinding wheel, as it greatly heats up the metal of the teeth, disrupting its processing and making it weaker. Sharpen the side and front teeth as sharply as possible without disturbing their original shape. Do not overdo it when grinding the metal - after a certain point you will have to change the front teeth or the crampons themselves.
Checking fasteners
Don't forget to check the fastenings. If you use welted crampons, make sure that the welts are not worn down and still hold the staple. Check the plastic fastenings for the slings - they may crack or fray.

Taken from REI.com
Translation – Chapai

Chapai

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