The main diseases of roses and their treatment. Brugmansia care for long flowering

The ant family on a summer cottage is considered an essential link in a single ecosystem. Every child knows these insects with complete transformation. Many of us have experienced painful ant bites. But all the same, the ever-scurrying tireless workers evoke sympathy.

"Versatile" ant

The black ant is a frequent visitor to the garden and home

Hymenoptera in a garden or summer cottage can be treated differently. On the one hand, their food consists of many small garden pests(spider mites, slugs, fly larvae, etc.). An ordinary anthill of black workers in the garden collects about 2 thousand pests per day. On the other hand, there are also unpleasant moments associated with them.

Finding nutrients in the seeds of plants (including weeds), they transfer them to their anthills, spreading them throughout the garden, increasing the germination of the same weeds.
Berries in the garden beds (strawberries, wild strawberries, etc.) suffer from insects. Its presentation deteriorates.

“Taking care” of aphids as the main source of food, ants promote their reproduction, transferring voracious insects that feed on green plants to neighboring crops. Suffice it to say that microscopic aphids in large colonies can completely destroy a crop. The same living food includes psyllids, some caterpillars, and cicadas, which are tended by ants.

But when setting up their anthills, they can choose places that are completely unsuitable for gardeners (in berry bushes), interfering with the growth and development of plants. Flower buds also serve as a treat for insects. For more strong discharge nectar, the ants deliberately nibble off the petals, which leads to the drying out of the inflorescences.

Where there are ants, there are aphids - that's a fact

To lead a peaceful coexistence with insects, to attract them to the summer cottage or, conversely, to try to remove garden ants from the garden - the summer resident himself needs to decide, based on his goals.

Fight strategy

Attention! Solving the problem of how to get rid of ants on garden plot, it should be understood that aphids, a source of food for insects, also need to be destroyed. It is impossible to get rid of one pest without touching another. This explains the difficulties of the struggle. It needs to be carried out in a comprehensive manner: block ants’ access to trees and get rid of anthills using effective drugs.

In the first case, the problem is solved locally, stopping only areas near trees. For this:

“Trapping belts” are placed on tree trunks at a height of 0.5 m. Cardboard or paper is treated with glue to catch insects. Having wrapped the barrel, the belt is secured. You need to start fishing in early March. Belts are replaced in the fall, at the beginning of October. Not only the black garden ant, but also other garden pests are caught in the trap.
You can protect a tree by building a water “ring” - a barrier around the trunk. This can be a tire cut lengthwise down the middle, filled with water, or a ditch dug for this purpose.
Some gardeners use millet against garden ants. By pouring it in places where insects are crowded, you can force them to leave this area.
“Put” a foil bandage on the trunk. Make the bottom edge sharp. For insects it will become an insurmountable barrier.
The fight against ants in the garden is further complicated by the fact that their main “forces” - the fertile queen and sexual specimens - live in a multi-tiered structure underground, without appearing on the surface from above. The only way to hit them is to introduce poison to the queen, young animals and the rest of the “residents” of the dungeon. Based on this principle modern methods struggle. The death of ants does not occur immediately. The poison brought with food infects all new individuals in the nest.
So-called poisoned “baits” are placed along the paths along which ants scurry, near the entrances to the anthill. A pesticide can be a gel, dust, liquid, or granules.

Without using "chemistry"

If you are overcome by ants, you should not immediately resort to radical measures. First, try to use folk remedies.

Wearing protective clothing and shoes, stir up the nest and dig up the ground near it. Then pour in a large volume of boiling water.
In general, you can prevent the formation of anthills by loosening the soil more often, especially near trees. Before doing this, add lime, ash or ash to the soil. The nest will cease to exist only after the destruction of the “queen” and all offspring.
Protect the tree from the invasion of ants by applying a concentrated lime solution to the trunk, as well as to the ground adjacent to it.
Play the game "who will win." Bring large, red ants from the forest, which will displace the black “dacha residents” from their territory.
Various baits are made, the main additive in which is boric acid. The base can be minced meat or fish, sweet mixtures of honey, sugar, and water.
Knowing that insects don't like strong odors, cut and arrange the garlic cloves. Scatter powdered tansy and fresh wormwood branches. Plant mint, lemon balm, and parsnips in the spaces between the rows.
Ordinary soda will also come in handy. There are various options for its use. The easiest way is to pour sodium bicarbonate (3 tablespoons) into cold water(1 liter), mix well and pour into the anthill.
You can poison insects with sodium carbonate and vinegar. To do this, make a crater in the anthill, pour soda into it, and pour vinegar on top. The nest is covered with a layer of soil, under which a violent chemical reaction occurs.
Scattered ground cinnamon also helps against ants in the garden.

Attention! Traditional methods struggle is not a panacea. None of them can guarantee complete deliverance. But targeted application at the right time will help prevent the proliferation of insects and their spread.

If traditional methods are ineffective

In case of mass infestation of beds by insects, chemical preparative forms are used.

An effective remedy for garden ants is Diazinon. Acts by contact-intestinal method. It affects the upper integument and penetrates through food. Death does not occur immediately, but only 24-48 hours after infection.
Muracid has a damaging effect on black garden ants. The toxic liquid substance is used sparingly. Just 3-4 drops are sufficient to dilute in a liter of water, and 1 ampoule (per 10 liters of solution) is enough to completely treat 12-20 anthills.

Specialized chemistry for ants is also represented by other drugs. They must be used in accordance with the instructions, using PPE. The list includes “Thunder”, “Dachnik”, “”, “Trinol”, etc.

In order not to resort to the destruction of the ants themselves by contaminating the soil with chemicals, you must first of all devote all your efforts to destroying the reason that prompted the insects to move to your site - aphids. The fight against it is the main link in the complex of measures to combat ants. Remember that in everything, including in the fight against eternal workers, you need to know when to stop. After all, by destroying anthills, we violate one of the important links ecological system. There are no empty niches in nature. Who knows, maybe by removing ants from your site, you are making room for a more insidious enemy of your gardens and gardens.

Rose diseases are mainly found in the flower beds of inexperienced gardeners who pay little attention to pre-planting soil treatment, selection of seedlings, and also naively think that flowers do not get sick. So that you also know why rose buds dry out and how to cope with the main diseases of these flowers, below we have prepared instructions for their treatment.

Why do roses get sick?

Anyone who loves roses should know their diseases, as well as the causes of their occurrence. Flowers can get sick various reasons, and basically all of them are associated with the carelessness of the gardener:

So when planting roses, it is important to properly prepare the soil and choose flowerbed neighbors, and also not to forget about regular fertilizing and pruning. If you had to deal with rose diseases, we have prepared their description and treatment below.

Did you know? Roses are not only a garden crop; they are also found in the wild, and some of them are capable of showing incredible endurance. For example, there is a variety of these flowers that has successfully taken root even in the Arctic Circle.

Methods to combat infectious burns

An infectious burn appears on rose bushes in the form of reddish spots, which over time can degenerate and completely kill the plant. The reason for the development of this problem in the rose garden is the excessive accumulation of moisture under the cover during winter, excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil and weakening of the shoots due to the presence of wounds. The fungus that causes rose blight can be transmitted from plant to plant through pruning shears.

The most effective way to deal with an infectious burn is to regularly prevent it:

remove leaves and shoots that are affected by infection;
before sheltering for the winter, spray the bushes and the soil around them with a solution of iron sulfate (about 30 g per liter of water);
It is necessary to cover rose bushes only in dry weather with an air temperature no higher than +10°C;
after removing the cover from the bushes, they can also be treated with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%;
when pruning shoots on roses, all tools must be disinfected;
It is important to remove vegetative shoots from affected areas by cutting them out and treating them with garden varnish.

How to remove rust from roses and why it appears

Another disease is rose rust, the causative agent of which is presented in the form of a particularly dangerous fungus. It is capable of spraying its own spores, thereby affecting neighboring plants. You can notice rust on rose bushes in the spring, since this disease causes last year's shoots to crack and pollen to fall out of them. Weak plants that lack nutrients and moisture are most susceptible to this disease. In some cases, weather conditions cause rust.

To prevent rust from appearing on roses and to help flowers get rid of it, it is important to use the following rules:

Try to open rose bushes as early as possible in the spring so that they do not become steamy.
Affected and dead shoots must be cut out and burned.
To maintain the vital activity of the affected plants, they are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, adding 4 g per liter of water.
To avoid introducing the disease into the rose garden through an infected seedling, be sure to dip it in a 1% solution of copper sulfate before planting.
If you cannot get rid of rust on a plant within a year, donate it, otherwise the infection will spread to other inhabitants of the flowerbed.

Also, do not forget that roses love to grow in a sunny place and need rich, fertile soil. The soil under the rose bushes should have good drainage, and the acidity should not go beyond 7.5. Strong bushes will be more resistant to rust.

Important! For good growth Roses require a lot of moisture, but they need to be watered rarely, but very generously.

Powdery mildew: removing powdery plaque from plant leaves and stems

This disease does not manifest itself only if the air humidity does not rise above 60% and the temperature is between 16 and 18°C. In a situation with unstable weather conditions, it is difficult to avoid its occurrence. Often, powdery mildew forms mold on roses, which makes them completely unsightly, since the disease affects the stems, leaves, buds, and even thorns. The longer the plant is sick, the more extensive the plaque spots become. Since powdery mildew often affects young shoots of plants, without taking measures to combat the disease, the rose may not bloom.

To cope with powdery mildew and prevent its reoccurrence, it is necessary to resort to the following measures:

1. Every autumn, cut off all diseased shoots and burn the fallen leaves.

2. Digging a flower bed, in which the raised layer must be turned over, which will lead to the death of pathogens from insufficient air.

3. Spraying roses in the fall with a 3% solution of copper sulfate.

4. Spraying the bushes during the growing season with a copper-soap solution (200-300 laundry or liquid soap per 9 liters of rainwater, into which you need to pour another liter of water, in which 25-30 g of copper sulfate was previously dissolved).

5. Spraying roses with a suspension of colloidal sulfur (1%). This is necessary to stimulate plant growth, as well as increase their “immunity” to the disease.

6. Feed flowers with fertilizers that contain potassium. But under no circumstances should you use nitrogen, as it will only worsen the situation.

7. When powdery mildew on roses progresses particularly strongly, the bushes can be sprayed with a solution of 50 g of soda ash in 10 liters of water.

8. In autumn and spring, the soil around the bushes should be fertilized with ash in a concentration of no more than 120 g per 1 m2. In this case, it needs to be covered a little top layer soil. Diseased bushes can be sprayed with an infusion of ash (to do this, prepare a solution of 100 g of ash and 10 liters of water, which should stand for 5 days), which should be done once every 7 days.

9. An infusion of mullein will also help fight mycelium; about 1 kg of it will be needed per 10 liters of water. Spraying also needs to be done once a week.

It is important to spray the bushes until traces of powdery mildew completely disappear.

Important! It is necessary to hill up roses not with peat, but with ordinary sand. Thanks to this, during the first thaw, the bushes will not begin to grow, but will continue to sleep until real warmth arrives.

Leaf spot and its elimination

You can get rid of spotting only by applying a whole range of measures:

It is important to immediately tear off and burn all affected shoots and leaves;
every autumn the soil is dug up, during which it is important to completely turn the soil layers over to limit the access of air;
using a special preparation for spraying bushes, which should be carried out both in autumn and early spring.

How to deal with gray mold: description of the disease

Gray rot is dangerous because even with almost completely healthy shoots, the affected rose bushes will still not be able to bloom, since the fungus of this disease often affects the buds and upper parts of the shoots. White and pink roses, which receive insufficient nutrition and moisture, are most susceptible to this disease. The mycelium of gray mold is quite resistant to temperature changes, so it calmly survives the winter, and in the spring it continues to reproduce with the help of spores.

This disease is also inherent in strawberry and wild strawberry bushes, and it is not recommended to plant roses near them. To prevent the development of gray rot, rose bushes should be planted in a wide enough space so that each plant is well lit. Watering the roses better in the morning or in the middle of the day, since after evening watering they will not have time to dry out by night.

It is better to pluck and burn all affected plants to destroy the fungus itself. At the first signs of gray rot, you can use a horsetail decoction for spraying, and if the lesions have spread widely throughout the bushes, it is better to resort to a solution of foundationazole in an amount of 0.2% per liter of water.

Bacterial canker on roses

Bacterial rose canker is one of the most common problems gardeners face. This disease can affect not only the stems, but also the roots of the flower, which is why it can rarely be saved.

Root cancer

This type of disease is characterized by the formation of hard growths on the roots of the plant, which begin to rot over time. This leads to drying out of the bush, since the growths prevent moisture from reaching the shoots. The reason for the development of root cancer in rose bushes is damage to their root system during planting, as well as growing flowers on clay soils with high content nitrogen.

If you notice such symptoms on your rose bushes, be sure to trim off all growths and dip the entire root system in a 1% solution of copper sulfate. After this, the roots are washed in water, and the plant can be planted in specially prepared soil.

However, if the roots of the rose are completely affected by cancer, and there are traces of it even on the root collar, it is better to burn the plant immediately.

Rose stem cancer needs immediate treatment, since its causative agent reacts steadily even to severe winter frosts and in the spring it can rage especially intensely. It can take up to 3 years for the plant to completely heal.

When fighting stem cancer in rose bushes, it is important to regularly inspect the flowers and remove any affected areas. Every year, when the buds swell, the affected bushes need to be treated with a solution of zinc sulfate (to do this, dilute 300 g of the substance in a liter of water).

For preventive spraying, you can also use solutions from:

· copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture - 200 g of the substance will be needed for 10 liters of water;

· copper oxychloride (per 10 l – 40 g of substance);

· Topsina-M (per 10 liters of water - 20 g).

A plant weakened by cancer will also require additional feeding. To do this, at the end of summer it is useful to strengthen rose bushes with fertilizers rich in potassium. Before sheltering for the winter, it is important to spray such roses with 2% Bordeaux acid.

Cytosporosis and its treatment

Symptom of this disease is cardinal structural change bark on the shoots of rose bushes. Under the influence of the causative agent of cytosporosis, it first turns brown and then begins to die. Also, over time, many inflamed tubercles appear on the surface of the affected areas, and the bark itself begins to become wet.

Treatment of cytosporosis involves treating the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is important to carry out this treatment even before the bushes bloom. All affected areas of the plant must be pruned and burned in a timely manner.

Did you know? Sometimes small rose buds are not the result of lack of flower care or diseases, but a feature of the variety. Thus, in a variety of roses called “Si”, the size of a blooming bud does not exceed the size of one grain of rice.

Viral wilt

This disease is also quite common. It is characterized by painful development of bushes: shoots and leaves grow strongly, but at the same time have a deformed appearance, the leaves have a thread-like shape. Over time, the shoots and leaves become brown, as a result, buds do not form on the bushes, and by the end of summer such a bush usually dries out.

It is almost impossible to combat viral wilt. It is important to trim and burn all affected shoots in a timely manner, and if the disease has affected the entire bush, it would be correct to dig it up and burn it completely. It is worth understanding that viral wilt can be transmitted from bush to bush through pruning shears, which are important to disinfect when working in the rose garden.

Disease Prevention

Preventive actions To prevent the appearance of diseases on rose bushes, it is important to carry out annually. In particular, treating roses against fungus using Bordeaux mixture should be carried out both in the fall, before protecting the bushes from frost, and in the spring, even before they begin to grow. When planting rose bushes, it is also important to prepare clean, nutritious soil that is free of fungi and other pathogens.

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Good afternoon, dear readers!

Today I invite you to talk about mosquito bites. They annoy us mainly in the summer, but depending on the climate they can be active all year round. Therefore, let's figure out what to do if a mosquito bite occurs, how to relieve the swelling and itching that inevitably arise.

Mosquitoes do not produce any toxins, but anticoagulants—substances that prevent blood clotting—get into the wound. A blister may appear at the site of the bite, and in a child it may even be several centimeters in diameter.

Itching also occurs, and because of it - scratching on the skin. And if an adult can at least try by force of will not to scratch the bitten area, then small child You can't even explain it. Well, why not scratch it if it itches?

By scratching a mosquito-infected area, a person can introduce an infection into the wound. In addition, the more you scratch, the more intense the itching will be due to the local release of histamine. And it’s not far from allergies.

Keep in mind that even severe itching and severe swelling after mosquito bite does not necessarily speak in favor of allergies.

But if the swelling and itching intensify, especially if additional itchy rashes, rhinitis, and difficulty breathing appear, this is almost without a doubt an allergic reaction.

Your actions after the bite

Try not to scratch the bite area.
Cold compresses are good to reduce swelling and itching. You can apply a cloth dampened to the affected area. cold water, or ice wrapped in cloth, in the end, even improvised means. For example, a bottle or jar of water, soda, etc. chilled in the refrigerator. We keep the cold for about 10 minutes, we can repeat the procedure after an hour or when the itching resumes.
If it itches very badly, you can take antihistamine. They are available in pharmacies without a prescription, but it is better to discuss the treatment of the child and the choice of drug for him with a doctor.
For a bite in the eyelid area, an additional anti-inflammatory drug, again an over-the-counter drug, for example, ibuprofen, is recommended.

Be sure to consult a doctor if:

temperature increase;
suppuration;
multiple bites in a small child.

Topical products

They are very diverse, including pharmacy ones and some household products, aromatic substances, plants. It’s up to you to decide what to apply to the affected area.

Do not use products with alcohol on young children!

What did our grandmothers do if they were bitten by a mosquito and needed to reduce the itching and relieve swelling from the affected area? For these purposes they used herbs: plantain leaves, parsley, bird cherry leaves, basil, lemon juice, aloe juice, onion juice.

What if a mosquito bites you in the eye?

I’ll tell you separately what to do if you are bitten in the eye area. Of course, a mosquito bites the eyelid, but the eye often develops very severe swelling, to the point where it is impossible to open the eye for some time.

Rinse the bitten eye with cool water. Be sure to instill Albucid (aka Sulfacyl sodium 20% for children or 30% for adults). We have already talked about oral medications earlier. IN in this case they are required.

Of course, it is better to protect yourself from mosquitoes in advance. But if the attack has already occurred, you now know how to help the person who was bitten.

That's all for today, if you liked the article, recommend it to your friends at in social networks. See you soon.

A car skidding, which often occurs in winter on an icy road, can lead to tragic consequences. What is a skid and what should a driver do in such cases? All this will be written in detail in the article.

Driver's actions when skidding

If you skid in a front-wheel drive car, you need to press the gas pedal. When skidding (which you will have to learn to drive again if the driver was previously driving a rear-wheel drive car), you need to be prepared for anything. In other words, a front-wheel drive car is more responsive to such road conditions, especially on wet or slippery roads. Insignificant and light, but sharp braking can take the car to the side. Although such a car maintains its rear trajectory better, when the front wheels begin to slip, it becomes much more difficult to control such a car. Therefore, when approaching a turn in a front-wheel drive car, it is recommended to slow down in advance and enter it at a large radius.

As for a rear-wheel drive car, if it starts to skid, it is not recommended to press the gas pedal. Thus, you can easily turn the car over or the car will spin around its axis. If it skids, only gradually reducing the fuel supply can help. In other words, the driver should not sharply, but gradually lower the gas pedal, and it is advisable to turn the steering wheel slightly in the direction of the skid.

In addition, if it skids in a situation with sudden acceleration, then in this case it is clear that you need to gradually reduce the fuel supply. If the car is not moving properly, you should lower the brake pedal. All these tips will help, but only a little. It will be possible to reduce the influence of the lateral force, which was described above.

If you skid, you must first release and then press the gas pedal. When driving an all-wheel drive vehicle on a slippery road, the traction vector dominates, but not the steering response. And in this case, under no circumstances should you let go of the gas pedal. If you let off the gas on a four-wheel drive vehicle, the throttle valves will close and the car will begin to slide on all four wheels.

But it can completely eliminate it. The centrifugal force that arises in such situations begins to turn the car in the direction opposite to the lateral sliding of the car's axle. And when the car begins to return to its original position, again with the help of the steering wheel, the driver is obliged to regulate the movement of the wheels so that the car does not roll over. when skidding - the only possibility avoid it.

Thus, experienced drivers can eliminate the situation with one effective technique. They advise that if, after returning the car to its original position, it begins to turn in the opposite direction, again, turn the steering wheel to extinguish the skid. The main thing here, say professionals, is not to fuss and remain calm. This is the only way to avoid capsizing.

In addition, the reasons for skidding may be:

getting under the wheels of stones or frozen pieces of soil;
sharp manipulations on a winding road, especially if the car is tall;
uneven;
uneven distribution of cargo in the trunk or on the roof of the vehicle, which causes loads on one side;
high speed on winding and uneven roads;
braking, especially sharp and uneven;
tire rupture.

The video shows a controlled skid of an all-wheel drive vehicle:

Of course, the reason for such a movement disorder, its essence, can be understood theoretically, but it will not be possible to work out the actions only in the head. Training is needed to ensure that the driver's movements are emergency situations become automatic. Why does your foot instinctively press the gas pedal during a skid? They know very well and have read more than once that this cannot be done! It's all about loss of self-control. So it is here. The driver must be prepared for such a situation and in practice be able to do everything correctly. Experience comes with age, and nothing can replace it. But still.

The first thing a driver must learn is to overcome the fear of skidding. This will help him act more easily during such a situation. He must force himself to return the steering wheel in those tense seconds when the car is spinning. Naturally, at such moments there is no time for management. But life, the most precious thing a person has, depends on it.

We understand skidding theoretically

So. A skid is a movement of a car in which its axles (front or rear) slide. Why does it happen? Getting lost on the road happens for many reasons.

The video shows what to do when skidding a front-wheel drive car:

In most cases, wheels slip rear axle car. changes its orientation while driving and turns on the road. At the same time, the front axle continues to move straight, but the rear wheels dance the Kabardian dance to the side. Due to the fact that the direction of both axes is not the same, rotational motion also occurs. The centrifugal force, which is combined with the lateral forces that caused the skid, strengthens them.

One of the most common reasons for such a violation of the movement of a car is sudden braking. The driver presses the brakes sharply and the wheels lock. At this moment, it is not even necessary to drive on an icy road. Even on dry asphalt, with such braking at high speed, a skid occurs.

Another reason may be uneven and untimely visit ONE HUNDRED. It also happens that wheels with one type of tread are installed on one axle, and wheels with a completely different one on the other. This could also be the reason. Yes, and this is strictly prohibited.

It is also prohibited to make any sudden movements while driving. You should not suddenly turn left or right at speed, especially on a slippery road.

Interestingly, front-wheel drive cars are much less likely to skid on a straight road than other cars. In this case, the steering wheel of the car must be turned at an angle equal to the amount of the skid.

Hard to learn, easy to fight

Video about what to do when skidding a rear-wheel drive car:

In order to improve management skills in emergency situations, it is recommended. It is clear that the venue should be chosen away from crowded places and areas of the road where cars drive. In such places, you can artificially create mini-drifts and level them. You can gradually complicate the tasks, and the so-called controlled skid will be eliminated more effectively. “It’s hard to learn, but it’s easy to fight,” - that’s what he said and taught to live. great commander Suvorov. And in this case, his words go to the root of the problem.

How to artificially provoke a skid

This is not difficult to do, even at a speed of 20 km/h. You just need to brake sharply and just before braking, turn the steering wheel sharply to the side. Exists the whole system techniques that will help artificially provoke a skid. Here is the sequence of actions:

First, we learn to determine the time when the adhesion of the wheels to the road surface decreases. In this case, traction is reduced to such an extent that the wheels are on the verge of slipping. What does this skill provide? It will allow you to feel the edge when you need to slow down or take your foot off, and thus avoid skidding.
We learn to instantly react to a skid or, in other words, to extinguish it. This is a skill that comes after a few practices and becomes automatic over time - skidding/steering.
We learn to determine the moment when turning the steering wheel causes a response - we extinguish the skid.
We learn, without waiting for the end of the skid, to turn the steering wheel in reverse side. This reflex requires many repetitions to become automatic.
We learn to coordinate the speed of rotation of the steering wheel with the nature of the skid damping. Actions when skidding a car thus become fully automated.

By practicing this way, you can actually learn to act calmly in extreme situations. And I must learn this, since such situations on the roads, especially Russian ones, are not uncommon. Thus, skidding of the rear axle of a rear-wheel drive car is most often caused by poor quality roads.

The video talks about controlled skidding:

If the driver does not train to combat skidding, then at critical moments he will not be able to control the car, even if he is completely confident in himself. Often, in extreme situations, even the most courageous and “risky” drivers got lost and let go of the steering wheel. Some people continue to press the brake pedal in such moments in the hope that it will help. And the most dangerous thing at such a moment is the psychological stupor that an inexperienced driver finds himself in.

To prevent all this from happening, use the tips given above. And remember - while driving you are responsible not only for your life!